I need to batten out a block wall to accommodate some 75mm ducting runs and so, given the depth, will effectively be building a stud wall up against the existing wall.

I am wondering how best to secure the top plate given the presence of the joists hangers preventing me from screwing straight up into the joist, and thought about drilling a hole in the base of the hangers to allow me to do this?

Here's a picture of the hangers I've got:

http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/joisthanger.jpg

(Note that this is in another room where I've removed the ceiling, and where the existing plasterboard on the wall is still in place)

Is there any risk of weakening the hanger by drilling, say, a single 6mm hole in the base of the 'cradle' to accommodate a screw been driven up into the joist?

On 02/09/2019 22:46, Mathew Newton wrote:
I need to batten out a block wall to accommodate some 75mm ducting
runs and so, given the depth, will effectively be building a stud
wall up against the existing wall.

I am wondering how best to secure the top plate given the presence of
the joists hangers preventing me from screwing straight up into the
joist, and thought about drilling a hole in the base of the hangers
to allow me to do this?

Here's a picture of the hangers I've got:

http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/joisthanger.jpg

(Note that this is in another room where I've removed the ceiling,
and where the existing plasterboard on the wall is still in place)

Is there any risk of weakening the hanger by drilling, say, a single
6mm hole in the base of the 'cradle' to accommodate a screw been
driven up into the joist?

Yes, but not in a way that affects the design objective

And screwing something through it mostly restores the strength in that
mode anyway.


--
How fortunate for governments that the people they administer don't think.

Adolf Hitler

On Monday, 2 September 2019 22:46:21 UTC+1, Mathew Newton wrote:
I need to batten out a block wall to accommodate some 75mm ducting runs and so, given the depth, will effectively be building a stud wall up against the existing wall.

I am wondering how best to secure the top plate given the presence of the joists hangers preventing me from screwing straight up into the joist, and thought about drilling a hole in the base of the hangers to allow me to do this?

Here's a picture of the hangers I've got:

http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/joisthanger.jpg

(Note that this is in another room where I've removed the ceiling, and where the existing plasterboard on the wall is still in place)

Is there any risk of weakening the hanger by drilling, say, a single 6mm hole in the base of the 'cradle' to accommodate a screw been driven up into the joist?

Not a problem. Paint it with something to stop rust taking over though - even a drying oil should do.


NT

Mathew Newton Wrote in message:
I need to batten out a block wall to accommodate some 75mm ducting runs and so, given the depth, will effectively be building a stud wall up against the existing wall.

I am wondering how best to secure the top plate given the presence of the joists hangers preventing me from screwing straight up into the joist, and thought about drilling a hole in the base of the hangers to allow me to do this?

Here's a picture of the hangers I've got:

http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/joisthanger.jpg

(Note that this is in another room where I've removed the ceiling, and where the existing plasterboard on the wall is still in place)

Is there any risk of weakening the hanger by drilling, say, a single 6mm hole in the base of the 'cradle' to accommodate a screw been driven up into the joist?


Turn the 3x2 90deg & fix it to the block wall without a head or
sole plate?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On Tuesday, September 3, 2019 at 9:09:31 AM UTC+1, JimK wrote:

Turn the 3x2 90deg & fix it to the block wall without a head or
sole plate?

I have considered affixing directly to the wall but am conscious that lightweight blocks aren't the greatest of substrates to make secure attachments too and that utilising the fixed joists might be more straightforward (notwithstanding the fact that all my HSS bits are made of cheese but I can sort that out).

On 02/09/2019 22:46, Mathew Newton wrote:
I need to batten out a block wall to accommodate some 75mm ducting runs and so, given the depth, will effectively be building a stud wall up against the existing wall.

I am wondering how best to secure the top plate given the presence of the joists hangers preventing me from screwing straight up into the joist, and thought about drilling a hole in the base of the hangers to allow me to do this?

Here's a picture of the hangers I've got:

http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/joisthanger.jpg

(Note that this is in another room where I've removed the ceiling, and where the existing plasterboard on the wall is still in place)

Is there any risk of weakening the hanger by drilling, say, a single 6mm hole in the base of the 'cradle' to accommodate a screw been driven up into the joist?

No problem with that. Huge safety margin.

Mathew Newton Wrote in message:
On Tuesday, September 3, 2019 at 9:09:31 AM UTC+1, JimK wrote:

Turn the 3x2 90deg & fix it to the block wall without a head or
sole plate?

I have considered affixing directly to the wall but am conscious that lightweight blocks aren't the greatest of substrates to make secure attachments too and that utilising the fixed joists might be more straightforward (notwithstanding the fact that all my HSS bits are made of cheese but I can sort that out).


Glue the 3x2s to the block wall? MS polymer?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 02/09/2019 22:46, Mathew Newton wrote:
I need to batten out a block wall to accommodate some 75mm ducting runs and so, given the depth, will effectively be building a stud wall up against the existing wall.

