In article ,
Brett Jackson wrote:
What is the make / model? There are loads of scrap yards on-line
nowadays.
http://google.find-a-part.com/ has always worked for me in the past.

I've used that service in the past too and have been very impressed. As
I remeber you fill in a form and then over about 2-3 days various
scrappies who have the part phone you up and give you a quote. Cheapest
one wins.

Not too impressed so far. Filled in the form giving an accurate
discription, and got four emails all from the same source asking me to
phone their mobile . Which I did. They don't have one the right colour,
and were asking more than a new unpainted one for those they have.

--
*Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Owain" wrote in message
...
":::Jerry::::" wrote
| FFS, he would still have to match the paint, that is the real
| problem here, not finding the handle (Dave has already said
| that), with colour variations and fading etc. even if he got
| the a S/H handle painted in the correct paint
| code there is little chance of it matching.

Why not get a set of replacement handles from the scrappie in a
contrasting
colour.

(A matching bonnet and boot and some burberry seat-covers would complete
the
urban ned look.)

What's an urban ned?

Mary

Owain

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
Brett Jackson wrote:
There are loads of scrap yards on-line nowadays.
http://google.find-a-part.com/ has always worked for me in
the past.
Not too impressed so far. Filled in the form giving an accurate
discription, and got four emails all from the same source asking
me to phone their mobile . Which I did. They don't have one the
right colour, and were asking more than a new unpainted one for
those they have.

I have used http://www.1stchoice.co.uk/index.aspx, they have
been around for a while. I was very, very impressed with the
service. Give 'em a whirl & see if it works for you. I have
never been asked to call anyone back - on the occasions I
have used them, I have had several calls within 20 minutes
in general.


J.B.

:::Jerry:::: wrote:
[ scrapyard handle ]
FFS, he would still have to match the paint, that is the real
problem here, [ snip ] even if he got the a S/H handle painted
in the correct paint code there is little chance of it matching.

Why, and why "FFS"? If a second-hand one with the correct paint
on it won't match, then neither will a new one.


J.B.

On Thu, 09 Sep 2004 17:52:56 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:


And I thought they glued planes together...;-)

No, that's what black bodge tape is for.

--
Peter Parry.
http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/

"Jerry Built" wrote in message
...
:::Jerry:::: wrote:
[ scrapyard handle ]
FFS, he would still have to match the paint, that is the real
problem here, [ snip ] even if he got the a S/H handle painted
in the correct paint code there is little chance of it matching.

Why, and why "FFS"? If a second-hand one with the correct paint
on it won't match, then neither will a new one.


FFS they come unpainted and then the colour is 'colour matched' by the paint
supplier or sprayer, just like most other car bodywork. If you are correct I
must have been imagining working with paint sprayers all these years !

Get a clue :~(

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
The exterior handle on my car has broken off. It's a flush fitting lift up
type about 4" long. It appears to be made of 'pot' metal.

How about soldering it?

--
Grunff

In article ,
Grunff wrote:
The exterior handle on my car has broken off. It's a flush fitting
lift up type about 4" long. It appears to be made of 'pot' metal.

How about soldering it?

I'd say because of the size it would have to be tinned then sweated
together. And I don't think the paint would survive that.

--
*I almost had a psychic girlfriend but she left me before we met *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Huge wrote:
What's an urban ned?

http://www.chavscum.co.uk

I'm surprised at you plugging a site that as badly written as
that, Huge. ;-)

--
*The more people I meet, the more I like my dog.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ...
The exterior handle on my car has broken off. It's a flush fitting lift up
type about 4" long. It appears to be made of 'pot' metal.

A new assembly isn't too expensive, but doesn't come ready painted - it's
colour coordinated with the body. And having it painted triples the
price...

The clean break is near enough a straight line along the entire length.
What would be the chances of repairing it with epoxy etc - and if so which
one?

Why not paint a new one yourself? A few coats of lacquer on top, cut
back and job done.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

If the car is that new, get a replacement under warranty, if its that
old, get one from a acrappie,


Read the other posts on the subject.


If its the wrong colour., get it painted you cheapskate. Or live with
it. Or get a decent insurance policy.


All of which involve aggravation. I'd rather DIY - strange given the name
of the group.

