Hi all

I have been trying to use a LidlAldi car tyre inflator to pump up a large child's
'play pool'. I realise the pressure/volume match is not a good one, but I'm
being a cheapskate...

I have been trying to power the inflator from the mains via a 12V adapter,
instead of a car battery/lighter socket. I tried two different PSU adapters: one
rated 12V/1.5A and the other 12V/4A.

Neither was much of a success; the inflater barely worked and kept 'conking out'.
It runs fine from the 12V car socket.

I am guessing that least part of the trouble is that both supplies were
switch-mode, intended for fairly linear loads. From the 'put-put' noise of the
inflator I imagine it is an impulse type design with highly varying load.

I'm really musing if anyone else has done anything like this, and whether it is worth me trying a different (linear) adapter? I have probably thrown a few
Transformer-based 12V adapters away recently ;-(.

(I have pumped up the pool regardless, this is for 'next time').

Thanks
J^n

jkn wrote:
I am guessing that least part of the trouble is that both supplies were
switch-mode, intended for fairly linear loads. From the 'put-put' noise of the
inflator I imagine it is an impulse type design with highly varying load.

I'm really musing if anyone else has done anything like this, and whether
it is worth me trying a different (linear) adapter? I have probably
thrown a few Transformer-based 12V adapters away recently ;-(.

I don't imagine a linear wallwart is going to help - taking large gulps of
current is likely to just cause the transformer to saturate, so it still
can't deliver the current.

You could try some chunky capacitors across the output of your 12V/4A supply
- they might be able to buffer the current gulps. Some linear PSUs (eg in
bench supplies and hifi gear) already have such large capacitors, while
wallwarts probably don't.

Also, power supplies from the Playstation 3 go up to 32A @ 12V, are fanless,
and available on ebay for under a tenner:
https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Power_Supply
(similarly power supplies from old servers, but they tend to howl)

Theo

jkn wrote:
Hi all

I have been trying to use a LidlAldi car tyre inflator to pump up a large child's
'play pool'. I realise the pressure/volume match is not a good one, but I'm
being a cheapskate...

I have been trying to power the inflator from the mains via a 12V adapter,
instead of a car battery/lighter socket. I tried two different PSU adapters: one
rated 12V/1.5A and the other 12V/4A.

Neither was much of a success; the inflater barely worked and kept 'conking out'.
It runs fine from the 12V car socket.

I am guessing that least part of the trouble is that both supplies were
switch-mode, intended for fairly linear loads. From the 'put-put' noise of the
inflator I imagine it is an impulse type design with highly varying load.

I'm really musing if anyone else has done anything like this, and whether
it is worth me trying a different (linear) adapter? I have probably thrown
a few
Transformer-based 12V adapters away recently ;-(.

It's not a problem with switch-mode or not, it's simply that those
little tyre pumps take a *lot* of current. When I measured mine it
was taking about 15 amps. So your 1.5A or 4A PSUs simply can't cope.

What I do if I want to run a pump away from a car is use a small car
battery (it's actually a garden tractor one) and have a charger to
keep it charged.

--
Chris Green
·

After serious thinking jkn wrote :
I have been trying to use a LidlAldi car tyre inflator to pump up a large
child's
'play pool'. I realise the pressure/volume match is not a good one, but I'm
being a cheapskate...

That needs considerable volume, at low pressure - well beyond a tyre
inflator.

The PSU needs to be able to cope with starting and surge current, much
bigger than what you have.

In message , Theo
writes
jkn wrote:
I am guessing that least part of the trouble is that both supplies were
switch-mode, intended for fairly linear loads. From the 'put-put'
noise of the
inflator I imagine it is an impulse type design with highly varying load.

I'm really musing if anyone else has done anything like this, and whether
it is worth me trying a different (linear) adapter? I have probably
thrown a few Transformer-based 12V adapters away recently ;-(.

I don't imagine a linear wallwart is going to help - taking large gulps of
current is likely to just cause the transformer to saturate, so it still
can't deliver the current.

You could try some chunky capacitors across the output of your 12V/4A supply
- they might be able to buffer the current gulps. Some linear PSUs (eg in
bench supplies and hifi gear) already have such large capacitors, while
wallwarts probably don't.

Also, power supplies from the Playstation 3 go up to 32A @ 12V, are fanless,
and available on ebay for under a tenner:
https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Power_Supply
(similarly power supplies from old servers, but they tend to howl)

I know this is d-i-y but I have been very impressed with a £12.00 pool
inflator from Homebase but I guess elsewhere as well. Faster than using
my workshop compressor!

Ozito by Einhell 130Watt.

--
Tim Lamb

On Friday, August 7, 2020 at 11:33:05 AM UTC+1, Chris Green wrote:
jkn wrote:
Hi all

I have been trying to use a LidlAldi car tyre inflator to pump up a large child's
'play pool'. I realise the pressure/volume match is not a good one, but I'm
being a cheapskate...

I have been trying to power the inflator from the mains via a 12V adapter,
instead of a car battery/lighter socket. I tried two different PSU adapters: one
rated 12V/1.5A and the other 12V/4A.

Neither was much of a success; the inflater barely worked and kept 'conking out'.
It runs fine from the 12V car socket.

I am guessing that least part of the trouble is that both supplies were
switch-mode, intended for fairly linear loads. From the 'put-put' noise of the
inflator I imagine it is an impulse type design with highly varying load.

