Hi again all,

we've bought a wendy-house (see separate thread).

I'm considering installing an electrict greenhouse heater (120w or
similar) - both to take the bite out of the cold when the children are
playing in it during the Winter, but also under the (possibly mistaken) idea
that having it on for a couple of hours per day would prolong the life of
the house.

The Wendy-house builder chap warned against use of such a heater, but I
wasn't convinced.... He said that wood likes to be damp, and the drying
effect of the heater would reduce the wendy-house life. If the slow-steady
heat is destructive I'd be happy enough to (safely) fit a convector heater
for the period when the children are actually in there. I just want to
double-check the builder's statement.

So, I'd appreciate any advice on heating my lovely new erection ;-]

Cheers,

Ian.

He said that wood likes to be damp,

What a classic quote!

The reason not to heat the wendy house is because it would cost a fortune to
run, unless you insulated it. 50mm of celotex all round inside should do.
When the kids are inside, it will barely need heating, as the body heat will
do most of the work.

Christian.

"ian mayo" wrote in message
...
Hi again all,

we've bought a wendy-house (see separate thread).

I'm considering installing an electrict greenhouse heater (120w or
similar) - both to take the bite out of the cold when the children are
playing in it during the Winter, but also under the (possibly mistaken)
idea
that having it on for a couple of hours per day would prolong the life of
the house.

The Wendy-house builder chap warned against use of such a heater, but I
wasn't convinced.... He said that wood likes to be damp, and the drying
effect of the heater would reduce the wendy-house life. If the
slow-steady
heat is destructive I'd be happy enough to (safely) fit a convector heater
for the period when the children are actually in there. I just want to
double-check the builder's statement.

So, I'd appreciate any advice on heating my lovely new erection ;-]

Cheers,

Ian.

Insulate the inside first. Use Kingspan or Celotex which is high performing
and thin, put Fermacell boards over that with a vapour barrier beneath the
Fermacell. No wet trades involved and a great finish and cheap to heat.
Sorted.

IMM wrote:

"ian mayo" wrote in message
...
Hi again all,

we've bought a wendy-house (see separate thread).

I'm considering installing an electrict greenhouse heater (120w or
similar) - both to take the bite out of the cold when the children are
playing in it during the Winter, but also under the (possibly mistaken)
idea
that having it on for a couple of hours per day would prolong the life of
the house.

The Wendy-house builder chap warned against use of such a heater, but I
wasn't convinced.... He said that wood likes to be damp, and the drying
effect of the heater would reduce the wendy-house life. If the
slow-steady
heat is destructive I'd be happy enough to (safely) fit a convector heater
for the period when the children are actually in there. I just want to
double-check the builder's statement.

So, I'd appreciate any advice on heating my lovely new erection ;-]

Cheers,

Insulate the inside first. Use Kingspan or Celotex which is high performing
and thin, put Fermacell boards over that with a vapour barrier beneath the
Fermacell. No wet trades involved and a great finish and cheap to heat.

Whack in a couple of combis too, and you're done.

In article ,
IMM wrote:
Insulate the inside first. Use Kingspan or Celotex which is high
performing and thin, put Fermacell boards over that with a vapour
barrier beneath the Fermacell. No wet trades involved and a great
finish and cheap to heat. Sorted.

He's back. And still not understanding a simple question. Unless he knows
a plasterer called Wendy.

--
*Income tax service - We‘ve got what it takes to take what you've got.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net...
He said that wood likes to be damp,

What a classic quote!

The reason not to heat the wendy house is because it would cost a fortune
to
run, unless you insulated it. 50mm of celotex all round inside should do.

That's more than most houses :-)

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
IMM wrote:
..

Whack in a couple of combis too, and you're done.

I hate posts which say LOL.

But LOL!

Mary

On Tue, 7 Dec 2004 15:42:55 -0000, "ian mayo"
wrote:

Hi again all,

we've bought a wendy-house (see separate thread).

I'm considering installing an electrict greenhouse heater (120w or
similar) - both to take the bite out of the cold when the children are
playing in it during the Winter, but also under the (possibly mistaken) idea
that having it on for a couple of hours per day would prolong the life of
the house.

