In message , Andy Hall
writes

The 70/71 date is because I changed schools at that time, and I
happen to recall all these strange adapters vanished about the
same time. Maybe it was in anticipation of the legal changes?


There was a much more serious problem. Mars bars went up from 4d to
4p in about three months......

Then they announced (with a fanfare) their new size.

It was smaller.

I can't remember, did they turn them upside down like they did with
Wagon Wheels to make them look bigger?

--
geoff

On Sun, 05 Sep 2004 23:14:50 GMT, raden wrote:

In message , Andy Hall
writes

The 70/71 date is because I changed schools at that time, and I
happen to recall all these strange adapters vanished about the
same time. Maybe it was in anticipation of the legal changes?


There was a much more serious problem. Mars bars went up from 4d to
4p in about three months......

Then they announced (with a fanfare) their new size.

It was smaller.

I can't remember, did they turn them upside down like they did with
Wagon Wheels to make them look bigger?


They increased the area and decreased the depth.

The "new size" flash was on the top.


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

15A ones are still very widely used in the theater now. We have fusing at
one point (at the dimmers) for each circuit and fuses per plug etc would be
a total nightmare!

About the only manurfacturer for them is Duraplug. Plugs are around £3.50ea
and the trailing sockets £5.

And no matter how many times you wire 'em up, you *still* forget to slip
the cover over the cable before neatly wiring up the three cores about
20% of the time, right? ;-)

Mike Clarke wrote:

* There were some really weird plugs with a central round earth
pin and flat power pins to either side of it. They came in 2 (or
more ?) different sizes and ratings. The larger ones had a
socket for a lower rating built into the cover so you could
piggy back a smaller plug off them. ISTR the plugs had cartridge
fuses and were designed in such a way that the lower rated ones
could also be inserted into higher rated sockets.

Weird nothing ;-) A fine design, the Wylex stackable. As you say, the
plugs did indeed have their own cartridge fuses, with physically smaller
fuses (3A? 5A?) for the physically-smaller plugs, so that the (ab)user
couldn't fit a 13A fuse into the smaller plug.

Mind you, I don't think that Wylex ever produced a version of either the
wall socket or the larger plug-with-integral-socket-on-the-back which
had shutters on the L and N holes; but vague memory alleges that they
did produce, in the late 60s/early 70s, plugs with part-sleeved pins.

Stefek

"Stefek Zaba" wrote in message
...

15A ones are still very widely used in the theater now. We have fusing
at
one point (at the dimmers) for each circuit and fuses per plug etc would
be
a total nightmare!

About the only manurfacturer for them is Duraplug. Plugs are around
£3.50ea
and the trailing sockets £5.

And no matter how many times you wire 'em up, you *still* forget to slip
the cover over the cable before neatly wiring up the three cores about
20% of the time, right? ;-)

How did you know that?!?! ;--)

Tim..

"Stefek Zaba" wrote in message
...

[ re Duraplug. Plugs ]

And no matter how many times you wire 'em up, you *still* forget to slip
the cover over the cable before neatly wiring up the three cores about
20% of the time, right? ;-)


I wish I had got 5 quid each time I came across people who had done just
that and then cut the rubber to instead of starting again !...

In article , Stefek Zaba s-nilnews-
writes

15A ones are still very widely used in the theater now. We have fusing at
one point (at the dimmers) for each circuit and fuses per plug etc would be
a total nightmare!

About the only manurfacturer for them is Duraplug. Plugs are around £3.50ea
and the trailing sockets £5.

And no matter how many times you wire 'em up, you *still* forget to slip
the cover over the cable before neatly wiring up the three cores about
20% of the time, right? ;-)

The newer Duraplug ones have been modified so that you put the cover on
in the "normal" way.

--
Frank Erskine

In article , Dave Plowman (News)
writes
In article ,
:::Jerry:::: wrote:

And no matter how many times you wire 'em up, you *still* forget to slip
the cover over the cable before neatly wiring up the three cores about
20% of the time, right? ;-)


I wish I had got 5 quid each time I came across people who had done just
that and then cut the rubber to instead of starting again !...

Modern 13 amp Duraplugs have got round this, though.

13A?

--
Frank Erskine

In article , ":::Jerry::::"
wrote:


"Stefek Zaba" wrote in message
...

[ re Duraplug. Plugs ]

And no matter how many times you wire 'em up, you *still* forget to slip
the cover over the cable before neatly wiring up the three cores about
20% of the time, right? ;-)


I wish I had got 5 quid each time I came across people who had done just
that and then cut the rubber to instead of starting again !...

When I did some stage lighting work in the 60's our supplier would
provide them ready cut if desired.

--
Mike Clarke

Mike said the following:
Most other posts apply but in summary:

If it 5A (or possibly 2A but I suspect not) and is switched by a fixed
light switch somewhere nearby then it is probably safe to use for a light.

If it is anything else then it probably isn't safe.