I'm really musing if anyone else has done anything like this, and whether
it is worth me trying a different (linear) adapter? I have probably thrown
a few
Transformer-based 12V adapters away recently ;-(.

It's not a problem with switch-mode or not, it's simply that those
little tyre pumps take a *lot* of current. When I measured mine it
was taking about 15 amps. So your 1.5A or 4A PSUs simply can't cope.

What I do if I want to run a pump away from a car is use a small car
battery (it's actually a garden tractor one) and have a charger to
keep it charged.

--
Chris Green
·

Interesting, thanks. I did look at the fuse inside the pump's cigarette socket
and IIRC it was 10A; I was guessing it took a lot less than than, but I have
no problem being wrong about that...

On Friday, August 7, 2020 at 11:59:12 AM UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Theo
writes
jkn wrote:
I am guessing that least part of the trouble is that both supplies were
switch-mode, intended for fairly linear loads. From the 'put-put'
noise of the
inflator I imagine it is an impulse type design with highly varying load.

I'm really musing if anyone else has done anything like this, and whether
it is worth me trying a different (linear) adapter? I have probably
thrown a few Transformer-based 12V adapters away recently ;-(.

I don't imagine a linear wallwart is going to help - taking large gulps of
current is likely to just cause the transformer to saturate, so it still
can't deliver the current.

You could try some chunky capacitors across the output of your 12V/4A supply
- they might be able to buffer the current gulps. Some linear PSUs (eg in
bench supplies and hifi gear) already have such large capacitors, while
wallwarts probably don't.

Also, power supplies from the Playstation 3 go up to 32A @ 12V, are fanless,
and available on ebay for under a tenner:
https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Power_Supply
(similarly power supplies from old servers, but they tend to howl)

I know this is d-i-y but I have been very impressed with a £12.00 pool
inflator from Homebase but I guess elsewhere as well. Faster than using
my workshop compressor!

Ozito by Einhell 130Watt.

--
Tim Lamb

Interesting, thanks. I hate the fact that they have to be plugged directly into
the Appliance to be pumped up - especially since IMO they all have different
diameter adapters etc. But then I also hate faffing with pipes and all the
incompatible adapters otherwise!

On Friday, August 7, 2020 at 11:19:08 AM UTC+1, Theo wrote:
jkn wrote:
I am guessing that least part of the trouble is that both supplies were
switch-mode, intended for fairly linear loads. From the 'put-put' noise of the
inflator I imagine it is an impulse type design with highly varying load.

I'm really musing if anyone else has done anything like this, and whether
it is worth me trying a different (linear) adapter? I have probably
thrown a few Transformer-based 12V adapters away recently ;-(.

I don't imagine a linear wallwart is going to help - taking large gulps of
current is likely to just cause the transformer to saturate, so it still
can't deliver the current.

You could try some chunky capacitors across the output of your 12V/4A supply
- they might be able to buffer the current gulps. Some linear PSUs (eg in
bench supplies and hifi gear) already have such large capacitors, while
wallwarts probably don't.

Also, power supplies from the Playstation 3 go up to 32A @ 12V, are fanless,
and available on ebay for under a tenner:
https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Power_Supply
(similarly power supplies from old servers, but they tend to howl)

Theo

Hi Theo
do the PS3 PSUs need a 5V load to run, do you know?

Thanks
J^n

jkn wrote:
https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Power_Supply
do the PS3 PSUs need a 5V load to run, do you know?

I don't know, but a teardown of one version:
https://www.experimental-engineering...y-voltage-mod/
shows minimum load resistors already in place. So I assume not.

Theo

On 07/08/2020 11:36, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
After serious thinking jkn wrote :
I have been trying to use a LidlAldi car tyre inflator to pump up a
large child's
'play pool'. I realise the pressure/volume match is not a good one,
but I'm
being a cheapskate...

That needs considerable volume, at low pressure - well beyond a tyre
inflator.

The PSU needs to be able to cope with starting and surge current, much
bigger than what you have.

Most cheap car inflators will take up to about 15A max.
If that is within spec for the PSU, go for it

As for the volume thing, to fill a car tyre to 3 bar is the same volume
as filling 3 car tyres to atmospheric and considerably less work
Id say a tyre inflator would do that pretty well on a paddling pool, if
you don't mind letting it run for 20 minutes

Its certainly less than ideal though


--
€œit should be clear by now to everyone that activist environmentalism
(or environmental activism) is becoming a general ideology about humans,
about their freedom, about the relationship between the individual and
the state, and about the manipulation of people under the guise of a
'noble' idea. It is not an honest pursuit of 'sustainable development,'
a matter of elementary environmental protection, or a search for
rational mechanisms designed to achieve a healthy environment. Yet
things do occur that make you shake your head and remind yourself that
you live neither in Joseph Stalins Communist era, nor in the Orwellian
utopia of 1984.€�

Vaclav Klaus

jkn wrote:
On Friday, August 7, 2020 at 11:33:05 AM UTC+1, Chris Green wrote:
jkn wrote:
Hi all

I have been trying to use a LidlAldi car tyre inflator to pump up a large child's
'play pool'. I realise the pressure/volume match is not a good one, but I'm
being a cheapskate...

