the thermostat "under my heater" for the boiler has setings Lo/1-4/Hi.
After the last annual service i note that i has been set to hi whereas
as it used to be 2-3.

I have thermostatic valves on most radiators but i find that if the
central heating is on for a while [ie allnight during the recent cold
snap] and all the house is hot, even if the temp is higher than the
room-thermostat-temp the boiler is still "on".

the hot water is also very hot so i dont see why that would cause the
need for conitnued curning.
i turned the boiler thermostat down to 2 and it stopped immediately and
since then the house is as hot as it was before and the water is as hot
as before so what does this boiler-thermostat setting affect? can i not
just turn it down to 1 or low?[apologies for the wordy post but i
couldnt explain my confusion succinctly]

"riz1" wrote in message
ups.com...
the thermostat "under my heater" for the boiler has setings Lo/1-4/Hi.
After the last annual service i note that i has been set to hi whereas
as it used to be 2-3.

I have thermostatic valves on most radiators but i find that if the
central heating is on for a while [ie allnight during the recent cold
snap] and all the house is hot, even if the temp is higher than the
room-thermostat-temp the boiler is still "on".

the hot water is also very hot so i dont see why that would cause the
need for conitnued curning.
i turned the boiler thermostat down to 2 and it stopped immediately and
since then the house is as hot as it was before and the water is as hot
as before so what does this boiler-thermostat setting affect? can i not
just turn it down to 1 or low?[apologies for the wordy post but i
couldnt explain my confusion succinctly]


Are you sure the boiler control is a thermostat? Mine goes from min - max,
but there's no thermostat - if the weather gets colder, we turn it up. If
the weather gets warmer and we leave it turned up, the house gets too hot.
AIUI thermostats to control the boiler are normally aray from it and other
sources of heat, usually on a wall in the living room or similar.

the operating instructions on the back of the removable front plate on
the heater [it is a back boiler] refer to it as a thermostatic knob.
I do have a separate room thermostat in the hallways as well as the
radiator TRVs; the hot water cylinder is in the loft and i dont know if
it has a separate thermostat.

having the heating on so much is resulting in really hot water in the
morning [maybe this is just subjective, however].

since i am finding the house is getting hot enough, from what has been
said here am i safe to assume that i can turn the "thermostatic knob"
for the boiler down to 1-2 to provide "background warm" over a longer
period?

as i said, at time even when the hot water from the taps is very hot
and the rooms are all hot [or if i turn the wall thermostat down to
simulate this] sometimes the boiler is still firing away....

the operating instructions on the back of the removable front plate on
the heater [it is a back boiler] refer to it as a thermostatic knob.
I do have a separate room thermostat in the hallways as well as the
radiator TRVs; the hot water cylinder is in the loft and i dont know if
it has a separate thermostat.

having the heating on so much is resulting in really hot water in the
morning [maybe this is just subjective, however].

since i am finding the house is getting hot enough, from what has been
said here am i safe to assume that i can turn the "thermostatic knob"
for the boiler down to 1-2 to provide "background warm" over a longer
period?

as i said, at time even when the hot water from the taps is very hot
and the rooms are all hot [or if i turn the wall thermostat down to
simulate this] sometimes the boiler is still firing away....

sounds like your system needs sorting out. Boiler should never run when
both space heating and HW thermostats are satisfied.

Lot of bodge jobs without the necessary stats are getting installed
unfortunately.

NT

sounds like your system needs sorting out. Boiler should never run when
both space heating stat and HW are satisfied.

Lot of bodge jobs without the necessary stats are getting installed
unfortunately.

NT

sounds like your system needs sorting out. Boiler should never run when
both space heating stat and HW are satisfied.

Lot of bodge jobs without the necessary stats are getting installed
unfortunately.

NT

sounds like your system needs sorting out. Boiler should never run when
both space heating stat and HW are satisfied.

Lot of bodge jobs without the necessary stats are getting installed
unfortunately. Do you have a separate room themostat?

NT

sounds like your system needs sorting out. Boiler should never run when
both space heating stat and HW are satisfied.

Lot of bodge jobs without the necessary stats are getting installed
unfortunately. Do you have a separate room themostat?

NT

On 6 Dec 2004 12:38:49 -0800, strung together this:

snip yet anther post

Any chance you could stop posting in various multiples every time?
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
wrote:

sounds like your system needs sorting out. Boiler should never run
when both space heating stat and HW are satisfied.

Lot of bodge jobs without the necessary stats are getting installed
unfortunately. Do you have a separate room themostat?

NT

Sounds like your 'send' key needs sorting out, too!
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
riz1 wrote:

the operating instructions on the back of the removable front plate on
the heater [it is a back boiler] refer to it as a thermostatic knob.
I do have a separate room thermostat in the hallways as well as the
radiator TRVs; the hot water cylinder is in the loft and i dont know
if it has a separate thermostat.

having the heating on so much is resulting in really hot water in the
morning [maybe this is just subjective, however].

since i am finding the house is getting hot enough, from what has been
said here am i safe to assume that i can turn the "thermostatic knob"
for the boiler down to 1-2 to provide "background warm" over a longer
period?

as i said, at time even when the hot water from the taps is very hot
and the rooms are all hot [or if i turn the wall thermostat down to
simulate this] sometimes the boiler is still firing away....

