The bit where you screw the shower hose onto the shower mixer is damaged and leaks water. I have had some success with lots of ptfe tape but it doesn't seem to last.
Is this a job for epoxy putty or is there something else?

Rednadnerb wrote:
The bit where you screw the shower hose onto the shower mixer is
damaged and leaks water. I have had some success with lots of ptfe
tape but it doesn't seem to last. Is this a job for epoxy putty or is
there something else?

New washer/O ring. Clean the sufaces before sticking the rubber in.

Rednadnerb wrote:
The bit where you screw the shower hose onto the shower mixer is damaged
and leaks water. I have had some success with lots of ptfe tape but it
doesn't seem to last.
Is this a job for epoxy putty or is there something else?


A picture would be a big help. Usually the outlet is too substantial to
get damaged. The repair will depend on the nature of the damage.

Make/model of mixer would be a help too.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 21/10/2019 21:07, Tim+ wrote:
Rednadnerb wrote:
The bit where you screw the shower hose onto the shower mixer is damaged
and leaks water. I have had some success with lots of ptfe tape but it
doesn't seem to last.
Is this a job for epoxy putty or is there something else?


A picture would be a big help. Usually the outlet is too substantial to
get damaged. The repair will depend on the nature of the damage.

Make/model of mixer would be a help too.

Tim

+1. I'd be more inclined to use silicone than epoxy because that would
give you a better chance of replacing the hose later if you need to. But
the epoxy putties are very effective.

A picture would be a big help. Usually the outlet is too substantial
to get damaged. The repair will depend on the nature of the damage.

Make/model of mixer would be a help too.

Tim

+1. I'd be more inclined to use silicone than epoxy because that would
give you a better chance of replacing the hose later if you need to.
But the epoxy putties are very effective.


The outlet is usually brass and has a flat sealing face. Leakage is usually
due the the rubber washer in the hose connection having perished away.
Being a nurd, I take a spare washer in my holiday trousers pocket as
inevitably rented villas have a leak.
The thread is not part of the seal - it merely provides a clamping force.

Sorry I can't provide a picture but it is as John describes. Brass with a flat sealing face but the outlet is slightly D shaped and maybe the sealing face is no longer flat. I think someone clamped it with a pliers (not me honest). Maybe the sealing face is no longer flat. I have tried it with a new hose and washer.

Am I right in thinking that if the thread is not part of the seal then my ptfe tape hasn't actually been doing anything?

Rednadnerb wrote:
Sorry I can't provide a picture but it is as John describes. Brass with a
flat sealing face but the outlet is slightly D shaped and maybe the
sealing face is no longer flat. I think someone clamped it with a pliers
(not me honest). Maybe the sealing face is no longer flat. I have tried
it with a new hose and washer.

Am I right in thinking that if the thread is not part of the seal then my
ptfe tape hasn't actually been doing anything?


If it has a flat face, then no, the threads dont have a sealing function.
A new hose and washer should work unless theres something else wrong that
you havent told us. PTFE tape on the threads may allow you to do the
fitting up a bit tighter and compress the washer more but the the seal is
made by the washer.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

So if the ptfe is doing nothing then epoxy putty and silicone wouldn't do anything either.
What about doubling up on the washer?
It is for a customer so I can't try it at the moment.

On 22/10/2019 18:47, Rednadnerb wrote:
So if the ptfe is doing nothing then epoxy putty and silicone wouldn't do anything either.
What about doubling up on the washer?
It is for a customer so I can't try it at the moment.


What about screwing on the nut from a 1/2 inch (?) brass compression
fitting first to see if that cleans up or re-cuts the thread and
restores some of the roundness to the D shaped connector. Sometimes the
hose connectors are chrome plated plastic that will easily distort to
match the harder mating connector and/or it may appear to be tight when
it meets a damaged portion of thread where in fact on an undamaged
thread you may have been able to get more turns to fully seat the washer.

As you say, my second attempted fix would be to double washer or at
least remove the washer and turn it over.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

alan_m wrote in
:

On 22/10/2019 18:47, Rednadnerb wrote:
So if the ptfe is doing nothing then epoxy putty and silicone
wouldn't do anything either. What about doubling up on the washer?
It is for a customer so I can't try it at the moment.


What about screwing on the nut from a 1/2 inch (?) brass compression
fitting first to see if that cleans up or re-cuts the thread and
restores some of the roundness to the D shaped connector. Sometimes
the hose connectors are chrome plated plastic that will easily distort
to match the harder mating connector and/or it may appear to be tight
when it meets a damaged portion of thread where in fact on an
undamaged thread you may have been able to get more turns to fully
seat the washer.

As you say, my second attempted fix would be to double washer or at
least remove the washer and turn it over.


Double up on washers or even tripple if room.

On 22/10/2019 18:47, Rednadnerb wrote:
So if the ptfe is doing nothing then epoxy putty and silicone wouldn't do anything either.
What about doubling up on the washer?
It is for a customer so I can't try it at the moment.

I had been assuming that the damage to the end face of the male thread
(or perhaps within the female nut on the hose) was such that the sealing
washer was not able to work. In that case, gluing the lot together with
silicone or epoxy would work, provided you can fill all the leak paths
and not block the flow path. However, it occurs to me that perhaps you
have a failed plastic hose inside the metal spiral, perhaps where the
hose flares out into a flange. In that case the solution is a complete
new flexible hose. They are cheap.