I've just replaced some plasterboard on a studding wall and although
I've not done any plastering for years, thought I would have a go at
skimming it myself. All went well until I got to the top of the board
and then I saw some printing. You can probably guess what it said
'Plaster other side only'. It looks o.k. at the moment but the
question is How worried should I be? It has to take some fairly heavy
tiles when it's dried out and I wouldn't like the whole lot to come
crashing down.

--
Andy Minter

In article ,
Andy Minter writes:
I've just replaced some plasterboard on a studding wall and although
I've not done any plastering for years, thought I would have a go at
skimming it myself. All went well until I got to the top of the board
and then I saw some printing. You can probably guess what it said
'Plaster other side only'. It looks o.k. at the moment but the
question is How worried should I be? It has to take some fairly heavy
tiles when it's dried out and I wouldn't like the whole lot to come
crashing down.

It won't make any difference.

Reminds me when I had put up some plasterboard a few years ago and
had a plasterer come round to plaster it. He said, "by the way, next
time put the plasterboard on the other way round". I pointed out that
plastering onto the aluminium foil was probably quite a bit more
difficult, which he conceded ;-)

--
Andrew Gabriel

"Andy Minter" wrote in message


'Plaster other side only'. It looks o.k. at the moment but the
question is How worried should I be? It has to take some fairly heavy

It comes from the days when the scrim used was hemp. You put a layer of
hemp and plaster along the joints to stop them cracking. This thickness
is still allowed for on the grey side of the board. With modern
fibreglass masking, there is no need for that extra step.

You did use something across the joints? (Just a little kick in the
pants. It's not a major catastrophe, especially if you are tiling.)




--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

'Plaster other side only'.

Lol, a common mistake, when they manufacture the board, the liquid
plaster filling is poured onto the lighter paper and it binds with the
paper fibres, the darker paper is then layed on top with the lighter
sides folded around and glued. The bonding strength of the darker
paper is below specification and is NOT for sticking ANYTHING onto it,
especially something wet that soaks through the paper to the plaster
filling weakening the tiny area around the nail or screw used to fix
the board to the surface.

Thats why they take the time and money to print the words "Plaster
other side only" onto plasterboard.

On a ceiling with heavy light fittings fixed to the board with
condensation or a water leak could bring the ceiling down, but in your
wall/tile situation it will be fine, just dont fix anything heavy like
shelving to the finished wall.

In message lgate.org,
Michael McNeil writes
"Andy Minter" wrote in message


'Plaster other side only'. It looks o.k. at the moment but the
question is How worried should I be? It has to take some fairly heavy

It comes from the days when the scrim used was hemp. You put a layer of
hemp and plaster along the joints to stop them cracking. This thickness
is still allowed for on the grey side of the board.

Hmm, so why would my square edged boards that I recently used bother to
say it? Since there is no difference in thickness?

Anyway, I thought to point of taper edge board (which I presumed you
were talking about) was for those situations where you are just filling
the joints and smoothing off, not skimming.

--
Chris French, Leeds

"James" wrote in message
om...
snip

On a ceiling with heavy light fittings fixed to the board with
condensation or a water leak could bring the ceiling down, but in your
wall/tile situation it will be fine, just dont fix anything heavy like
shelving to the finished wall.

But surely you would be fixing shelve etc. to the studs, not raw
plasterboard ?...

"Jerry." wrote in message

But surely you would be fixing shelve etc. to the studs, not raw
plasterboard ?...

Err, yes I would but you wouldn't believe what some people do, like
the hole in a stud wall I was asked to repair where the loudspeaker
bracket had once been fixed before it and the large heavy loudspeaker
fell off onto the girl sat underneath.

The subject says it all really. I need to ensure that the join is airtight
and able to resist only 5" water pressure.

I tried looking this up on the WWW, but did not get much help.

--
Marcus
To reply use marcus at frenchay dot demon dot co dot uk

Marcus wrote in message ...
The subject says it all really. I need to ensure that the join is airtight
and able to resist only 5" water pressure.

I tried looking this up on the WWW, but did not get much help.

Try a boat shop. They will have various adhesives for this type of application.

Marcus wrote:

The subject says it all really. I need to ensure that the join is airtight
and able to resist only 5" water pressure.

I tried looking this up on the WWW, but did not get much help.



Slicone rubber for selaing. It adheres well enough probably.

Or us l angle bolts, screws and sealant.