Recently moved into a new house - wife and I both experiencing
problems with dry skin for first time in our lives! We think it's
caused by a very dry atmosphere in the house. Obvious steps like
keeping lots of windows open aren't having any immediate effect,
although we've only been there for a week.

Anyone out there have similar problems with a dry atmosphere?

I know that previous owners used to run a dehumidifier regularly - I'm
speculating whether this can in some way dry out the fabric of the
house to the extent that it takes a while to get back to normal.

Cheers

"John Andrews" wrote in message
om...
Recently moved into a new house - wife and I both experiencing
problems with dry skin for first time in our lives! We think it's
caused by a very dry atmosphere in the house. Obvious steps like
keeping lots of windows open aren't having any immediate effect,
although we've only been there for a week.

Over the past week, the atmosphere has been very dry just about everywhere
in the UK. You have to scrape the moisture it used to contain off the car
windows of a morning. Warm that air up to room temperature and its relative
humidity plummets. Try using a plant misting spray around the house to push
up the humidity.

Colin Bignell

Hi John

"John Andrews" wrote in message
om...
Recently moved into a new house - wife and I both experiencing
problems with dry skin for first time in our lives! We think it's
caused by a very dry atmosphere in the house. Obvious steps like
keeping lots of windows open aren't having any immediate effect,
although we've only been there for a week.

Do you have any live plants, they're excelent for controlling humidity in
dry'ish houses, just keep them well watered and they should get the humidity
up to descent levels in no time.

You could also go for a special humidifier controlled by a humidistat and
set the relative humidity to about 45-55 %, that should be the best humidity
according to all the experts.


I have lots of live plants, underfloor heating and good ventilation, so i
can keep the humidity about 50%. I do have a dehumidifier running on a
humidistat that cut out below 50% humidity if the humidity gets to high and
that works excelent.

You could also start drying your clothes inside your house that will soon
get the humifity up :-)


I know that previous owners used to run a dehumidifier regularly - I'm
speculating whether this can in some way dry out the fabric of the
house to the extent that it takes a while to get back to normal.

I guess it could do that, but you would have to run the house pretty dry to
do that and then you would get all sorts of problems with warping floors,
doors and wooden furniture, plus it would be pretty unconftable live in if
the humidity gets to much below 20%


How hot is your house?


/Morten



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Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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John Andrews wrote:
Recently moved into a new house - wife and I both experiencing
problems with dry skin for first time in our lives! We think it's
caused by a very dry atmosphere in the house. Obvious steps like
keeping lots of windows open aren't having any immediate effect,
although we've only been there for a week.

Anyone out there have similar problems with a dry atmosphere?

I know that previous owners used to run a dehumidifier regularly - I'm
speculating whether this can in some way dry out the fabric of the
house to the extent that it takes a while to get back to normal.

Cheers

Is this a wind up?
You should think yourselves lucky that you have a nice dry house.
Most people have problems the other way with damp & mold etc.

Maybe you are reptiles that need to keep their skin damp?
Why not pile earth over your damp course and make the walls nice and damp?

Hi,

You could raise the humidity by drying your washing on an airer, or
simmering a pan of water on the stove. There are also ultrasonic
humidifiers but they aren't cheap.

Dry skin can also be partly caused by other things such as hot
showers. To see how dry it is, get a hygrometer from somewhere like
Maplins, mine reads 40% at the moment which is below the usual 50-55%.

cheers,
Pete.

On 3 Mar 2004 02:43:57 -0800, (John Andrews)
wrote:

Recently moved into a new house - wife and I both experiencing
problems with dry skin for first time in our lives! We think it's
caused by a very dry atmosphere in the house. Obvious steps like
keeping lots of windows open aren't having any immediate effect,
although we've only been there for a week.

Anyone out there have similar problems with a dry atmosphere?

I know that previous owners used to run a dehumidifier regularly - I'm
speculating whether this can in some way dry out the fabric of the
house to the extent that it takes a while to get back to normal.

Cheers

Pete C wrote:
Dry skin can also be partly caused by other things such as hot
showers.

That reminds me - hard water can cause dry skin in some cases.



--
Chris
-----
Spamtrap in force: to email replace 127.0.0.1 with blueyonder.co.uk

Thanks for everyone's replies. I will take the steps suggested to
humidify the house (which isn't particularly warm).
No we are not reptiles, but I did check. Yes, I know it's ironic to
have this problem, when usually folks have problems with damp (me too
in the past), but believe me it's a real enough problem.

