Used for 1st time today although purchased 2 years ago.
If I am holding the chainsaw in front of me with the `chain` pointing
away. So on the righthand side the chain moves away from me, then
coming down the other side the `chain` is moving towards me.
Does it make any difference from a safety point of view which side I cut
with left or right?

My cuts are mostly at waist height and horizontal.

On 12/11/2020 22:27, ss wrote:
Used for 1st time today although purchased 2 years ago.
If I am holding the chainsaw in front of me with the `chain` pointing
away.Â* So on the righthand side the chain moves away from me, then
coming down the other side the `chain` is moving towards me.
Does it make any difference from a safety point of view which side I cut
with left or right?


Youtube is your freind

the following suggests stand to the left.

How to Safely Operate Your Electric Chainsaw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXAKpnyUBpA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9BegDz1Beo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qiA28e9cOk
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On 12/11/2020 22:42, alan_m wrote:
On 12/11/2020 22:27, ss wrote:
Used for 1st time today although purchased 2 years ago.
If I am holding the chainsaw in front of me with the `chain` pointing
away.Â* So on the righthand side the chain moves away from me, then
coming down the other side the `chain` is moving towards me.
Does it make any difference from a safety point of view which side I
cut with left or right?


Youtube is your freind

yes stop asking stupid questions......troll

On 13/11/2020 08:23, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 12/11/2020 22:42, alan_m wrote:
On 12/11/2020 22:27, ss wrote:
Used for 1st time today although purchased 2 years ago.
If I am holding the chainsaw in front of me with the `chain` pointing
away.Â* So on the righthand side the chain moves away from me, then
coming down the other side the `chain` is moving towards me.
Does it make any difference from a safety point of view which side I
cut with left or right?


Youtube is your freind

yes stop asking stupid questions......troll

You can as much damage to yourself with an electric chainsaw
as a petrol one.

Is there any reason why you cannot simply use a hand saw ?.
One with a good quality blade, intended for cutting timber
across the grain, will go through sappy wood quite easily.

I'd have thought that one way would cover you in chippings and also pull you
into the tree if it jammed, but most Electric ones do not have the oomph for
that sort of thing. I've only handled one once, frightened the daylights out
of me, even when I could see.
Brian

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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"alan_m" wrote in message
...
On 12/11/2020 22:27, ss wrote:
Used for 1st time today although purchased 2 years ago.
If I am holding the chainsaw in front of me with the `chain` pointing
away. So on the righthand side the chain moves away from me, then coming
down the other side the `chain` is moving towards me.
Does it make any difference from a safety point of view which side I cut
with left or right?


Youtube is your freind

the following suggests stand to the left.

How to Safely Operate Your Electric Chainsaw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXAKpnyUBpA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9BegDz1Beo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qiA28e9cOk
--
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On 13/11/2020 08:33, Brian Gaff (Sofa) wrote:
I'd have thought that one way would cover you in chippings and also pull you
into the tree if it jammed, but most Electric ones do not have the oomph for
that sort of thing. I've only handled one once, frightened the daylights out
of me, even when I could see.
Brian

wimp

Brian Gaff (Sofa) explained :
I'd have thought that one way would cover you in chippings and also pull you
into the tree if it jammed, but most Electric ones do not have the oomph for
that sort of thing. I've only handled one once, frightened the daylights out
of me, even when I could see.

I had to buy a petrol version and use it to deal with a fallen tree a
couple of years ago. Buying one and cutting it up myself, was the
cheaper/ simpler / quicker option. I bought a long bladed one, because
the trunk was quite thick.

I must admit I was at first very wary of it at first, with all the
stories of injury and risk of death, so I made sure I had someone with
me when using it. In fact it was much easier to use, than I expected,
it jammed several times and the clutch slipped to prevent any injury,
as it was designed to do. Tree had been blown down, so I only needed to
use it on the ground - I doubt I would have the confidence to use it
off the ground.

On 13/11/2020 08:59, Harry Bloomfield wrote:

was designed to do. Tree had been blown down, so I only needed to use it
on the ground - I doubt I would have the confidence to use it off the
ground.

Back handles saws can only safely be used two handed, so they are
difficult you use safely off the ground unless say on a scaffold tower,
or properly roped and harnessed to the tree. For aerial work most
arborists will use the smaller "top handle" saws, which can be used
single handed (although even then they are safer with two!).



--
Cheers,

John.

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In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
On 13/11/2020 08:59, Harry Bloomfield wrote:

was designed to do. Tree had been blown down, so I only needed to use it
on the ground - I doubt I would have the confidence to use it off the
ground.

