Speedfit technique
 

Hi all.
I have cut some notches in joists to accommodate the 22mm pipe runs.
When it come to positioning the 22mm-22mm-10mm Tees, should I
keep them close to the joist or can I just position them halfway between the
joists?

Also, is it easy or difficult to bend 22mm by hand within a gap between
joists of
about 12 inches?


Thanks.

Arthur

On Tue, 9 Nov 2004 23:04:06 +0000 (UTC), "Arthur"
wrote:

Hi all.
I have cut some notches in joists to accommodate the 22mm pipe runs.
When it come to positioning the 22mm-22mm-10mm Tees, should I
keep them close to the joist or can I just position them halfway between the
joists?

It's a good idea to leave some spacing (say minimum of 10mm) to allow
for the 22mm pipe to expand and contract without the risk of the
fittings coming right up to the joist.

Other than that, if you are bringing the 10mm pipe along parallel to
the joists, then it may make sense to have the fitting positioned to
allow the pipe to be clipped to the joist without having to put too
big a set of bends in the 10mm.



Also, is it easy or difficult to bend 22mm by hand within a gap between
joists of
about 12 inches?

What kind of bend? if it's 90 degrees, a bend in a 300mm radius is
reasonably easy. If you want to go tighter, then you get metal
formers which clip onto the pipe and hold it in place.




--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Nov 2004 23:04:06 +0000 (UTC), "Arthur"
wrote:

Hi all.
I have cut some notches in joists to accommodate the 22mm pipe runs.
When it come to positioning the 22mm-22mm-10mm Tees, should I
keep them close to the joist or can I just position them halfway between
the
joists?

It's a good idea to leave some spacing (say minimum of 10mm) to allow
for the 22mm pipe to expand and contract without the risk of the
fittings coming right up to the joist.

Oh my God. Yiou have got to be joking? Mmmm, no he isn't.

On Tue, 9 Nov 2004 23:51:07 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 9 Nov 2004 23:04:06 +0000 (UTC), "Arthur"
wrote:

Hi all.
I have cut some notches in joists to accommodate the 22mm pipe runs.
When it come to positioning the 22mm-22mm-10mm Tees, should I
keep them close to the joist or can I just position them halfway between
the
joists?

It's a good idea to leave some spacing (say minimum of 10mm) to allow
for the 22mm pipe to expand and contract without the risk of the
fittings coming right up to the joist.

Oh my God. Yiou have got to be joking? Mmmm, no he isn't.

The 22mm pipe is perpendicular to the joists........

Based on your exploits with incorrect bodged installation methods of
plastic plumbing, you are hardly in a position to comment, are you?




--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Nov 2004 23:51:07 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 9 Nov 2004 23:04:06 +0000 (UTC), "Arthur"
wrote:

Hi all.
I have cut some notches in joists to accommodate the 22mm pipe runs.
When it come to positioning the 22mm-22mm-10mm Tees, should I
keep them close to the joist or can I just position them halfway
between
the
joists?

It's a good idea to leave some spacing (say minimum of 10mm) to allow
for the 22mm pipe to expand and contract without the risk of the
fittings coming right up to the joist.

Oh my God. Yiou have got to be joking? Mmmm, no he isn't.

The 22mm pipe is perpendicular to the joists........

Based on your exploits with incorrect bodged installation

You clearly are a bodger by what you describe. Tsk, tsk.

On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 00:30:17 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 9 Nov 2004 23:51:07 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 9 Nov 2004 23:04:06 +0000 (UTC), "Arthur"
wrote:

Hi all.
I have cut some notches in joists to accommodate the 22mm pipe runs.
When it come to positioning the 22mm-22mm-10mm Tees, should I
keep them close to the joist or can I just position them halfway
between
the
joists?

It's a good idea to leave some spacing (say minimum of 10mm) to allow
for the 22mm pipe to expand and contract without the risk of the
fittings coming right up to the joist.

Oh my God. Yiou have got to be joking? Mmmm, no he isn't.

The 22mm pipe is perpendicular to the joists........

Based on your exploits with incorrect bodged installation

You clearly are a bodger by what you describe. Tsk, tsk.

If the fittings are placed tightly to the joists then there may be
insufficient provision for expansion and contraction and therefore a
potential straining of the joints. Undulation in the pipe may provide
enough expansion capability but care does need to be taken to ensure
that there is provision for thermal effects.







--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

In article ,
Andy Hall wrote:
You clearly are a bodger by what you describe. Tsk, tsk.

