A couple of questions to help with someone I know not making some
mistakes with additional costs associated with a partial kitchen reburb
that is being planned.

One of the changes being considered is replacing a narrow oven with an
electric oven that is 0.9 metre or 1 metre wide, with integral 5 burner
gas hob.

In the preferred position it means that the existing cooker (isolating)
switch would be approx 30/40cm above one of the burners. I would think
this is unacceptable with regards regulations and additional costs will
be incurred in employing an qualified electrician to change the wiring.
However perhaps the potential costs could be minimised:

i) could the existing switch be removed and the wires joined in a
acceptable manner in the existing back box which will then be later
tiled over, perhaps with protective cover plate over the back box.?

ii) judging by the difference in plaster work, the feed to the existing
cooker switch comes down vertically from the ceiling. Can a new switch
be fitted much higher up this feed. Here lies another question, how high
up can the switch be fitted as it may need to be a above a cooker hood?
Does it need to be easily accessible?

iii) could the switch be moved horizontally from the existing backbox by
channeling out the wall and running new wire from the is backbox
(connected to the existing wires)? And how near (horizontally) from the
hob could the switch be fitted? There would be approx 45 cm between the
edge of the hob and the architrave for a door.

Some of the channeling etc could be carried out by the householder to
minimise costs but at present little consideration seems to have been
given to the "hidden" consequences of just replacing a cooker, and a few
other items, with something different.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Thursday, 1 August 2019 21:00:04 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:

A couple of questions to help with someone I know not making some
mistakes with additional costs associated with a partial kitchen reburb
that is being planned.

One of the changes being considered is replacing a narrow oven with an
electric oven that is 0.9 metre or 1 metre wide, with integral 5 burner
gas hob.

In the preferred position it means that the existing cooker (isolating)
switch would be approx 30/40cm above one of the burners. I would think
this is unacceptable with regards regulations and additional costs will
be incurred in employing an qualified electrician to change the wiring.
However perhaps the potential costs could be minimised:

i) could the existing switch be removed and the wires joined in a
acceptable manner in the existing back box which will then be later
tiled over, perhaps with protective cover plate over the back box.?

ii) judging by the difference in plaster work, the feed to the existing
cooker switch comes down vertically from the ceiling. Can a new switch
be fitted much higher up this feed. Here lies another question, how high
up can the switch be fitted as it may need to be a above a cooker hood?
Does it need to be easily accessible?

iii) could the switch be moved horizontally from the existing backbox by
channeling out the wall and running new wire from the is backbox
(connected to the existing wires)? And how near (horizontally) from the
hob could the switch be fitted? There would be approx 45 cm between the
edge of the hob and the architrave for a door.

Some of the channeling etc could be carried out by the householder to
minimise costs but at present little consideration seems to have been
given to the "hidden" consequences of just replacing a cooker, and a few
other items, with something different.

Unless you regularly cater for large numbers of people, do cooking shows or similar, do yourself a favour & don't bother. If you must, inaccessible connections are best made with crimps. They can also be soldered, but many do it wrongly.


NT

On 02/08/2019 01:39, wrote:


Unless you regularly cater for large numbers of people, do cooking shows or similar, do yourself a favour & don't bother. If you must, inaccessible connections are best made with crimps. They can also be soldered, but many do it wrongly.



Not my cooker, lifestyle or really my problem. I'm just trying to see if
there is compromise solution that may save some money for someone I know.



--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 01/08/2019 21:00, alan_m wrote:
i) could the existing switch be removed and the wires joined in a
acceptable manner in the existing back box which will then be later
tiled over, perhaps with protective cover plate over the back box.?

[snip]

iii) could the switch be moved horizontally from the existing backbox by
channeling out the wall and running new wire from the is backbox
(connected to the existing wires)? And how near (horizontally) from the
hob could the switch be fitted?Â* There would be approx 45 cm between the
edge of the hob and the architrave for a door.

Bear in mind that the safe zones for cables feeding the switch are the
vertical and horizontal lines through it.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...lectric_cables

Extending the cable sideways and tiling over the joint in the backbox
results in the original vertical drop no longer being in a safe zone and
there's a danger of someone assuming it's safe to drill into the wall there.

One solution would be to chase out the vertical cable and re-route it
along the top of the wall within 150mm of the ceiling and then down to
the new switch via a joint in a backbox at the top of the new vertical
section.

An alternative cheap and cheerful solution if you extend horizontally
from the existing backbox to be tiled over would be to fix a blanking
plate to the top of the wall wall as a marker vertically above the old
switch.

On 01/08/2019 21:00, alan_m wrote:

A couple of questions to help with someone I know not making some
mistakes with additional costs associated with a partial kitchen reburb
that is being planned.

One of the changes being considered is replacing a narrow oven with an
electric oven that is 0.9 metre or 1 metre wide, with integral 5 burner
gas hob.

In the preferred position it means that the existing cooker (isolating)
switch would be approx 30/40cm above one of the burners. I would think
this is unacceptable with regards regulations and additional costs will
be incurred in employing an qualified electrician to change the wiring.
However perhaps the potential costs could be minimised:

Directly above a hob is not ideal. =300mm or so to the side is the
normal guideline.

i) could the existing switch be removed and the wires joined in a
acceptable manner in the existing back box which will then be later
tiled over, perhaps with protective cover plate over the back box.?

If the cable is in the wall, then it needs to line up with a visible
accessory (unless its within 150mm of a corner, or mechanically
protected by earthed metal shielding)...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...lectric_cables


ii) judging by the difference in plaster work, the feed to the existing
cooker switch comes down vertically from the ceiling. Can a new switch
be fitted much higher up this feed. Here lies another question, how high
up can the switch be fitted as it may need to be a above a cooker hood?
Does it need to be easily accessible?

Is the a gas oven/hob, where the electrical supply is just for clock /
ignition, or is it an electric oven? If the electricity is used for
powering a cooking function, then a means of isolation needs to be
readily to hand. Something where you need to climb above a (potentially
lit) hob would be less than ideal.

iii) could the switch be moved horizontally from the existing backbox by
channeling out the wall and running new wire from the is backbox
(connected to the existing wires)? And how near (horizontally) from the
hob could the switch be fitted?Â* There would be approx 45 cm between the
edge of the hob and the architrave for a door.

Yup you could do that. You would need to leave a blanking plate or
similar over the existing switch position so that you can "see" the
likely cable routes.

Some of the channeling etc could be carried out by the householder to
minimise costs but at present little consideration seems to have been
given to the "hidden" consequences of just replacing a cooker, and a few
other items, with something different.

Often the case...


--
Cheers,

John.

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\================================================= ================/

On Friday, 2 August 2019 11:37:59 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

Is the a gas oven/hob, where the electrical supply is just for clock /
ignition, or is it an electric oven? If the electricity is used for
powering a cooking function, then a means of isolation needs to be
readily to hand. Something where you need to climb above a (potentially
lit) hob would be less than ideal.

Does the need for a nearby isolator apply to electric ovens without a hob as well?


NT

On 02/08/2019 17:51, wrote:
On Friday, 2 August 2019 11:37:59 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

Is the a gas oven/hob, where the electrical supply is just for clock /
ignition, or is it an electric oven? If the electricity is used for
powering a cooking function, then a means of isolation needs to be
readily to hand. Something where you need to climb above a (potentially
lit) hob would be less than ideal.

Does the need for a nearby isolator apply to electric ovens without a hob as well?

Yup... anything that could catch fire and need a way of turning off
without getting up too close an personal.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/