I am wondering how best to secure the top plate given the presence of the joists hangers preventing me from screwing straight up into the joist, and thought about drilling a hole in the base of the hangers to allow me to do this?

Here's a picture of the hangers I've got:

http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/joisthanger.jpg

(Note that this is in another room where I've removed the ceiling, and where the existing plasterboard on the wall is still in place)

Is there any risk of weakening the hanger by drilling, say, a single 6mm hole in the base of the 'cradle' to accommodate a screw been driven up into the joist?



No risk at all IMHO.

BTW it looks like the plasterers did a good job, a nice continuous seam
of dot and dab at the top of the boards with no gaps.

--
Adam

On Tuesday, 3 September 2019 19:22:11 UTC+1, ARW wrote:

No risk at all IMHO.

Thanks Adam, everyone, will get drilling!

BTW it looks like the plasterers did a good job, a nice continuous seam
of dot and dab at the top of the boards with no gaps.

Yes, although there are some gaps at either end (and down the sides) so not perfect from an air tightness perspective. Better than many I've seen though!

On Tuesday, 3 September 2019 18:17:29 UTC+1, JimK wrote:
Mathew Newton Wrote in message:
On Tuesday, September 3, 2019 at 9:09:31 AM UTC+1, JimK wrote:

Turn the 3x2 90deg & fix it to the block wall without a head or
sole plate?

I have considered affixing directly to the wall but am conscious that lightweight blocks aren't the greatest of substrates to make secure attachments too and that utilising the fixed joists might be more straightforward (notwithstanding the fact that all my HSS bits are made of cheese but I can sort that out).


Glue the 3x2s to the block wall? MS polymer?

What is this guy smoking?

Wrote in message:
On Tuesday, 3 September 2019 18:17:29 UTC+1, JimK wrote:
Mathew Newton Wrote in message:
On Tuesday, September 3, 2019 at 9:09:31 AM UTC+1, JimK wrote:

Turn the 3x2 90deg & fix it to the block wall without a head or
sole plate?

I have considered affixing directly to the wall but am conscious that lightweight blocks aren't the greatest of substrates to make secure attachments too and that utilising the fixed joists might be more straightforward (notwithstanding the fact that all my HSS bits are made of cheese but I can sort that out).


Glue the 3x2s to the block wall? MS polymer?

What is this guy smoking?


Ah the familiar cat-****-stinking-armchair expert trolls on...
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On Wednesday, 4 September 2019 11:59:19 UTC+1, JimK wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Tuesday, 3 September 2019 18:17:29 UTC+1, JimK wrote:
Mathew Newton Wrote in message:
On Tuesday, September 3, 2019 at 9:09:31 AM UTC+1, JimK wrote:

Turn the 3x2 90deg & fix it to the block wall without a head or
sole plate?

I have considered affixing directly to the wall but am conscious that lightweight blocks aren't the greatest of substrates to make secure attachments too and that utilising the fixed joists might be more straightforward (notwithstanding the fact that all my HSS bits are made of cheese but I can sort that out).


Glue the 3x2s to the block wall? MS polymer?

What is this guy smoking?


Ah the familiar cat-****-stinking-armchair expert trolls on...

Funny to hear someone who seems to do about zero diy say that to someone who does it more days than not. But whatever, you never contribute, other than the occasional nuts suggestion. Plonk.

On 03/09/2019 22:13, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Tuesday, 3 September 2019 19:22:11 UTC+1, ARW wrote:

BTW it looks like the plasterers did a good job, a nice continuous seam
of dot and dab at the top of the boards with no gaps.

Yes, although there are some gaps at either end (and down the sides) so not perfect from an air tightness perspective. Better than many I've seen though!


You see some of the **** I see at work on new builds.

And a bit of air movement keeps the damp away:-)

Some years ago when coal was losing it top position as King of heating
houses (I suppose it depends where you lived in the country as to what
fuel you used in those days) my Dad [1] went to a seminar about the
benefits of coal fire.

The speaker asked the audience "Name all the benefits of a coal fire"

Some of the replies were

1. You can spit on it
2. You can burn everything without having to go out to the dustbin
(and that is when the dustbin men carried the bin from your garden)
3. You can burn evidence before the wife sees it
4. Santa needs the chimney



[1] He was a subsidence engineer for NCB/British Coal


--
Adam

Wrote in message:
On Wednesday, 4 September 2019 11:59:19 UTC+1, JimK wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Tuesday, 3 September 2019 18:17:29 UTC+1, JimK wrote:
Mathew Newton Wrote in message:
On Tuesday, September 3, 2019 at 9:09:31 AM UTC+1, JimK wrote:

Turn the 3x2 90deg & fix it to the block wall without a head or
sole plate?

