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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Hi
I ahve a Glow worm Swift Flow 100E combi boliler that is driving me nuts. The problem manifests itself as a problem with supplying hot water to the shower. It seems to heat the water well initially and provides an adequate flow of water to have a comfortable shower but then after a minute or two of running the water will go cold for 20 seconds or so before getting hot again. It is not caused by any of the normal suspects such as somebody turning a tap on or the dishwasher/washing machine switching on as these are all off. Nor is it the thermostatic valve in the shower unit as I can feel that the supply to the valve is absolutely stone cold. I thought it may be caused by the central heating demanding heat but even with the CH turned off the problem remains. I don't have any form of manual for the boiler which doesn't help (anybody know where I can get one in electronic form?) but is there perhaps an water overheat thermostat that is faulty somewhere in the system? Any suggestions welcome as I am getting hacked off with dancing in and out of the shower as the temp fluctuates. -- Take out the garbage to reply Regards Tony Hogarty |
#2
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![]() "Tony Hogarty" wrote in message ... Hi I ahve a Glow worm Swift Flow 100E combi boliler that is driving me nuts. The problem manifests itself as a problem with supplying hot water to the shower. It seems to heat the water well initially and provides an adequate flow of water to have a comfortable shower but then after a minute or two of running the water will go cold for 20 seconds or so before getting hot again. It is not caused by any of the normal suspects such as somebody turning a tap on or the dishwasher/washing machine switching on as these are all off. Nor is it the thermostatic valve in the shower unit as I can feel that the supply to the valve is absolutely stone cold. I thought it may be caused by the central heating demanding heat but even with the CH turned off the problem remains. Does this occur when filling the bath? If not then it appears the shower is the culprit. I generally don't like thermostatic mixers with combi's. The pressure balanced showers are best. I don't have any form of manual for the boiler which doesn't help (anybody know where I can get one in electronic form?) but is there perhaps an water overheat thermostat that is faulty somewhere in the system? Any suggestions welcome as I am getting hacked off with dancing in and out of the shower as the temp fluctuates. -- Take out the garbage to reply Regards Tony Hogarty |
#3
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water to the shower. It seems to heat the water well initially and
provides an adequate flow of water to have a comfortable shower but then after a minute or two of running the water will go cold for 20 seconds or so before getting hot again. This can happen if your combi isn't modulating properly, (or is a non-modulating type). What happens is that the temperature rises and rises until the main boiler thermostat kicks in and turns off the burner until it reduces again. It takes a good 20 seconds to relight the boiler when the temperature recovers (which will be almost immediately). If the boiler is non-modulating, then your only hope is to increase the water flow. This might be achieved by installing a wider bore hose on the shower or a power shower head with larger holes. You could experiment by leaving a basin hot tap on slightly to see if it cures the problem. Christian. |
#4
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"Tony Hogarty" wrote in message
... Hi I ahve a Glow worm Swift Flow 100E combi boliler I don't have any form of manual for the boiler which doesn't help (anybody know where I can get one in electronic form?) There's no literature available (and a search produced no results) for "swift flow" on the Glow worm site. However "100E" produced this. Dunno whether its what you were looking for however :-) http://www.glow-worm.co.uk/epower/gw...ct100E_UIS.pdf -- Reply address is spamtrapped. Remove theobvious for valid e-mail address |
#5
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Paul King wrote:
"Tony Hogarty" wrote in message ... Hi I ahve a Glow worm Swift Flow 100E combi boliler I don't have any form of manual for the boiler which doesn't help (anybody know where I can get one in electronic form?) There's no literature available (and a search produced no results) for "swift flow" on the Glow worm site. However "100E" produced this. Dunno whether its what you were looking for however :-) http://www.glow-worm.co.uk/epower/gw...df/nc_products Compact100E_UIS.pdf It is certainly very similar thanks. I'll have a more detailed look in the morning and see exactly how close it is - the controls are different but the physiacal layout of the boiler looks close on first impressions. -- Take out the garbage to reply Regards Tony Hogarty |
#6
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On Tue, 09 Mar 2004 15:32:46 +0000, Christian McArdle wrote:
water to the shower. It seems to heat the water well initially and provides an adequate flow of water to have a comfortable shower but then after a minute or two of running the water will go cold for 20 seconds or so before getting hot again. This can happen if your combi isn't modulating properly, (or is a non-modulating type). What happens is that the temperature rises and rises until the main boiler thermostat kicks in and turns off the burner until it reduces again. It takes a good 20 seconds to relight the boiler when the temperature recovers (which will be almost immediately). If the boiler is non-modulating, then your only hope is to increase the water flow. This might be achieved by installing a wider bore hose on the shower or a power shower head with larger holes. You could experiment by leaving a basin hot tap on slightly to see if it cures the problem. IME this problem most likely (there are several possible causes) is caused by limescale build up on the DHW side of the secondary heat exchanger. The boiler simply can't transfer enough heat without over heating so it shuts down temporarily. Other causes a Out of calibration temperature sensors. Gas valve modulation control faulty. Too little flow of HW (but enough to start the boiler). A work around which may help is to turn down the HW thermostat (assuming this is distinct from the CH thermostat). This may help to bring the boiler into a steadier state, until the real cause can be tackled. -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html |
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