It is distinctly possible that you've got a gravity hot water system and
pumped central heating system. Have you got 4 pipes connected to the
boiler - 2 on one side going to the hot water tank in the airing cupboard,
and 2 on the other side going to the radiators? [This is quite common with
back boiler systems such as the Baxi Bermuda].

The problem with this sort of system is that the room stat only turns the
pump on and off, and the boiler runs whenever heating is turned on at the
programmer - and the hot water goes on getting hotter.

If you want to exercise some control over it, and save a lot of energy,
you'll need to add some additional components. The best solution is to go
fully pumped and use a couple of zone valves to convert it to an S-Plan.
[See http://content.honeywell.com/uk/homes/systems.htm]

A simpler alternative which is not quite so good, but a whole lot better
than what you currently have is to put a zone valve and cylinder stat in the
HW circuit, and convert it to a C-Plan. This provides the necessary boiler
interlock to ensure that the boiler only fires when either or both stats are
calling for heat. But the HW circulation is still gravity, so HW recovery
will be slower than if it were pumped.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

cheers set square you have hit lots of nails on heads.
i do indeed have a baxi bermuda backboiler system. the hot water
cylinder is in the loft with the cold water tank in a gravity system
[hence i am having a shower pump fitted].

disappointed to note what you say [in the energy efficiency sense, not
in your reply!] as i have just forked out of TRVs etc to aid
efficiency/bills reduction and now it seems it wont happen unless i get
my HW circuit overhalled.

i have just bought a Stuart Turner Showermate Pump which isnt suitable
for a whole pumped system but within these limits then what can i get
the plumber to do with the hot watr circuit at the same time as he is
putting the pump in to make it more energy efficient? is it to put this
zone valve malarky in the HW circuit? if so is it complicated to do -
the guy is a builder by trade but certainly not a fully-fledged
plumber.....

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
riz1 wrote:

cheers set square you have hit lots of nails on heads.
i do indeed have a baxi bermuda backboiler system. the hot water
cylinder is in the loft with the cold water tank in a gravity system
[hence i am having a shower pump fitted].

disappointed to note what you say [in the energy efficiency sense, not
in your reply!] as i have just forked out of TRVs etc to aid
efficiency/bills reduction and now it seems it wont happen unless i
get my HW circuit overhalled.

i have just bought a Stuart Turner Showermate Pump which isnt suitable
for a whole pumped system but within these limits then what can i get
the plumber to do with the hot watr circuit at the same time as he is
putting the pump in to make it more energy efficient? is it to put
this zone valve malarky in the HW circuit? if so is it complicated to
do - the guy is a builder by trade but certainly not a fully-fledged
plumber.....

I think we need first to clear up a bit of confusion in order to distinguish
between gravity and gravity!

Sure, you have a gravity fed secondary hot water system, whereby water from
your cold header tank flows by gravity into the bottom of the hot cylinder,
pushing hot water out of the top to your hot taps. But that wasn't what I
meant.

You also have a 'gravity' *primary* hot water circuit (I suspect!). This is
the water which flows from the boiler to the heating coil inside your hot
cylinder and indirectly heats your domestic hot water without actually
mixing with it. The flow is referred to as 'gravity' because it circulates
by natural convection rather than using a pump. It's *this* circuit - which
is completely independent of the domestic hot water pipes per se - which
needs a zone valve in order to convert your system to a C-Plan and implement
a boiler interlock.

It is not a difficult job *as long as* you know what you are doing. You have
to insert the valve somewhere where it doesn't interfere with a clear path
from the boiler to the fill & expansion tank (that's the second, very much
smaller, header tank which you should have in the attic), and you have to
get the electrical wiring exactly right. Unless your man is reasonable at
plumbing and electrics, and has a good understanding of heating control
systems, I wouldn't let him near it!

How is he proposing to install the shower pump? To do it properly, you need
a dedicated hot feed from the hot cylinder - using a Surrey flange or
whatever, and not shared with any hot taps - and you need a dedicated cold
feed from the cold header tank which - ideally - is *lower* than the
take-off point for the cold feed to the hot cylinder. That way, if you
manage to empty the cold tank while showering, the hot stops before the
cold, so it doesn't scald you!
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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On Mon, 6 Dec 2004 22:58:06 -0000, "Set Square"
wrote:

If you want to exercise some control over it, and save a lot of energy,
you'll need to add some additional components. The best solution is to go
fully pumped and use a couple of zone valves to convert it to an S-Plan.
[See http://content.honeywell.com/uk/homes/systems.htm]

Better check that you have not got a primatic cylinder. I doubt they
would be suitable for a fully pumped system.

W