Cheers

(John Andrews) wrote:

Hello John

JA| Anyone out there have similar problems with a dry
JA| atmosphere?

Curious timing - yes.

Only not to skin. We have a lot of pine panelling in this house, both
walls and ceiling. Heard it cracking behind the sofa last week and
noticed two big joints seperating in the kitchen ceiling. Figured it
was shrinkage so checked the humidistat - 45% whereas it's normally
55-60% here.

Then it twigged... The wife's been home for 6 weeks nursing a broken
pelvis and she's had the heating on 24/7...

--
Simon Avery, Dartmoor, UK
uk.d-i-y FAQ: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/

Simon Avery wrote

JA| Anyone out there have similar problems with a dry
JA| atmosphere?

Curious timing - yes.

Only not to skin. We have a lot of pine panelling in this house, both
walls and ceiling. Heard it cracking behind the sofa last week and
noticed two big joints seperating in the kitchen ceiling. Figured it
was shrinkage so checked the humidistat - 45% whereas it's normally
55-60% here.

Then it twigged... The wife's been home for 6 weeks nursing a broken
pelvis and she's had the heating on 24/7...

Boing!!! (That was the penny dropping)

Every winter the skin on my hands becomes dry and cracked. In the past I've put
this down to mucking about with plaster and cement etc. This year it is really
bad - several areas of skin like old boots, splits, extremely sore and often
bleeding. Been putting E45 etc on twice a day - makes it more supple but
doesn't cure it. And I haven't touched any plaster or cement since September.
Been really puzzled (and worried) about what's causing it. Never thought of the
CH - I've been working at home with the heating on since October too. Thank you
so much Simon.

Peter

Simon Avery wrote:

(John Andrews) wrote:

Hello John


JA| Anyone out there have similar problems with a dry
JA| atmosphere?


Curious timing - yes.

Only not to skin. We have a lot of pine panelling in this house, both
walls and ceiling. Heard it cracking behind the sofa last week and
noticed two big joints seperating in the kitchen ceiling. Figured it
was shrinkage so checked the humidistat - 45% whereas it's normally
55-60% here.

Then it twigged... The wife's been home for 6 weeks nursing a broken
pelvis and she's had the heating on 24/7...



Winter is always the time of lowest humidity indoors, because the air
gets heated the most. Cold frosty weather is the very worst.

I see significant summer to winter shrinkage on all woodwork.

Peter Taylor wrote:

Simon Avery wrote


JA| Anyone out there have similar problems with a dry
JA| atmosphere?

Curious timing - yes.

Only not to skin. We have a lot of pine panelling in this house, both
walls and ceiling. Heard it cracking behind the sofa last week and
noticed two big joints seperating in the kitchen ceiling. Figured it
was shrinkage so checked the humidistat - 45% whereas it's normally
55-60% here.

Then it twigged... The wife's been home for 6 weeks nursing a broken
pelvis and she's had the heating on 24/7...


Boing!!! (That was the penny dropping)

Every winter the skin on my hands becomes dry and cracked. In the past I've put
this down to mucking about with plaster and cement etc. This year it is really
bad - several areas of skin like old boots, splits, extremely sore and often
bleeding. Been putting E45 etc on twice a day - makes it more supple but
doesn't cure it. And I haven't touched any plaster or cement since September.
Been really puzzled (and worried) about what's causing it. Never thought of the
CH - I've been working at home with the heating on since October too. Thank you
so much Simon.



Just boil some water up. That makes it steamier. Or have indoor plants
about.


Peter

"Pete C" wrote in message
...
Hi,

You could raise the humidity by drying your washing on an airer, or
simmering a pan of water on the stove. There are also ultrasonic
humidifiers but they aren't cheap.

Dry skin can also be partly caused by other things such as hot
showers. To see how dry it is, get a hygrometer from somewhere like
Maplins, mine reads 40% at the moment which is below the usual 50-55%.

In cold winter weather humidity levels drop.

"Peter Taylor" wrote in message
...
Simon Avery wrote

JA| Anyone out there have similar problems with a dry
JA| atmosphere?

Curious timing - yes.

Only not to skin. We have a lot of pine panelling in this house, both
walls and ceiling. Heard it cracking behind the sofa last week and
noticed two big joints seperating in the kitchen ceiling. Figured it
was shrinkage so checked the humidistat - 45% whereas it's normally
55-60% here.

