So after 5 yrs I've got the dreaded Suprima lock out occuring.

I assumed it would be the PCB, but it looks remarkably clean and undamaged,
no scorching etc, although on close (naked eye) examination some of the
soldering does look a bit iffy.

Is it worth trying to resolder the board, or should I just be thankful that
it's lasted 5 yrs & buy a new one?
I noticed that after I gave the board a good looking at, it worked fine for
a week, then the lockouts increase in frequency until I take the board out
again. Is there a common point of failure on these boards - I wondered if
the connector headers (or even the connectors themselves) might be the cause
as removing and reinstalling the board seems to clear it for a while?

One last question - there seem to be 3 part numbers for the PCB - mine is
407750, but that seems to have been replaced by 5102160. Some places
however say the latest board is 5111603. Are they all interchangeable?

Rob

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , ":::Jerry::::"
writes

snip

Well, the problem with my board was a dry joint on the pump supply pin
(that
eventually vaporised...), as I se it, you certainly have nothing to loose
by
re soldering any suspect joints etc. In my case we soldered a 'jumper
wire'
between the pin and the next joint back and thus bypassed the damaged
many
months later it's still functioning OK.

Let me guess - you have a Puma


Suprima 30, why do you ask, if you Google you'll find a thread I started...

In message , ":::Jerry::::"
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , ":::Jerry::::"
writes

snip

Well, the problem with my board was a dry joint on the pump supply pin
(that
eventually vaporised...), as I se it, you certainly have nothing to loose
by
re soldering any suspect joints etc. In my case we soldered a 'jumper
wire'
between the pin and the next joint back and thus bypassed the damaged
many
months later it's still functioning OK.

Let me guess - you have a Puma


Suprima 30, why do you ask, if you Google you'll find a thread I started...

It's the favourite failure mode of the Puma pcb. It's not common for
Suprimas to go that badly


--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , ":::Jerry::::"
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , ":::Jerry::::"
writes

snip

Well, the problem with my board was a dry joint on the pump supply pin
(that
eventually vaporised...), as I se it, you certainly have nothing to
loose
by
re soldering any suspect joints etc. In my case we soldered a 'jumper
wire'
between the pin and the next joint back and thus bypassed the damaged
many
months later it's still functioning OK.

Let me guess - you have a Puma


Suprima 30, why do you ask, if you Google you'll find a thread I
started...

It's the favourite failure mode of the Puma pcb. It's not common for
Suprimas to go that badly


It had (evidently) been the cause of many problems over about 4 years,
mostly put down to other components [1] by the people who installed the
boiler, it was only once it failed completely (and visibly...) that the real
cause of the many problems found. The board was replaced by a new PCB, which
promptly feel over it's self (power supply regulation I suspect) and because
the wholesaler wanted to send the board back to Potterton for checking
before issuing a replacement I have to do something short of buying a second
new board - hence the repair noted above, and as this repair has been
working faultlessly for many months I'm now loathed to fit the replacement
PCB even though I have one sitting in it sealed box. Once bittern twice shy
as they say !

[1] I lost count of how many complete 3 port valves they fitted or parts of,
at their expense each time it would keep locking out. The strange thing was,
after causing problems for a few weeks it would then work perfectly for
several months, I suppose the solder was melting and remaking the (dry)
joint until such time that there wasn't enough solder left to carry the load
imposed by the pump and that is when the joint finally vaporised.