In a single layer wooden building, a 120W heater is not going to do a
great deal to make it warm.

If you use a good preservative on the outside and maintain it (see
other post) and the wood is isolated from the ground and ventilated,
then it won't come to much harm.


The Wendy-house builder chap warned against use of such a heater, but I
wasn't convinced.... He said that wood likes to be damp, and the drying
effect of the heater would reduce the wendy-house life.

Not really. If the wood had been damp before machining and assembly
and the building poorly made, then suddenly heating and drying it
could lead to shrinkage and cracking, but that should not have been
the case.



If the slow-steady
heat is destructive I'd be happy enough to (safely) fit a convector heater
for the period when the children are actually in there. I just want to
double-check the builder's statement.

So, I'd appreciate any advice on heating my lovely new erection ;-]

Christian's insulation idea could make a lot of sense. I did
exactly this with my garden cabin and used 50mm Celotex to do it. I
also did the space under the floor, which is probably not an option
for you now. The walls and roof were done by fitting a light frame
inside and leaving a small gap behind the Celotex which was then
ventilated (important). Before fitting this, I painted the interior
with a colourless wood preserver (Cuprinol).
The Celotex has its own foil vapour barrier and joints can be taped
using foil tape, so no additional vapour barrier is required. I
finished the surface with wooden cladding, varnished with a water
based matt varnish. Other board such as ply or even plasterboard
would be fine. With kids you might want it ding proof.
I secondary glazed the windows and door with toughened glass.

The building is used for a variety of purposes and also houses a
freezer, being a low energy one.

It is comfortably warm most of the time, if I go in there and close
the door, I haven't needed any additional heating



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Mary Fisher" wrote in message
et...

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
IMM wrote:
.

Whack in a couple of combis too, and you're done.

I hate posts which say LOL.

But LOL!

Mary,

You LOL'd at that? Are you serious?

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
IMM wrote:
Insulate the inside first. Use Kingspan or Celotex which is high
performing and thin, put Fermacell boards over that with a vapour
barrier beneath the Fermacell. No wet trades involved and a great
finish and cheap to heat. Sorted.

He's back. And still not understanding a simple question. Unless he knows
a plasterer called Wendy.

Was that supposed to be funny? Please before you do funnies, tell us before
you do them. ..........Then we can delete it, without the pain.

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
IMM wrote:

"ian mayo" wrote in message
...
Hi again all,

we've bought a wendy-house (see separate thread).

I'm considering installing an electrict greenhouse heater (120w or
similar) - both to take the bite out of the cold when the children are
playing in it during the Winter, but also under the (possibly mistaken)
idea
that having it on for a couple of hours per day would prolong the life
of
the house.

The Wendy-house builder chap warned against use of such a heater, but I
wasn't convinced.... He said that wood likes to be damp, and the
drying
effect of the heater would reduce the wendy-house life. If the
slow-steady
heat is destructive I'd be happy enough to (safely) fit a convector
heater
for the period when the children are actually in there. I just want to
double-check the builder's statement.

So, I'd appreciate any advice on heating my lovely new erection ;-]

Cheers,

Insulate the inside first. Use Kingspan or Celotex which is high
performing
and thin, put Fermacell boards over that with a vapour barrier beneath
the
Fermacell. No wet trades involved and a great finish and cheap to heat.

Whack in a couple of combis too, and you're done.

Perfect.

120w wont achieve anything in any building.

If youre going to go with electric, and just happen to have a big stack
of old fridges and freezers, building them into one wall would pump
external heat in as well as getting the heat from the leccy.

NT

120w wont achieve anything in any building.

If youre going to go with electric, and just happen to have a big stack
of old fridges and freezers, building them into one wall would pump
external heat in as well as getting the heat from the leccy.

NT

120w wont achieve anything in any building.

If youre going to go with electric, and just happen to have a big stack
of old fridges and freezers, building them into one wall would pump
external heat in as well as getting the heat from the leccy.

NT

"IMM" wrote in message
...

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
IMM wrote:

"ian mayo" wrote in message
...
Hi again all,

we've bought a wendy-house (see separate thread).