Then it twigged... The wife's been home for 6 weeks nursing a broken
pelvis and she's had the heating on 24/7...

Boing!!! (That was the penny dropping)

Every winter the skin on my hands becomes dry and cracked. In the past
I've put
this down to mucking about with plaster and cement etc. This year it is
really
bad - several areas of skin like old boots, splits, extremely sore and
often
bleeding. Been putting E45 etc on twice a day - makes it more supple but
doesn't cure it. And I haven't touched any plaster or cement since
September.
Been really puzzled (and worried) about what's causing it. Never thought
of the
CH - I've been working at home with the heating on since October too.
Thank you
so much Simon.

Then you should put in a forced air and heat recovery system with a simple
humidifier. Sorted.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote
| I see significant summer to winter shrinkage on all woodwork.

I have noticed significantly squeakier-than-usual floorboards for the last
few months. I wonder if it's a consequence of the hot humid summer last
year.

Owain

On Fri, 5 Mar 2004 15:15:58 -0000, "Owain"
wrote:

I have noticed significantly squeakier-than-usual floorboards for the last
few months. I wonder if it's a consequence of the hot humid summer last
year.

Apparently the summer of 2003 was the hottest for 500 years:

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/3536819.stm

PoP

---
If you need to contact me please submit your comments
via the web form at http://www.anyoldtripe.co.uk. I'll
probably still ignore you but at least I'll get the
message.....

"PoP" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 5 Mar 2004 15:15:58 -0000, "Owain"
wrote:

I have noticed significantly squeakier-than-usual floorboards for the
last
few months. I wonder if it's a consequence of the hot humid summer last
year.

Apparently the summer of 2003 was the hottest for 500 years:

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/3536819.stm

Yeah, I noticed, I was comming back to UK from main Europe the day where the
temperature reached 40+ degrees celcius at 20:30 in Kent and the thermometer
in my car showed 42 degrees celcius in the tunnel and 43 degrees celcius
when we came out on the other side. I was very glad that my car has air
conditioner that day after travelling more than 1200 miles in one day...

It was a joy to be able to start the engine again whne we got outsode the
tunnel...


/Morten





---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.611 / Virus Database: 391 - Release Date: 03/03/2004

On Fri, 5 Mar 2004 11:36:40 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Pete C" wrote in message
.. .
Hi,

You could raise the humidity by drying your washing on an airer, or
simmering a pan of water on the stove. There are also ultrasonic
humidifiers but they aren't cheap.

Dry skin can also be partly caused by other things such as hot
showers. To see how dry it is, get a hygrometer from somewhere like
Maplins, mine reads 40% at the moment which is below the usual 50-55%.

In cold winter weather humidity levels drop.


Indoors. I know.

Have you bodged your sash windows yet...?

cheers,
Pete.

"Pete C" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 5 Mar 2004 11:36:40 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Pete C" wrote in message
.. .
Hi,

You could raise the humidity by drying your washing on an airer, or
simmering a pan of water on the stove. There are also ultrasonic
humidifiers but they aren't cheap.

Dry skin can also be partly caused by other things such as hot
showers. To see how dry it is, get a hygrometer from somewhere like
Maplins, mine reads 40% at the moment which is below the usual 50-55%.

In cold winter weather humidity levels drop.

Indoors. I know.

Have you bodged your sash windows yet...?

Doing that this weekend.

"IMM" wrote in message
...

"Pete C" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 5 Mar 2004 11:36:40 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Pete C" wrote in message
.. .
Hi,

You could raise the humidity by drying your washing on an airer, or
simmering a pan of water on the stove. There are also ultrasonic
humidifiers but they aren't cheap.

Dry skin can also be partly caused by other things such as hot
showers. To see how dry it is, get a hygrometer from somewhere like
Maplins, mine reads 40% at the moment which is below the usual
50-55%.

In cold winter weather humidity levels drop.

Indoors. I know.

Have you bodged your sash windows yet...?

Doing that this weekend.

