Hi all,

As you guys can often come up with some good out of the box thinking.
;-)

I have an old but very clean (because it's galvanised) adjustable
dinghy trailer that needs some unavailable parts.

Basically it's made from telescoping box section steel tube with holes
though both sections at fixed intervals with a couple of bolts though
each joint to hold the adjustment' (length / width) in place.

However, at each end of the sliding joint there were 'plastic'
collars, to take up any difference between the section dimensions. It
seems these were designed in such a way that prevented you from
actually taking the trailer to bits and so any that were still
remaining when I bought it (second hand) were damaged as it was taken
down to be delivered to me in a car.

Now, I might be able to design and print some replacement items (in
PLA) but in the short term I was wondering if there was a suitably
'strong' tape that might do what was required.

And that would be something that could be bound round the inner
section tube (at the key points at the different positions etc) so
that it can still be easily slid into the larger tube(s), offer some
resistance to the tubes twisting inside each other (axle sections
mainly) and just help to keep the whole thing from clanking when it
goes over holes and bumps.

eg, Insulating tape would be too soft and probably just get crushed
when built up to the required (~1.5mm) thickness so I was wondering if
a metal (chrome) tape might work better?

a 3D printed 'sleeve' would be basically a square box section, about
40 mm long with ~1.5mm thick walls and rounded corners. It would want
to be a close interference fit on the inner section tube (and possibly
glued / pinned into place) and a light sliding fit on the inside of
the larger section tube.

Ideas?

Cheers, T i m

On 25/04/2019 14:19, T i m wrote:
Hi all,

As you guys can often come up with some good out of the box thinking.
;-)

I have an old but very clean (because it's galvanised) adjustable
dinghy trailer that needs some unavailable parts.

Basically it's made from telescoping box section steel tube with holes
though both sections at fixed intervals with a couple of bolts though
each joint to hold the adjustment' (length / width) in place.

However, at each end of the sliding joint there were 'plastic'
collars, to take up any difference between the section dimensions. It
seems these were designed in such a way that prevented you from
actually taking the trailer to bits and so any that were still
remaining when I bought it (second hand) were damaged as it was taken
down to be delivered to me in a car.

Now, I might be able to design and print some replacement items (in
PLA) but in the short term I was wondering if there was a suitably
'strong' tape that might do what was required.

And that would be something that could be bound round the inner
section tube (at the key points at the different positions etc) so
that it can still be easily slid into the larger tube(s), offer some
resistance to the tubes twisting inside each other (axle sections
mainly) and just help to keep the whole thing from clanking when it
goes over holes and bumps.

eg, Insulating tape would be too soft and probably just get crushed
when built up to the required (~1.5mm) thickness so I was wondering if
a metal (chrome) tape might work better?

a 3D printed 'sleeve' would be basically a square box section, about
40 mm long with ~1.5mm thick walls and rounded corners. It would want
to be a close interference fit on the inner section tube (and possibly
glued / pinned into place) and a light sliding fit on the inside of
the larger section tube.

Ideas?

Cheers, T i m



I got some UV resistant tape that looks like yellow ptfe tape,
but a lot thicker. Seems to survive outdoors quite well.
Screwfix sell it.

On Thu, 25 Apr 2019 14:37:01 +0100, Andrew
wrote:

snip

I got some UV resistant tape that looks like yellow ptfe tape,
but a lot thicker.

Is it sticky (unlike PTFE etc?)

Seems to survive outdoors quite well.

Whilst is will often be 'outdoors', that normally seems to relate to
exposure to the sun / UV etc and on this trailer, only the bands that
aren't within the tubes will be exposed and there shouldn't be in this
case (or not for long) as part of the point is that it will be stored
indoors (in a garage) in kit form.

Screwfix sell it.

Cool, I'll check it out, thanks. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On 25/04/2019 20:26, T i m wrote:
On Thu, 25 Apr 2019 14:37:01 +0100, Andrew
wrote:

snip

I got some UV resistant tape that looks like yellow ptfe tape,
but a lot thicker.

Is it sticky (unlike PTFE etc?)


*very*. It's quite a struggle to get it off the roll.


Seems to survive outdoors quite well.

Whilst is will often be 'outdoors', that normally seems to relate to
exposure to the sun / UV etc and on this trailer, only the bands that
aren't within the tubes will be exposed and there shouldn't be in this
case (or not for long) as part of the point is that it will be stored
indoors (in a garage) in kit form.

Screwfix sell it.