Back handles saws can only safely be used two handed, so they are
difficult you use safely off the ground unless say on a scaffold tower,
or properly roped and harnessed to the tree. For aerial work most
arborists will use the smaller "top handle" saws, which can be used
single handed (although even then they are safer with two!).

but the other hand should be holding onto the ladder

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 13/11/2020 08:33, Brian Gaff (Sofa) wrote:
I'd have thought that one way would cover you in chippings and also pull you
into the tree if it jammed,

Pulling you into the work piece is the safer option - the other way
sends the chain saw towards you.

but most Electric ones do not have the oomph for
that sort of thing. I've only handled one once, frightened the daylights out
of me, even when I could see.

I once attended a agriculture and woodland show where representatives
from Stihl were demonstrating their product range. One message was that
even their small electric range could inflict serious personal damage if
used incorrectly.

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On 13/11/2020 08:33, Brian Gaff (Sofa) wrote:

I'd have thought that one way would cover you in chippings and also pull you
into the tree if it jammed,

That is the better way generally - it pulls the saw away from you, and
pulls the dog teeth on the front of the body into the side of the wood.
You can then use a pivoting action - pulling on the rear handle to drive
the chain through the wood, pivoting on the dog teeth.

You can cut on the "push" side of the chain, but its not so easy when
cutting thicker stuff.

but most Electric ones do not have the oomph for
that sort of thing. I've only handled one once, frightened the daylights out
of me, even when I could see.

The power outputs of a mains electric is comparable with many small
petrol saws. In fact the new breed of cordless electrics can pretty much
match all but the most powerful petrol ones.



--
Cheers,

John.

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On Thu, 12 Nov 2020 22:27:45 +0000, ss wrote:

Used for 1st time today although purchased 2 years ago.
If I am holding the chainsaw in front of me with the `chain` pointing
away. So on the righthand side the chain moves away from me, then
coming down the other side the `chain` is moving towards me.
Does it make any difference from a safety point of view which side I cut
with left or right?

I'm not sure I follow your description but generally the top handle
only goes round one side (left) so you would typically cut
horizontally from right to left with your left hand supporting the saw
by the left side of top / side handle and your right hand on the back
handle / trigger. If the back handle doesn't rotate you may end up
using the trigger with your thumb. I'm not sure if they are set up for
cack handers? ;-)

My cuts are mostly at waist height and horizontal.

I believe you would do most cuts using the bottom of the bar (where it
comes towards you) and the spikes that are normally there to help it
all stay in place are generally more at the bottom than the top.

You might only used the top of the saw for 'snedding' and undercutting
but I wouldn't recommend a novice ever doing either without the right
training and PPE.

I think you also want to stand as far back as you can from the saw but
without overstretching. Keeping away whilst being in full control. You
really don't want to be within reach of the bar or chain if it comes
off the bar.

But please don't take any of the above as a recommendation you just
give it a go. ;-(

Cheers, T i m

On 12/11/2020 23:07, T i m wrote:
I'm not sure I follow your description

I will try and clarify.
Chain travels in a loop.
up one side and down the other,
So one side is travelling away from me the other towards me.
Does it matter if I cut from either side of the `loop`.


https://imgur.com/sdj1TTe

On 12/11/2020 23:48, ss wrote:
On 12/11/2020 23:07, T i m wrote:
I'm not sure I follow your description

I will try and clarify.
Chain travels in a loop.
up one side and down the other,
So one side is travelling away from me the other towards me.
Does it matter if I cut from either side of the `loop`.


https://imgur.com/sdj1TTe

https://youtu.be/kzuijFHquQk?t=489

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On 13/11/20 10:48 am, ss wrote:
On 12/11/2020 23:07, T i m wrote:
I'm not sure I follow your description

I will try and clarify.
Chain travels in a loop.
up one side and down the other,
So one side is travelling away from me the other towards me.
Does it matter if I cut from either side of the `loop`.


https://imgur.com/sdj1TTe
One is very dangerous and other not so, the blade should always be
coming toward you.

On Thu, 12 Nov 2020 23:48:53 +0000, ss wrote:

On 12/11/2020 23:07, T i m wrote:
I'm not sure I follow your description

I will try and clarify.

Ok ...

Chain travels in a loop.

It does indeed. ;-)

up one side and down the other,

Well yes, but you had it on it's side so it was left and right but no,
all the man cutting is done with the bottom of the bar (where the
chain is coming towards you).

So one side is travelling away from me the other towards me.

Ok ..

Does it matter if I cut from either side of the `loop`.

No, if you know what, when and how you are doing but yes, if you are
just using a chainsaw for the first time.

However, I believe I answered your question the first time anyway. ;-)


https://imgur.com/sdj1TTe

(Sorry, can't open that for some reason).

Cheers, T i m

ss wrote:
On 12/11/2020 23:07, T i m wrote:
I'm not sure I follow your description

I will try and clarify.
Chain travels in a loop.
up one side and down the other,
So one side is travelling away from me the other towards me.
Does it matter if I cut from either side of the `loop`.

