Can't find any online resource that gives a step by step guide to this. I
guess flexible tap connectors and waste pipes allow you to make plumbing
connections with the base unit away from the wall but, if anyone has done
this recently, I'd appreciate some advice.
TIA

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
stuart noble wrote:

Can't find any online resource that gives a step by step guide to
this. I guess flexible tap connectors and waste pipes allow you to
make plumbing connections with the base unit away from the wall but,
if anyone has done this recently, I'd appreciate some advice.
TIA

You can certainly make some of the connections with the base unit away from
the wall - for example, extending the tap connections down to somewhere
where you can get at them more easily once the base unit is in position.

Unless your sink is fairly rigid, I would caution against the use of
flexible pipes. Rigid pipes going down from the taps, and strapped to
something structural, help to give the whole thing a much more solid feel.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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Set Square wrote in message ...
You can certainly make some of the connections with the base unit away from
the wall - for example, extending the tap connections down to somewhere
where you can get at them more easily once the base unit is in position.

But where would that be exactly? With the backing board and the sink in
position it looks to me as though you have no access to the pipework, which
comes straight up from the floor. Also, with an inset sink and a long work
surface, the whole assembly would have to be shifted away from the wall to
make the tap connections.
If the taps are attached to the sink and the flexible connectors to the hot
and cold feeds so that the combined length of pipe is 3-4" longer than you
need , maybe that gives you room to make the connections and you can then
just lower the sink into the cut out without the flexible bits getting
kinked. Dunno. Anyone done it?

In article , stuart noble
writes

Set Square wrote in message ...
You can certainly make some of the connections with the base unit away from
the wall - for example, extending the tap connections down to somewhere
where you can get at them more easily once the base unit is in position.

But where would that be exactly? With the backing board and the sink in
position it looks to me as though you have no access to the pipework, which
comes straight up from the floor. Also, with an inset sink and a long work
surface, the whole assembly would have to be shifted away from the wall to
make the tap connections.
If the taps are attached to the sink and the flexible connectors to the hot
and cold feeds so that the combined length of pipe is 3-4" longer than you
need , maybe that gives you room to make the connections and you can then
just lower the sink into the cut out without the flexible bits getting
kinked. Dunno. Anyone done it?

I left out the back board in the unit with the sink on it, and plumbed
it in after the unit & worktop was fixed. This cupboard is always full
of cleaning stuff, you don't notice that it goes right back to the wall
and has a load of pipework at the back.

I would second what Set Square said about not using flexible connectors
to the tap, it will be very twangy if you do.
--
Tim Mitchell

Tim Mitchell wrote in message ...
I left out the back board in the unit with the sink on it, and plumbed
it in after the unit & worktop was fixed. This cupboard is always full
of cleaning stuff, you don't notice that it goes right back to the wall
and has a load of pipework at the back.
Oh, that's cheating! I did one that way once and put battens in so that the
backing board could be screwed from the front, but feeding the waste pipe
through was a bitch IIRC.

I would second what Set Square said about not using flexible connectors
to the tap, it will be very twangy if you do.
Providing the rigid part of the pipework is bracketed to the wall, I can't
see that 300mm of flexi at the top is going to matter. All taps seem to come
with this type of connection now, so presumably it's the norm.
Looking at the existing solid copper setup I fail to see how anyone could
get a spanner up behind the sink, so I must be missing something.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
stuart noble wrote:


I would second what Set Square said about not using flexible
connectors to the tap, it will be very twangy if you do.
Providing the rigid part of the pipework is bracketed to the wall, I
can't see that 300mm of flexi at the top is going to matter. All taps
seem to come with this type of connection now, so presumably it's the
norm.

I was thinking in particular of my utility room, where I have a stainless
steel sink of rather light gauge, and separate pillar taps (not a mixer).
For convenience I piped it all in plastic piping - with the result that the
pipes contribute nothing to the rigidity of the whole thing - and the taps
flap about more than somewhat! Had I used rigid pipes, and strapped them to
the wall or casing, it would all have been much firmer.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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In article , stuart noble
writes

Tim Mitchell wrote in message ...
I left out the back board in the unit with the sink on it, and plumbed
it in after the unit & worktop was fixed. This cupboard is always full
of cleaning stuff, you don't notice that it goes right back to the wall
and has a load of pipework at the back.
Oh, that's cheating! I did one that way once and put battens in so that the
backing board could be screwed from the front, but feeding the waste pipe
through was a bitch IIRC.