I'm considering installing an electrict greenhouse heater (120w or
similar) - both to take the bite out of the cold when the children
are
playing in it during the Winter, but also under the (possibly
mistaken)
idea
that having it on for a couple of hours per day would prolong the
life
of
the house.

The Wendy-house builder chap warned against use of such a heater, but
I
wasn't convinced.... He said that wood likes to be damp, and the
drying
effect of the heater would reduce the wendy-house life. If the
slow-steady
heat is destructive I'd be happy enough to (safely) fit a convector
heater
for the period when the children are actually in there. I just want
to
double-check the builder's statement.

So, I'd appreciate any advice on heating my lovely new erection ;-]

Cheers,

Insulate the inside first. Use Kingspan or Celotex which is high
performing
and thin, put Fermacell boards over that with a vapour barrier beneath
the
Fermacell. No wet trades involved and a great finish and cheap to
heat.

Whack in a couple of combis too, and you're done.

Perfect.

Have to see the look on the BCO's face when he comes out to check them :-)

Not really. If the wood had been damp before machining and assembly
and the building poorly made, then suddenly heating and drying it
could lead to shrinkage and cracking, but that should not have been
the case.

I`m no expert on any of this, but how many years of use are kids going to
get out of a wendy house anyway ?

--
Please add "[newsgroup]" in the subject of any personal replies via email
--- My new email address has "ngspamtrap" & @btinternet.com in it ;-) ---

On Tue, 7 Dec 2004 22:29:11 -0000, Colin Wilson
wrote:

Not really. If the wood had been damp before machining and assembly
and the building poorly made, then suddenly heating and drying it
could lead to shrinkage and cracking, but that should not have been
the case.

I`m no expert on any of this, but how many years of use are kids going to
get out of a wendy house anyway ?


It depends what it is. If it's a small thing possibly not, but
there are some fairly large constructions sold as wendy houses that
can be used for other purposes afterwards.



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

120w wont achieve anything in any building.

If youre going to go with electric, and just happen to have a big stack
of old fridges and freezers, building them into one wall would pump
external heat in as well as getting the heat from the leccy.

NT

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 7 Dec 2004 22:29:11 -0000, Colin Wilson
wrote:

Not really. If the wood had been damp before machining and assembly
and the building poorly made, then suddenly heating and drying it
could lead to shrinkage and cracking, but that should not have been
the case.

I`m no expert on any of this, but how many years of use are kids going to
get out of a wendy house anyway ?


It depends what it is. If it's a small thing possibly not, but
there are some fairly large constructions sold as wendy houses that
can be used for other purposes afterwards.


Have you seen the Beckham's one ? Subject to retrospective planning
permission, they'll be letting it out when the kids have finished with it.

"Andy Hall" wrote
| I`m no expert on any of this, but how many years of use are kids
| going to get out of a wendy house anyway ?
| It depends what it is. If it's a small thing possibly not, but
| there are some fairly large constructions sold as wendy houses that
| can be used for other purposes afterwards.

Never too soon to start the weans on the housing ladder. The way prices are
going, it'll be all they can afford for their first-time buy.

Owain

On Tue, 7 Dec 2004 23:20:57 -0000, "Mike" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 7 Dec 2004 22:29:11 -0000, Colin Wilson
wrote:

Not really. If the wood had been damp before machining and assembly
and the building poorly made, then suddenly heating and drying it
could lead to shrinkage and cracking, but that should not have been
the case.

I`m no expert on any of this, but how many years of use are kids going to
get out of a wendy house anyway ?


It depends what it is. If it's a small thing possibly not, but
there are some fairly large constructions sold as wendy houses that
can be used for other purposes afterwards.


Have you seen the Beckham's one ? Subject to retrospective planning
permission, they'll be letting it out when the kids have finished with it.



There you go then. :-)



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

On Tue, 7 Dec 2004 23:20:57 UTC, "Mike" wrote:

It depends what it is. If it's a small thing possibly not, but
there are some fairly large constructions sold as wendy houses that
can be used for other purposes afterwards.

Have you seen the Beckham's one ? Subject to retrospective planning
permission, they'll be letting it out when the kids have finished with it.

Somebody said it wasn't the most marvellous Christmas present, but it's
the fort that counts...