I found that the rot in my window is so very bad. It is on the bottom piece
of a lower sash near the tongue and grooved joint one side in a Georgian
window. The bottom piece broke lose on one side. An Isopon bodge would do
nothing by itself. What I did was use galvanised metal roof stays strip.
This is about 1" thick and long with holes in it. I cut it the width of the
window sash and screwed it to the outside making it secure. This also
secure the other side of the joint I then gouged out the rot which more fell
out. It screwed in a few screws to acts a bonding ties. I mixed Isopon
and pasted this stuff in the hole as smooth as possible and painted over the
lot. The rot came about mainly due to old putty failing and water getting
in under it. I took out the old putty and replaced that too. When dry it
was very solid. A bodge no one can see as the window is on the upper
floors. A bodge that will probably last a year or two. I will have to
replace the whole bottom sash in warmer weather.

I may as well have the windows done properly with new cords for the weights
weather sealing done, etc. Anyone know of a good sash window specialist
company in London.

IMM wrote in message ...
I found that the rot in my window is so very bad. It is on the bottom
piece
of a lower sash near the tongue and grooved joint one side in a Georgian
window. The bottom piece broke lose on one side. An Isopon bodge would do
nothing by itself. What I did was use galvanised metal roof stays strip.
This is about 1" thick and long with holes in it. I cut it the width of
the
window sash and screwed it to the outside making it secure.
As long as something metal straddles the joint, preferably below the
surface, there isn't usually a problem with strength and stability. It
doesn't need any fixing once the filler takes hold.

On Mon, 8 Mar 2004 10:40:30 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


I found that the rot in my window is so very bad. It is on the bottom piece
of a lower sash near the tongue and grooved joint one side in a Georgian
window. The bottom piece broke lose on one side. An Isopon bodge would do
nothing by itself. What I did was use galvanised metal roof stays strip.
This is about 1" thick and long with holes in it. I cut it the width of the
window sash and screwed it to the outside making it secure. This also
secure the other side of the joint I then gouged out the rot which more fell
out. It screwed in a few screws to acts a bonding ties. I mixed Isopon
and pasted this stuff in the hole as smooth as possible and painted over the
lot. The rot came about mainly due to old putty failing and water getting
in under it. I took out the old putty and replaced that too. When dry it
was very solid. A bodge no one can see as the window is on the upper
floors. A bodge that will probably last a year or two. I will have to
replace the whole bottom sash in warmer weather.

I may as well have the windows done properly with new cords for the weights
weather sealing done, etc. Anyone know of a good sash window specialist
company in London.




You may be able to find a good sash at a salvage place, or repair the
old sash yourself.

This might be of help:

http://www.sashwindowspecialist.com/

http://www.sashwindowspecialist.com/diyguide.html

http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/rm_door_win...382205,00.html

http://www.easy2diy.com/cm/easy/diy_...ge_id=35694621

http://www.homestore.com/HomeGarden/...oe=hom estore

cheers,
Pete.

"Pete C" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 8 Mar 2004 10:40:30 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


I found that the rot in my window is so very bad. It is on the bottom
piece
of a lower sash near the tongue and grooved joint one side in a Georgian
window. The bottom piece broke lose on one side. An Isopon bodge would
do
nothing by itself. What I did was use galvanised metal roof stays strip.
This is about 1" thick and long with holes in it. I cut it the width of
the
window sash and screwed it to the outside making it secure. This also
secure the other side of the joint I then gouged out the rot which more
fell
out. It screwed in a few screws to acts a bonding ties. I mixed Isopon
and pasted this stuff in the hole as smooth as possible and painted over
the
lot. The rot came about mainly due to old putty failing and water
getting
in under it. I took out the old putty and replaced that too. When dry
it
was very solid. A bodge no one can see as the window is on the upper
floors. A bodge that will probably last a year or two. I will have to
replace the whole bottom sash in warmer weather.

I may as well have the windows done properly with new cords for the
weights
weather sealing done, etc. Anyone know of a good sash window specialist
company in London.




You may be able to find a good sash at a salvage place, or repair the
old sash yourself.

This might be of help:

http://www.sashwindowspecialist.com/

http://www.sashwindowspecialist.com/diyguide.html


http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/rm_door_win...97,HGTV_3687_1
382205,00.html

http://www.easy2diy.com/cm/easy/diy_...ge_id=35694621


http://www.homestore.com/HomeGarden/...Tos/CRHO_Windo
wsInstallingSashRecplacement.asp?poe=homestore

cheers,
Pete.

thanks

On Mon, 8 Mar 2004 22:46:34 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Pete C" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 8 Mar 2004 10:40:30 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


