Apologies for slightly daft question, but I hate to accumulate pots of
stuff and not know what they're good for besides one-off application.

I bought the sealer to coat a Moroccan tile-topped table. I bought
Thinners to clean the brush. I've got nearly full pots of both left.
Where else can I use it? (I asked bloke in shop where I bought
Thinners and he had no idea :-( )

TIA
Katharine

In article ,
Katharine Mill wrote:
I bought the sealer to coat a Moroccan tile-topped table. I bought
Thinners to clean the brush. I've got nearly full pots of both left.
Where else can I use it? (I asked bloke in shop where I bought
Thinners and he had no idea :-( )

Cellulose thinners is an excellent cleaning solvent - it will remove most
things. But only really safe on metal, etc, as it can dissolve some
plastics, and of course some paint.

--
*Do paediatricians play miniature golf on Wednesdays?

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

Dave Plowman wrote:

In article ,
Katharine Mill wrote:

I bought the sealer to coat a Moroccan tile-topped table. I bought
Thinners to clean the brush. I've got nearly full pots of both left.
Where else can I use it? (I asked bloke in shop where I bought
Thinners and he had no idea :-( )


Cellulose thinners is an excellent cleaning solvent - it will remove most
things. But only really safe on metal, etc, as it can dissolve some
plastics, and of course some paint.



Cellulose is great for sealing balsa wood planes..

Actually its not bad on all wood as a primer sealer. Bsiaclly its a
smelly but pnetrating and fast drying semipermeable layer.

You can use it to prepare wood for spraying too - with celluose sprays
(try Halfords) You can mix it with baby powder to mkae a filler/primer
as well that bulds up fast and sands well to an ultra smoth finish.

The thinnres is one of teh best ways to destroy ploystyrene known to man
or alien. If ou careve foam to shape and mould galss resin or pa;[ier
mache around it, you can get teh styrene out afterwds by wshing it with
the thiners.

Its also a good paint brush cleaner.

In article , says...
snip
The thinnres is one of teh best ways to destroy ploystyrene known to man
or alien. If ou careve foam to shape and mould galss resin or pa;[ier
mache around it, you can get teh styrene out afterwds by wshing it with
the thiners.

Its also a good paint brush cleaner.



I always thought so till I dunked a whole brush into it one day and it
melted the handle.

Its a bit expensive as brush cleanet IMHO

Paul Mc Cann

In article ,
Paul Mc Cann wrote:
Its a bit expensive as brush cleanet IMHO

Not if you buy a 5 litre can of 'cooking' thinners (used for gun cleaning)
from your local car body paint supplier - should cost about 5 quid. 'Fast'
thinners used for the top coat costs more.

For you car DIY types, it's excellent for removing petrol 'varnish' from
carbs or fuel injection parts, and much cheaper than the aerosols sold for
the purpose.

--
*Time is the best teacher; unfortunately it kills all its students.

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

"Dave Plowman" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Paul Mc Cann wrote:
Its a bit expensive as brush cleanet IMHO

Not if you buy a 5 litre can of 'cooking' thinners (used for gun cleaning)
from your local car body paint supplier - should cost about 5 quid. 'Fast'
thinners used for the top coat costs more.

For you car DIY types, it's excellent for removing petrol 'varnish' from
carbs or fuel injection parts, and much cheaper than the aerosols sold for
the purpose.


Yes, but don't buy the cheapest 'Gun Wash' thinners as there is sometimes a
high water content that can remain longer than the cellulose thinner IYSWIM.

Paul Mc Cann wrote:

In article , says...
snip

The thinnres is one of teh best ways to destroy ploystyrene known to man
or alien. If ou careve foam to shape and mould galss resin or pa;[ier
mache around it, you can get teh styrene out afterwds by wshing it with
the thiners.

Its also a good paint brush cleaner.




I always thought so till I dunked a whole brush into it one day and it
melted the handle.