You got car insurance which covers things breaking? And you'd claim for
around 100 pounds? Get real.

If its only 100 quids why all the fuss?

Huge wrote:

Grunff writes:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The exterior handle on my car has broken off. It's a flush fitting lift up
type about 4" long. It appears to be made of 'pot' metal.

How about soldering it?


You can't solder Mazak.


well you can actually, tho possibly not with standard soldering irons.

":::Jerry::::" wrote in message ...



FFS, he would still have to match the paint, that is the real problem here,
not finding the handle (Dave has already said that), with colour variations
and fading etc. even if he got the a S/H handle painted in the correct paint
code there is little chance of it matching.

I doubt that the paint on the handle exactly matches the rest of the car anyway.

"StealthUK" wrote in message
om...
":::Jerry::::" wrote in message
...



FFS, he would still have to match the paint, that is the real problem
here,
not finding the handle (Dave has already said that), with colour
variations
and fading etc. even if he got the a S/H handle painted in the correct
paint
code there is little chance of it matching.

I doubt that the paint on the handle exactly matches the rest of the car
anyway.

I would be *very* surprised of it didn't and there is NO reason why it
shouldn't, certainly on like a BMW.

Huge wrote:

You can't solder Mazak.

Wanna bet? ;-)

I've never tried, but it's mainly Zinc, no? That should be solderable.

--
Grunff

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
All of which involve aggravation. I'd rather DIY - strange given the name
of the group.

You got car insurance which covers things breaking? And you'd claim for
around 100 pounds? Get real.

If its only 100 quids why all the fuss?

Because I can't get one off the shelf - thought that was obvious. It has
to be ordered, and they want to fit it too - so you can more than double
the 100 quid - plus the aggro of getting the car to the garage and
collecting it afterwards.

You don't own a car? ;-)

--
*Dance like nobody's watching.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I'd say because of the size it would have to be tinned then sweated
together. And I don't think the paint would survive that.

Don't know - I've had good relults soldering large lumps of copper
without getting the whole lump up to temp. And that's /copper/, which
*really* conducts heat.

The paint may or may not survive, but I don't think you have any mileage
in glueing it; it'll last exactly one week then fall apart.


--
Grunff

If you take the door handle to a good local car paint supplier, he will
make you up a spray can of exactly colour matched paint. The cost is
quite low and the colour matching has to be experienced to be believed!

Regards
Capitol

In message , Paul
King writes
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
The exterior handle on my car has broken off. It's a flush fitting lift up
type about 4" long. It appears to be made of 'pot' metal.

A new assembly isn't too expensive, but doesn't come ready painted - it's
colour coordinated with the body. And having it painted triples the
price...

The clean break is near enough a straight line along the entire length.
What would be the chances of repairing it with epoxy etc - and if so which
one?


I'd give JB Weld a try rather than Araldite. a smearing "on the joint faces"
and a good ridge along the rear face. It will take up to 24 hours to cure -
don't use forced heat to speed up the curing time or the joint will be
severely weakened! Bloody good stuff! I repaired a cylinder head with it
years ago and its still going strong!

It's the 21st century- JB Kwik, about 5 minutes

--
geoff

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

All of which involve aggravation. I'd rather DIY - strange given the name
of the group.

You got car insurance which covers things breaking? And you'd claim for
around 100 pounds? Get real.


If its only 100 quids why all the fuss?


Because I can't get one off the shelf - thought that was obvious. It has
to be ordered, and they want to fit it too - so you can more than double
the 100 quid - plus the aggro of getting the car to the garage and
collecting it afterwards.

You don't own a car? ;-)

I own 4 actually, plus the wifes...although only two are currently
street legal. get the *******s to pick it up and give you a courtesy car.

Huge wrote:

Grunff writes:

Huge wrote:


You can't solder Mazak.

Wanna bet? ;-)


Yep.


I've never tried, but it's mainly Zinc, no? That should be solderable.


I have, and I certainly couldn't. The melting point is too close to solder.

Use low temp solder. Site I posted up certainly managed to do it

"StealthUK" wrote in message
om...
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
The exterior handle on my car has broken off. It's a flush fitting lift
up
type about 4" long. It appears to be made of 'pot' metal.

A new assembly isn't too expensive, but doesn't come ready painted -
it's
colour coordinated with the body. And having it painted triples the
price...