I have been trying to power the inflator from the mains via a 12V adapter,
instead of a car battery/lighter socket. I tried two different PSU adapters: one
rated 12V/1.5A and the other 12V/4A.

Neither was much of a success; the inflater barely worked and kept 'conking out'.
It runs fine from the 12V car socket.

I am guessing that least part of the trouble is that both supplies were
switch-mode, intended for fairly linear loads. From the 'put-put' noise of the
inflator I imagine it is an impulse type design with highly varying load.

I'm really musing if anyone else has done anything like this, and whether
it is worth me trying a different (linear) adapter? I have probably thrown
a few
Transformer-based 12V adapters away recently ;-(.

It's not a problem with switch-mode or not, it's simply that those
little tyre pumps take a *lot* of current. When I measured mine it
was taking about 15 amps. So your 1.5A or 4A PSUs simply can't cope.

What I do if I want to run a pump away from a car is use a small car
battery (it's actually a garden tractor one) and have a charger to
keep it charged.

·

Interesting, thanks. I did look at the fuse inside the pump's cigarette socket
and IIRC it was 10A; I was guessing it took a lot less than than, but I have
no problem being wrong about that...

A 10 amp fuse will take a *long* time to blow at 15 amps, like many
minutes. I only decided to check the current my pump was taking when
I found the cigarette socket plug (horrible things) was running very
hot, much too hot to touch.

Where possible I install Torberry Powerpole connectors on
car/boat/bike, much neater and smaller than cigarette lighter, carry
more current without getting hot, are they are 'genderless'. (See
https://www.torberry.co.uk).

--
Chris Green
·

In message , jkn
writes
On Friday, August 7, 2020 at 11:59:12 AM UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Theo
writes
jkn wrote:
I am guessing that least part of the trouble is that both supplies were
switch-mode, intended for fairly linear loads. From the 'put-put'
noise of the
inflator I imagine it is an impulse type design with highly varying load.

I'm really musing if anyone else has done anything like this, and whether
it is worth me trying a different (linear) adapter? I have probably
thrown a few Transformer-based 12V adapters away recently ;-(.

I don't imagine a linear wallwart is going to help - taking large gulps of
current is likely to just cause the transformer to saturate, so it still
can't deliver the current.

You could try some chunky capacitors across the output of your 12V/4A supply
- they might be able to buffer the current gulps. Some linear PSUs (eg in
bench supplies and hifi gear) already have such large capacitors, while
wallwarts probably don't.

Also, power supplies from the Playstation 3 go up to 32A @ 12V, are fanless,
and available on ebay for under a tenner:
https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Power_Supply
(similarly power supplies from old servers, but they tend to howl)

I know this is d-i-y but I have been very impressed with a £12.00 pool
inflator from Homebase but I guess elsewhere as well. Faster than using
my workshop compressor!

Ozito by Einhell 130Watt.

--
Tim Lamb

Interesting, thanks. I hate the fact that they have to be plugged directly into
the Appliance to be pumped up - especially since IMO they all have different
diameter adapters etc. But then I also hate faffing with pipes and all the
incompatible adapters otherwise!

Tubeless tyre valve (complete) works well:-) Lying on the floor at your
nearest tyre factor.

The Ozito comes with 3 tapered adapters.


--
Tim Lamb

On 07/08/2020 10:58, jkn wrote:
Hi all

I have been trying to use a LidlAldi car tyre inflator to pump up a large child's
'play pool'. I realise the pressure/volume match is not a good one, but I'm
being a cheapskate...

I have been trying to power the inflator from the mains via a 12V adapter,
instead of a car battery/lighter socket. I tried two different PSU adapters: one
rated 12V/1.5A and the other 12V/4A.

Neither was much of a success; the inflater barely worked and kept 'conking out'.
It runs fine from the 12V car socket.

I am guessing that least part of the trouble is that both supplies were
switch-mode, intended for fairly linear loads. From the 'put-put' noise of the
inflator I imagine it is an impulse type design with highly varying load.

I'm really musing if anyone else has done anything like this, and whether it is worth me trying a different (linear) adapter? I have probably thrown a few
Transformer-based 12V adapters away recently ;-(.

(I have pumped up the pool regardless, this is for 'next time').

Thanks
J^n

A tyre inflator will be designed for use for short periods, not for the
length of time to inflate a pool. It may well overheat.

I've used a fishtank bubbler pump for this. It took well over 24 hours.

--
Cheers
Clive

Y3es, you really need something like a car battery charger that is meant to
fast charge a battery for that kind of thing, as long as the volts are not
more than 14v and its not too ripply.
Linear supplies, the old ones that break your toe if you drop it on your
foot were much better at this sort of thing, but remember the limiting
factor could be the thermal cut off or killing the rectifier!

Some older train and slot racing car units seemed to work.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"jkn" wrote in message
...
Hi all

I have been trying to use a LidlAldi car tyre inflator to pump up a large
child's
'play pool'. I realise the pressure/volume match is not a good one, but
I'm
being a cheapskate...

I have been trying to power the inflator from the mains via a 12V adapter,
instead of a car battery/lighter socket. I tried two different PSU
adapters: one
rated 12V/1.5A and the other 12V/4A.

Neither was much of a success; the inflater barely worked and kept
'conking out'.
It runs fine from the 12V car socket.