You always (well, very nearly always) cut with the 'bottom' of the saw
such that the saw is pulled away from you.

It's (just about) permissable to cut with the top side for making a
small groove in the underside of a branch which you are lopping so
that when you cut it off in the normal way from the top it breaks off
reasonably neatly rather than tearing. Be extra careful when doing
this cutting with the 'wrong' side of the saw.

--
Chris Green
·

On 12/11/2020 23:48, ss wrote:
On 12/11/2020 23:07, T i m wrote:
I'm not sure I follow your description

I will try and clarify.
Chain travels in a loop.
up one side and down the other,
So one side is travelling away from me the other towards me.
Does it matter if I cut from either side of the `loop`.


https://imgur.com/sdj1TTe

The bit that travels towards you is the lower part of the loop
and that is the one that should be doing the cutting. If the
chain jams and tries to rotate the whole thing back towards
you, the handguard is supposed to lock the chain thus protecting
you from injury. There are *many* fakes on ebay where this
safety mechanism just doesn't work.

Undercutting uses the top part of the blade and if you are
complete beginner, I wouldn't advise it until you are happy that
you are in control.

ss wrote:
On 12/11/2020 23:07, T i m wrote:
I'm not sure I follow your description

I will try and clarify.
Chain travels in a loop.
up one side and down the other,
So one side is travelling away from me the other towards me.
Does it matter if I cut from either side of the `loop`.


https://imgur.com/sdj1TTe

----------------
bar \
/
---------------- The chain pulls the log up
\ / \ === against the teeth, and gives
/ | log | a degree of control. There is
\ \ / less tendency to rotate if the
/ work is pinned against the teeth.

Whereas doing it like this is more dangerous.

----------------
bar \
/
----------------
\ / \
/ | log |
\ \ /
/

There was at one time, a website with a picture
of the human body, showing the most and least popular
places to inflict injury with a chainsaw. The right
side of the body was more affected, suggesting there
are more right-handed people in the world. The purpose
of assembling pictures like that from the available
data, is to keep you aware that a chainsaw is a
*dangerous* tool. The chain is just as sharp on
an electric chainsaw.

To do horizontal cuts (bring down a portion of a
tree trunk), you use the three cut method. But you
practices on some 4" logs, making vertical cuts, until
you are used to using the chainsaw. Don't start your
first project, felling a tree trunk. You want to use
the saw, so that the gravity feed oil supply continues
to lubricate the bar.

3 --------- --------- 2
\__ remove wedge of wood, defines fall line
\__ and do remove the wedge so there
\__ 1 is air showing here.

You should only use the three-cut method if the trunk
is sound. If the trunk is rotten, you could make your
first cut... and have the trunk fall on you, or jam
the bar.

Professional tree fellers use a team, and three staff
operate ropes to pull some of the materials away from
the house. *Do not* wrap pull ropes around your hand
or your wrist, if you're on the team pulling on those
ropes. If you lose control while working a cut, let the
rope go before it burns you. I've seen people pulled
through the brush by a pull rope. With a big tree, you
can be pulled 20 feet by your rope. You don't want that
to happen. While using the saw is dangerous,
being a drunken fool pulling on the rope is
just as dangerous if not done correctly.

Paul

On 12/11/2020 22:27, ss wrote:
Used for 1st time today although purchased 2 years ago.
If I am holding the chainsaw in front of me with the `chain` pointing
away.Â* So on the righthand side the chain moves away from me, then
coming down the other side the `chain` is moving towards me.
Does it make any difference from a safety point of view which side I cut
with left or right?

My cuts are mostly at waist height and horizontal.

If you are holding a traditional "right hander" saw with the chain bar
pointing away from you and vertical, then on the top of the bar the
chain will be moving away from you, and on the underside of the bar
toward you.

If you were say cutting logs from a section of trunk supported
horizontally, you would use the under side of the bar. Because of the
"handedness" of the saw it will normally be a little to your right in
these cases. Ideally you want to keep out of a direct line of the chain,
so it it were to snap and whip round under the saw your body or legs
would not be in the way.

Likewise be careful what you do with the tip of the bar - it the top
quadrant of the nosewheel snags on something, it will flick the bar up
and toward you. Not being directly behind it is again very worthwhile!
(forestry helmet with a visor will also keep your head in one piece
should a kickback hit your head or face).

If you are felling a tree - and so need to hold the saw horizontally,
then you will typically cut from right to left with the bottom of the
bar again.

The only time you would normally use the top of the bar is when cutting
through a branch that has load on it, and there is a danger of it
splitting and ripping a section off the underside of the branch before
you manage to cut right through. In that case you could use the top of
the bar to make partial cut to the underside of the branch before
reverting to cutting from the top. That will let you do a clean cut
without splitting the underside of the branch.