I found that the rot in my window is so very bad. It is on the bottom
piece
of a lower sash near the tongue and grooved joint one side in a Georgian
window. The bottom piece broke lose on one side. An Isopon bodge would
do
nothing by itself. What I did was use galvanised metal roof stays strip.
This is about 1" thick and long with holes in it. I cut it the width of
the
window sash and screwed it to the outside making it secure. This also
secure the other side of the joint I then gouged out the rot which more
fell
out. It screwed in a few screws to acts a bonding ties. I mixed Isopon
and pasted this stuff in the hole as smooth as possible and painted over
the
lot. The rot came about mainly due to old putty failing and water
getting
in under it. I took out the old putty and replaced that too. When dry
it
was very solid. A bodge no one can see as the window is on the upper
floors. A bodge that will probably last a year or two. I will have to
replace the whole bottom sash in warmer weather.

I may as well have the windows done properly with new cords for the
weights
weather sealing done, etc. Anyone know of a good sash window specialist
company in London.



Ummm...... so why hasn't the place been demolished, or at least had
the windows replaced with triple glazed ones....???




..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 8 Mar 2004 22:46:34 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Pete C" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 8 Mar 2004 10:40:30 -0000, "IMM"
wrote:


I found that the rot in my window is so very bad. It is on the
bottom
piece
of a lower sash near the tongue and grooved joint one side in a
Georgian
window. The bottom piece broke lose on one side. An Isopon bodge
would
do
nothing by itself. What I did was use galvanised metal roof stays
strip.
This is about 1" thick and long with holes in it. I cut it the
width of
the
window sash and screwed it to the outside making it secure. This
also
secure the other side of the joint I then gouged out the rot which
more
fell
out. It screwed in a few screws to acts a bonding ties. I mixed
Isopon
and pasted this stuff in the hole as smooth as possible and
painted over
the
lot. The rot came about mainly due to old putty failing and water
getting
in under it. I took out the old putty and replaced that too.
When dry
it
was very solid. A bodge no one can see as the window is on the
upper
floors. A bodge that will probably last a year or two. I will
have to
replace the whole bottom sash in warmer weather.

I may as well have the windows done properly with new cords for
the
weights
weather sealing done, etc. Anyone know of a good sash window
specialist
company in London.



Ummm...... so why hasn't the place been demolished, or at least had
the windows replaced with triple glazed ones....???




No need to do that - just add an extra 400mm of loft insulation :-)

Neil

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 8 Mar 2004 22:46:34 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Pete C" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 8 Mar 2004 10:40:30 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


I found that the rot in my window is so very bad. It is on the bottom
piece
of a lower sash near the tongue and grooved joint one side in a
Georgian
window. The bottom piece broke lose on one side. An Isopon bodge
would
do
nothing by itself. What I did was use galvanised metal roof stays
strip.
This is about 1" thick and long with holes in it. I cut it the width
of
the
window sash and screwed it to the outside making it secure. This also
secure the other side of the joint I then gouged out the rot which
more
fell
out. It screwed in a few screws to acts a bonding ties. I mixed
Isopon
and pasted this stuff in the hole as smooth as possible and painted
over
the
lot. The rot came about mainly due to old putty failing and water
getting
in under it. I took out the old putty and replaced that too. When
dry
it
was very solid. A bodge no one can see as the window is on the upper
floors. A bodge that will probably last a year or two. I will have
to
replace the whole bottom sash in warmer weather.

I may as well have the windows done properly with new cords for the
weights
weather sealing done, etc. Anyone know of a good sash window
specialist
company in London.

Ummm...... so why hasn't the place been demolished,

Of course, this is a very serious option for defective windows.

or at least had the windows replaced with
triple glazed ones....???

This is an option. There is also protection order on the outside of the
building, with all windows looking having to look the same.

"Neil Jones" wrote in message
...

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 8 Mar 2004 22:46:34 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Pete C" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 8 Mar 2004 10:40:30 -0000, "IMM"
wrote:


I found that the rot in my window is so very bad. It is on the
bottom
piece
of a lower sash near the tongue and grooved joint one side in a
Georgian
window. The bottom piece broke lose on one side. An Isopon bodge
would
do
nothing by itself. What I did was use galvanised metal roof stays
strip.
This is about 1" thick and long with holes in it. I cut it the
width of
the
window sash and screwed it to the outside making it secure. This
also
secure the other side of the joint I then gouged out the rot which
more
fell
out. It screwed in a few screws to acts a bonding ties. I mixed
Isopon
and pasted this stuff in the hole as smooth as possible and
painted over
the
lot. The rot came about mainly due to old putty failing and water
getting
in under it. I took out the old putty and replaced that too.
When dry
it
was very solid. A bodge no one can see as the window is on the
upper
floors. A bodge that will probably last a year or two. I will
have to
replace the whole bottom sash in warmer weather.