I am guessing that least part of the trouble is that both supplies were
switch-mode, intended for fairly linear loads. From the 'put-put' noise of
the
inflator I imagine it is an impulse type design with highly varying load.

I'm really musing if anyone else has done anything like this, and whether
it is worth me trying a different (linear) adapter? I have probably thrown
a few
Transformer-based 12V adapters away recently ;-(.

(I have pumped up the pool regardless, this is for 'next time').

Thanks
J^n

On Fri, 7 Aug 2020 14:19:07 +0100
Chris Green wrote:

A 10 amp fuse will take a *long* time to blow at 15 amps, like many
minutes. I only decided to check the current my pump was taking when
I found the cigarette socket plug (horrible things) was running very
hot, much too hot to touch.

I started using a cigarette socket plug from CPC, but part of the
circuit was a pressure spring, which heated up and turned the whole
thing into a molten mess.

'8 Amps' was for a few minutes only.

--
Davey.

The Natural Philosopher laid this down on his screen :
As for the volume thing, to fill a car tyre to 3 bar is the same volume as
filling 3 car tyres to atmospheric and considerably less work
Id say a tyre inflator would do that pretty well on a paddling pool, if you
don't mind letting it run for 20 minutes

Its certainly less than ideal though

Those small car tyre inflators use a plastic piston. In use they
generate lots of heat - the piston will just melt. Ask me how I know.

Tim Lamb explained :
I know this is d-i-y but I have been very impressed with a £12.00 pool
inflator from Homebase but I guess elsewhere as well. Faster than using my
workshop compressor!

That is because it is a low pressure, high volume pump. Possibly
peristaltic type.

jkn wrote:
Hi all

I have been trying to use a LidlAldi car tyre inflator to pump up a large child's
'play pool'. I realise the pressure/volume match is not a good one, but I'm
being a cheapskate...

I have been trying to power the inflator from the mains via a 12V adapter,
instead of a car battery/lighter socket. I tried two different PSU adapters: one
rated 12V/1.5A and the other 12V/4A.

Neither was much of a success; the inflater barely worked and kept 'conking out'.
It runs fine from the 12V car socket.

I am guessing that least part of the trouble is that both supplies were
switch-mode, intended for fairly linear loads. From the 'put-put' noise of the
inflator I imagine it is an impulse type design with highly varying load.

I'm really musing if anyone else has done anything like this, and whether it is worth me trying a different (linear) adapter? I have probably thrown a few
Transformer-based 12V adapters away recently ;-(.

(I have pumped up the pool regardless, this is for 'next time').

Thanks
J^n

I had a similar kind of experience with mine.

You tried your wall adapters and had a lack of success.

When I plugged mine into the car, it blew the fuse
on the lighter socket. But, I was holding a spare in
my hand, because I expected this to happen.

The two page "instruction manual" was a shambles,
the printed one in the box. It didn't say anything
about power requirements.

However, I just tried a Google, and a later model
(that looks identical on the outside at least),
lists 105W, which is very approximately 9 amps.

https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com...06manual_2.pdf

SPECIFICATIONS
Model: W-1706
Power Requirement: 12V DC Neg. Gnd
Maximum PSI: 200 psi blocked head pressure
Duty Cycle: 15 min. on/30 min. off
Power: 105W @ 12V DC
Maximum Air Flow: 0.7 CFM (high pressure)
1.4 CFM (low pressure)

Now, that's not a surge rating for the first
100 milliseconds when you switch it on. That's
after it's spinning and pumping. It might draw
more than 9A at the very first, then settle
down to 9A after that. I think my lighter
socket fuse might have been 25A or 30A or so.

*******

They make Ham Radio supplies as battery eliminators
for mobile rigs being run in a shack. The quality of these
varies all over the place. Some are linear (quiet - but inefficient
and run hot), some are SMPS (efficient, but not electrically quiet,
create hash on the radio they power). For your pumping
project, the type probably doesn't matter quite as much,
but the OverCurrent detection might be just as
"precise" as your wall adapters. This particular one
weighs 30 pounds, so it's obviously got a giant
transformer inside. SMPS ones could be a bit smaller.
It costs as much as half of the purchase price,
for the shipping on it.

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-PR.../dp/B00008W7SH

That's just to show the absurdity of "trying to beat the system" :-)

Mine was definitely not drawing 9 amps when it blew
the fuse in the car. And that's the excessive current
the motor draws when it first starts up. When you operate
from a car battery (and without a too-small fuse in the way),
the battery can handle a larger load. I measured my car
one day, and the starter motor drew 150 amps peak,
and the battery voltage dropped down to 9V while
doing so. That's why the battery is a bit dangerous.
It's got more capability than that Tripplite thing.

*******

This example of a line-powered air mattress pump is a lot cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/NuLink-Electr.../dp/B07SR1LZ5C

high power 130W

Winding the motor for line voltage, doesn't seem to be affecting
the price all that much. And at least, they've selected a motor
in the same wattage class. It's not an underpowered motor which
further slows down the pumping process.

I don't think that one has a pressure gauge.

Paul

On Friday, August 7, 2020 at 2:33:04 PM UTC+1, Chris Green wrote:
jkn wrote:
On Friday, August 7, 2020 at 11:33:05 AM UTC+1, Chris Green wrote:
jkn wrote:
Hi all

I have been trying to use a LidlAldi car tyre inflator to pump up a large child's
'play pool'. I realise the pressure/volume match is not a good one, but I'm
being a cheapskate...