If the fittings are placed tightly to the joists then there may be
insufficient provision for expansion and contraction and therefore a
potential straining of the joints. Undulation in the pipe may provide
enough expansion capability but care does need to be taken to ensure
that there is provision for thermal effects.

No need to bother with expansion space if you've made the joints with a
hacksaw - they'll leak anyway...

--
*Is it true that cannibals don't eat clowns because they taste funny?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 00:30:17 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 9 Nov 2004 23:51:07 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 9 Nov 2004 23:04:06 +0000 (UTC), "Arthur"
wrote:

Hi all.
I have cut some notches in joists to accommodate the 22mm pipe
runs.
When it come to positioning the 22mm-22mm-10mm Tees, should I
keep them close to the joist or can I just position them halfway
between
the
joists?

It's a good idea to leave some spacing (say minimum of 10mm) to
allow
for the 22mm pipe to expand and contract without the risk of the
fittings coming right up to the joist.

Oh my God. Yiou have got to be joking? Mmmm, no he isn't.

The 22mm pipe is perpendicular to the joists........

Based on your exploits with incorrect bodged installation

You clearly are a bodger by what you describe. Tsk, tsk.

If the fittings are placed tightly to the joists then there may be
insufficient provision for expansion and contraction and therefore a
potential straining of the joints. Undulation in the pipe may provide
enough expansion capability but care does need to be taken to ensure
that there is provision for thermal effects.

Plastic joints should be well clipped either side to avoid strain on the
joint.

On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 01:11:52 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .


If the fittings are placed tightly to the joists then there may be
insufficient provision for expansion and contraction and therefore a
potential straining of the joints. Undulation in the pipe may provide
enough expansion capability but care does need to be taken to ensure
that there is provision for thermal effects.

Plastic joints should be well clipped either side to avoid strain on the
joint.


In fact they should be clipped in a way to allow longitudinal movement
for thermal expansion. For 22mm tube, support is only required for
horizontal runs every 0.5m anyway and the OP has a space of 300mm.



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 01:11:52 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .


If the fittings are placed tightly to the joists then there may be
insufficient provision for expansion and contraction and therefore a
potential straining of the joints. Undulation in the pipe may provide
enough expansion capability but care does need to be taken to ensure
that there is provision for thermal effects.

Plastic joints should be well clipped either side to avoid strain on the
joint.


In fact they should be clipped in a way to allow longitudinal movement
for thermal expansion. For 22mm tube, support is only required for
horizontal runs every 0.5m anyway and the OP has a space of 300mm.

They should be clipped either side of the joint which will not restrict
thermal expansion.

"IMM" wrote

Firstly, Speedfit is crap, use Marley Equator or Osma Gold. Secondly put
the tee near the joist, well clippedah.

you must be *THE* IMM!

you really exist! i thought people were winding me up when they told
me about a loon that insists on using a hacksaw with speedfit
fittings.

how are you? caused any more disasters recently?

shokka

"Shockwave" wrote in message
om...
"IMM" wrote

Firstly, Speedfit is crap, use Marley Equator or Osma Gold. Secondly
put
the tee near the joist, well clippedah.

you must be *THE* IMM!

you really exist! i thought people were winding me up when they told
me about a loon that insists on using a hacksaw with speedfit
fittings.

You must Mr Wave who knows sweet FA about pipes. Welcome Skock, join the
other know-it-all-who-have-done-nothing-amateurs. How are your yellow
boots?

IMM wrote:

They should be clipped either side of the joint which will not restrict
thermal expansion.

If the pipe is being threaded through holes in joists then there is no
need to clip it at all - the joists will support it.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

IMM wrote:

You must Mr Wave who knows sweet FA about pipes. Welcome Skock, join the
other know-it-all-who-have-done-nothing-amateurs. How are your yellow
boots?

Don't worry Shockwave, you can always tell when he knows he has lost an
argument, he start calling people names...

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 13:36:58 -0000, "IMM" wrote:

You must Mr Wave who knows sweet FA about pipes.

my friend is a plumer and he gives me lots of advice on pipes.

Welcome Skock, join the
other know-it-all-who-have-done-nothing-amateurs.

thank you for making me welcome. (its probably the only thing you can make. lol!)

you really are the uk.d-i-y version of reg prescott!

shokka

ps: i dont have yellow boots.

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
IMM wrote:

They should be clipped either side of the joint which will not restrict
thermal expansion.