Cool, I'll check it out, thanks. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Thu, 25 Apr 2019 22:07:12 +0100, Andrew
wrote:

On 25/04/2019 20:26, T i m wrote:
On Thu, 25 Apr 2019 14:37:01 +0100, Andrew
wrote:

snip

I got some UV resistant tape that looks like yellow ptfe tape,
but a lot thicker.

Is it sticky (unlike PTFE etc?)


*very*. It's quite a struggle to get it off the roll.


Thanks for the update, I'll check it out.

Obviously, with any form of 'tape' I may have to be careful when
feeding the tubes into each other that I don't snag / ruck it up. I'm
less bothered with it deforming in place as I'm sure I could still get
the thing apart with some heat or solvent etc.

Cheers, T i m

On Thursday, 25 April 2019 14:19:51 UTC+1, T i m wrote:
Hi all,

As you guys can often come up with some good out of the box thinking.
;-)

I have an old but very clean (because it's galvanised) adjustable
dinghy trailer that needs some unavailable parts.

Basically it's made from telescoping box section steel tube with holes
though both sections at fixed intervals with a couple of bolts though
each joint to hold the adjustment' (length / width) in place.

However, at each end of the sliding joint there were 'plastic'
collars, to take up any difference between the section dimensions. It
seems these were designed in such a way that prevented you from
actually taking the trailer to bits and so any that were still
remaining when I bought it (second hand) were damaged as it was taken
down to be delivered to me in a car.

Now, I might be able to design and print some replacement items (in
PLA) but in the short term I was wondering if there was a suitably
'strong' tape that might do what was required.

And that would be something that could be bound round the inner
section tube (at the key points at the different positions etc) so
that it can still be easily slid into the larger tube(s), offer some
resistance to the tubes twisting inside each other (axle sections
mainly) and just help to keep the whole thing from clanking when it
goes over holes and bumps.

eg, Insulating tape would be too soft and probably just get crushed
when built up to the required (~1.5mm) thickness so I was wondering if
a metal (chrome) tape might work better?

a 3D printed 'sleeve' would be basically a square box section, about
40 mm long with ~1.5mm thick walls and rounded corners. It would want
to be a close interference fit on the inner section tube (and possibly
glued / pinned into place) and a light sliding fit on the inside of
the larger section tube.

Ideas?

Cheers, T i m


The strongest tapes are duct & that glass fibre stuff. Duct tape gets used to make belts & can be pretty strong, but I'd not like trying what you're talking about with it. Layers can slide, edges ruck up etc, and it's not a hard material.

I've never used chrome tape, I presume it's mostly plastic though.


NT

On Thu, 25 Apr 2019 07:27:56 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

snip

The strongest tapes are duct & that glass fibre stuff.

I've used that fibreglass tape and we in my mind for this task. It's
also very sticky.

Duct tape gets used to make belts & can be pretty strong, but I'd not like trying what you're talking about with it.

I don't think I would either. It may be a bit soft for that role.

Layers can slide, edges ruck up etc, and it's not a hard material.

Quite.

I've never used chrome tape, I presume it's mostly plastic though.

I think it used to be actual metal and I think was banned because the
edges can be very sharp.

Cheers, T i m

On 25/04/2019 14:19, T i m wrote:
Hi all,

As you guys can often come up with some good out of the box thinking.
;-)

I have an old but very clean (because it's galvanised) adjustable
dinghy trailer that needs some unavailable parts.

Basically it's made from telescoping box section steel tube with holes
though both sections at fixed intervals with a couple of bolts though
each joint to hold the adjustment' (length / width) in place.

However, at each end of the sliding joint there were 'plastic'
collars, to take up any difference between the section dimensions. It
seems these were designed in such a way that prevented you from
actually taking the trailer to bits and so any that were still
remaining when I bought it (second hand) were damaged as it was taken
down to be delivered to me in a car.

Now, I might be able to design and print some replacement items (in
PLA) but in the short term I was wondering if there was a suitably
'strong' tape that might do what was required.

And that would be something that could be bound round the inner
section tube (at the key points at the different positions etc) so
that it can still be easily slid into the larger tube(s), offer some
resistance to the tubes twisting inside each other (axle sections
mainly) and just help to keep the whole thing from clanking when it
goes over holes and bumps.

eg, Insulating tape would be too soft and probably just get crushed
when built up to the required (~1.5mm) thickness so I was wondering if
a metal (chrome) tape might work better?

a 3D printed 'sleeve' would be basically a square box section, about
40 mm long with ~1.5mm thick walls and rounded corners. It would want
to be a close interference fit on the inner section tube (and possibly
glued / pinned into place) and a light sliding fit on the inside of
the larger section tube.

Ideas?

