The slate top of a garden table has been broken into two pieces. The break
is across the width and is about 3 ft. long. Being slate the fracture is at
an angle and forms a sort of scarf join. I want to stick the two bits
together to make a repair. My first thought is to use a two part epoxy
adhesive, such as Araldite, or are there more suitable adhesives available ?

One of my concerns in using Araldite outside is that it will be rather
viscous at the prevailing temperature thus making it difficult to cramp up
the join to make a snug fit. The table is too big and heavy to move indoors.

Richard.

"Richard" wrote in message
...
The slate top of a garden table has been broken into two pieces. The break
is across the width and is about 3 ft. long. Being slate the fracture is
at an angle and forms a sort of scarf join. I want to stick the two bits
together to make a repair. My first thought is to use a two part epoxy
adhesive, such as Araldite, or are there more suitable adhesives available
?

One of my concerns in using Araldite outside is that it will be rather
viscous at the prevailing temperature thus making it difficult to cramp up
the join to make a snug fit. The table is too big and heavy to move
indoors.

Araldite is the trade name for a whole range of adhesives.

http://www.silmid.com/araldite/2000range.htm

Araldite 2002 will probably be more suitable for your needs than the
puddingy stuff you buy in tubes in the DIY sheds.

Colin Bignell

On Tue, 2 Nov 2004 16:43:19 +0000 (UTC), "Richard"
wrote:

I want to stick the two bits together to make a repair.

Not a hope. Use a metal splint underneath. You'll be able to hold it
together with a glued butt, but any strength will rely on the splint
being in tension.

Fasten it to the slate with short drilled blind holes from beneath,
then bond in short stainless steel studs or parallel-thread
woodscrews. Screws need to be put in place "wet", studs can be glued
in, left to harden, then bolted up later.

To drill it, turn the slate upside down on a few layers of carpet or
foam underlay. Drill it _without_ hammer action, as many slates are
quite soft. If you do need hammer action, run the drill at the slowest
speed and use the lightest action you can. Blow the dust out
afterwards.

You can use either epoxy or the right grade of polyester. Araldite
isn't particularly good, as it's already over-thickened, but it would
do the job. Screwfix sell several suitable resins in a cartridge,
specially for use with wall fixings. Personally I'd use a better
grade epoxy, like West Systems. Epoxy is also good for bonding the
slate itself.

--
Smert' spamionam

On Tue, 02 Nov 2004 17:20:44 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Tue, 2 Nov 2004 16:43:19 +0000 (UTC), "Richard"
wrote:

I want to stick the two bits together to make a repair.

Not a hope. Use a metal splint underneath. You'll be able to hold it
together with a glued butt, but any strength will rely on the splint
being in tension.

Fasten it to the slate with short drilled blind holes from beneath,
then bond in short stainless steel studs or parallel-thread
woodscrews. Screws need to be put in place "wet", studs can be glued
in, left to harden, then bolted up later.

To drill it, turn the slate upside down on a few layers of carpet or
foam underlay. Drill it _without_ hammer action, as many slates are
quite soft. If you do need hammer action, run the drill at the slowest
speed and use the lightest action you can. Blow the dust out
afterwards.

You can use either epoxy or the right grade of polyester. Araldite
isn't particularly good, as it's already over-thickened, but it would
do the job. Screwfix sell several suitable resins in a cartridge,
specially for use with wall fixings. Personally I'd use a better
grade epoxy, like West Systems. Epoxy is also good for bonding the
slate itself.

I suggest you use a rust proof metal splint, I have an animal feed
trough, fixed in this way, the rusted metal has since made rather a
mess. The trough is very old, and the fix a good bit older than me.

Rick

One of my concerns in using Araldite outside is that it will be rather
viscous at the prevailing temperature thus making it difficult to cramp
up the join to make a snug fit. The table is too big and heavy to move
indoors.

Araldite is the trade name for a whole range of adhesives.

http://www.silmid.com/araldite/2000range.htm

Araldite 2002 will probably be more suitable for your needs than the
puddingy stuff you buy in tubes in the DIY sheds.

Colin Bignell

Thanks for the link Colin. I am unable to find any reference to the 2002
product there. The nearest I can get is 2012 but this is also a viscous
mixture or "gloop".

Richard

"Richard" wrote in message
...


One of my concerns in using Araldite outside is that it will be rather
viscous at the prevailing temperature thus making it difficult to cramp
up the join to make a snug fit. The table is too big and heavy to move
indoors.

Araldite is the trade name for a whole range of adhesives.

http://www.silmid.com/araldite/2000range.htm

Araldite 2002 will probably be more suitable for your needs than the
puddingy stuff you buy in tubes in the DIY sheds.

Colin Bignell

Thanks for the link Colin. I am unable to find any reference to the 2002
product there. The nearest I can get is 2012 but this is also a viscous
mixture or "gloop".

Sorry, that should have read 2020, a low viscosity adhesive designed for
bonding glass. I would think the problems will be similar to those of
bonding stone.

Colin Bignell

Andy Dingley wrote:

On Tue, 2 Nov 2004 16:43:19 +0000 (UTC), "Richard"
wrote:


I want to stick the two bits together to make a repair.


Not a hope. Use a metal splint underneath. You'll be able to hold it
together with a glued butt, but any strength will rely on the splint
being in tension.

Fasten it to the slate with short drilled blind holes from beneath,
then bond in short stainless steel studs or parallel-thread
woodscrews. Screws need to be put in place "wet", studs can be glued
in, left to harden, then bolted up later.

To drill it, turn the slate upside down on a few layers of carpet or
foam underlay. Drill it _without_ hammer action, as many slates are
quite soft. If you do need hammer action, run the drill at the slowest
speed and use the lightest action you can. Blow the dust out
afterwards.

You can use either epoxy or the right grade of polyester. Araldite
isn't particularly good, as it's already over-thickened, but it would
do the job. Screwfix sell several suitable resins in a cartridge,
specially for use with wall fixings. Personally I'd use a better
grade epoxy, like West Systems. Epoxy is also good for bonding the
slate itself.

I agre with all of this unreservedly, except consider liquid metal (or
polyester car body filler) as a way to BOND the splints to the slate. I
have used this with slate floor tiles and it sticks like buggery.

You can also use it to fill the scarf joint as its fairly close in
colour to grey slate.

wipe any surplus off with white spirit or cellulose thinners before it
sets, make sure surfaces are dry and grease free, and scarpe off any
oozes as it sets 'rubbery'

This will achieve what Andy is describing without the need to drill. But
remember your splints have to take the full stress of the broken slate -
don't rely on scarf joint adding any strength at aall.

nightjar nightjar@ wrote:

"Richard" wrote in message
...


One of my concerns in using Araldite outside is that it will be rather
viscous at the prevailing temperature thus making it difficult to cramp
up the join to make a snug fit. The table is too big and heavy to move
indoors.

Araldite is the trade name for a whole range of adhesives.

http://www.silmid.com/araldite/2000range.htm

Araldite 2002 will probably be more suitable for your needs than the
puddingy stuff you buy in tubes in the DIY sheds.

Colin Bignell


Thanks for the link Colin. I am unable to find any reference to the 2002
product there. The nearest I can get is 2012 but this is also a viscous
mixture or "gloop".


Sorry, that should have read 2020, a low viscosity adhesive designed for
bonding glass. I would think the problems will be similar to those of
bonding stone.

Colin Bignell


I thik car body filler is entirely adequate, and you can get it at
halfords, or 'liquid metal' - same basic stuff.

The key is in the splints.