My kitchen strip light has stopped working. I've replaced with
known working starters and known working tubes from other
known working lights, and it doesn't come on. Symptoms are the
starter will occasionally spark, and when the starter sparks
the tube will occasionally try to strike, eventually, lighting
if I turn the wall switch on and off many times. This morning
I counted and got to 50 on/offs at one second intervals before
the tube struck and stayed on.

Is this a dead fitting? Dead ballast? Dead something-else? From
previous threads it would appear to be cheaper to replace the
fitting than to try and replace the ballast. I think it was
new in the mid-1990s.

jgh

On Wednesday, 12 February 2020 23:58:16 UTC, wrote:
My kitchen strip light has stopped working. I've replaced with
known working starters and known working tubes from other
known working lights, and it doesn't come on. Symptoms are the
starter will occasionally spark, and when the starter sparks
the tube will occasionally try to strike, eventually, lighting
if I turn the wall switch on and off many times. This morning
I counted and got to 50 on/offs at one second intervals before
the tube struck and stayed on.

Is this a dead fitting? Dead ballast? Dead something-else? From
previous threads it would appear to be cheaper to replace the
fitting than to try and replace the ballast. I think it was
new in the mid-1990s.

jgh

more likely just a bad contact somewhere. If the ballast goes oc, which is rare, you won't see any starter action at all.


NT

tabb wrote:
more likely just a bad contact somewhere. If the ballast goes oc, which
is rare, you won't see any starter action at all.

That could be an issue, upstair's overflow was running continously
last year, and eventually penetrated my plasterwork, so could well
have got into the wiring. I haven't tackled any of it yet as it's
pointless replastering until I've got the emergency bodge repair
to the roof replaced first.

jgh

Oh, could be corrosion then. I had a cheap woolies fitting with this issue.
In that ones case if you took the double fitting indoors for a couple of
hours it worked, but out in the cold shed, it was just not going to strike.
In the end I found some crimped on connections that had gone all grey manky
due to condensation. Soldering it seemed to allow it to strike, though it
always was a little naff if the weather was very cold. . I never did find
out why this connection did not manifest itself as arcing or heat, but then,
they only cost a few quid.. grin.
Brian

--
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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
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wrote in message
...
tabb wrote:
more likely just a bad contact somewhere. If the ballast goes oc, which
is rare, you won't see any starter action at all.

That could be an issue, upstair's overflow was running continously
last year, and eventually penetrated my plasterwork, so could well
have got into the wiring. I haven't tackled any of it yet as it's
pointless replastering until I've got the emergency bodge repair
to the roof replaced first.

jgh

In article ,
wrote:
My kitchen strip light has stopped working. I've replaced with
known working starters and known working tubes from other
known working lights, and it doesn't come on. Symptoms are the
starter will occasionally spark, and when the starter sparks
the tube will occasionally try to strike, eventually, lighting
if I turn the wall switch on and off many times. This morning
I counted and got to 50 on/offs at one second intervals before
the tube struck and stayed on.

Is this a dead fitting? Dead ballast? Dead something-else? From
previous threads it would appear to be cheaper to replace the
fitting than to try and replace the ballast. I think it was
new in the mid-1990s.

If you like the look of it OK, it might makes sense to replace all the
electrics with an electronic ballast. Would obviously need some internal
rewiring. They are more efficient, give better starting, and likely longer
tube life.

--
*If you must choose between two evils, pick the one you've never tried before

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Thursday, 13 February 2020 15:32:27 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
wrote:
My kitchen strip light has stopped working. I've replaced with
known working starters and known working tubes from other
known working lights, and it doesn't come on. Symptoms are the
starter will occasionally spark, and when the starter sparks
the tube will occasionally try to strike, eventually, lighting
if I turn the wall switch on and off many times. This morning
I counted and got to 50 on/offs at one second intervals before
the tube struck and stayed on.

Is this a dead fitting? Dead ballast? Dead something-else? From
previous threads it would appear to be cheaper to replace the
fitting than to try and replace the ballast. I think it was
new in the mid-1990s.

If you like the look of it OK, it might makes sense to replace all the
electrics with an electronic ballast. Would obviously need some internal
rewiring. They are more efficient, give better starting, and likely longer
tube life.

Would make a good bit more sense to disconnect the ballast and fit an LED tube.


NT

On 13/02/2020 18:14, wrote:
On Thursday, 13 February 2020 15:32:27 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
wrote:
My kitchen strip light has stopped working. I've replaced with
known working starters and known working tubes from other
known working lights, and it doesn't come on. Symptoms are the
starter will occasionally spark, and when the starter sparks
the tube will occasionally try to strike, eventually, lighting
if I turn the wall switch on and off many times. This morning
I counted and got to 50 on/offs at one second intervals before
the tube struck and stayed on.

