I have almost finished building a ground floor utility room and adjoining
shower room on a concrete base. I was thinking about installing cable
underfloor heating, but have no experience of it and neither do I know
anyone who has. So, I am wondering if it will be suitable and adequate for
these two rooms which, hopefully, won't have to have rads.
Many thanks for any advice.

bill wrote:

I have almost finished building a ground floor utility room and adjoining
shower room on a concrete base. I was thinking about installing cable
underfloor heating, but have no experience of it and neither do I know
anyone who has. So, I am wondering if it will be suitable and adequate for
these two rooms which, hopefully, won't have to have rads.
Many thanks for any advice.


I'm just about to do this in our kitchen. I got mine from
http://www.penguineurope.com/ who were very helpful, and have a nice
range of products.

There's really not much to it - you lay the cable, then tile on top.


--
Grunff

"bill" wrote in message
...
I have almost finished building a ground floor utility room and adjoining
shower room on a concrete base. I was thinking about installing cable
underfloor heating, but have no experience of it and neither do I know
anyone who has. So, I am wondering if it will be suitable and adequate for
these two rooms which, hopefully, won't have to have rads.
Many thanks for any advice.



One of my relatives installed it in a well insulated bathroom of fairly
large floor area and it is sufficient, but can't make the bathroom hot, if
you understand what I mean. You should work out the likely heat loss and
work out the floor area and how many watts you can get out, if the wattage
is enough there is no problem, if it is borderline you could put in a couple
of heated towel rails to back up the warmth.

"bill" wrote in message
...
I have almost finished building a ground floor utility room and adjoining
shower room on a concrete base. I was thinking about installing cable
underfloor heating, but have no experience of it and neither do I know
anyone who has. So, I am wondering if it will be suitable and adequate for
these two rooms which, hopefully, won't have to have rads.
Many thanks for any advice.



You will need rads I am sure unless the rooms are tiny. Wickes / screwfix
standard kits only make the tiles warm to the feet and not much else. Don't
forget the heat has to pass through the floor tiles / covering before the
room can be heated.

Jen

Lots to think about. Thanks for all the replies.



"Jenny Brooks" invalid@please wrote in message
...

"bill" wrote in message
...
I have almost finished building a ground floor utility room and
adjoining
shower room on a concrete base. I was thinking about installing cable
underfloor heating, but have no experience of it and neither do I know
anyone who has. So, I am wondering if it will be suitable and adequate
for
these two rooms which, hopefully, won't have to have rads.
Many thanks for any advice.



You will need rads I am sure unless the rooms are tiny. Wickes / screwfix
standard kits only make the tiles warm to the feet and not much else.
Don't
forget the heat has to pass through the floor tiles / covering before the
room can be heated.

Jen

On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 13:35:53 +0100, "Jenny Brooks" invalid@please
wrote:


You will need rads I am sure unless the rooms are tiny. Wickes / screwfix
standard kits only make the tiles warm to the feet and not much else. Don't
forget the heat has to pass through the floor tiles / covering before the
room can be heated.

I used to work in an office that had electric underfloor heating. It
was a pain.

It would take 3 days to reach temperature and the same time to cool
down.

Either the staff would switch on the electric blow heaters or have the
windows open trying to cool down.

Graham

Graham Wilson wrote:

On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 13:35:53 +0100, "Jenny Brooks" invalid@please
wrote:



You will need rads I am sure unless the rooms are tiny. Wickes / screwfix
standard kits only make the tiles warm to the feet and not much else. Don't
forget the heat has to pass through the floor tiles / covering before the
room can be heated.


I used to work in an office that had electric underfloor heating. It
was a pain.

It would take 3 days to reach temperature and the same time to cool
down.

Either the staff would switch on the electric blow heaters or have the
windows open trying to cool down.


My first adventures in controlling mine resulted in similar effects. She
would 'turn it up' because it was cold, and 'open the windows' because
it was hot.

The last office I worked in (radiators) suffered from the same thing,
because it appears that the majority of people do NOT understand what a
thermostat is.

They turn it up because they are cold, and even more up because they are
still cold 5 minutes later, as if it were a gas fire. And open the
windows as if it were a hot day.

Once statted correctly - about 22 degrees - my UFH stabilizes after
about 5 hours. The floor ranges from cool to quite warm depending on the
outside temperature, and the mass of it stabilizes winter temperatures
very well as the sun goes up and down etc.

Because of the long warm up period, if I time it at all (spring autumn)
I tend to put it on a couple of hours before sunset, and run till
midnight. In winter its 24x7. Its less innefficient than you might
expect, because bedrooms above it need far less heating anyway.



Graham

"Graham Wilson" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 13:35:53 +0100, "Jenny Brooks" invalid@please
wrote:


You will need rads I am sure unless the rooms are tiny. Wickes /
screwfix
standard kits only make the tiles warm to the feet and not much else.
Don't
forget the heat has to pass through the floor tiles / covering before the
room can be heated.

I used to work in an office that had electric underfloor heating. It
was a pain.

It would take 3 days to reach temperature and the same time to cool
down.

Either the staff would switch on the electric blow heaters or have the
windows open trying to cool down.

That can be the case with wet UFH too.