All in all, take a moment to think through each cut. Clear stuff that
might trip you out of the way before each cut. Plan an escape route. If
it goes pear shaped, let go of the saw and move! Wear PPE. Don't forget
electric chainsaws still need bar oil to work properly.


--
Cheers,

John.

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John Rumm wrote:

ss wrote:

Does it make any difference from a safety point of view which side I
cut with [...] ?

If you are holding a traditional "right hander" saw with the chain bar
pointing away from you and vertical, then on the top of the bar the
chain will be moving away from you, and on the underside of the bar
toward you.

With mine held that way, there is a "chain catcher" on the underside.

On 13/11/2020 07:06, Andy Burns wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

ss wrote:

Does it make any difference from a safety point of view which side I
cut with [...] ?

If you are holding a traditional "right hander" saw with the chain bar
pointing away from you and vertical, then on the top of the bar the
chain will be moving away from you, and on the underside of the bar
toward you.

With mine held that way, there is a "chain catcher" on the underside.

Yup, that's true for most modern saws

(for the OP, the chain catcher is a metal bracket that entraps the chain
just before it vanishes back into the saw near the rear drive sprocket.
The idea being that if the chain were to snap and start to pull away
from the underside of the bar the catcher would snag it and bring it to
a stop before it has a chance to whip around something soft and fleshy
while still being driven under power)


--
Cheers,

John.

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\================================================= ================/

On 12/11/2020 22:27, ss wrote:
Used for 1st time today although purchased 2 years ago.
If I am holding the chainsaw in front of me with the `chain` pointing
away.Â* So on the righthand side the chain moves away from me, then
coming down the other side the `chain` is moving towards me.
Does it make any difference from a safety point of view which side I cut
with left or right?

My cuts are mostly at waist height and horizontal.

Yes it does.
If you use the moving-away side to cut the saw will tend to push out of
the cut and if it reaches the saw tip the saw will kick out. When
cutting with a vertical blade this can result in a chain in your face.

So it is definitely not recommended. Having said this I've been using my
little petrol saw for 20 years and do it all the time. BUT I have a
profound respect for power tools. After cars, they are probably the most
lethal things people use on a regular basis.


--
"It is an established fact to 97% confidence limits that left wing
conspirators see right wing conspiracies everywhere"

On 13/11/2020 04:10, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
If you use the moving-away side to cut the saw will tend to push out of
the cut and if it reaches the saw tip the saw will kick out

So like a router where going in one direction pushes it off the cut.

Ok, thanks all I think I get it now.
I only need to use it every couple of years so wont be extensive use.

On Fri, 13 Nov 2020 08:31:49 +0000, ss wrote:

snip

Ok, thanks all I think I get it now.
I only need to use it every couple of years so wont be extensive use.

Unfortunately, with things like chainsaws that intermittent level of
use makes it even more dangerous.

If you were to get the training, got the relevant ticket (CS30):

https://www.kingswoodtraining.com/ch...utting-course/

had *all* the right PPE and did enough of it to gain a reasonable
level of experience, then it would be more like riding a bike (when
you went back to it 'next time'). ;-)

As others have mentioned, chainsaws can be very dangerous things (as
many 'professionals' can attest (and some that now can't)) and part of
that reason is because how they cut, removing a fair chunk of you,
should something go wrong (eg, not like a knife cut).

As other have also mentioned, if you know and use some basic
techniques, specifically around what you *don't* do, you could be ok.

They are similar in their risk factor to a grenade. If you read the
instructions and follow them to the letter ... and don't try to take
short cuts or try anything (that turns out to be) silly .... ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On 13/11/2020 08:31, ss wrote:
On 13/11/2020 04:10, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
If you use the moving-away side to cut the saw will tend to push out
of the cut and if it reaches the saw tip the saw will kick out

So like a router where going in one direction pushes it off the cut.

Ok, thanks all I think I get it now.
I only need to use it every couple of years so wont be extensive use.
Dont be afraid to use it the 'wrong' way - for example when cutting a
heavy horizontal piece that is supported at the ends, the blade will jam
if you do it from above so you can either turn the thing over or cut the
last bit from underneath,assuming you cant get a support in to jack up
the area you are cutting.




--
€œThere are two ways to be fooled. One is to believe what isnt true; the
other is to refuse to believe what is true.€�

€”Soren Kierkegaard

On 12/11/2020 22:27, ss wrote:
Used for 1st time today although purchased 2 years ago.
If I am holding the chainsaw in front of me with the `chain` pointing
away.Â* So on the righthand side the chain moves away from me, then
coming down the other side the `chain` is moving towards me.
Does it make any difference from a safety point of view which side I cut
with left or right?

My cuts are mostly at waist height and horizontal.

Whenever possible only cut on the side where the chain returns towards
the motor with the gripped held against the workpiece.

Mike