Yes don't use PLA, its brittle.
Can you print nylon?

Polyimide tape might work.
Its the reddish brown stuff you find on 3D printers for some things.

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/s?k=kapto...f=nb_sb_noss_1

On Thu, 25 Apr 2019 16:47:03 +0100, "dennis@home"
wrote:

snip

Ideas?

Yes don't use PLA, its brittle.

Whilst it might be, from the tests I've done on it I think it would be
pretty strong.

Can you print nylon?

Not tried tbh.

Polyimide tape might work.
Its the reddish brown stuff you find on 3D printers for some things.

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/s?k=kapto...f=nb_sb_noss_1

Kapton tape, yes I have some here (but not as wide as I think would be
appropriate for this role) and yes, that is pretty tough stuff.

Cheers, T i m

On Thursday, 25 April 2019 14:19:51 UTC+1, T i m wrote:
Hi all,

As you guys can often come up with some good out of the box thinking.
;-)

I have this roll of stuff I got years ago for something at work.

https://www.rapidonline.com/toolcraf...m-250g-51-2178

Perhaps to string a student up ;-)

it's been discontoinued by rapid it'd be ok in a tug of war sort of stress but it's easy to break with fingers accross the width.
Probbaly not what you're looking for but.....

I assume you need it to make sure something 'remains' in place rather than leaves ;-)

How could I resist

On Thu, 25 Apr 2019 08:53:12 -0700 (PDT), whisky-dave
wrote:

On Thursday, 25 April 2019 14:19:51 UTC+1, T i m wrote:
Hi all,

As you guys can often come up with some good out of the box thinking.
;-)

I have this roll of stuff I got years ago for something at work.

https://www.rapidonline.com/toolcraf...m-250g-51-2178

Thanks. Would you say it's as 'soft' as say gaffer tape, if you
overlaid it say 5 times, how 'hard' would the resultant be?

Cheers, T i m

On Thursday, 25 April 2019 20:54:52 UTC+1, T i m wrote:
On Thu, 25 Apr 2019 08:53:12 -0700 (PDT), whisky-dave
wrote:

On Thursday, 25 April 2019 14:19:51 UTC+1, T i m wrote:
Hi all,

As you guys can often come up with some good out of the box thinking.
;-)

I have this roll of stuff I got years ago for something at work.

https://www.rapidonline.com/toolcraf...m-250g-51-2178

Thanks. Would you say it's as 'soft' as say gaffer tape, if you
overlaid it say 5 times, how 'hard' would the resultant be?

It's soft and not really a tape (i.e not sticky) more a collection of fine threads which you can stick your finger through.


Cheers, T i m

On 25/04/2019 14:19, T i m wrote:
Hi all,

As you guys can often come up with some good out of the box thinking.
;-)

snip

Ideas?

Cheers, T i m

I wonder if large heat shrink tubing might do the job? Tougher than
tape I would think. Or some wraps of fibreglass.

Cheers
--
Clive

On Thu, 25 Apr 2019 16:55:35 +0100, Clive Arthur
wrote:

snip

I wonder if large heat shrink tubing might do the job?

I actually thought of that one but it would have to be pretty 'large',
well, compared to what h/s I've had / used in the past. ;-)

Tougher than
tape I would think.

Yes, I agree.

Or some wraps of fibreglass.

Ah, a couple of turns of some woven roving 'bandage' and stippled with
resin. Not only could that be applied where I like (and would likely
stay there) and to whatever thickness was needed but could be 'worked'
slightly to trim / true with a file etc.

I think the radiuses on the corners would be gentle enough for it to
not 'lift' off them.

I think this, subject to getting the right thickness might be a good
solution.

Or use carbon fibre tape / resin?

Cheers, T i m

On 25/04/2019 14:19, T i m wrote:
Hi all,

As you guys can often come up with some good out of the box thinking.
;-)

I have an old but very clean (because it's galvanised) adjustable
dinghy trailer that needs some unavailable parts.

Basically it's made from telescoping box section steel tube with holes
though both sections at fixed intervals with a couple of bolts though
each joint to hold the adjustment' (length / width) in place.

However, at each end of the sliding joint there were 'plastic'
collars, to take up any difference between the section dimensions. It
seems these were designed in such a way that prevented you from
actually taking the trailer to bits and so any that were still
remaining when I bought it (second hand) were damaged as it was taken
down to be delivered to me in a car.

Now, I might be able to design and print some replacement items (in
PLA) but in the short term I was wondering if there was a suitably
'strong' tape that might do what was required.

