Hi all

I have a light fitting in the hall which I am quite happy with.
The down side is that bulbs keep failing.
It takes push in G9 clear 40w bulbs which are housed in frosted
glass "shades" 38mm inside dia.

The questions a

Would LED equivalents be more robust/last longer?
I prefer brighter light these days - can LEDs produce decent white
light?
Which suppliers are recommended for quality?

Thanks

Phil


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On Sunday, 14 April 2019 14:57:07 UTC+1, TheChief wrote:

Hi all

I have a light fitting in the hall which I am quite happy with.
The down side is that bulbs keep failing.
It takes push in G9 clear 40w bulbs which are housed in frosted
glass "shades" 38mm inside dia.

The questions a

Would LED equivalents be more robust/last longer?

very much so.

I prefer brighter light these days - can LEDs produce decent white
light?

yes. Get the CCT you want - filament lamps are typically 2700K warm white, halogens 3000K, cool white or daylight are much colder/bluer.


NT

On 14/04/2019 14:57, TheChief wrote:
Hi all

I have a light fitting in the hall which I am quite happy with.
The down side is that bulbs keep failing.
It takes push in G9 clear 40w bulbs which are housed in frosted
glass "shades" 38mm inside dia.

The questions a

Would LED equivalents be more robust/last longer?
I prefer brighter light these days - can LEDs produce decent white
light?
Which suppliers are recommended for quality?


We've some similar fittings- 5 I think- each takes 2 x 40W G9 Quartz
bulbs.

I've tried several LED bulbs which, supposedly, have the same output
(lumens) and found them totally unsatisfactory. Price doesn't seem to
make a difference.

Now, I've just stocked up on G9 bulbs.

Our fittings are large enough that I could strip out the holders and fit
another type, which I have considered. (We like the fittings.)



--
Always smile when walking, you never know where there is a camera ;-)

Remarkable Coincidences:
The Stock Market Crashes of 1929 and 2008 happened on the same
date in October. In Oct 1907, a run on the Knickerbocker Trust
Company led to the Great Depression.

TheChief wrote:

It takes push in G9 clear 40w bulbs
Would LED equivalents be more robust/last longer?

G9 LEDs are rather small so tend to suffer from overheating.

I would investigate the cause of the premature bulb failure first, loose connections possibly in the lamp or the wall switch can cause filament bulbs to fail early.

Richard

Andy Burns Wrote in message:
TheChief wrote:

It takes push in G9 clear 40w bulbs
Would LED equivalents be more robust/last longer?

G9 LEDs are rather small so tend to suffer from overheating.


Thanks Andy

The "shades" for these will be a tight fit on LED bulbs given
their increased size compared to current non-LED
equivalent.

Guess I'll just keep replacing bulbs till I get bored of fitting.

Phil

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Brian Reay Wrote in message:
On 14/04/2019 14:57, TheChief wrote:
Hi all

I have a light fitting in the hall which I am quite happy with.
The down side is that bulbs keep failing.
It takes push in G9 clear 40w bulbs which are housed in frosted
glass "shades" 38mm inside dia.

The questions a

Would LED equivalents be more robust/last longer?
I prefer brighter light these days - can LEDs produce decent white
light?
Which suppliers are recommended for quality?


We've some similar fittings- 5 I think- each takes 2 x 40W G9 Quartz
bulbs.

I've tried several LED bulbs which, supposedly, have the same output
(lumens) and found them totally unsatisfactory. Price doesn't seem to
make a difference.

Now, I've just stocked up on G9 bulbs.

Our fittings are large enough that I could strip out the holders and fit
another type, which I have considered. (We like the fittings.)



--
Always smile when walking, you never know where there is a camera ;-)

Remarkable Coincidences:
The Stock Market Crashes of 1929 and 2008 happened on the same
date in October. In Oct 1907, a run on the Knickerbocker Trust
Company led to the Great Depression.


Thanks Brian

Think I'll stick with non-LEDs then

Phil
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Wrote in message:
On Sunday, 14 April 2019 14:57:07 UTC+1, TheChief wrote:

Hi all

I have a light fitting in the hall which I am quite happy with.
The down side is that bulbs keep failing.
It takes push in G9 clear 40w bulbs which are housed in frosted
glass "shades" 38mm inside dia.

The questions a

Would LED equivalents be more robust/last longer?

very much so.