--
Bob Eager
begin a new life...dump Windows!

In message , Andy Hall
writes
On Tue, 7 Dec 2004 22:29:11 -0000, Colin Wilson
wrote:

Not really. If the wood had been damp before machining and assembly
and the building poorly made, then suddenly heating and drying it
could lead to shrinkage and cracking, but that should not have been
the case.

I`m no expert on any of this, but how many years of use are kids going to
get out of a wendy house anyway ?


It depends what it is. If it's a small thing possibly not, but
there are some fairly large constructions sold as wendy houses that
can be used for other purposes afterwards.

What the OP needs is a Wendy wood burning stove

--
geoff

wrote:

120w wont achieve anything in any building.

If youre going to go with electric, and just happen to have a big stack
of old fridges and freezers, building them into one wall would pump
external heat in as well as getting the heat from the leccy.

NT

rubbish. 120W will achieve somethg in any building.

Its how much that is the issue.

Most of the year this house is heated entirely by 600W of Aga, and by
about a kilowatt of waste electrical and human heat.

insulate the wndy house, and the kids alone will be enough at about 100W
each...

"raden" wrote
| What the OP needs is a Wendy wood burning stove

I can see the headlines now: Children burnt in Wendy wood burning stove
tragedy. Building Regs to be extended. "We must never let this happen
again," said a Labour MP.

Owain

In article ,
Owain wrote:
I can see the headlines now: Children burnt in Wendy wood burning stove
tragedy. Building Regs to be extended. "We must never let this happen
again," said a Labour MP.

Would this mean you'd need to employ a Corgi with a Wendy?

--
*Am I ambivalent? Well, yes and no.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote
| I can see the headlines now: Children burnt in Wendy wood burning
| stove tragedy. Building Regs to be extended. "We must never let
| this happen again," said a Labour MP.
| Would this mean you'd need to employ a Corgi with a Wendy?

Corgis tend to snap at children and leave little messes around the place. I
don't think Wendy would approve. :-)

For somewhere with weans, you'd be better off with a 'lectric
ambient/background rad(iat)or. They're much more child-friendly.

Owain

"Owain" wrote in message
...
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote
| I can see the headlines now: Children burnt in Wendy wood burning
| stove tragedy. Building Regs to be extended. "We must never let
| this happen again," said a Labour MP.
| Would this mean you'd need to employ a Corgi with a Wendy?

Corgis tend to snap at children and leave little messes around the place.
I
don't think Wendy would approve. :-)

For somewhere with weans, you'd be better off with a 'lectric
ambient/background rad(iat)or. They're much more child-friendly.


With 50mm of Celotex, I'd consider an air conditioner to provide heat or
cooling for summer use :-)

In message , ian mayo
writes

I`m no expert on any of this, but how many years of use are kids going to
get out of a wendy house anyway ?

Picture attached.. I've a 3 yr old & a 2 yr old. Hopefully we'll get 10
years out of it.

Binaries are not allowed in this NG.

Please e.g. put it on a website and post the link in future

--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...

Binaries are not allowed in this NG.

Please e.g. put it on a website and post the link in future
geoff

Thanks for that Geoff.

Here's the beauty:

http://www.debrief.info/trial/house.jpg

Still open to more opinions....

"Ian Mayo" wrote in message
...

http://www.debrief.info/trial/house.jpg

Still open to more opinions....

How about double glazing ? ;-)

On Wed, 8 Dec 2004 18:35:45 -0000, "Owain"
wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote
| I can see the headlines now: Children burnt in Wendy wood burning
| stove tragedy. Building Regs to be extended. "We must never let
| this happen again," said a Labour MP.
| Would this mean you'd need to employ a Corgi with a Wendy?

Corgis tend to snap at children and leave little messes around the place. I
don't think Wendy would approve. :-)

For somewhere with weans, you'd be better off with a 'lectric
ambient/background rad(iat)or. They're much more child-friendly.

Owain

I thought it was bairns where you are - as from the Celtic word,
'barn' (for wean).



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Ian Mayo" wrote in message
...
"raden" wrote in message
...

Binaries are not allowed in this NG.