I may as well have the windows done properly with new cords for
the
weights
weather sealing done, etc. Anyone know of a good sash window
specialist
company in London.

Ummm...... so why hasn't the place been demolished, or at least had
the windows replaced with triple glazed ones....???

No need to do that - just add an extra 400mm of loft insulation :-)

Very good suggestion. I'm this will rectify the defective windows.

On Tue, 9 Mar 2004 10:46:15 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 8 Mar 2004 22:46:34 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


Ummm...... so why hasn't the place been demolished,

Of course, this is a very serious option for defective windows.

Bit draconian, don't you think?


or at least had the windows replaced with
triple glazed ones....???

This is an option. There is also protection order on the outside of the
building, with all windows looking having to look the same.


Stops the Philistines I suppose.....




..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Mar 2004 10:46:15 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 8 Mar 2004 22:46:34 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


Ummm...... so why hasn't the place been demolished,

Of course, this is a very serious option for defective windows.

Bit draconian, don't you think?

No demolition is the only way in many cases. I am considering approaching
the council, councillors and MP to get them to demolish this building of
over 150 apartments over this sash window issue. The Tory council will
probably act strongly when I tell them some working class people are in
there. That is get their backs up, that will get the JCB's rolling in.

or at least had the windows replaced with
triple glazed ones....???

This is an option. There is also protection order on the outside of the
building, with all windows looking having to look the same.

Stops the Philistines I suppose.....

Yes the local Tory council are attempting to keep out those from the towns
from around Sarf Landan. No style and sip tea from saucers.

On Tue, 9 Mar 2004 16:58:23 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 9 Mar 2004 10:46:15 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
news On Mon, 8 Mar 2004 22:46:34 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


Ummm...... so why hasn't the place been demolished,

Of course, this is a very serious option for defective windows.

Bit draconian, don't you think?

No demolition is the only way in many cases. I am considering approaching
the council, councillors and MP to get them to demolish this building of
over 150 apartments over this sash window issue.

Doesn't seem likely though does it?

Also, don't CPOs tend to pay less than market value or don't you own
the place?

The Tory council will
probably act strongly when I tell them some working class people are in
there. That is get their backs up, that will get the JCB's rolling in.

How do you work that one out?


or at least had the windows replaced with
triple glazed ones....???

This is an option. There is also protection order on the outside of the
building, with all windows looking having to look the same.

Stops the Philistines I suppose.....

Yes the local Tory council are attempting to keep out those from the towns
from around Sarf Landan. No style and sip tea from saucers.

Do they? Terrible. They probably dunk their ginger biscuits as well.

Are we talking about the people from around Sarf Landan or the Tory
councillors though?



..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Mar 2004 16:58:23 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 9 Mar 2004 10:46:15 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
news On Mon, 8 Mar 2004 22:46:34 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


Ummm...... so why hasn't the place been demolished,

Of course, this is a very serious option for defective windows.

Bit draconian, don't you think?

No demolition is the only way in many cases. I am considering approaching
the council, councillors and MP to get them to demolish this building of
over 150 apartments over this sash window issue.

Doesn't seem likely though does it?

Also, don't CPOs tend to pay less than market value or don't you own
the place?

I own the place, but that is not the issue.

The Tory council will
probably act strongly when I tell them some working class people are in
there. That is get their backs up, that will get the JCB's rolling in.

How do you work that one out?

You don't know?

or at least had the windows replaced with
triple glazed ones....???

This is an option. There is also protection order on the outside of
the
building, with all windows looking having to look the same.

Stops the Philistines I suppose.....

Yes the local Tory council are attempting to keep out those from the
towns
from around Sarf Landan. No style and sip tea from saucers.

Do they? Terrible. They probably dunk
their ginger biscuits as well.

No doubt.

Are we talking about the people from around Sarf Landan or the Tory
councillors though?

Probably both.

On Tue, 9 Mar 2004 19:51:51 -0000, "IMM" wrote:



Also, don't CPOs tend to pay less than market value or don't you own
the place?

I own the place, but that is not the issue.

