I am aware of the expanging foam in a can for filling gaps.

Is there any equivalent product for covering flat areas?

I only want 2-3sq feet, so is it a case of using the gap filler version and
spreading it?

Bob

Bob Smith (UK) wrote:
I am aware of the expanging foam in a can for filling gaps.

Is there any equivalent product for covering flat areas?

You can certainly hire equipment for doing this on a large scale, but
I'm not aware of any small scale diy versions.


I only want 2-3sq feet, so is it a case of using the gap filler version and
spreading it?

Don't even try this - it's very messy, and all you end up with is a
lumpy mess. BTDT.

Something which does sort of work, but takes some experimentation, is
making a spray nozzle for the standard gap filling cartridges. You need
quite a small orifice, but big enough to allow a reasonable flow of foam.

--
Grunff

"Grunff" wrote in message
...
Bob Smith (UK) wrote:
I am aware of the expanging foam in a can for filling gaps.

Is there any equivalent product for covering flat areas?

You can certainly hire equipment for doing this on a large scale, but
I'm not aware of any small scale diy versions.


I only want 2-3sq feet, so is it a case of using the gap filler version
and
spreading it?

Don't even try this - it's very messy, and all you end up with is a
lumpy mess. BTDT.

Something which does sort of work, but takes some experimentation, is
making a spray nozzle for the standard gap filling cartridges. You need
quite a small orifice, but big enough to allow a reasonable flow of foam.

--
Grunff

What are you trying to achieve and perhaps others can advise a different
method?

CM.

On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 10:03:27 +0100, Bob Smith \(UK\) wrote:

Is there any equivalent product for covering flat areas?

I only want 2-3sq feet, so is it a case of using the gap filler
version and spreading it?

You'll never manage to spread it, at least not well enough to avoid a
model of the Himalaya. The stuff is stickier than the stickest stuff
you have ever encountered.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

In article , ""Bob Smith
\(UK\)" " "Bob Smith \(UK\)" says...
I am aware of the expanging foam in a can for filling gaps.

Is there any equivalent product for covering flat areas?

I only want 2-3sq feet, so is it a case of using the gap filler version and
spreading it?

Could you box the surface that you want to coat, and line the box with
something that can stay in place, then just use the injectable foam to
fill it?

On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 16:56:05 +0100, Rob Morley wrote:

In article , ""Bob Smith
\(UK\)" " "Bob Smith \(UK\)" says...
I am aware of the expanging foam in a can for filling gaps.

Is there any equivalent product for covering flat areas?

I only want 2-3sq feet, so is it a case of using the gap filler version and
spreading it?

Could you box the surface that you want to coat, and line the box with
something that can stay in place, then just use the injectable foam to
fill it?

...or just use a flat sheet, e.g. an offcut of Celotex roofing panel ?

"Bob Smith (UK)" wrote in message
...
I am aware of the expanging foam in a can for filling gaps.

Is there any equivalent product for covering flat areas?

I only want 2-3sq feet, so is it a case of using the gap filler version
and
spreading it?

If you wanted a lot bigger then a Foamseal 200 kit comes with a nozzle that
does allow this to be done to a reasonable degree. Unfortunately the 200
stands for 200 square feet :-(

What are you trying to achieve and perhaps others can advise a different
method?

CM.


The electric meter cupboard really mouldy, because it has 2 external walls
(one is 3'x2', the other 3'x6") that get condensation. Ventilating the box
more than it already is (loose fitting doors) would bring more air in there
to be chilled, cuausing it to drop it's load of water. Since there are lots
of boxes and wires all over in there, I thought it would be easier to spray
on a layer of foam than to use polystyrene sheets.

Bob

"Grunff" wrote in message
...
Bob Smith (UK) wrote:
I am aware of the expanging foam in a can for filling gaps.

Is there any equivalent product for covering flat areas?

You can certainly hire equipment for doing this on a large scale, but
I'm not aware of any small scale diy versions.


I only want 2-3sq feet, so is it a case of using the gap filler version
and
spreading it?

Don't even try this - it's very messy, and all you end up with is a
lumpy mess. BTDT.

Something which does sort of work, but takes some experimentation, is
making a spray nozzle for the standard gap filling cartridges. You need
quite a small orifice, but big enough to allow a reasonable flow of foam.

--
Grunff

Would just sticking a hairspray / paint can nozzle on there do it, or does
it need to be bigger for a thicker liquid?

Bob

Bob Smith (UK) wrote:

Would just sticking a hairspray / paint can nozzle on there do it, or does
it need to be bigger for a thicker liquid?

I used an old nozzle but had to drill out the hole a bit.

Having read what you want to use it for, i'd definitely advise against.
Sheet is much easier.

--
Grunff

In article , ""Bob Smith
\(UK\)" " "Bob Smith \(UK\)" says...


What are you trying to achieve and perhaps others can advise a different
method?

CM.


The electric meter cupboard really mouldy, because it has 2 external walls
(one is 3'x2', the other 3'x6") that get condensation. Ventilating the box
more than it already is (loose fitting doors) would bring more air in there
to be chilled, cuausing it to drop it's load of water. Since there are lots
of boxes and wires all over in there, I thought it would be easier to spray
on a layer of foam than to use polystyrene sheets.