I would second what Set Square said about not using flexible connectors
to the tap, it will be very twangy if you do.
Providing the rigid part of the pipework is bracketed to the wall, I can't
see that 300mm of flexi at the top is going to matter. All taps seem to come
with this type of connection now, so presumably it's the norm.
Looking at the existing solid copper setup I fail to see how anyone could
get a spanner up behind the sink, so I must be missing something.

My taps had 10mm (?) rigid tails about 300mm long, so the connections
were not up behind the sink.
--
Tim Mitchell

"stuart noble" wrote in message
...
.... snipped
Looking at the existing solid copper setup I fail to see how anyone could
get a spanner up behind the sink, so I must be missing something.

You're missing a basin spanner. A cunningly cranked, double ended spanner
that is used vertically behind the bowl.

Dave S

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Dave wrote:

"stuart noble" wrote in message
...
... snipped
Looking at the existing solid copper setup I fail to see how anyone
could get a spanner up behind the sink, so I must be missing
something.

You're missing a basin spanner. A cunningly cranked, double ended
spanner that is used vertically behind the bowl.

Dave S

Like this one? http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...47751&id=13294
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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"Tim Mitchell" wrote in message
...
In article , stuart noble
writes

Tim Mitchell wrote in message ...
I left out the back board in the unit with the sink on it, and plumbed
it in after the unit & worktop was fixed. This cupboard is always full
of cleaning stuff, you don't notice that it goes right back to the wall
and has a load of pipework at the back.
Oh, that's cheating! I did one that way once and put battens in so that
the
backing board could be screwed from the front, but feeding the waste pipe
through was a bitch IIRC.

I would second what Set Square said about not using flexible connectors
to the tap, it will be very twangy if you do.
Providing the rigid part of the pipework is bracketed to the wall, I
can't
see that 300mm of flexi at the top is going to matter. All taps seem to
come
with this type of connection now, so presumably it's the norm.
Looking at the existing solid copper setup I fail to see how anyone could
get a spanner up behind the sink, so I must be missing something.

My taps had 10mm (?) rigid tails about 300mm long, so the connections
were not up behind the sink.

same here (15mm though shrinking to about 10mm at the tap body) - and when
screwed in to the tap body were touching which seemed an odd design as it
makes connecting to them without bending a bit tricker (I used solder
elbows, I dont think you could use compression joints without bending the
pipes). I was quite surprised that these tails didnt have to be done up
tight to be watertight - they have o-rings behind the thread which must be
sealing against the tap body but I thought mains pressure water would have
worked past without it being tight?

Tim Mitchell wrote in message ...
My taps had 10mm (?) rigid tails about 300mm long, so the connections
were not up behind the sink.
But they would have been behind the backing board if you'd used one. I'm
sure flexi connectors have made this job easy, but the exact procedure would
be handy. I guess the height of the rigid pipes would be crucial, and
possibly they should be offset a little to allow the flexi bits to flex in
an orderly fashion when the sink is lowered.

Set Square wrote in message ...
You're missing a basin spanner. A cunningly cranked, double ended
spanner that is used vertically behind the bowl.

Dave S

Like this one?
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...47751&id=13294

No, got one of those somewhere, and there's nothing cunning about it.
14631, adjustable basin wrench, looks more the ticket but for the moment I'm
going the flexi route. I'm paranoid enough when I can see the joint, but
doing it blind would not fill me with confidence.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
a wrote:

My taps had 10mm (?) rigid tails about 300mm long, so the connections
were not up behind the sink.

same here (15mm though shrinking to about 10mm at the tap body) - and
when screwed in to the tap body were touching which seemed an odd
design as it makes connecting to them without bending a bit tricker
(I used solder elbows, I dont think you could use compression joints
without bending the pipes).

They're usually made of fairly soft (annealed?) copper so that, once you
have screwed them in, you can bend them apart a bit to make it easier to get
the fittings on.

It's probably fun if you ever need to unscrew them!
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
stuart noble wrote:

Set Square wrote in message ...
You're missing a basin spanner. A cunningly cranked, double ended
spanner that is used vertically behind the bowl.

Dave S

Like this one?
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...47751&id=13294

No, got one of those somewhere, and there's nothing cunning about it.
14631, adjustable basin wrench, looks more the ticket but for the
moment I'm going the flexi route. I'm paranoid enough when I can see
the joint, but doing it blind would not fill me with confidence.

Sounds like a good application for push-fit, then!

--
Cheers,
Set Square
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