I've tried using both International water based Radiator Paint and
ICI's Dulux "Realife Tough Satin" in brilliant white. Both are
reassuringly white and delightfully smell free, but dry before the
brush marks have disappeaed.

I have no problem with brush marks in either Gloss or Satin (my
preference) paint finishes. I guess that the problem with water
based paints is that they dry before surface tension has enough
time to force an even surface.

I guess that only painting during rainstorms or when boiling a
kettle might help, but I'd be grateful for other suggestions. I
realise that a foam roller would probably give a better finish on
a flat surface, but radiators and other items I want to paint, are
far from flat.

Will I have problems if I rub down the water based paint and recoat
it with conventional Satinwood? (I'm thinking of the sort of
disasters you get if you try and paint Finnegan's Hammerite over
oil based paint

--
Jan

"Jan Wysocki" jan@home wrote in message
...
I've tried using both International water based Radiator Paint and
ICI's Dulux "Realife Tough Satin" in brilliant white. Both are
reassuringly white and delightfully smell free, but dry before the
brush marks have disappeaed.

I have no problem with brush marks in either Gloss or Satin (my
preference) paint finishes. I guess that the problem with water
based paints is that they dry before surface tension has enough
time to force an even surface.

I guess that only painting during rainstorms or when boiling a
kettle might help, but I'd be grateful for other suggestions. I
realise that a foam roller would probably give a better finish on
a flat surface, but radiators and other items I want to paint, are
far from flat.

Will I have problems if I rub down the water based paint and recoat
it with conventional Satinwood? (I'm thinking of the sort of
disasters you get if you try and paint Finnegan's Hammerite over
oil based paint

--
Jan

You answer your own question. Use solvent based paints. And no, you
shouldn't have any great prob overcoating with solvent based Satinwood.
Personally I find the Dulux trade paints better than the shed stuff but that
might just be a perception.

HTH

I've tried using both International water based Radiator Paint and
ICI's Dulux "Realife Tough Satin" in brilliant white. Both are
reassuringly white and delightfully smell free, but dry before the
brush marks have disappeaed.

Try using a mini-roller

"Paper2002AD" wrote in message
...
I've tried using both International water based Radiator Paint and
ICI's Dulux "Realife Tough Satin" in brilliant white. Both are
reassuringly white and delightfully smell free, but dry before the
brush marks have disappeaed.

Try using a mini-roller

for a large flat surface I'd agree with you (for the best finish, I've found
that laying on with a mini gloss roller followed by laying off with a good
quality 2" brush works well), but for a radiator I'm not sure there's much
advantage.

I'd go for a decent oil-based trade eggshell. They're delightful to paint
with.


--
Richard Sampson

mail me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk

"TonyK" wrote in message


"Jan Wysocki" jan@home wrote in message
...
I've tried using both International water based Radiator Paint and
ICI's Dulux "Realife Tough Satin" in brilliant white. Both are
reassuringly white and delightfully smell free, but dry before the
brush marks have disappeaed.

You answer your own question. Use solvent based paints. And no, you
shouldn't have any great prob overcoating with solvent based Satinwood.

I can't understand how a waterbased paint will work on a radiator. Shows
what I know though.

Brushed paint or any other brushed on application leaves a very thin and
uneven layer compared to roller or spray. You could try brushing in a
variety of directions. Apply the paint left to right then spread out up
and down and follow up with a second coat applied diagonally in one
direction then brushing it out again at 90 degrees to the application
stroke.

Then sand it down lightly and give it a coat of oil based finish.


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

In message , TonyK
writes

Personally I find the Dulux trade paints better than the shed stuff but that
might just be a perception.

Not necessarily, according to the Dulux website their 'Trade' paints are
of a slightly different composition - main difference it says is that
many pro's like to thin the paint a bit so it is mad with that in mind -
whereas the consumer stuff is made with being used straight.

Certainly their trade emulsion seems to take more diluting that the shed
stuff - though I only dilute for doing bare plaster.

--
Chris French, Leeds

"chris French" wrote in message
...
In message , TonyK
writes

Personally I find the Dulux trade paints better than the shed stuff but
that
might just be a perception.

Not necessarily, according to the Dulux website their 'Trade' paints are
of a slightly different composition - main difference it says is that
many pro's like to thin the paint a bit so it is mad with that in mind -
whereas the consumer stuff is made with being used straight.

Certainly their trade emulsion seems to take more diluting that the shed
stuff - though I only dilute for doing bare plaster.

--
Chris French, Leeds

Makes sense. I certainly find their trade solvent paints far more workable
than shed stuff. Prob. find the VOCs are hihgher and maybe have a longer
drying time (16hrs for trade Satinwood)