The clean break is near enough a straight line along the entire length.
What would be the chances of repairing it with epoxy etc - and if so
which
one?

Why not paint a new one yourself? A few coats of lacquer on top, cut
back and job done.

And who's going to notice if it isn't 100% anyway?

Mary

In message , tony sayer
writes
In article , sPoNiX
writes
On Thu, 09 Sep 2004 14:36:02 GMT, "SteveS"
wrote:


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
The exterior handle on my car has broken off. It's a flush fitting lift up
type about 4" long. It appears to be made of 'pot' metal.

...AKA crapite

aka 'monkey metal'

What exactly is that stuff made of?.....


Mazak: 95% Zn, 4% Al, 1% Cu (typical).

Mazak is encountered as a die-casting alloy. It is a dreadful material
to drill and tap, and its only useful characteristic, apart from
diecasting properties, is that it has a high coefficient of friction and
therefore makes an excellent traction tyre.

Some manufacturers use Mazak for wheels, and such wheels have a bad
reputation for picking up dirt. However, like aluminium and other soft
materials, this only happens when sparking is allowed to occur, as when
an electrically-driven locomotive does not have enough pick-ups.



--
geoff

In message , Huge
writes
Grunff writes:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
The exterior handle on my car has broken off. It's a flush fitting lift up
type about 4" long. It appears to be made of 'pot' metal.

How about soldering it?

You can't solder Mazak.

I'm sure you can, but how strong the solder joint would be is another
question

Wouldn't do the paint finish (which he's trying to maintain) much good
though, would it?

--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...
snip

Mazak: 95% Zn, 4% Al, 1% Cu (typical).

Mazak is encountered as a die-casting alloy. It is a dreadful material
to drill and tap, and its only useful characteristic, apart from
diecasting properties, is that it has a high coefficient of friction and
therefore makes an excellent traction tyre.

Some manufacturers use Mazak for wheels, and such wheels have a bad
reputation for picking up dirt. However, like aluminium and other soft
materials, this only happens when sparking is allowed to occur, as when
an electrically-driven locomotive does not have enough pick-ups.


Going totally OT, that would be why the old Tri-ang toy railway locomotives
of the '50 and early '60 were so awful at running.

Huge wrote:

You can't solder Mazak.

Wanna bet? ;-)


Yep.


You know I'm going to have to try this now, don't you. If I get the
floor tiling done with time to spare, I'll give it a go this weekend
with some low temp solder.

--
Grunff

What's an urban ned?

http://www.chavscum.co.uk

What's a ned, or a chav, for that matter? Non house owner perhaps?

"stuart noble" wrote in message
...

What's an urban ned?

http://www.chavscum.co.uk

What's a ned, or a chav, for that matter? Non house owner perhaps?

I've not heard the words (except that a grandson is called Ned, short for
Edmund).

They don't seem to be acronyms, what's the derivation?

Mary

On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 11:36:18 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:


They don't seem to be acronyms, what's the derivation?

Apparently the word chav has become common in southern England, and
is generally thought to come from "Chatham girls". Similar bits of
the mud from the urban gene pool are called charver (North East),
scalley (Liverpool) , ned (non-educated delinquent), or chor in other
parts of the country.

Some people think the word chav comes originally from the Romany word
chavo (boy), which is also the origin of the Spanish word chaval.
Originally possibly from a Sanskrit word 'chhaapaa' meaning 'young
one',


--
Peter Parry.
http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/

"Peter Parry" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 11:36:18 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:


They don't seem to be acronyms, what's the derivation?

Apparently the word chav has become common in southern England, and
is generally thought to come from "Chatham girls". Similar bits of
the mud from the urban gene pool are called charver (North East),
scalley (Liverpool) , ned (non-educated delinquent), or chor in other
parts of the country.

I'm definitely missing out on these ... although I've heard of scalleys.
Perhaps I'll ask some grandchildren.

Some people think the word chav comes originally from the Romany word
chavo (boy), which is also the origin of the Spanish word chaval.

Since they have the same root that's likely :-)

Originally possibly from a Sanskrit word 'chhaapaa' meaning 'young
one',

The root of all our languages ... thinks ... chap?

Thanks, Peter.