And that would be something that could be bound round the inner
section tube (at the key points at the different positions etc) so
that it can still be easily slid into the larger tube(s), offer some
resistance to the tubes twisting inside each other (axle sections
mainly) and just help to keep the whole thing from clanking when it
goes over holes and bumps.

eg, Insulating tape would be too soft and probably just get crushed
when built up to the required (~1.5mm) thickness so I was wondering if
a metal (chrome) tape might work better?

a 3D printed 'sleeve' would be basically a square box section, about
40 mm long with ~1.5mm thick walls and rounded corners. It would want
to be a close interference fit on the inner section tube (and possibly
glued / pinned into place) and a light sliding fit on the inside of
the larger section tube.

Ideas?

Cheers, T i m


I don't think you need to have something that goes all the way around
the tube so a rubbing strip on each face should do. Rivet some nylon or
(insert your choice of plastic) strips onto the four faces.
Alternatively, could you screw round head s/s self tappers into the box
section so that their heads provided the rubbing surface?

On Thu, 25 Apr 2019 18:34:30 +0100, wrote:

snip


I don't think you need to have something that goes all the way around
the tube so a rubbing strip on each face should do.

Agreed, although something on the corners (only even) might have a
greater effect (think a multipoint ring spanner versus a straight hex
one)?

Rivet some nylon or
(insert your choice of plastic) strips onto the four faces.

Yup, or small countersunk machine screws, maybe just two in the line
with the tube across the middle (away from the corners) Loctited in
place?

Alternatively, could you screw round head s/s self tappers into the box
section so that their heads provided the rubbing surface?

Hmm, I get what you are saying but that would create a point load and
not offer much give or noise damping.

Thanks for even more good feedback. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Thu, 25 Apr 2019 14:19:51 +0100
T i m wrote:

Hi all,

As you guys can often come up with some good out of the box thinking.
;-)

I have an old but very clean (because it's galvanised) adjustable
dinghy trailer that needs some unavailable parts.

Basically it's made from telescoping box section steel tube with holes
though both sections at fixed intervals with a couple of bolts though
each joint to hold the adjustment' (length / width) in place.

However, at each end of the sliding joint there were 'plastic'
collars, to take up any difference between the section dimensions. It
seems these were designed in such a way that prevented you from
actually taking the trailer to bits and so any that were still
remaining when I bought it (second hand) were damaged as it was taken
down to be delivered to me in a car.

Now, I might be able to design and print some replacement items (in
PLA) but in the short term I was wondering if there was a suitably
'strong' tape that might do what was required.

Hot glue.

On Thu, 25 Apr 2019 19:37:04 +0100, Rob Morley
wrote:

snip


Hot glue.

I'm guessing you mean 'just' hot glue there Rob, rather than attaching
something with hot glue?

I think that could work, but I'm not sure how I would get it
sufficiently uniform, given that it only needs to be ~1.5mm thick all
over?

Cheers, T i m

On Thu, 25 Apr 2019 21:10:09 +0100
T i m wrote:

I'm guessing you mean 'just' hot glue there Rob, rather than attaching
something with hot glue?

I think that could work, but I'm not sure how I would get it
sufficiently uniform, given that it only needs to be ~1.5mm thick all
over?

Just put the tubes in place with something to space them evenly, and
squirt hot glue in the ends and around the fixing holes. Made-to-
measure injection moulded bushes (if you're lucky).

T i m
Now, I might be able to design and print some replacement items (in
PLA) but in the short term I was wondering if there was a suitably
'strong' tape that might do what was required.

And that would be something that could be bound round the inner
section tube (at the key points at the different positions etc) so
that it can still be easily slid into the larger tube(s), offer some
resistance to the tubes twisting inside each other (axle sections
mainly) and just help to keep the whole thing from clanking when it
goes over holes and bumps.

eg, Insulating tape would be too soft and probably just get crushed
when built up to the required (~1.5mm) thickness so I was wondering if
a metal (chrome) tape might work better?

a 3D printed 'sleeve' would be basically a square box section, about
40 mm long with ~1.5mm thick walls and rounded corners. It would want
to be a close interference fit on the inner section tube (and possibly
glued / pinned into place) and a light sliding fit on the inside of
the larger section tube.

Ideas?

Cheers, T i m




Handlebar tape may have some of the properties you want, though there are
different types so you may need to look at what particular properties a
version has.

Elsewhere in the thread someone mentioned chrome tape, another metallic
tape that is fairly tough is the aluminium tape intended to hold /seal
sections of flue pipe together.

