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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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How much weight to put in a loft
In a victorian house of standard construction with an apex roof, how
much weight can one put in the loft? I have a bunch of old books and tapes I'd like to hide, but I've never had a loft before...don't wantthe ceiling coming down. Cheers John |
#2
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In a victorian house of standard construction with an apex roof, how
much weight can one put in the loft? There are all sorts of roof construction with different constructions, so it is not possible to give you a definitive answer. However, it is unlikely that a Victorian loft would be suitable for heavy storage, as the joist sizes are very unlikely to be anywhere near that required by modern building regulations. If you give some idea of the joist dimensions, the span and the type of support (i.e. hanging from ceiling, attached to rafters, lying on structural wall, someone might give you some sort of idea. Christian. |
#3
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"JK" wrote in message ... In a victorian house of standard construction with an apex roof, how much weight can one put in the loft? I have a bunch of old books and tapes I'd like to hide, but I've never had a loft before...don't wantthe ceiling coming down. In all probability, you should be careful of simply walking around up there. The joists were usually just strong enough to hold up the ceiling and not always strong enough to do that. Colin Bignell |
#4
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nightjar nightjar@ wrote:
"JK" wrote in message ... In a victorian house of standard construction with an apex roof, how much weight can one put in the loft? I have a bunch of old books and tapes I'd like to hide, but I've never had a loft before...don't wantthe ceiling coming down. In all probability, you should be careful of simply walking around up there. The joists were usually just strong enough to hold up the ceiling and not always strong enough to do that. Colin Bignell Thanks, both of you, it's as I thought. Now I can explain to the management that we have to keep the books under the bed! |
#5
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In article ,
"Christian McArdle" writes: In a victorian house of standard construction with an apex roof, how much weight can one put in the loft? There are all sorts of roof construction with different constructions, so it is not possible to give you a definitive answer. However, it is unlikely that a Victorian loft would be suitable for heavy storage, as the joist sizes are very unlikely to be anywhere near that required by modern building regulations. Agreed. I generally keep only empty boxes up there for packing things back in when I move. There are a few heavy things up there, and they are all positioned in a line along the top of the structural wall which supports the centres of the loft joists. -- Andrew Gabriel |
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JK wrote:
In a victorian house of standard construction with an apex roof, how much weight can one put in the loft? I have a bunch of old books and tapes I'd like to hide, but I've never had a loft before...don't wantthe ceiling coming down. It won't collapse, but it may bow unacceptably. Weigh yourself, and the books, and then walk around in it. You will know when the deflection is too severe. Cheers John |
#7
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Weigh yourself, and the books, and then walk around in it.
You will know when the deflection is too severe. And even with narrow joists, you can normally get some useful heavy storage right over a supporting structural wall, if there are any. Christian. |
#8
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Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article , "Christian McArdle" writes: In a victorian house of standard construction with an apex roof, how much weight can one put in the loft? There are all sorts of roof construction with different constructions, so it is not possible to give you a definitive answer. However, it is unlikely that a Victorian loft would be suitable for heavy storage, as the joist sizes are very unlikely to be anywhere near that required by modern building regulations. Agreed. I generally keep only empty boxes up there for packing things back in when I move. There are a few heavy things up there, and they are all positioned in a line along the top of the structural wall which supports the centres of the loft joists. I'm amazed at how flimsy many people's lofts seem to be, I've never seen one of these lofts with 4" or less ceiling joists. In all my experience from my parent's 1950s built house through all the houses we've owned the joists have, in the main, been overkill for the job. Our present 1920s built house has 6" (at least) by 2" ceiling joists at, I would guess, less than 18" spacing. It feels much the same as previous lofts that I remember. I think the major stress on our joists is tension from the weight of the roof, maybe that's why they're much bigger than needed to support the ceiling. -- Chris Green |
#9
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In all my experience from my parent's 1950s built house through all
the houses we've owned the joists have, in the main, been overkill for the job. Building regulations recognise that lofts are used for storage and mandate reasonable joist sizes. Old Victorian houses often have joists sufficient for holding up the ceiling and a person performing maintenance but little more. You may be influenced by living in more modern houses that have been subject to building regs. Having said this, some modern houses using prefabricated roof trusses seem to have smaller joists than recommended by building regulations for freestanding joists, presumably because there is a hanging effect from the struts. Christian. |
#10
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JK wrote in message ...