I prefer brighter light these days - can LEDs produce decent white
light?

yes. Get the CCT you want - filament lamps are typically 2700K warm white, halogens 3000K, cool white or daylight are much colder/bluer.


NT


Thanks NT

But it looks like the increase in size moving to LED would have
the bulbs sticking out of the shades.
Think I'll stick with non-LED till I change the fitting.

Phil
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On 14/04/2019 14:57, TheChief wrote:
Hi all

I have a light fitting in the hall which I am quite happy with.
The down side is that bulbs keep failing.

Are you touching the lamps with your fingers when you fit them?


--
Adam

In article ,
Brian Reay wrote:
On 14/04/2019 14:57, TheChief wrote:
Hi all

I have a light fitting in the hall which I am quite happy with.
The down side is that bulbs keep failing.
It takes push in G9 clear 40w bulbs which are housed in frosted
glass "shades" 38mm inside dia.

The questions a

Would LED equivalents be more robust/last longer?
I prefer brighter light these days - can LEDs produce decent white
light?
Which suppliers are recommended for quality?


We've some similar fittings- 5 I think- each takes 2 x 40W G9 Quartz
bulbs.

I've tried several LED bulbs which, supposedly, have the same output
(lumens) and found them totally unsatisfactory. Price doesn't seem to
make a difference.

Quite. LED quoted light outputs seem to be measured with a different meter
to halogen.

Now, I've just stocked up on G9 bulbs.

Our fittings are large enough that I could strip out the holders and fit
another type, which I have considered. (We like the fittings.)

--
*Remember: First you pillage, then you burn.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 14/04/19 14:57, TheChief wrote:
Hi all

I have a light fitting in the hall which I am quite happy with.
The down side is that bulbs keep failing.
It takes push in G9 clear 40w bulbs which are housed in frosted
glass "shades" 38mm inside dia.

The questions a

Would LED equivalents be more robust/last longer?
I prefer brighter light these days - can LEDs produce decent white
light?
Which suppliers are recommended for quality?

Thanks

Phil

G9 leds are inherently not as bright a G9 halogens (yet?). They might
quote a high lumen output on the pack, but IME they have often only half
the brightness of a halogen, You won't get anywhere near the light
output of a 40W halogen, even with a 6W led: - 630 lumens vs 330 (- 700*
see below) lumens.
https://www.lightbulbworld.co.uk/sylvania-g9-halogen-capsule-42w-6538-p.asp
https://bestrobotsguide.com/best-g9-led-bulbs
*good luck with the 700 lumen output led (8W!)
https://bestrobotsguide.com/best-g9-led-bulbs#bogao!

Depending on the design of your shade, they are liable to suffer from
overheating. If the shade points down, or partially down, and there is
no ventilation hole at the base, heat will build up around the base of
the led G9 where the electronics are. Heat and electronics in a G9 do
not go together well.

A couple of years ago I replaced 12 G9 halogens (42W) with supposedly
brighter 4W leds. They were nowhere near as bright. And a couple have
already gone south.

--

Jeff

On Sunday, 14 April 2019 15:41:27 UTC+1, TheChief wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Sunday, 14 April 2019 14:57:07 UTC+1, TheChief wrote:

Hi all

I have a light fitting in the hall which I am quite happy with.
The down side is that bulbs keep failing.
It takes push in G9 clear 40w bulbs which are housed in frosted
glass "shades" 38mm inside dia.

The questions a

Would LED equivalents be more robust/last longer?

very much so.

I prefer brighter light these days - can LEDs produce decent white
light?

yes. Get the CCT you want - filament lamps are typically 2700K warm white, halogens 3000K, cool white or daylight are much colder/bluer.


NT


Thanks NT

But it looks like the increase in size moving to LED would have
the bulbs sticking out of the shades.
Think I'll stick with non-LED till I change the fitting.

Phil

Running them slightly lower voltage can really help with lamp life. Either a dimmer or a series capacitor or choke to knock just 10v rms off can help. Ultimately though you've got a problem light fitting, low power mains halogens never lasted well, and close fitting shades make alternatives hard to use. Reduced light level can normally be made up from other fittings.


NT

On 14/04/2019 16:11, wrote:
On Sunday, 14 April 2019 15:41:27 UTC+1, TheChief wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:
On Sunday, 14 April 2019 14:57:07 UTC+1, TheChief wrote:

Hi all

I have a light fitting in the hall which I am quite happy with.
The down side is that bulbs keep failing.
It takes push in G9 clear 40w bulbs which are housed in frosted
glass "shades" 38mm inside dia.