GH

On 25/04/2019 21:28, Marland wrote:

8

Elsewhere in the thread someone mentioned chrome tape, another metallic
tape that is fairly tough is the aluminium tape intended to hold /seal
sections of flue pipe together.


Seal yes, hold together no.

On 25 Apr 2019 20:28:09 GMT, Marland
wrote:

snip


Handlebar tape may have some of the properties you want, though there are
different types so you may need to look at what particular properties a
version has.

Ok.

Elsewhere in the thread someone mentioned chrome tape,

Me. ;-)

another metallic
tape that is fairly tough is the aluminium tape intended to hold /seal
sections of flue pipe together.

Ah, yes, I know the stuff and yes, it may well be the sort of thing I
was thinking of because:

It is quite thin but with only a very thin layer of adhesive.

The 'tape' part is quite hard (being aluminium rather than PVC etc).

It should be quite resilient to compression, the only real force it
might experience (as the tubes twist against each other (axle
sections) or press top to bottom (longitudinal section).

It comes in reasonable width rolls (75mm etc), helping to spread the
load etc.

Being in the form of a tape I can apply as many turns as I like till I
get the right fit (then rinse / repeat on the other locations).

It should also be reasonably easy to get locally to try at least or
use atm, till I can come up with something more 'mechanical).

Cheers, T i m

In article ,
says...
snip
Ideas?

Cheers, T i m


Can you set it up as you want it, then drill new holes about 30mm from
the end of the outer and add new bolts, suitably oriented, to stiffen
the end. Perhaps with shims slipped in, either metal shims or those
plastic shims that window fitters use. I expect they aren't very robust,
but they are cheap. They go in 1mm steps.

On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 12:24:25 +0100, Mike
wrote:

In article ,
says...
snip
Ideas?

Cheers, T i m


Can you set it up as you want it, then drill new holes about 30mm from
the end of the outer and add new bolts, suitably oriented, to stiffen
the end. Perhaps with shims slipped in, either metal shims or those
plastic shims that window fitters use. I expect they aren't very robust,
but they are cheap. They go in 1mm steps.

I'm not sure if it would affect your solution but the idea is that it
would be stored in pieces and put together to suite the particular job
in hand.

I actually put it together today and with only my Mrs 'helping', it
was quite tricky to line up because 1) the bits are quite heavy and
want to go all over the place and 2) the gap between the sections is
only ~1.5 mm or so so unless initially lined up reasonably well they
don't go together.

I know the shims though and I think the 1mm ones are solid plastic and
so shouldn't collapse under the pressure, if I could fix them in
place?

Cheers, T i m

On 25/04/2019 14:19, T i m wrote:

a 3D printed 'sleeve' would be basically a square box section, about
40 mm long with ~1.5mm thick walls and rounded corners. It would want
to be a close interference fit on the inner section tube (and possibly
glued / pinned into place) and a light sliding fit on the inside of
the larger section tube.

Ideas?

My 2p worth is simply to build up a thin fibreglass sleeve where you
want it on the inner tube. It's robust and easy to shape.

Fibreglass won't be at all easy to remove if you do eventually make
something on the 3D printer, but OTOH it will last indefinitely, so you
won't need to make anything on the 3D printer.

On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 14:06:56 +0100, GB
wrote:

On 25/04/2019 14:19, T i m wrote:

a 3D printed 'sleeve' would be basically a square box section, about
40 mm long with ~1.5mm thick walls and rounded corners. It would want
to be a close interference fit on the inner section tube (and possibly
glued / pinned into place) and a light sliding fit on the inside of
the larger section tube.

Ideas?

My 2p worth is simply to build up a thin fibreglass sleeve where you
want it on the inner tube. It's robust and easy to shape.

That does sound like the most straightforward solution (and I have
resin, catalyst, chopped stand mat, some woven bandage and tissue
etc).

Fibreglass won't be at all easy to remove if you do eventually make
something on the 3D printer,

I bet.

but OTOH it will last indefinitely, so you
won't need to make anything on the 3D printer.

Good point. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

If I'm visualising the thing correctly I'd think about coating the hole in the outer component with release agent then roughening the inner component and coating that with a strong two part epoxy reinforced with fibreglass. Slide it into the outer and let it cure.

On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 09:21:30 -0700 (PDT), Cynic
wrote:

If I'm visualising the thing correctly I'd think about coating the hole in the outer component with release agent then roughening the inner component and coating that with a strong two part epoxy reinforced with fibreglass. Slide it into the outer and let it cure.

I get the idea ... to make a 'fitted' sleeve and if it worked, could
be a good solution. However, (and knowing my luck), I'd just end up
bonding the two parts together! ;-(

Cheers, T i m