Is this a dead fitting? Dead ballast? Dead something-else? From
previous threads it would appear to be cheaper to replace the
fitting than to try and replace the ballast. I think it was
new in the mid-1990s.

If you like the look of it OK, it might makes sense to replace all the
electrics with an electronic ballast. Would obviously need some internal
rewiring. They are more efficient, give better starting, and likely longer
tube life.

Would make a good bit more sense to disconnect the ballast and fit an LED tube.




+1. Piece of **** to fit.


--
Adam

In article ,
wrote:
If you like the look of it OK, it might makes sense to replace all the
electrics with an electronic ballast. Would obviously need some
internal rewiring. They are more efficient, give better starting, and
likely longer tube life.

Would make a good bit more sense to disconnect the ballast and fit an
LED tube.

If all you are after is the most basic illumination, possibly.

--
*A cartoonist was found dead in his home. Details are sketchy.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Friday, 14 February 2020 10:58:53 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:

If you like the look of it OK, it might makes sense to replace all the
electrics with an electronic ballast. Would obviously need some
internal rewiring. They are more efficient, give better starting, and
likely longer tube life.

Would make a good bit more sense to disconnect the ballast and fit an
LED tube.

If all you are after is the most basic illumination, possibly.

I see you're talking rubbish again.

In article ,
wrote:
On Friday, 14 February 2020 10:58:53 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:

If you like the look of it OK, it might makes sense to replace all the
electrics with an electronic ballast. Would obviously need some
internal rewiring. They are more efficient, give better starting, and
likely longer tube life.

Would make a good bit more sense to disconnect the ballast and fit an
LED tube.

If all you are after is the most basic illumination, possibly.

I see you're talking rubbish again.

Good to know you are 100% happy with the quality of LEDs. And what they
look like.

LEDs are often uncomfortable to view directly. And a replacement tube made
from lots of point sources - unlike a florry which is even along its
entire length. And available in a variety of colour temperatures, etc. Not
just white and warm white.

Oh - even a high output LED replacement produces less light than a florry.
4000 as opposed to a decent tri-phosphate one at 5200 lumens. And costs
about 5 times as much.

--
*If a turtle doesn't have a shell, is he homeless or naked?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 14/02/2020 10:56, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
wrote:
If you like the look of it OK, it might makes sense to replace all the
electrics with an electronic ballast. Would obviously need some
internal rewiring. They are more efficient, give better starting, and
likely longer tube life.

Would make a good bit more sense to disconnect the ballast and fit an
LED tube.

If all you are after is the most basic illumination, possibly.

The masses are easy to cater for.

The only drawback on fluorescents are the running costs. ie reduced
performance after 6 months, dust build up etc

--
Adam

On 13/02/2020 18:14, wrote:
On Thursday, 13 February 2020 15:32:27 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

[snip]

If you like the look of it OK, it might makes sense to replace all the
electrics with an electronic ballast. Would obviously need some internal
rewiring. They are more efficient, give better starting, and likely longer
tube life.

Would make a good bit more sense to disconnect the ballast and fit an LED tube.

But only if you can get the same light output. I wasn't able to find a
LED tube for my 6ft fitting that would give the same output as the
original fluorescent.

It was a case of 6200 lumens for a 6ft fluorescent compared to 3000 to
4000 for a LED.

On Tuesday, 18 February 2020 10:05:26 UTC, Mike Clarke wrote:
On 13/02/2020 18:14, tabbypurr wrote:
On Thursday, 13 February 2020 15:32:27 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

[snip]

If you like the look of it OK, it might makes sense to replace all the
electrics with an electronic ballast. Would obviously need some internal
rewiring. They are more efficient, give better starting, and likely longer
tube life.

Would make a good bit more sense to disconnect the ballast and fit an LED tube.

But only if you can get the same light output. I wasn't able to find a
LED tube for my 6ft fitting that would give the same output as the
original fluorescent.

It was a case of 6200 lumens for a 6ft fluorescent compared to 3000 to
4000 for a LED.

I'm sure there are situations where you do need every lumen the tube produced. I don't see that often though.


NT

In article ,
wrote:
On Tuesday, 18 February 2020 10:05:26 UTC, Mike Clarke wrote:
On 13/02/2020 18:14, tabbypurr wrote:
On Thursday, 13 February 2020 15:32:27 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

[snip]

If you like the look of it OK, it might makes sense to replace all
the electrics with an electronic ballast. Would obviously need some
internal rewiring. They are more efficient, give better starting,
and likely longer tube life.

Would make a good bit more sense to disconnect the ballast and fit
an LED tube.

But only if you can get the same light output. I wasn't able to find a
LED tube for my 6ft fitting that would give the same output as the
original fluorescent.