If the pipe is being threaded through holes in joists then there is no
need to clip it at all - the joists will support it.

Read the thread again.

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
IMM wrote:

You must Mr Wave who knows sweet FA about pipes. Welcome Skock, join
the
other know-it-all-who-have-done-nothing-amateurs. How are your yellow
boots?

Don't worry Shockwave, you can always tell when he knows he has lost an
argument, he start calling people names...

Do you mean I should not acll Mr Wave, Mr Wave?

"Shockwave" wrote in message
om...
On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 13:36:58 -0000, "IMM" wrote:

You must Mr Wave who knows sweet FA about pipes.

my friend is a plumer and he gives me lots of advice on pipes.

A man who knows about pluming knows about pipes?

Welcome Skock, join the
other know-it-all-who-have-done-nothing-amateurs.

thank you for making me welcome. (its probably
the only thing you can make. lol!)

Mr Wave? Should do some pluming as well?

you really are the uk.d-i-y version of reg prescott!

Well Mr Wave, I do the the flash motor hanging about,.

"Steve Firth" wrote in message
.. .
IMM wrote:

A man who knows about pluming knows about pipes?

snip tripe from an illiterate bumpkin

On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 08:04:21 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 01:11:52 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .


If the fittings are placed tightly to the joists then there may be
insufficient provision for expansion and contraction and therefore a
potential straining of the joints. Undulation in the pipe may provide
enough expansion capability but care does need to be taken to ensure
that there is provision for thermal effects.

Plastic joints should be well clipped either side to avoid strain on the
joint.


In fact they should be clipped in a way to allow longitudinal movement
for thermal expansion. For 22mm tube, support is only required for
horizontal runs every 0.5m anyway and the OP has a space of 300mm.

They should be clipped either side of the joint which will not restrict
thermal expansion.



How would you propose to do that when the 22mm pipe is running
perpendicular to the joists? Where would you suggest fitting these
clips? I haven't found any manufacturer who suggests that clips
are needed in the context you suggest



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 19:13:44 +0000, (Steve Firth)
strung together this:

Someone who is as illiterate as IMM really shouldn't try to comment on
other people's spelling mistakes.

But what else could we have a good laugh at after a hard days work? I
think he's hilarious, especially with his gerbil knawed pipe leakery
antics.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd

"Lurch" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 19:13:44 +0000, (Steve Firth)
strung together this:

Someone who is as illiterate as IMM really shouldn't try to comment on
other people's spelling mistakes.

But what else could we have a good laugh at after a hard days work?

You work hard! Don't tell porkies!

On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 20:19:29 -0000, "IMM" strung
together this:

You work hard! Don't tell porkies!

I never said I worked hard, just that there had been a hard day, and I
was at work, which today involved no hard work, just a bit of patching
in and programming extensions on a Meridian. (And I didn't chew the
ends of the cables off with my teeth).
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd

In message , Andy Hall
writes
But even plastic pipe should be formed around an internal spring or outer
form, that's unless you're making the pipe form its own natural bend which
copper and pipe materials have. Plastic pipe will also kink if you try to
take it past this natural limit.

Which is why you can buy special formers to bend the pipe to its
correct radius and keep it there.

So tell me, what's wrong with a hacksaw and some insulation tape?

--
geoff

BigWallop wrote:

But even plastic pipe should be formed around an internal spring or outer
form, that's unless you're making the pipe form its own natural bend which
copper and pipe materials have. Plastic pipe will also kink if you try to
take it past this natural limit.

If you get the 25m reels of speedfit barrier pipe, then the usual
problem is unbending the stuff!

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
BigWallop wrote:

But even plastic pipe should be formed around an internal spring or
outer
form, that's unless you're making the pipe form its own natural bend
which
copper and pipe materials have. Plastic pipe will also kink if you try
to
take it past this natural limit.

If you get the 25m reels of speedfit barrier pipe, then the usual
problem is unbending the stuff!


Cheers,

John.


LOL Now that's very true. :-))

On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 17:03:47 -0000, "IMM" wrote:

you really are the uk.d-i-y version of reg prescott!

Well Mr Wave, I do the the flash motor hanging about,.

Errr....I think he means Reg Prescott off the telly, the one man DIY
disaster area!

sPoNiX

On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 17:01:22 -0000, "IMM" wrote:

Do you mean I should not acll Mr Wave, Mr Wave?

acll?

