I need to take a new feed from my cold water cistern in the loft in order to
hook up a power shower so I've bought a tank connector from Wickes. It
didn't come with any washers, which I assume I need. Is this correct? If so,
what sort - they sell all kinds, leather, rubber etc (I am still talking
about Wickes here by the way). I assume I need to use PTFE on the thread of
the connector. Is it also worth using some kind of sealant (silicone,
plumbers mait, etc) to ensure a bombproof seal?

Also, as it's only a 15mm connector (it will only be used for the shower), I
haven't seen a holesaw that will make a small enough hole. The tank is
plastic - will a flat wood drill bit work, or will it result in me having to
buy a new cistern?

TIA,
Andy

On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 11:38:05 +0000 (UTC), "AndyP"
wrote:

I need to take a new feed from my cold water cistern in the loft in order to
hook up a power shower so I've bought a tank connector from Wickes. It
didn't come with any washers, which I assume I need. Is this correct? If so,
what sort - they sell all kinds, leather, rubber etc (I am still talking
about Wickes here by the way). I assume I need to use PTFE on the thread of
the connector. Is it also worth using some kind of sealant (silicone,
plumbers mait, etc) to ensure a bombproof seal?

I assume it's a brass one?

If so, it should have a flat flexible washer with it - normally black.

You don't need PTFE tape on it. Generally what I do is to put some
silicone sealer on the flange and insert into the hole, together with
the washer, some silicone one the outside and then the nut.

There are normally two small brass lugs on the inside flange which are
used for grippers for doing all this up.

Leave the outside nut slightly loose and complete the plumbing into
the compression fitting on the outside. With grippers on the lugs
inside, and the outside nut slightly loose, do up the compression
nut. Then, keeping the grippers in place, tighten the outside nut
onto the tank. This needs to be done before the silicone cures.

Strictly, silicone shouldn't be necessary, but I prefer belt and
braces. Certainly try to avoid disturbing the connector afterwards,

One important thing is to make sure that you position this cold feed
for the shower at a level on the tank below that for the hot water
feed to the cylinder. That way, if the tank empties for any reason,
the water goes cold rather than hot.

If the HW feed pipe is already low, then make it the shower one, and
put a new connector at a higher point for the HW.



Also, as it's only a 15mm connector (it will only be used for the shower), I
haven't seen a holesaw that will make a small enough hole. The tank is
plastic - will a flat wood drill bit work, or will it result in me having to
buy a new cistern?

You don't want to risk a spade bit for this. It's something that
you might get away with, but the consequences of not doing so will be
tearful. There is a high risk of tearing an odd shaped hole.

You can get tank cutters from B&Q etc. I prefer the type that have
thick metal cutters that screw onto a mandrel, rather than the cheap
ones with springy steel concentric cutters - the former are far more
accurate. Either you can buy a set of these cutters in a box, or
individually. The size will be a bit bigger than 15mm for the tank
connector, though, so I would measure it carefully.

One final question. Is the distance short? If not, then 22mm
rather than 15mm for hot and cold could be better









TIA,
Andy


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 11:38:05 +0000 (UTC), "AndyP"

I need to take a new feed from my cold water cistern in the loft in order
to
hook up a power shower so I've bought a tank connector from Wickes. It
didn't come with any washers, which I assume I need. Is this correct? If
so,
what sort - they sell all kinds, leather, rubber etc (I am still talking
about Wickes here by the way). I assume I need to use PTFE on the thread
of
the connector. Is it also worth using some kind of sealant (silicone,
plumbers mait, etc) to ensure a bombproof seal?

I assume it's a brass one?

If so, it should have a flat flexible washer with it - normally black.

You don't need PTFE tape on it. Generally what I do is to put some
silicone sealer on the flange and insert into the hole, together with
the washer, some silicone one the outside and then the nut.


That's great, thanks for the advice.

When it comes to tasks like this, is it better to use silicone or plumbers
mait? I've got some of both - the silicone (from Wickes) says it's not
suitable for permanent submersion it water. Is this just because I've bought
the cheap stuff, or is this normal?

I've got some leather washers - will they do the job? What's the difference
between leather ones and rubber ones?


Also, as it's only a 15mm connector (it will only be used for the
shower), I
haven't seen a holesaw that will make a small enough hole. The tank is
plastic - will a flat wood drill bit work, or will it result in me having
to
buy a new cistern?

You don't want to risk a spade bit for this. It's something that
you might get away with, but the consequences of not doing so will be
tearful. There is a high risk of tearing an odd shaped hole.

You can get tank cutters from B&Q etc. I prefer the type that have
thick metal cutters that screw onto a mandrel, rather than the cheap
ones with springy steel concentric cutters - the former are far more
accurate. Either you can buy a set of these cutters in a box, or
individually. The size will be a bit bigger than 15mm for the tank
connector, though, so I would measure it carefully.

One final question. Is the distance short? If not, then 22mm
rather than 15mm for hot and cold could be better


The distance is fairly short - basically the tank is more or less directly
over the airing cupboard, so the pipe will go down there, then straight
through the wall into the back of the shower. Probably not more than about
1.5m.

Thanks
Andy

On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 16:02:40 +0000 (UTC), "AndyP"
wrote:


That's great, thanks for the advice.

When it comes to tasks like this, is it better to use silicone or plumbers
mait? I've got some of both - the silicone (from Wickes) says it's not
suitable for permanent submersion it water. Is this just because I've bought
the cheap stuff, or is this normal?

It may be acrylic sealer rather than silicone. Silicone sealer gives
off a smell of acetic acid as it cures. I would use this rather than
plumber's mait.


I've got some leather washers - will they do the job? What's the difference
between leather ones and rubber ones?


They may be, but I've always used the rubber ones because they came
with tank connectors that I've bought.



The distance is fairly short - basically the tank is more or less directly
over the airing cupboard, so the pipe will go down there, then straight
through the wall into the back of the shower. Probably not more than about
1.5m.


Should be OK.



..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"AndyP" wrote in message
...
I need to take a new feed from my cold water cistern in the loft in order
to
hook up a power shower so I've bought a tank connector from Wickes. It
didn't come with any washers, which I assume I need. Is this correct? If
so,
what sort - they sell all kinds, leather, rubber etc (I am still talking
about Wickes here by the way). I assume I need to use PTFE on the thread
of
the connector. Is it also worth using some kind of sealant (silicone,
plumbers mait, etc) to ensure a bombproof seal?

Also, as it's only a 15mm connector (it will only be used for the shower),
I
haven't seen a holesaw that will make a small enough hole. The tank is
plastic - will a flat wood drill bit work, or will it result in me having
to
buy a new cistern?

Also watch that not too much force from the pipe work and pipe work moving
is applied to the tank connector. In my last house the connecting pipe
"jumped/moved" when the power shower was turned on and off and over time
split the tank very slighty leading to the tank emptying out into the loft
whilst on holiday.... Not nice to come back to.