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Default Cutting laminate worktop

On 15/08/2019 11:41, GB wrote:
On 14/08/2019 15:22, TMH wrote:
On 13/08/2019 20:18, GB wrote:

I am replacing a single length of worktop.

I need to make a cut out for a sink in the new 28mm chipboard
laminate. I *think* I'm going to be using a Bosch 101B jigsaw blade.
That's marketed as a 'clean cut' blade.

I'm wondering whether I should work from the good side of the
laminate, or should I turn the worktop over and run the jigsaw from
the underside of the worktop? The 101B blade cuts on the upstroke.


As long as you use a decent blade any minor chips will be covered by
the lip of the sink.Â* Masking tape helps in 2 ways, easier to see cut
line & helps prevent chipping.


I also need to shorten the worktop a bit, and I'd like to use the
circular saw for that. Is that going to make a mess of the laminate?
Again, which side of the worktop should I work from? The cut edge
will be hidden by a bead of silicon, but I don't want to have to use
a huge bead just to cover the chips.


Cut from the back starting at the rounded edge. Use a saw board or
guide and make sure the cut is supported both sides.

I know that the right way to do this is to cut it over-length and
finish off with a router, but I'm trying to keep this job as simple
as possible. I have already packed a boot full of tools for this one
small job. Am I going to regret not using the router?


Not necessary.


Finally, I'm going to be reusing the old sink. Can I just silicone
that in, using whatever rubber seal is still there, or do I need a
special mastic?

I've always used silicone.


Can I thank everyone for the input. The job went very well.

We inverted the worktop and cut it to length with the circular saw. That
gave a reasonably clean cut.

We turned the worktop right way up, taped where we wanted to cut, and
used the ancient B&D jigsaw. The only thing I would do differently is
that I'd cut the hole slightly oversize to begin with. It saves about 15
minutes shaving bits off the hole afterwards!

Whilst waiting for the sealer round the hole to dry, we prized off the
mastic from the old sink (another 15 minutes job) and ran a generous
bead of silicone round. We also made a hole in the sink for the tap.
(The Ikea Fixa tool works a treat and is not expensive.)

Then, working from underneath, we put enough of the old clamps back to
hold the sink in place. Then turned it over yet again to fit the rest of
the clamps and the tap.




Really helpful to get a feedback report on how the job went. Wish more
people would do this.
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