Mary


--
Peter Parry.
http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/

Peter Parry wrote:

On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 11:36:18 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:



They don't seem to be acronyms, what's the derivation?


Apparently the word chav has become common in southern England, and
is generally thought to come from "Chatham girls". Similar bits of
the mud from the urban gene pool are called charver (North East),
scalley (Liverpool) , ned (non-educated delinquent), or chor in other
parts of the country.

Some people think the word chav comes originally from the Romany word
chavo (boy), which is also the origin of the Spanish word chaval.
Originally possibly from a Sanskrit word 'chhaapaa' meaning 'young
one',


As in 'chap' and 'shaver' possibly?

In message , Peter Parry
writes
On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 11:36:18 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:


They don't seem to be acronyms, what's the derivation?

Apparently the word chav has become common in southern England, and
is generally thought to come from "Chatham girls". Similar bits of
the mud from the urban gene pool are called charver (North East),
scalley (Liverpool) , ned (non-educated delinquent), or chor in other
parts of the country.

Some people think the word chav comes originally from the Romany word
chavo (boy), which is also the origin of the Spanish word chaval.
Originally possibly from a Sanskrit word 'chhaapaa' meaning 'young
one',

Not .... Cliff Richard !

If chhaapaa means "young one", then it makes "old chap" sound a bit
nonsensical, doesn't it


--
geoff

In article , The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The exterior handle on my car has broken off. It's a flush fitting lift up
type about 4" long. It appears to be made of 'pot' metal.

A new assembly isn't too expensive, but doesn't come ready painted - it's
colour coordinated with the body. And having it painted triples the
price...

The clean break is near enough a straight line along the entire length.
What would be the chances of repairing it with epoxy etc - and if so which
one?

Not very good. If joint kept under pressure and stoved it might hold,
but its not the sort of thing thats easy to achieve.

OK, perhaps it's time for some d-i-y advice.

To make a good epoxy bond you need:

1 to have clean mating surfaces
Even if you haven't touched the mating surfaces, you should assume
that some grease has already migrated there and thoroughly degrease
the handles. You can use solvents or boil them in detergent
diluted with distilled or deionised water. Make sure that the
pieces are thoroughly rinsed i.e several times, with additional
clean solvent or purified water - you don't want _any_ residues.

2 to mix the epoxy resin thoroughly
Use a _clean_ stick or wire on a _clean- surface e.g. a clean
sheet of tin or polythene to mix the epoxy thoroughly, then use
a new, clean stick to transfer the bulk of the epoxy to a new
surface and mix again (reason: the original mixing stick and
surface will have unmixed epoxy close to their surfaces.)

3 Now coat one surface with as little epoxy as you can!

4 As Dave Plowman says you now need heat and pressure.
A temperature of around 80 - 100 C will reduce the viscosity of
the epoxy and accelerate setting. Pressure is required to get
the bonding surfaces as close together as possible: you're aiming
to get the gap between the surfaces down to molecular proportions.

If you can achieve this then you'll get a bond that may be ten or a
hundred times stronger than a casually made one and it should be
as strong as the surrounding the monkey metal.

--
Meticulous Jan

In message , Paul King
writes
I'd give JB Weld a try rather than Araldite. a smearing "on the joint faces"
and a good ridge along the rear face. It will take up to 24 hours to cure -
don't use forced heat to speed up the curing time or the joint will be
severely weakened! Bloody good stuff! I repaired a cylinder head with it
years ago and its still going strong!

Not if you use JB Kwik - almost as strong and sets in a couple of
minutes, as I said in an earlier post


--
geoff

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article ,
tony sayer wrote:
...AKA crapite

aka 'monkey metal'

What exactly is that stuff made of?.....

Muckite? IIRC it's properly called zinc alloy.


Melted down rovers and sound systems ...


--
geoff

In message , The Natural
Philosopher writes
tony sayer wrote:

In article , sPoNiX
writes

On Thu, 09 Sep 2004 14:36:02 GMT, "SteveS"
wrote:


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...

The exterior handle on my car has broken off. It's a flush fitting lift up
type about 4" long. It appears to be made of 'pot' metal.

...AKA crapite

aka 'monkey metal'
What exactly is that stuff made of?.....
Mezac?

Google it.

I posted it last week

--
geoff