Riiight. So you own the place but don't care if it were compulorily
purchased at below market value?

Does this represent a high ideal or have I missed something?

Perhaps you just give it away to charity and be done with it.......


The Tory council will
probably act strongly when I tell them some working class people are in
there. That is get their backs up, that will get the JCB's rolling in.

How do you work that one out?

You don't know?

You have some very strange ideas about what concerns people....



..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Mar 2004 19:51:51 -0000, "IMM" wrote:



Also, don't CPOs tend to pay less than market value or don't you own
the place?

I own the place, but that is not the issue.

Riiight. So you own the place but don't care if it were compulorily
purchased at below market value?

Does this represent a high ideal or have I missed something?

You have missed a hell of a lot. Did your mother and father send you to
boarding skule?

Perhaps you just give it away to charity and be done with it.......

The Tory council will
probably act strongly when I tell them some working class people are
in
there. That is get their backs up, that will get the JCB's rolling in.

How do you work that one out?

You don't know?

You have some very strange ideas about what concerns people....

You were packed off to boarding skule weren't you?

On Tue, 9 Mar 2004 20:55:02 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 9 Mar 2004 19:51:51 -0000, "IMM" wrote:



Also, don't CPOs tend to pay less than market value or don't you own
the place?

I own the place, but that is not the issue.

Riiight. So you own the place but don't care if it were compulorily
purchased at below market value?

Does this represent a high ideal or have I missed something?

You have missed a hell of a lot. Did your mother and father send you to
boarding skule?


Nope.

What is the issue with your place?


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Mar 2004 20:55:02 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 9 Mar 2004 19:51:51 -0000, "IMM" wrote:



Also, don't CPOs tend to pay less than market value or don't you own
the place?

I own the place, but that is not the issue.

Riiight. So you own the place but don't care if it were compulorily
purchased at below market value?

Does this represent a high ideal or have I missed something?

You have missed a hell of a lot. Did your mother and father send you to
boarding skule?


Nope.

What is the issue with your place?

The bottom bit on the sash window need replacing in the summer.

On Tue, 9 Mar 2004 21:25:35 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 9 Mar 2004 20:55:02 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


What is the issue with your place?

The bottom bit on the sash window need replacing in the summer.


Yes I know that, but why would you want to see it demolished at a loss
of value to you?



..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 9 Mar 2004 21:25:35 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .

On Tue, 9 Mar 2004 20:55:02 -0000, "IMM" wrote:

What is the issue with your place?

The bottom bit on the sash window need replacing in the summer.

Yes I know that, but why would you want to see it demolished at a loss
of value to you?

I didn't say that. You did.

On Tue, 9 Mar 2004 21:45:17 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 9 Mar 2004 21:25:35 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .

On Tue, 9 Mar 2004 20:55:02 -0000, "IMM" wrote:

What is the issue with your place?

The bottom bit on the sash window need replacing in the summer.

Yes I know that, but why would you want to see it demolished at a loss
of value to you?

I didn't say that. You did.

I really should take up eel fishing by hand. It would be easier.


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"IMM" wrote
| "Andy Hall" wrote
| Riiight. So you own the place but don't care if it were
| compulorily purchased at below market value?
| Does this represent a high ideal or have I missed something?
| What is the issue with your place?
| The bottom bit on the sash window need replacing in the summer.

It's a hell of a drastic solution, and one that will cost a lot in
solicitor's fees. Wouldn't a really effective fire be less hassle?

Owain

"Owain" wrote in message
...
"IMM" wrote
| "Andy Hall" wrote
| Riiight. So you own the place but don't care if it were
| compulorily purchased at below market value?
| Does this represent a high ideal or have I missed something?
| What is the issue with your place?
| The bottom bit on the sash window need replacing in the summer.

It's a hell of a drastic solution, and one that will cost a lot in
solicitor's fees. Wouldn't a really effective fire be less hassle?

Owain,

Firing up properties with defective windows is the only option.

"IMM" wrote
| "Owain" wrote
| | The bottom bit on the sash window need replacing in the summer.
| It's a hell of a drastic solution, and one that will cost a lot in
| solicitor's fees. Wouldn't a really effective fire be less hassle?
| Firing up properties with defective windows is the only option.

Well, I suppose an ICBM would also work, but the insurance company might be
a bit sceptical. A chip pan and a couple of bottle gas heaters on the other
hand ;-)

Owain