I have been trying to power the inflator from the mains via a 12V adapter,
instead of a car battery/lighter socket. I tried two different PSU adapters: one
rated 12V/1.5A and the other 12V/4A.

Neither was much of a success; the inflater barely worked and kept 'conking out'.
It runs fine from the 12V car socket.

I am guessing that least part of the trouble is that both supplies were
switch-mode, intended for fairly linear loads. From the 'put-put' noise of the
inflator I imagine it is an impulse type design with highly varying load.

I'm really musing if anyone else has done anything like this, and whether
it is worth me trying a different (linear) adapter? I have probably thrown
a few
Transformer-based 12V adapters away recently ;-(.

It's not a problem with switch-mode or not, it's simply that those
little tyre pumps take a *lot* of current. When I measured mine it
was taking about 15 amps. So your 1.5A or 4A PSUs simply can't cope.

What I do if I want to run a pump away from a car is use a small car
battery (it's actually a garden tractor one) and have a charger to
keep it charged.

·

Interesting, thanks. I did look at the fuse inside the pump's cigarette socket
and IIRC it was 10A; I was guessing it took a lot less than than, but I have
no problem being wrong about that...

A 10 amp fuse will take a *long* time to blow at 15 amps, like many
minutes. I only decided to check the current my pump was taking when
I found the cigarette socket plug (horrible things) was running very
hot, much too hot to touch.


I've got a Ring pump (no jokes please) that turned a 10 amp fuse into a vapour deposition tube as soon as I turned the thing on. Stuck a 15A fuse in and it purred away nicely.

Where possible I install Torberry Powerpole connectors on
car/boat/bike, much neater and smaller than cigarette lighter, carry
more current without getting hot, are they are 'genderless'. (See
https://www.torberry.co.uk).


Think I'll follow up on that - I too hate cigarette lighter sockets and plugs, nasty wobbly bulky things, the SCART of power connectors.

On Fri, 7 Aug 2020 14:19:07 +0100, Chris Green wrote:

snip

Where possible I install Torberry Powerpole connectors on
car/boat/bike, much neater and smaller than cigarette lighter, carry
more current without getting hot, are they are 'genderless'. (See
https://www.torberry.co.uk).

And will generally disconnect (especially the smaller 15/30/45A ones)
of you pull on them (trip over the cable) but can be locked closed
against accidental impact type disconnection (RC cars) with an 'O'
ring. ;-)

https://www.torberry.co.uk/wp-conten...ds-pp15453.pdf

I also use the bigger, SB50 range on all sorts of things (electric
outboard motor to battery etc):

https://www.torberry.co.uk/wp-conten...01/ds-sb50.pdf

Just for the S&G's ... I've ordered a cheap 200A power logger that I
wanted to (temporarily) fit in the main 24V line on this mobility
scooter I'm playing with for Mum. The 130A one I already have has a
pair of XT90 connectors on it but they are genderised so you can't
mix-n-match as easily (can be good or bad etc) as you can with many of
the Anderson range.

The scooter (handily) uses unique connectors throughout (so you can't
connect the wrong things together) but from previous experience I've
found it difficult to get the same connectors as they use (and they
charge a fortune for them, if you get anywhere near having them sell
to you), making it difficult to add something like this power monitor
into the circuit without replacing their connectors with say the
SB50's and then hooking into those (which is what I might do).

Cheers, T i m

T i m wrote:
On Fri, 7 Aug 2020 14:19:07 +0100, Chris Green wrote:

snip

Where possible I install Torberry Powerpole connectors on
car/boat/bike, much neater and smaller than cigarette lighter, carry
more current without getting hot, are they are 'genderless'. (See
https://www.torberry.co.uk).

And will generally disconnect (especially the smaller 15/30/45A ones)
of you pull on them (trip over the cable) but can be locked closed
against accidental impact type disconnection (RC cars) with an 'O'
ring. ;-)

Yes, that's another good thing about them I had forgotten about. I
have one on my 'bike to keep the battery charged and it has been known
for me to drive off with it connected - no harm done. Also one on the
ride on mower, same story! :-)

--
Chris Green
·

On 7 Aug 2020 at 15:49:56 BST, "Halmyre"
wrote:

On Friday, August 7, 2020 at 2:33:04 PM UTC+1, Chris Green wrote:


Where possible I install Torberry Powerpole connectors on
car/boat/bike, much neater and smaller than cigarette lighter, carry
more current without getting hot, are they are 'genderless'. (See
https://www.torberry.co.uk).


Think I'll follow up on that - I too hate cigarette lighter sockets and
plugs, nasty wobbly bulky things, the SCART of power connectors.

Yup. Never seat properly, and seem to be always mounted on flimsy plastic.

--
Cheers, Rob

On 07/08/2020 10:58, jkn wrote:
I have been trying to use a LidlAldi car tyre inflator to pump up a large child's
'play pool'. I realise the pressure/volume match is not a good one, but I'm
being a cheapskate...

(I have pumped up the pool regardless, this is for 'next time').

As a matter of interest, did you give up on the car tyre inflator (in
which year?), and use some other inflating thing? He asked him, kindly?

I have a Lidl blower-upper for air beds and paddling pools and things,
which shifts air quicker than; well, quickly.