How about ventilating it to the outside?

"Rob Morley" wrote in message
...
In article , ""Bob Smith
\(UK\)" " "Bob Smith \(UK\)" says...


What are you trying to achieve and perhaps others can advise a
different
method?

CM.


The electric meter cupboard really mouldy, because it has 2 external
walls
(one is 3'x2', the other 3'x6") that get condensation. Ventilating the
box
more than it already is (loose fitting doors) would bring more air in
there
to be chilled, cuausing it to drop it's load of water. Since there are
lots
of boxes and wires all over in there, I thought it would be easier to
spray
on a layer of foam than to use polystyrene sheets.

How about ventilating it to the outside?

I would have to insulate the remaining 3 faces to avoid getting condensation
on the outside (the living space side) of the cupboard. It would be easier
though, since there are no wires or boxes on these faces. I would also have
to seal the doors too.

Bob

"Grunff" wrote in message
...
Bob Smith (UK) wrote:

Would just sticking a hairspray / paint can nozzle on there do it, or
does
it need to be bigger for a thicker liquid?

I used an old nozzle but had to drill out the hole a bit.

Having read what you want to use it for, i'd definitely advise against.
Sheet is much easier.

--
Grunff

OK, I will use sheet.

I assume I need to leave the wires accesible? I don't want to disturb
anything. If I sheet as much as possible, and use filler foam for the gaps,
that might do it(as long as the wires are visible right?). If I leave a gap
to the sides of the wires, will I still get mould growing in the gaps?

Another prob, apart from the boxes and wires being in the way, is that it
isn't plastered properly, so the foam sheet would only be stuck on peaks
with air gaps behind it.

I will need filler anyway, since the meter and fuse box are mounted on
chipboard, stood off from the wall on blocks half an inch thick. I was
thinking of going around the perimeter behind these with the filler foam.

Bob

"Grunff" wrote in message
...
Bob Smith (UK) wrote:

OK, I will use sheet.

I assume I need to leave the wires accesible? I don't want to disturb
anything. If I sheet as much as possible, and use filler foam for the
gaps,
that might do it(as long as the wires are visible right?). If I leave a
gap
to the sides of the wires, will I still get mould growing in the gaps?

Yes, but don't foam around the wires!

--
Grunff

Cos it will derate them? What if they have no foam on top of them, ie all
visible, but foam at the sides?

Bob

Bob Smith (UK) wrote:

OK, I will use sheet.

I assume I need to leave the wires accesible? I don't want to disturb
anything. If I sheet as much as possible, and use filler foam for the gaps,
that might do it(as long as the wires are visible right?). If I leave a gap
to the sides of the wires, will I still get mould growing in the gaps?

Yes, but don't foam around the wires!

--
Grunff

Bob Smith (UK) wrote:

Cos it will derate them? What if they have no foam on top of them, ie all
visible, but foam at the sides?

Not just that, also:
1. Some foams leech plasticiser from PVC, making it brittle.
2. It'll make it difficult to remove them in future.

--
Grunff

In article , ""Bob Smith
\(UK\)" " "Bob Smith \(UK\)" says...

"Rob Morley" wrote in message
...
In article , ""Bob Smith
\(UK\)" " "Bob Smith \(UK\)" says...


What are you trying to achieve and perhaps others can advise a
different
method?

CM.


The electric meter cupboard really mouldy, because it has 2 external
walls
(one is 3'x2', the other 3'x6") that get condensation. Ventilating the
box
more than it already is (loose fitting doors) would bring more air in
there
to be chilled, cuausing it to drop it's load of water. Since there are
lots
of boxes and wires all over in there, I thought it would be easier to
spray
on a layer of foam than to use polystyrene sheets.

How about ventilating it to the outside?

I would have to insulate the remaining 3 faces to avoid getting condensation
on the outside (the living space side) of the cupboard. It would be easier
though, since there are no wires or boxes on these faces.

That's what I was thinking.

I would also have to seal the doors too.

Wouldn't adhesive foam strip would be enough for that?

"Grunff" wrote in message
...
Bob Smith (UK) wrote:

Cos it will derate them? What if they have no foam on top of them, ie
all
visible, but foam at the sides?

Not just that, also:
1. Some foams leech plasticiser from PVC, making it brittle.
2. It'll make it difficult to remove them in future.

--
Grunff

Thanks for the heads up. I will use sheet as close to the wires as I can,
and jam cotton wool down the sides in future if they get damp there. I will
squirt foam around under the standoff bits, and the 2" strip of "andes"
plastering along the top of the box.

Might even make it a usable space for dumping junk.

Bob

"Grunff" wrote in message
...

1. Some foams leech plasticiser from PVC, making it brittle.

Are you sure that's still the case ? Seen a lot of instances with this and
never seen a brittle cable.

G&M wrote:

1. Some foams leech plasticiser from PVC, making it brittle.


Are you sure that's still the case ? Seen a lot of instances with this and
never seen a brittle cable.

It is the case with polystyrene, but may not be with polyurethane.

When the first 'diy' versions of polyurethane foam came out, some
carried warnings about plasticiser leeching. These days they don't seem
to - so maybe PU foam doesn't/never did? Don't know. But enough doubt
for me not to risk it on mains cables.

--
Grunff