"jonni" wrote in message
...
Currenlty doing up my old council semi and have stripped the Kitchen out
in
preperation for the Plasterer arriving on Monday to skim coat the walls.
Problem I have is the ceiling...... it will not be skimmed along with the
walls and there is quite clearly visible tape from where the plasterboard
was joined originally

See picture - http://www.btinternet.com/~jonni/kitceiling.jpg

What would you recommend the best solution to rectify this? Arranging and
paying for the ceiling to be skimmed seems excessive, would it be possible
to remove the tape and use a filler with flexibility then smooth it off
and
repaint?

Although it may not look it in the picture, the rest of the ceiling is
smooth, it's just the couple of lines of tape which are visible that cause
the problem

Any advice is appreciated

Jonni

PS: Incidentallly - I am also considering the 2 day plastering course
offered by these guys - any comments?

http://www.plasteringworkshop.co.uk/default.aspx



1) Just wanted to update after receiving advice on above. Plasteter arrived
a skimmed all walls as planned (paid for by local authority). While he was
on site I took the opportunity to ask him if he wanted to 'do' the ceiling
(see photo link above). He agreed to strap & sheet then skim - £60 materials
£80 labour.

2) Now that the kitchen walls are drying and turning lighter I am noticing
some trowel marks and small indentaions, not huge but certainly still
noticable I think when coated in paint..........- sorry if I'm being overly
fussy it that quite normal for a skimmed wall? - I have to say the majority
is nice and smooth (read very smooth) and the beading placed over my old
rounded corners is fantastic....... the trovel marks are noticable enough
for me to think about buying some ready mix plaster and 'filling them' here
and there..... Any thoughts??

3) How long should I now wait before painitng these walls? what should I use
for the first coat?...... I've heard talk of diluted emulsion?

4) I've also arranged for him to come and skim my living room - £300 - 4.2m
x 3.2m room, which I thought was reasonable

Just finish by saying...... the skim coat has transformed my kitchen!!......
Any plasterers out there give yourself a pat on the back from me! and keep
up the good work.

Jonni

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 18:03:49 GMT, "jonni" wrote:

"jonni" wrote in message
.. .
Currenlty doing up my old council semi and have stripped the Kitchen out
in
preperation for the Plasterer arriving on Monday to skim coat the walls.
Problem I have is the ceiling...... it will not be skimmed along with the
walls and there is quite clearly visible tape from where the plasterboard
was joined originally

See picture - http://www.btinternet.com/~jonni/kitceiling.jpg

What would you recommend the best solution to rectify this? Arranging and
paying for the ceiling to be skimmed seems excessive, would it be possible
to remove the tape and use a filler with flexibility then smooth it off
and
repaint?

Although it may not look it in the picture, the rest of the ceiling is
smooth, it's just the couple of lines of tape which are visible that cause
the problem

Any advice is appreciated

Jonni

Pull the tape off and bin it. Use a fine surface filler to fill the
crack slightly proud and lightly sand smooth.
(What I would do, for what it's worth)

1) Just wanted to update after receiving advice on above. Plasteter
arrived
a skimmed all walls as planned (paid for by local authority). While he was
on site I took the opportunity to ask him if he wanted to 'do' the ceiling
(see photo link above). He agreed to strap & sheet then skim - £60
materials
£80 labour.


Jonni



What is "strap & sheet" please?

In message , jonni
writes
"jonni" wrote in message
.. .
Currenlty doing up my old council semi and have stripped the Kitchen out
in
preperation for the Plasterer arriving on Monday to skim coat the walls.
Problem I have is the ceiling...... it will not be skimmed along with the
walls and there is quite clearly visible tape from where the plasterboard
was joined originally


1) Just wanted to update after receiving advice on above.

2) Now that the kitchen walls are drying and turning lighter I am noticing
some trowel marks and small indentaions, not huge but certainly still
noticable I think when coated in paint..........- sorry if I'm being overly
fussy it that quite normal for a skimmed wall? - I have to say the majority
is nice and smooth (read very smooth) and the beading placed over my old
rounded corners is fantastic....... the trovel marks are noticable enough
for me to think about buying some ready mix plaster and 'filling them' here
and there..... Any thoughts??


Wouldn't bother with ready mixed plaster, a bit of polyfilla will do the
job fine.

3) How long should I now wait before painitng these walls? what should I use
for the first coat?...... I've heard talk of diluted emulsion?


For a skimmed wall a few days is enough - once it looks dry. I use
diluted white emulsion (about 20-25%) for the initial coat. you can get
stuff like Dulux Supermatt for freshly plastered wall, but IME that
isn't necessary for a skim coat.

4) I've also arranged for him to come and skim my living room - £300 - 4.2m
x 3.2m room, which I thought was reasonable

Yep sounds ok, I've paid a similar price for our rooms.

Just finish by saying...... the skim coat has transformed my kitchen!!......

Yep, it makes the world of difference - we've ended up doing nearly all
the rooms in our house - smooth walls, and ceilings, crisp corners
luverly.
--
Chris French, Leeds

1) Just wanted to update after receiving advice on above. Plasteter
arrived
a skimmed all walls as planned (paid for by local authority). While he was
on site I took the opportunity to ask him if he wanted to 'do' the ceiling
(see photo link above). He agreed to strap & sheet then skim - £60
materials
£80 labour.

What materials is he using!? I bought a bag of plaster tonight for just over
3 quid, and plasterboard is only a few quid a sheet isnt it?

In article ,
"a" writes:
1) Just wanted to update after receiving advice on above. Plasteter
arrived
a skimmed all walls as planned (paid for by local authority). While he was
on site I took the opportunity to ask him if he wanted to 'do' the ceiling
(see photo link above). He agreed to strap & sheet then skim - £60
materials
£80 labour.