On Fri, 7 Aug 2020 16:07:22 +0100, Chris Green wrote:

T i m wrote:
On Fri, 7 Aug 2020 14:19:07 +0100, Chris Green wrote:

snip

Where possible I install Torberry Powerpole connectors on
car/boat/bike, much neater and smaller than cigarette lighter, carry
more current without getting hot, are they are 'genderless'. (See
https://www.torberry.co.uk).

And will generally disconnect (especially the smaller 15/30/45A ones)
of you pull on them (trip over the cable) but can be locked closed
against accidental impact type disconnection (RC cars) with an 'O'
ring. ;-)

Yes, that's another good thing about them I had forgotten about. I
have one on my 'bike to keep the battery charged and it has been known
for me to drive off with it connected - no harm done. Also one on the
ride on mower, same story! :-)

;-)

When we first started using them on the 4X4 RC Touring cars we found
that if they took a hard knock in the wrong direction the Powerpoles
could fly apart, leaving the car dead on the track. So what I then did
was trap an 'O' ring between the two wires on one half of the plug and
then stretch / loop it round the other plug once together. Easy to put
on / slip off but I don't think ever came undone in use.

They could also be ripped apart in an emergency by a knowing marshal
and before the whole lot went up in flames!

Strange isn't it, there are few things in life I really like the
design of and rely on but the various / Powerpole connectors are
probably up there with my Leatherman PST II and my Garmin GPS's. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

p.s. I was given a couple of 'big' old mobility scooter batteries by a
mate to 'play with' the other and he carried to over to me by the
leads and SP50A plugs as handles. ;-(

On 07/08/2020 15:10, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
The Natural Philosopher laid this down on his screen :
As for the volume thing, to fill a car tyre to 3 bar is the same
volume as filling 3 car tyres to atmospheric and considerably less work
Id say a tyre inflator would do that pretty well on a paddling pool,
if you don't mind letting it run for 20 minutes

Its certainly less than ideal though

Those small car tyre inflators use a plastic piston. In use they
generate lots of heat - the piston will just melt. Ask me how I know.
not against no pressure


--
There is something fascinating about science. One gets such wholesale
returns of conjecture out of such a trifling investment of fact.

Mark Twain

On Friday, August 7, 2020 at 4:25:37 PM UTC+1, Chris Bacon wrote:
On 07/08/2020 10:58, jkn wrote:
I have been trying to use a LidlAldi car tyre inflator to pump up a large child's
'play pool'. I realise the pressure/volume match is not a good one, but I'm
being a cheapskate...

(I have pumped up the pool regardless, this is for 'next time').

As a matter of interest, did you give up on the car tyre inflator (in
which year?), and use some other inflating thing? He asked him, kindly?

I have a Lidl blower-upper for air beds and paddling pools and things,
which shifts air quicker than; well, quickly.

Hi Chris
I ended up (this time) taking the mountain to Mohammed, and sited the pool
next to the car (this is not always possible). Then I alternated between the
inflater running off the lighter socket, and a manual 'Dual Action' pump ...
that I had started with defore heading down this path.

I alternated mainly to keep the duty cycle down on the tyre inflater, I was wary
of it overheating. An also the manual pump gives a lot more air per cylinder's
worth.

It is all a pain because none of the connectors fit each other (dunno how the
suggestion of a Schraeder valve is supposed to help, they don't fit either).

I too a bit more of a look at the pump actually intended for the high volume/low
regime we are in here. You can get 12V ones, mains ones, and 'AC/DC' ones.
They all seem to be the same kind of pump. either powered from 230V, or 12V,
or 12V with a wall wart adapter.

Typical advertised rating is in the 120W--180W range. I was amused to be able
to read on the photo of the low voltage adapter for one of these: "12V 500mA" !!
I am thinking of picking up a 12V version and using that with one of my 'gash'
adapters. I was trying to avoid buying ''stuff' though...

I too hate cigarette lighters, for several reasons. I also might look into the
torberry connectors.

Oh, and it looks like at least one of the pool sections is deflating, sigh...

J^n

In message , jkn
writes
It is all a pain because none of the connectors fit each other (dunno how the
suggestion of a Schraeder valve is supposed to help, they don't fit either).

I leave one of these attached to my compressed air line for *air
cleaning* jobs.
https://www.google.co.uk/aclk?sa=l&a...qgFAGHZuECmQYA
BAFGgJkZw&sig=AOD64_19zTRQvQFyGtmTxbXxRyeAmwEoVQ&c type=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwi6
0bra9YnrAhUNV8AKHVjsBa8Q9aACegQIDRBf&adurl=

That's an address and 3 quarters!

Fitted my pool inlets OK.

--
Tim Lamb

On 07/08/2020 20:31, jkn wrote:
You can get 12V ones, mains ones, and 'AC/DC' ones.
They all seem to be the same kind of pump. either powered from 230V, or 12V,
or 12V with a wall wart adapter.

It was a few years ago, but I decided to get a 230V ("high volume) one,
'cos if I was at home I could just plug it in, and if camping, I could
run it off a cheap 150W inverter I bought, also frol Lidl Pidl. It's
blown up a few air beds and paddling pools in its time!

On 07/08/2020 10:58, jkn wrote:
Hi all

I have been trying to use a LidlAldi car tyre inflator to pump up a large child's
'play pool'. I realise the pressure/volume match is not a good one, but I'm
being a cheapskate...