nightjar nightjar@ wrote: "JK" wrote in message ... In a victorian house of standard construction with an apex roof, how much weight can one put in the loft? I have a bunch of old books and tapes I'd like to hide, but I've never had a loft before...don't wantthe ceiling coming down. In all probability, you should be careful of simply walking around up there. The joists were usually just strong enough to hold up the ceiling and not always strong enough to do that. Colin Bignell Thanks, both of you, it's as I thought. Now I can explain to the management that we have to keep the books under the bed! I'm afraid youve been quite misinformed today. This is explained fully in another thread.... see if I can find it... http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=e...ing.google.com The thread's called loft costs NT |
#11
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Christian McArdle wrote:
In all my experience from my parent's 1950s built house through all the houses we've owned the joists have, in the main, been overkill for the job. Building regulations recognise that lofts are used for storage and mandate reasonable joist sizes. Old Victorian houses often have joists sufficient for holding up the ceiling and a person performing maintenance but little more. You may be influenced by living in more modern houses that have been subject to building regs. Having said this, some modern houses using prefabricated roof trusses seem to have smaller joists than recommended by building regulations for freestanding joists, presumably because there is a hanging effect from the struts. Yes. Prefab W braced strus shwo far elss deformatiuon per unit load, and are lighter to boot than single joists sapaning - particularly large - spans. Also restricted access in such a roof discourages its use for storage. I don't think the regs actually specify the use of strong structures UNLESS intended for storage. There is a commoin confusion between strength and rigidity. Victorian stuff is usually well strong enough, but flexible which is what 'brings the plaster down' If you hae a flexibility problem installing your own hangers from roof to ceiling joist will help immmensely. Christian. |
#12
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The OP has been answered but here's a little p.s.: Our house was built
in 1962. Dunno what the technical name for the roof construction is, but it's a triangular void, with a couple of very long spanning timbers joining the two sides of the roof, at about the half-way point. My next door neighbour put a carpet (or two) in his loft many years ago; then a couple of glass doors ; then a few boxes; etc etc etc. The ceiling has never fallen in .... but his ROOF SAGS! It's been pulled down, over the years, by the geological movement caused by the total weight of carpets etc. pulling against the spanning timbers. It's not a disastrous problem, nor one that can't really be fixed by getting rid of most of the weight ... but it's summat to think about, innit? John |
#13
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"N. Thornton" wrote in message m... JK wrote in message ... nightjar nightjar@ wrote: "JK" wrote in message ... In a victorian house of standard construction with an apex roof, how much weight can one put in the loft? I have a bunch of old books and tapes I'd like to hide, but I've never had a loft before...don't wantthe ceiling coming down. In all probability, you should be careful of simply walking around up there. The joists were usually just strong enough to hold up the ceiling and not always strong enough to do that. Colin Bignell Thanks, both of you, it's as I thought. Now I can explain to the management that we have to keep the books under the bed! I'm afraid youve been quite misinformed today. This is explained fully in another thread.... see if I can find it... http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=e...ing.google.com The thread's called loft costs Unless they have been underdrawn or otherwise strengthened, Victorian houses will have lath and plaster ceilings, which, by now, tend to be held up as much by habit as anything else. It does not need the ceiling to change shape by much for them to decide to give up the habit and fall into the room below. Colin Bignell |
#14
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"Ian Middleton" wrote in message ...
Christian. A friend of mine in an 1890's terrace house with 2inch (?) joists that deflected when you walked on them (and cracked ceiling plaster) fitted shelves onto the two dividing walls and placed all the heavy items on them. Installed a couple of 8x2 sheets of flooring board (on raised battons so as to no squash the insullation and add extra strength) to allow easy access to walls, but basically tried to keep everything off joists. Also suffered from severe dirt and dust as no roofing felt in house of this age. If lofts are barely strong enough for a person, how are water tanks supported?? |
#15
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In article , Adder
wrote: If lofts are barely strong enough for a person, how are water tanks supported?? By being placed over/close to a loadbearing wall and/or the weight being spread across a number of joists. When you walk around your loft there is a fair chance that your entire 200lbs (or whatever) will at times be applied at the centre of a single joist. -- Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk Free SEDBUK boiler database browser http://www.sda.co.uk/qsedbuk.htm |
#16
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++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++
This article was posted to usenet, the information in it may not be published in, or used by http://www.diyprojects.info ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++ In usenet article , Tony Bryer wrote: In article , Adder wrote: If lofts are barely strong enough for a person, how are water tanks supported?? By being placed over/close to a loadbearing wall and/or the weight being spread across a number of joists. But it's surprising what can be got away with. Some years ago I removed an old leaky tank from the airing cupboard. At first sight it _appeared_ to be well supported on a couple of 4 x 2 timbers spanning the width of the cupboard. But the ends of the 4 x 2's were only resting on pieces of t&g floorboard fastened on edge to the side walls running fore and aft. After removing the tank I was able to lift the 4 x 2's off their supports. The t&g was just nailed to the 2 x 2 studding in the plasterboard wall and was easily pulled off by hand. The local spec. builder must have got away with building hundreds of houses this way. -- Mike Clarke |
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