What materials is he using!? I bought a bag of plaster tonight for just over
3 quid, and plasterboard is only a few quid a sheet isnt it?

Tea, biscuits, 4 large bags of sugar...

ISTR materials for skimming two of my rooms came to around £50.

--
Andrew Gabriel

3) How long should I now wait before painitng these walls? what should I
use
for the first coat?...... I've heard talk of diluted emulsion?

Wait a couple of weeks. Ensure that the colour has changed to dry. A simple
skim should do this in a couple of days.

Seal using white Dulux Trade Supermatt thinned 25% water, 75% paint.
Then paint using your chosen colour Dulux Trade Supermatt. 2 coats.

Ensure it is really Supermatt, rather than standard Vinyl emulsion.

Use a roller. Cover everything in sheets, the thinned stuff will splash.

Christian.

In message , Christian
McArdle writes
3) How long should I now wait before painitng these walls? what should I
use
for the first coat?...... I've heard talk of diluted emulsion?

Wait a couple of weeks. Ensure that the colour has changed to dry. A simple
skim should do this in a couple of days.

Seal using white Dulux Trade Supermatt thinned 25% water, 75% paint.
Then paint using your chosen colour Dulux Trade Supermatt. 2 coats.

Ensure it is really Supermatt, rather than standard Vinyl emulsion.

AIUI Supermatt is really intended for fresh plaster that hasn't had time
to fully dry out.

Certainly on all the walls and ceilings we have had skimmed (most of
them now) I've just used a diluted standard vinyl matt emulsion
- normally Dulux Trade and have had no problems some rooms been
decorated about 5 years now.
--
Chris French, Leeds

AIUI Supermatt is really intended for fresh plaster that hasn't had time
to fully dry out.

It is also suitable as a general purpose emulsion. It doesn't actually
require the plaster to be wet. However, it does take the risk out of the
equation if the plaster skim really hasn't dried out yet. It is available in
the full range of colours, too. Except for white and magnolia, it is
generally mixed to order in the shop.

Certainly on all the walls and ceilings we have had skimmed (most of
them now) I've just used a diluted standard vinyl matt emulsion

Obviously, just doing a skim is less risky that the full bonding and you
will probably get away with using a standard emulsion if you leave it long
enough, but you might as well use the Supermatt just in case. It isn't
grossly expensive, or anything.

Christian.

"Cycle" wrote in message
...


1) Just wanted to update after receiving advice on above. Plasteter
arrived
a skimmed all walls as planned (paid for by local authority). While he
was
on site I took the opportunity to ask him if he wanted to 'do' the
ceiling
(see photo link above). He agreed to strap & sheet then skim - £60
materials
£80 labour.


Jonni



What is "strap & sheet" please?


Think that's trade talk for fix wooden frame and plasterboard it.

Jonni

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 18:33:00 GMT, EricP wrote:

Pull the tape off and bin it. Use a fine surface filler to fill the
crack slightly proud and lightly sand smooth.
(What I would do, for what it's worth)

I came across a new product in Homebase about a month ago which may be
of interest.

I was painting a staircase for someone and there was a hairline crack
running down the wall. Previously I've made such cracks a little wider
and then polyfilla'd, sanded, polyfilla'd again, sanded again, and
been left with evidence that there was a crack there once.

Anyway, went to Homebase to pick up the required paint. Whilst nosing
around I came across a polyfilla product in a round tin, it stated
"for filling fine cracks". I thought yeah, big deal, but I'll give
anything a try.

Took it back, brushed the dust out of from the hairline crack (that
was all the preparation I needed to do), and then used a paintbrush to
paint this stuff on - no knives or anything. A couple of hours later
it had dried and with very light sanding the crack had gone. And I
mean gone. When I painted the wall that crack was nowhere to be seen.
Paul Daniels wouldn't have been able to make that crack disappear
better with his smoke and mirrors.

Excellent stuff which I highly recommend for any fine cracks. Minimal
preparation, easy to apply, and a piece of p!ss to finish. When you
paint it on it feels a bit "rubbery", but it does a damn fine job of
filling the crack. Polyfilla have a winner with this one in my
opinion.

Don't recall the actual name, but it was in the usual Polyfilla
colours with their logo. And it was on the fillers shelf. Buy a small
tin size (don't know if they do it in anything larger anyway) 'cos you
will hardly use anything more than a couple of brush strokes.

Andrew

"jonni" wrote in message
...

"Cycle" wrote in message
...


1) Just wanted to update after receiving advice on above. Plasteter
arrived
a skimmed all walls as planned (paid for by local authority). While he
was
on site I took the opportunity to ask him if he wanted to 'do' the
ceiling
(see photo link above). He agreed to strap & sheet then skim - £60
materials
£80 labour.


Jonni



What is "strap & sheet" please?


Think that's trade talk for fix wooden frame and plasterboard it.

Jonni


Thank you.

Cycle.

In message , Andrew McKay
writes
On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 18:33:00 GMT, EricP wrote:

Pull the tape off and bin it. Use a fine surface filler to fill the
crack slightly proud and lightly sand smooth.
(What I would do, for what it's worth)

I came across a new product in Homebase about a month ago which may be
of interest.

Actually it's not that new, I bought some a few years ago.

Anyway, went to Homebase to pick up the required paint. Whilst nosing
around I came across a polyfilla product in a round tin, it stated
"for filling fine cracks". I thought yeah, big deal, but I'll give
anything a try.

I've used it as well and found it worked well.

For fine, but larger than hairline cracks I find Fine Surface polyfilla
works well.
--
Chris French, Leeds