Use wooden ones


Its a bit expensive as brush cleanet IMHO


Not if you have gallons lying around doing nothing, which the OP has.



Paul Mc Cann

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I always thought so till I dunked a whole brush into it one day and it
melted the handle.

Use wooden ones

It'll probably still take the paint off the handle.

--
*Time is the best teacher; unfortunately it kills all its students.

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

On 30 Mar 2004 05:26:52 -0800, (Katharine Mill) wrote:

Apologies for slightly daft question, but I hate to accumulate pots of
stuff and not know what they're good for besides one-off application.

I bought the sealer to coat a Moroccan tile-topped table. I bought
Thinners to clean the brush. I've got nearly full pots of both left.
Where else can I use it? (I asked bloke in shop where I bought
Thinners and he had no idea :-( )

Too late now, I suppose, but it would probably have worked out cheaper to
have simply sacrificed the brush rather than spend a lot on a tin of
specialist "brush cleaners". I find Polycell's brush cleaner will break
down most things apart from the likes of Hammerite, so that's always worth a
try before slinging the brush. One problem with some thinners is that that
is all they do - thin. There will still be residue in the brush, not always
easily taken out with hot soapy water. Always brush out as much of the
paint/lacquer as possible onto newspaper or similar, before cleaning.

As for what you have left, see other suggestions. Model makers probably
don't have much call for cellulose products any more. I'd hang onto them in
case the finish starts to craze and has to be re-applied. Cellulose seems a
slightly strange choice for (ceramic?) tiles, but I'm no expert.

--
Another brilyunt mind diztroyed by publik edukashn.

Mail john rather than nospam...

John Laird wrote:

On 30 Mar 2004 05:26:52 -0800, (Katharine Mill) wrote:


Apologies for slightly daft question, but I hate to accumulate pots of
stuff and not know what they're good for besides one-off application.

I bought the sealer to coat a Moroccan tile-topped table. I bought
Thinners to clean the brush. I've got nearly full pots of both left.
Where else can I use it? (I asked bloke in shop where I bought
Thinners and he had no idea :-( )


Too late now, I suppose, but it would probably have worked out cheaper to
have simply sacrificed the brush rather than spend a lot on a tin of
specialist "brush cleaners". I find Polycell's brush cleaner will break
down most things apart from the likes of Hammerite, so that's always worth a
try before slinging the brush. One problem with some thinners is that that
is all they do - thin. There will still be residue in the brush, not always
easily taken out with hot soapy water. Always brush out as much of the
paint/lacquer as possible onto newspaper or similar, before cleaning.

As for what you have left, see other suggestions. Model makers probably
don't have much call for cellulose products any more.


Some of us do.

Its still the classiest finsih available for wood.

I'd hang onto them in
case the finish starts to craze and has to be re-applied. Cellulose seems a
slightly strange choice for (ceramic?) tiles, but I'm no expert.

Dave Plowman wrote:

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

I always thought so till I dunked a whole brush into it one day and it
melted the handle.


Use wooden ones


It'll probably still take the paint off the handle.



Use unpainted handles :-)

On Sat, 10 Apr 2004 14:50:35 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

John Laird wrote:

As for what you have left, see other suggestions. Model makers probably
don't have much call for cellulose products any more.

Some of us do.

Its still the classiest finsih available for wood.

Ah, you're a real model maker, not a toy plane enthusiast then :-) Plastic
in its many forms seems to have taken over as the material of choice for
both construction and finish.

--
I would if I could but I can't so I won't.

Mail john rather than nospam...

John Laird wrote:

On Sat, 10 Apr 2004 14:50:35 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:


John Laird wrote:

As for what you have left, see other suggestions. Model makers probably
don't have much call for cellulose products any more.

Some of us do.

Its still the classiest finsih available for wood.


Ah, you're a real model maker, not a toy plane enthusiast then :-) Plastic
in its many forms seems to have taken over as the material of choice for
both construction and finish.




Still cover up the plastic and spary cellulose on it.