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stu
 
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Default Dishwasher electrical conundrum

Colston 700S countertop dishwasher, made in Sweden c. 15 years old,
sticking on rinse cycle. I dismantled the programmer and cleaned
the contacts and re-assembled. Now it's not turning off the second
solenoid tap which fills for the main wash cycle, so it floods. The
diaphragm water-level sensing switch works ok for the first solenoid
tap on the pre-wash, so its not that. The programmer is a series of cam
operated rocker switches. The first rocks one way to fill for the
pre-wash and the other way for the main wash. All connections are
making ok. Any idea what could be going wrong?
Stu.

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Paul
 
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"stu" wrote in message news:VA.00000020.003a5692@one...
Colston 700S countertop dishwasher, made in Sweden c. 15 years old,
sticking on rinse cycle. I dismantled the programmer and cleaned
the contacts and re-assembled. Now it's not turning off the second
solenoid tap which fills for the main wash cycle, so it floods. The
diaphragm water-level sensing switch works ok for the first solenoid
tap on the pre-wash, so its not that. The programmer is a series of cam
operated rocker switches. The first rocks one way to fill for the
pre-wash and the other way for the main wash. All connections are
making ok. Any idea what could be going wrong?
Stu.


had a problem similar to this with my dishwasher...... different make and
model though

turned out it was the main pump that had broke, the impellor was broken from
the motor shaft
and it still pumped water because the impellor would turn a small ammount
but not strong enough.
The dishwasher has a 'dirt' sensor and just kept sticking on the wash cycle
because it never registered as being clean. I know this is not like your
problem but I went through a similar fault finding excersise and didn't
check the pump because the symptoms led me to check other things.

Sorry I couldn't help more
Paul


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BigWallop
 
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"stu" wrote in message news:VA.00000020.003a5692@one...
Colston 700S countertop dishwasher, made in Sweden c. 15 years old,
sticking on rinse cycle. I dismantled the programmer and cleaned
the contacts and re-assembled. Now it's not turning off the second
solenoid tap which fills for the main wash cycle, so it floods. The
diaphragm water-level sensing switch works ok for the first solenoid
tap on the pre-wash, so its not that. The programmer is a series of cam
operated rocker switches. The first rocks one way to fill for the
pre-wash and the other way for the main wash. All connections are
making ok. Any idea what could be going wrong?
Stu.


The wiring sounds wrong somewhere. The water level sensor has two switches
inside which will turn on / off at the set water level. The first, shallow,
level is working OK, but the second, deeper, level isn't working.

Check that the diaphragm switch isn't faulty first by blowing up the tube
from the bottom. Blowing gently should activate the first switch. Blowing
a bit harder should activate the second switch. You should hear them both
operate as you blow.

Check the switch on the timer unit to make sure it's working OK. Putting a
meter or a lamp over the switch and operating it will tell you if it is
fine.

Check your rewire. Make sure you have the water level diaphragm switches on
the correct parts of the timer unit.


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stu
 
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In article , BigWallop
wrote:
It sounds as though you have the three wires to the water level switch in
the wrong places then.


Don't think so, I was careful to mark them and replace as found. The common
is permanently connected to the neutral side. One disconnects this from the
misbehaving solenoid tap when the fill level is reached and in the same
action the other connects to the emptying pump via some sort of resistor
thingy that looks like a watch battery. But it continues to fill. :-(

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BigWallop
 
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"stu" wrote in message news:VA.00000024.004da3c2@one...
In article , BigWallop
wrote:
It sounds as though you have the three wires to the water level switch

in
the wrong places then.


Don't think so, I was careful to mark them and replace as found. The

common
is permanently connected to the neutral side. One disconnects this from

the
misbehaving solenoid tap when the fill level is reached and in the same
action the other connects to the emptying pump via some sort of resistor
thingy that looks like a watch battery. But it continues to fill. :-(


Have a chat with the guys at http://www.ukwhitegoods.com/ to see if they can
get you through this conundrum, Stu. I don't have the proper diagrams for
these machines any more, but the guys at UK Whitegoods should keep them all
at hand.


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