Neat summary :-) Thanks to everyone for your advice and suggestions,
both on and off the newsgroup. The building I'm in dates back to the
13th century, but I suspect the electrical wiring is more recent ;-)
Nevertheless, I would imagine it's fairly old, and so I don't think I'm
going to take the risk of randomly plugging things into it...

Thanks,
Stuart.

In article ,
Stuart Bell wrote:
Neat summary :-) Thanks to everyone for your advice and suggestions,
both on and off the newsgroup. The building I'm in dates back to the
13th century, but I suspect the electrical wiring is more recent ;-)
Nevertheless, I would imagine it's fairly old, and so I don't think I'm
going to take the risk of randomly plugging things into it...

Turn *everything* off at the main switch(es). Remove one of the round pin
sockets and examine the wiring. If it's PVC and the earth is connected,
they're probably fine. If it's rubber, with or without an earth, seek pro
help. Although it is possible they've just been left there after a re-wire
to save repairing the holes.

--
*I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ...
In article ,
Stuart Bell wrote:
Neat summary :-) Thanks to everyone for your advice and suggestions,
both on and off the newsgroup. The building I'm in dates back to the
13th century, but I suspect the electrical wiring is more recent ;-)
Nevertheless, I would imagine it's fairly old, and so I don't think I'm
going to take the risk of randomly plugging things into it...

Turn *everything* off at the main switch(es). Remove one of the round pin
sockets and examine the wiring. If it's PVC and the earth is connected,
they're probably fine. If it's rubber, with or without an earth, seek pro
help. Although it is possible they've just been left there after a re-wire
to save repairing the holes.


Dont do this, as any movement of perished rubber wiring, even by half
an inch, is liable to result in a fire. You can judge the age just by
looking at the sockets. If theyre brown, arent square, and possibly
mounted on their own contoured plinths, its ancient. If theyre white
and square, same size as a modern single socket, its modern.

Regards, NT

In article ,
N. Thornton wrote:
Turn *everything* off at the main switch(es). Remove one of the round
pin sockets and examine the wiring. If it's PVC and the earth is
connected, they're probably fine. If it's rubber, with or without an
earth, seek pro help. Although it is possible they've just been left
there after a re-wire to save repairing the holes.


Dont do this, as any movement of perished rubber wiring, even by half
an inch, is liable to result in a fire.

Which part of 'turn everything off' didn't you read? ;-)

You can judge the age just by
looking at the sockets. If theyre brown, arent square, and possibly
mounted on their own contoured plinths, its ancient. If theyre white
and square, same size as a modern single socket, its modern.

It's possible the wiring has been replaced without the sockets themselves.
And, of course, the reverse. Take nothing for granted with electrics.
Always check - or have things checked - if you have any suspicions.

--
*We waste time, so you don't have to *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article ,
N. Thornton wrote:

You can judge the age just by
looking at the sockets. If theyre brown, arent square, and possibly
mounted on their own contoured plinths, its ancient. If theyre white
and square, same size as a modern single socket, its modern.

It's possible the wiring has been replaced without the sockets themselves.
And, of course, the reverse. Take nothing for granted with electrics.
Always check - or have things checked - if you have any suspicions.

Indeed, our house (we bought 97) all had switches dating from probably
mid 1960's, but the lighting circuit wiring was all original 1930's.
Also where there hadn't been enough 1930's cable to wire in the new
switch, they had extended the cable with new cable attached to the old
behind the back box so it looked at first glance like new cables as
well.
--
Chris French, Leeds

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ...
In article ,
N. Thornton wrote:
Turn *everything* off at the main switch(es). Remove one of the round
pin sockets and examine the wiring. If it's PVC and the earth is
connected, they're probably fine. If it's rubber, with or without an
earth, seek pro help. Although it is possible they've just been left
there after a re-wire to save repairing the holes.


Dont do this, as any movement of perished rubber wiring, even by half
an inch, is liable to result in a fire.

Which part of 'turn everything off' didn't you read? ;-)

fairly obvious i read it. People who arent aware of this problem are
liable to turn off, inspect, then turn on. Really.

In article ,
N. Thornton wrote:
Dont do this, as any movement of perished rubber wiring, even by half
an inch, is liable to result in a fire.

Which part of 'turn everything off' didn't you read? ;-)

fairly obvious i read it. People who arent aware of this problem are
liable to turn off, inspect, then turn on. Really.

Not much point in inspecting if you don't know what you're looking for?
Old rubber if perished will fall off by removing the socket - or at least
look very shabby. I'd not expect anyone to put it back and switch on in
this state.

--
*It is wrong to ever split an infinitive *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ...

look very shabby. I'd not expect anyone to put it back and switch on in
this state.

most do.

NT

In article ,
N. Thornton wrote:
look very shabby. I'd not expect anyone to put it back and switch on in
this state.

most do.

Then let Darwin's run its course.

--
*Being healthy is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ...
In article ,
N. Thornton wrote:
look very shabby. I'd not expect anyone to put it back and switch on in
this state.

most do.

Then let Darwin's run its course.

dont think thats good advice either Could be your own kid. Or will
be someone elses.

NT