I have been trying to power the inflator from the mains via a 12V adapter,
instead of a car battery/lighter socket. I tried two different PSU adapters: one
rated 12V/1.5A and the other 12V/4A.

My Halfords tyre inflator draws 6A.

Bill

On 07/08/2020 16:02, T i m wrote:

The scooter (handily) uses unique connectors throughout (so you can't
connect the wrong things together) but from previous experience I've
found it difficult to get the same connectors as they use

Do you mean three pin XLR connectors? That's the usual type for scooters.

https://cpc.farnell.com/w/c/cable-le...results?st=XLR

Incidentally the little gadgets made to immobilise the scooter so you
can take it on a plane are a right rip. They are just an XLR with two
pins shorted out. £20!

https://www.livingmadeeasy.org.uk/mo...nformation.htm

Bill

Tim Lamb wrote:

https://www.google.co.uk/aclk?sa=l&a...qgFAGHZuECmQYA
BAFGgJkZw&sig=AOD64_19zTRQvQFyGtmTxbXxRyeAmwEoVQ&c type=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwi6
0bra9YnrAhUNV8AKHVjsBa8Q9aACegQIDRBf&adurl=

That's an address and 3 quarters!

Well, it's mainly unnecessary crud

https://ebay.co.uk/i/392497661965

On Friday, August 7, 2020 at 11:46:44 PM UTC+1, Chris Bacon wrote:
On 07/08/2020 20:31, jkn wrote:
You can get 12V ones, mains ones, and 'AC/DC' ones.
They all seem to be the same kind of pump. either powered from 230V, or 12V,
or 12V with a wall wart adapter.

It was a few years ago, but I decided to get a 230V ("high volume) one,
'cos if I was at home I could just plug it in, and if camping, I could
run it off a cheap 150W inverter I bought, also frol Lidl Pidl. It's
blown up a few air beds and paddling pools in its time!

I think that is going to be my plan ... I *think* I already have an inverter
similar to that, must check...

Clive Arthur Wrote in message:
On 07/08/2020 10:58, jkn wrote:
Hi all

I have been trying to use a LidlAldi car tyre inflator to pump up a large child's
'play pool'. I realise the pressure/volume match is not a good one, but I'm
being a cheapskate...

I have been trying to power the inflator from the mains via a 12V adapter,
instead of a car battery/lighter socket. I tried two different PSU adapters: one
rated 12V/1.5A and the other 12V/4A.

Neither was much of a success; the inflater barely worked and kept 'conking out'.
It runs fine from the 12V car socket.

I am guessing that least part of the trouble is that both supplies were
switch-mode, intended for fairly linear loads. From the 'put-put' noise of the
inflator I imagine it is an impulse type design with highly varying load.

I'm really musing if anyone else has done anything like this, and whether it is worth me trying a different (linear) adapter? I have probably thrown a few
Transformer-based 12V adapters away recently ;-(.

(I have pumped up the pool regardless, this is for 'next time').

Thanks
J^n

A tyre inflator will be designed for use for short periods, not for the
length of time to inflate a pool. It may well overheat.

How long does it take to inflate say a sporty Audi's tyre?

--
Jimk


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

jkn Wrote in message:
On Friday, August 7, 2020 at 4:25:37 PM UTC+1, Chris Bacon wrote:
On 07/08/2020 10:58, jkn wrote:
I have been trying to use a LidlAldi car tyre inflator to pump up a large child's
'play pool'. I realise the pressure/volume match is not a good one, but I'm
being a cheapskate...

(I have pumped up the pool regardless, this is for 'next time').

As a matter of interest, did you give up on the car tyre inflator (in
which year?), and use some other inflating thing? He asked him, kindly?

I have a Lidl blower-upper for air beds and paddling pools and things,
which shifts air quicker than; well, quickly.

Hi Chris
I ended up (this time) taking the mountain to Mohammed, and sited the pool
next to the car (this is not always possible). Then I alternated between the
inflater running off the lighter socket, and a manual 'Dual Action' pump ...
that I had started with defore heading down this path.

I alternated mainly to keep the duty cycle down on the tyre inflater, I was wary
of it overheating. An also the manual pump gives a lot more air per cylinder's
worth.

It is all a pain because none of the connectors fit each other (dunno how the
suggestion of a Schraeder valve is supposed to help, they don't fit either).

I too a bit more of a look at the pump actually intended for the high volume/low
regime we are in here. You can get 12V ones, mains ones, and 'AC/DC' ones.
They all seem to be the same kind of pump. either powered from 230V, or 12V,
or 12V with a wall wart adapter.

Typical advertised rating is in the 120W--180W range. I was amused to be able
to read on the photo of the low voltage adapter for one of these: "12V 500mA" !!
I am thinking of picking up a 12V version and using that with one of my 'gash'
adapters. I was trying to avoid buying ''stuff' though...

I too hate cigarette lighters, for several reasons. I also might look into the
torberry connectors.

Oh, and it looks like at least one of the pool sections is deflating, sigh...

J^n



I have used the output of my earlex combi vac in the past for
airbeds etc with simple "mouth valves", worked a treat if noisy!