"Mr Harry" wrote in message
om...
(Shockwave) wrote in message
. com...

thank you for making me welcome. (its probably the only thing you can
make. lol!)

Nah, you forget that he's good at making complete cock-ups!

My God! You have been taking Maxie lessons.

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
BigWallop wrote:

But even plastic pipe should be formed around an internal spring or
outer
form, that's unless you're making the pipe form its own natural bend
which
copper and pipe materials have. Plastic pipe will also kink if you try
to
take it past this natural limit.

If you get the 25m reels of speedfit barrier pipe, then the usual
problem is unbending the stuff!

I know. Appalling stuff

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , Andy Hall
writes
But even plastic pipe should be formed around an internal spring or
outer
form, that's unless you're making the pipe form its own natural bend
which
copper and pipe materials have. Plastic pipe will also kink if you try
to
take it past this natural limit.

Which is why you can buy special formers to bend the pipe to its
correct radius and keep it there.

So tell me, what's wrong with a hacksaw and some insulation tape?

You tell 'em Maxie!

In article ,
IMM wrote:
Or best use copper pipe in the first place which stays bent when bent.

More likely flattened if you follow your usual procedure of not using the
correct tools...

--
*Why don't you ever see the headline "Psychic Wins Lottery"?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
IMM wrote:

Or best use copper pipe in the first place which stays bent when bent.

More likely flattened if you follow your usual procedure of not using the
correct tools...

Do you mean benders flatten the pipe? My, oh, my! Keep twiddling the bass
and treble knobs, and leave proper work to others.

In article ,
IMM wrote:
Or best use copper pipe in the first place which stays bent when
bent.

More likely flattened if you follow your usual procedure of not using
the correct tools...

Do you mean benders flatten the pipe? My, oh, my! Keep twiddling the
bass and treble knobs, and leave proper work to others.

I use a bender exclusively on copper tube. You, apparently, recommend a
spring. What a fool. You really need to get some practical experience on
pipework. Perhaps an evening class? Or even do some more reading.

--
*Why doesn't glue stick to the inside of the bottle?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"IMM" wrote in message
...

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
IMM wrote:

Or best use copper pipe in the first place which stays bent when bent.

More likely flattened if you follow your usual procedure of not using
the
correct tools...

Do you mean benders flatten the pipe?

Oh do read what has been said you little twerp.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
IMM wrote:
Or best use copper pipe in the first place which stays bent when
bent.

More likely flattened if you follow your usual procedure of not using
the correct tools...

Do you mean benders flatten the pipe? My, oh, my! Keep twiddling the
bass and treble knobs, and leave proper work to others.

I use a bender exclusively on copper tube.

Don't make things up.

You, apparently, recommend a
spring.

Yep.

What a fool.

You know sweet FA about pipework, keeping twiddling the bass and treble
knobs and admiring the shiny tools in the catalogues, not knowing hwat they
do, and what! those yellow boots.

snip tripe

"IMM" wrote:

You know sweet FA about pipework, keeping twiddling the bass and
treble
knobs and admiring the shiny tools in the catalogues, not knowing
hwat they
do, and what! those yellow boots.

u really are completely potty, aren't you?. go back to youre play doh
and crayons, theirs a good chap.

shokka

"Shockwave" wrote in message
om...
"IMM" wrote:

You know sweet FA about pipework, keeping twiddling the bass and
treble
knobs and admiring the shiny tools in the catalogues, not knowing
hwat they
do, and what! those yellow boots.

u really are completely potty, aren't you?. go back to youre play doh
and crayons, theirs a good chap.

shokka

Wow all that from man with a name like Shokka. Gosh.

In article ,
IMM wrote:
Do you mean benders flatten the pipe? My, oh, my! Keep twiddling
the bass and treble knobs, and leave proper work to others.

I use a bender exclusively on copper tube.

Don't make things up.

Oh *I* don't, and anyone who likes can come round and check out my Record
15/22mm one. As to hiring a floorstander, I've not needed to do so for
some time.

You, apparently, recommend a
spring.

Yep.

On 28mm. A bigger fool than I thought possible.

What a fool.

You know sweet FA about pipework, keeping twiddling the bass and treble
knobs and admiring the shiny tools in the catalogues, not knowing hwat
they do, and what! those yellow boots.

Keep digging the hole. Springs for 28mm, hacksaws for plastic. Perhaps you
don't realise the laughing stock you're making of yourself?

--
*When cheese gets its picture taken, what does it say? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.