Please e.g. put it on a website and post the link in future
geoff

Thanks for that Geoff.

Here's the beauty:

http://www.debrief.info/trial/house.jpg

Still open to more opinions....

A loo ?

If you're in/near London, put it out to rent.

In article ,
Coherers wrote:
Still open to more opinions....

How about double glazing ? ;-)

And twin combis. A win win win situation.

--
*When the chips are down, the buffalo is empty.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
And twin combis. A win win win situation.

LOL. :-)

"Andy Hall" wrote
| For somewhere with weans,
| I thought it was bairns where you are - as from the Celtic word,
| 'barn' (for wean).

Encarta has: [Old English bearn. Ultimately from an Indo-European word
meaning "to carry, bear children," which is also the ancestor of English
bear, bring, suffer, and metaphor.]

Etymonline adds: beran ("bear (v.), carry, give birth")

Weans in west of Scotland, bairns in the east, and loons and quines in the
Doric.

Owain

On Thu, 9 Dec 2004 00:42:23 -0000, "Owain"
wrote:

"Andy Hall" wrote
| For somewhere with weans,
| I thought it was bairns where you are - as from the Celtic word,
| 'barn' (for wean).

Encarta has: [Old English bearn. Ultimately from an Indo-European word
meaning "to carry, bear children," which is also the ancestor of English
bear, bring, suffer, and metaphor.]

Etymonline adds: beran ("bear (v.), carry, give birth")

Weans in west of Scotland, bairns in the east, and loons and quines in the
Doric.

Owain


Well... AIUI, the Geordies call them bairns as well.

Interestingly, the Swedish and Norwegian (and possibly Danish) word
for child is 'barn'.



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

wrote:
120w wont achieve anything in any building.

If youre going to go with electric, and just happen to have a big stack
of old fridges and freezers, building them into one wall would pump
external heat in as well as getting the heat from the leccy.

It's a Wendy House.
I'm bored.

Let's say said wendy house is 2m*1m*1.5m.
So, walls 9m^2, roof 3m^2 (pitched), floor 2m^2.

Starting with the floor, we have a perimeter of 6m, and an area of 2m^2.
Call it a U value of 2. (extrapolating off the end of a table.)

Walls.
I'll assume it's not got plasterboard/celotex/..., but is 1/2" timber.
Inside and outside R values total .17, and the timber is about .1, for
a total R value of .27, or a U value of about 4.

Roof.
Inside/outside Rs = .14, wood = .1, total = .24, or again about 4.

So, total roof+walls area is 12m^2, U value of 4, I make that 48W/K.
And the floor will take 2W/K, totalling up to a nice round 50W/K.
Or 2.4K above the outside temp.
While not exactly toasty, this is certainly usually noticable, and will
be significant in terms of keeping things dry.

Taking the shed to an average U value of 1 (120W would heat it by 11C)
would need about 4cm of polystyrene/...

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
wrote:

It's a Wendy House.
I'm bored.

Let's say said wendy house is 2m*1m*1.5m.
So, walls 9m^2, roof 3m^2 (pitched), floor 2m^2.

Starting with the floor, we have a perimeter of 6m, and an area of 2m^2.
Call it a U value of 2. (extrapolating off the end of a table.)

Walls.
I'll assume it's not got plasterboard/celotex/..., but is 1/2" timber.
Inside and outside R values total .17, and the timber is about .1, for
a total R value of .27, or a U value of about 4.

Roof.
Inside/outside Rs = .14, wood = .1, total = .24, or again about 4.

So, total roof+walls area is 12m^2, U value of 4, I make that 48W/K.
And the floor will take 2W/K, totalling up to a nice round 50W/K.
Or 2.4K above the outside temp.
While not exactly toasty, this is certainly usually noticable, and will
be significant in terms of keeping things dry.

Taking the shed to an average U value of 1 (120W would heat it by 11C)
would need about 4cm of polystyrene/...


Your forgot the windows ;-)

What is the U-value of a hole?

In article ,
Owain wrote:
and loons and quines in the
Doric.

Often with a 'y' or 'ie' added. Which really confuses non locals. 'Yon
loonie' just refers to a lad...

--
*Could it be that "I do " is the longest sentence? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.