--
Jimk


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On Friday, August 7, 2020 at 11:59:12 AM UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Theo
writes
jkn wrote:
I am guessing that least part of the trouble is that both supplies were
switch-mode, intended for fairly linear loads. From the 'put-put'
noise of the
inflator I imagine it is an impulse type design with highly varying load.

I'm really musing if anyone else has done anything like this, and whether
it is worth me trying a different (linear) adapter? I have probably
thrown a few Transformer-based 12V adapters away recently ;-(.

I don't imagine a linear wallwart is going to help - taking large gulps of
current is likely to just cause the transformer to saturate, so it still
can't deliver the current.

You could try some chunky capacitors across the output of your 12V/4A supply
- they might be able to buffer the current gulps. Some linear PSUs (eg in
bench supplies and hifi gear) already have such large capacitors, while
wallwarts probably don't.

Also, power supplies from the Playstation 3 go up to 32A @ 12V, are fanless,
and available on ebay for under a tenner:
https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Power_Supply
(similarly power supplies from old servers, but they tend to howl)

I know this is d-i-y but I have been very impressed with a £12.00 pool
inflator from Homebase but I guess elsewhere as well. Faster than using
my workshop compressor!

Ozito by Einhell 130Watt.

--
Tim Lamb

Hi Tim
I actually picked up one of those at the weekend - and after about half an hour of experimenting it went back to Homebase for a refund.

- the nozzles didn't fit the pool intakes (grr...)
- I don't like the mains cable close to the water (the pool was partially
filled at the time)
- It got awfully hot, not quite too hot to hold, but not far off
- what are those two small holes near the inflate outlet for? to ensure minimum
outflow for the air? No mentioned in the 'manual', but didn't inspire me with
confidence
- even with a Heath-Robinson arrangments of 'fitting' nozzles, it hardly seemed
to work. I ended up reverting to my manual pump and three arms to hold
everything.

I appreciate that the one you suggested is likely no bettor or worse than all
the others for sale in AldiLidl, eBay etc. I wouldn't mind spending a bit more
for something that actually di the job, sigh...

Cheers
Jon N

On Sat, 8 Aug 2020 07:15:44 +0100, williamwright
wrote:

On 07/08/2020 16:02, T i m wrote:

The scooter (handily) uses unique connectors throughout (so you can't
connect the wrong things together) but from previous experience I've
found it difficult to get the same connectors as they use

Do you mean three pin XLR connectors? That's the usual type for scooters.

https://cpc.farnell.com/w/c/cable-le...results?st=XLR

Yeah, they are normally what they use for charging, or a 1/4" stereo
jack, but they weren't the connectors I was referring to here. It's a
bigger, square, two pin m/f spade locking gendered shell, possibly a
30A 'Lucar' type in this case that I was hoping to break into with the
power logger.

Eg, I have to put the logger in series into the connector where the
24V joins the buggy (+Ve / -Ve). If I could get the same connectors
they use, I could fit them to the tails that come on the logger and be
sure I plug it in the right way round and it doesn't fall out /
disconnect etc. If I *can't* get a plug / socket to match the
existing, I could change out both connectors for ones I can source
easily and also put them on the logger etc. XT90's or SB50's etc.

Incidentally the little gadgets made to immobilise the scooter so you
can take it on a plane are a right rip. They are just an XLR with two
pins shorted out. £20!

https://www.livingmadeeasy.org.uk/mo...nformation.htm

Interesting and thanks. 20 quid doesn't seem a lot for a (magic)
'mobility' spare part. ;-(

Cheers, T i m

[1] On this scooter, each 12V 50Ah (fin heavy) battery has it's own
mini h/d loom, one having the fuse and an extra /
different-but-similar locking-shell spade connector. You first plug
the two batteries together (giving 24V with a fuse in the joining
link) and then the second connector with the similar plug, joins the
24V to the buggy loom (with one leg first going to the thermal
reset-able fuse).

In message , jkn
writes
On Friday, August 7, 2020 at 11:59:12 AM UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:

I know this is d-i-y but I have been very impressed with a £12.00 pool
inflator from Homebase but I guess elsewhere as well. Faster than using
my workshop compressor!

Ozito by Einhell 130Watt.

--
Tim Lamb

Hi Tim
I actually picked up one of those at the weekend - and after about
half an hour of experimenting it went back to Homebase for a refund.
OH! Sorry

- the nozzles didn't fit the pool intakes (grr...)
- I don't like the mains cable close to the water (the pool was partially
filled at the time)
- It got awfully hot, not quite too hot to hold, but not far off
- what are those two small holes near the inflate outlet for? to ensure minimum
outflow for the air? No mentioned in the 'manual', but didn't
inspire me with
confidence
I guess to maintain some cooling flow if you leave it running against a
filled pool.
- even with a Heath-Robinson arrangments of 'fitting' nozzles, it hardly seemed
to work. I ended up reverting to my manual pump and three arms to hold
everything.

I appreciate that the one you suggested is likely no bettor or worse than all
the others for sale in AldiLidl, eBay etc. I wouldn't mind spending a bit more
for something that actually di the job, sigh...

A simple centrifugal fan is never going pump against significant back
pressure. Our pool has 2 air chambers, each about 450mm dia. and around
7m long. Takes less than a minute to fill each to the point where the
pump is struggling to move more air. I guess the pressure might be 0.5
bar over atmospheric.

It appears your pool has a requirement for much higher pressure air.

--
Tim Lamb