I have considered affixing directly to the wall but am conscious that lightweight blocks aren't the greatest of substrates to make secure attachments too and that utilising the fixed joists might be more straightforward (notwithstanding the fact that all my HSS bits are made of cheese but I can sort that out).


Glue the 3x2s to the block wall? MS polymer?

What is this guy smoking?


Ah the familiar cat-****-stinking-armchair expert trolls on...

Funny to hear someone who seems to do about zero diy say that to someone who does it more days than not. But whatever, you never contribute, other than the occasional nuts suggestion. Plonk.


The "nuts suggestion" being - using a construction adhesive to
adhere 75mm deep timbers to a block wall (that is difficult to
securely screw into), to create a 75mm void for a 75mm
conduit?

And you unsurprisingly think thats nuts? FFS :-D:-D

I think you'd better stop your clearly confused "contributions" as
you apparently cannot understand nor visualise either the problem
or a possible solution when it's proffered! ;-)

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On Wednesday, 4 September 2019 18:48:15 UTC+1, JimK wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Wednesday, 4 September 2019 11:59:19 UTC+1, JimK wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Tuesday, 3 September 2019 18:17:29 UTC+1, JimK wrote:
Mathew Newton Wrote in message:
On Tuesday, September 3, 2019 at 9:09:31 AM UTC+1, JimK wrote:

Turn the 3x2 90deg & fix it to the block wall without a head or
sole plate?

I have considered affixing directly to the wall but am conscious that lightweight blocks aren't the greatest of substrates to make secure attachments too and that utilising the fixed joists might be more straightforward (notwithstanding the fact that all my HSS bits are made of cheese but I can sort that out).


Glue the 3x2s to the block wall? MS polymer?

What is this guy smoking?


Ah the familiar cat-****-stinking-armchair expert trolls on...

Funny to hear someone who seems to do about zero diy say that to someone who does it more days than not. But whatever, you never contribute, other than the occasional nuts suggestion. Plonk.


The "nuts suggestion" being - using a construction adhesive to
adhere 75mm deep timbers to a block wall (that is difficult to
securely screw into), to create a 75mm void for a 75mm
conduit?

And you unsurprisingly think thats nuts? FFS :-D:-D

I think you'd better stop your clearly confused "contributions" as
you apparently cannot understand nor visualise either the problem
or a possible solution when it's proffered! ;-)

You offered 2 nuts 'solutions' to the OP's wish to drill a hole to fix a header to.


NT

Wrote in message:
On Wednesday, 4 September 2019 18:48:15 UTC+1, JimK wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Wednesday, 4 September 2019 11:59:19 UTC+1, JimK wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Tuesday, 3 September 2019 18:17:29 UTC+1, JimK wrote:
Mathew Newton Wrote in message:
On Tuesday, September 3, 2019 at 9:09:31 AM UTC+1, JimK wrote:

Turn the 3x2 90deg & fix it to the block wall without a head or
sole plate?

I have considered affixing directly to the wall but am conscious that lightweight blocks aren't the greatest of substrates to make secure attachments too and that utilising the fixed joists might be more straightforward (notwithstanding the fact that all my HSS bits are made of cheese but I can sort that out).


Glue the 3x2s to the block wall? MS polymer?

What is this guy smoking?


Ah the familiar cat-****-stinking-armchair expert trolls on...

Funny to hear someone who seems to do about zero diy say that to someone who does it more days than not. But whatever, you never contribute, other than the occasional nuts suggestion. Plonk.


The "nuts suggestion" being - using a construction adhesive to
adhere 75mm deep timbers to a block wall (that is difficult to
securely screw into), to create a 75mm void for a 75mm
conduit?

And you unsurprisingly think thats nuts? FFS :-D:-D

I think you'd better stop your clearly confused "contributions" as
you apparently cannot understand nor visualise either the problem
or a possible solution when it's proffered! ;-)

You offered 2 nuts 'solutions' to the OP's wish to drill a hole to fix a header to.


NT


You're plonking is still as poor as your lateral thinking tabby-troll.
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On Monday, 2 September 2019 22:46:21 UTC+1, Mathew Newton wrote:
I need to batten out a block wall to accommodate some 75mm ducting runs and so, given the depth, will effectively be building a stud wall up against the existing wall.

I am wondering how best to secure the top plate given the presence of the joists hangers preventing me from screwing straight up into the joist, and thought about drilling a hole in the base of the hangers to allow me to do this?

To close this one off; I ended up drilling a 5mm hole on the underside of each joist hanger as recommended and screwing the top plate through into the joist above. Everything went well and the frame is now securely in place.

Given that all my drill bits for metal are the ones made of cheese you get in a 1000-in-1 kit for a fiver I decided to 'splash out' on a DeWalt cobalt HSS bit from Screwfix (https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-he...questid=151509) and it was like the proverbial hot knife through butter and no pilot hole was needed.