It was a case of 6200 lumens for a 6ft fluorescent compared to 3000 to
4000 for a LED.

I'm sure there are situations where you do need every lumen the tube
produced. I don't see that often though.

Then simply accept that others ain't willing to put up with a poorer light
just to save a few pennies in running costs.

I'd have little to complain about if both LEDs and the CFLs before them
were honest about their equivalent light output.

--
*I did a theatrical performance about puns. It was a play on words.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Wednesday, February 12, 2020 at 11:58:16 PM UTC, wrote:
My kitchen strip light has stopped working. I've replaced with
known working starters and known working tubes from other
known working lights, and it doesn't come on. Symptoms are the
starter will occasionally spark, and when the starter sparks
the tube will occasionally try to strike, eventually, lighting
if I turn the wall switch on and off many times. This morning
I counted and got to 50 on/offs at one second intervals before
the tube struck and stayed on.

Is this a dead fitting? Dead ballast? Dead something-else? From
previous threads it would appear to be cheaper to replace the
fitting than to try and replace the ballast. I think it was
new in the mid-1990s.

jgh

I mentioned in a thread here a few months ago, that I finally traced some
puzzling symptoms with a fluorescent fitting - like you, changing tubes,
starters, etc - to the fact that the bayonet fitting for the starter was
faulty. Unbeknownst to me, it includes some contacts which are supposed to make
as you turn the starter ... but weren't (cheap bent metal)

I discovered this visually after removing the top of the fitting - might be
worth a look.

J^n

On 13/02/2020 19:56, jkn wrote:
On Wednesday, February 12, 2020 at 11:58:16 PM UTC, wrote:
My kitchen strip light has stopped working. I've replaced with
known working starters and known working tubes from other
known working lights, and it doesn't come on. Symptoms are the
starter will occasionally spark, and when the starter sparks
the tube will occasionally try to strike, eventually, lighting
if I turn the wall switch on and off many times. This morning
I counted and got to 50 on/offs at one second intervals before
the tube struck and stayed on.

Is this a dead fitting? Dead ballast? Dead something-else? From
previous threads it would appear to be cheaper to replace the
fitting than to try and replace the ballast. I think it was
new in the mid-1990s.

jgh

I mentioned in a thread here a few months ago, that I finally traced some
puzzling symptoms with a fluorescent fitting - like you, changing tubes,
starters, etc - to the fact that the bayonet fitting for the starter was
faulty. Unbeknownst to me, it includes some contacts which are supposed to make
as you turn the starter ... but weren't (cheap bent metal)

I discovered this visually after removing the top of the fitting - might be
worth a look.

Rewiring a fitting to removing 'ballast' and starter etc so the fitting
is only suitable of an LED tube is straightforward. I've started
replacing the tubes in our garage with LED tubes from Screwfix (about
£14 each as I recall) and I'm delighted with the results. As each old
tube fails, the intention is to modify each one. I label the fitting so,
in future, I (or anyone else) can see the fitting is only suitable for
an LED tube.

I've a couple of similar fittings in the electronic workshop, they will
also be updated as they fail.

In article , Brian Reay wrote:
On 13/02/2020 19:56, jkn wrote:
On Wednesday, February 12, 2020 at 11:58:16 PM UTC, wrote:
My kitchen strip light has stopped working. I've replaced with known
working starters and known working tubes from other known working
lights, and it doesn't come on. Symptoms are the starter will
occasionally spark, and when the starter sparks the tube will
occasionally try to strike, eventually, lighting if I turn the wall
switch on and off many times. This morning I counted and got to 50
on/offs at one second intervals before the tube struck and stayed on.

Is this a dead fitting? Dead ballast? Dead something-else? From
previous threads it would appear to be cheaper to replace the fitting
than to try and replace the ballast. I think it was new in the
mid-1990s.

jgh

I mentioned in a thread here a few months ago, that I finally traced
some puzzling symptoms with a fluorescent fitting - like you, changing
tubes, starters, etc - to the fact that the bayonet fitting for the
starter was faulty. Unbeknownst to me, it includes some contacts which
are supposed to make as you turn the starter ... but weren't (cheap
bent metal)

I discovered this visually after removing the top of the fitting -
might be worth a look.

Rewiring a fitting to removing 'ballast' and starter etc so the fitting
is only suitable of an LED tube is straightforward.

Easy on the bench, but not so easy working above your head balancing on
the draining board. Been there, done it.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On Saturday, 15 February 2020 13:41:13 UTC, charles wrote:
In article , Brian Reay wrote:

Rewiring a fitting to removing 'ballast' and starter etc so the fitting
is only suitable of an LED tube is straightforward.

Easy on the bench, but not so easy working above your head balancing on
the draining board. Been there, done it.

It's trivial.


NT