The questions a

Would LED equivalents be more robust/last longer?

very much so.

I prefer brighter light these days - can LEDs produce decent white
light?

yes. Get the CCT you want - filament lamps are typically 2700K warm white, halogens 3000K, cool white or daylight are much colder/bluer.


NT


Thanks NT

But it looks like the increase in size moving to LED would have
the bulbs sticking out of the shades.
Think I'll stick with non-LED till I change the fitting.

Phil

Running them slightly lower voltage can really help with lamp life. Either a dimmer or a series capacitor or choke to knock just 10v rms off can help.

Got a wiring diagram for that?


--
Adam

ARW Wrote in message:
On 14/04/2019 14:57, TheChief wrote:
Hi all

I have a light fitting in the hall which I am quite happy with.
The down side is that bulbs keep failing.

Are you touching the lamps with your fingers when you fit them?


--
Adam


Hi Adam
No I am aware of the need to keep skin oils or whatever off the glass.

Phil
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Jeff Layman Wrote in message:
On 14/04/19 14:57, TheChief wrote:
Hi all

I have a light fitting in the hall which I am quite happy with.
The down side is that bulbs keep failing.
It takes push in G9 clear 40w bulbs which are housed in frosted
glass "shades" 38mm inside dia.

The questions a

Would LED equivalents be more robust/last longer?
I prefer brighter light these days - can LEDs produce decent white
light?
Which suppliers are recommended for quality?

Thanks

Phil

G9 leds are inherently not as bright a G9 halogens (yet?). They might
quote a high lumen output on the pack, but IME they have often only half
the brightness of a halogen, You won't get anywhere near the light
output of a 40W halogen, even with a 6W led: - 630 lumens vs 330 (- 700*
see below) lumens.
https://www.lightbulbworld.co.uk/sylvania-g9-halogen-capsule-42w-6538-p.asp
https://bestrobotsguide.com/best-g9-led-bulbs
*good luck with the 700 lumen output led (8W!)
https://bestrobotsguide.com/best-g9-led-bulbs#bogao!

Depending on the design of your shade, they are liable to suffer from
overheating. If the shade points down, or partially down, and there is
no ventilation hole at the base, heat will build up around the base of
the led G9 where the electronics are. Heat and electronics in a G9 do
not go together well.

A couple of years ago I replaced 12 G9 halogens (42W) with supposedly
brighter 4W leds. They were nowhere near as bright. And a couple have
already gone south.

--

Jeff


Thanks Jeff

I suspect you are right about the heat issue.
Although the fitting is as-supplied, the glass shades are
horizontal 38mm I/dia
around 50mm long.
Also, being in the hall they have foot traffic regularly above.
So maybe vibration also plays a part.

Phil
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On Sunday, 14 April 2019 19:27:29 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
On 14/04/2019 16:11, tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 14 April 2019 15:41:27 UTC+1, TheChief wrote:
tabbypurr Wrote in message:

Think I'll stick with non-LED till I change the fitting.

Running them slightly lower voltage can really help with lamp life. Either a dimmer or a series capacitor or choke to knock just 10v rms off can help.

Got a wiring diagram for that?

The choke or capacitor just goes in series with the feed to the fitting. Values need to be calculated for each total lighting wattage.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Droppers


NT

On Sunday, 14 April 2019 19:46:03 UTC+1, TheChief wrote:

Thanks Jeff

I suspect you are right about the heat issue.
Although the fitting is as-supplied, the glass shades are
horizontal 38mm I/dia
around 50mm long.
Also, being in the hall they have foot traffic regularly above.
So maybe vibration also plays a part.

Phil

The hotter the filament is, the weaker it is, so reducing voltage slightly can help resist vibration to a [to me] unknown extent.


NT

In article ,
ARW wrote:
Running them slightly lower voltage can really help with lamp life. Either a dimmer or a series capacitor or choke to knock just 10v rms off can help.

Got a wiring diagram for that?

other way is a series diode.

--
*WHOSE CRUEL IDEA WAS IT FOR THE WORD 'LISP' TO HAVE 'S' IN IT?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 14/04/19 23:21, wrote:
On Sunday, 14 April 2019 19:46:03 UTC+1, TheChief wrote:

Thanks Jeff

I suspect you are right about the heat issue.
Although the fitting is as-supplied, the glass shades are
horizontal 38mm I/dia
around 50mm long.
Also, being in the hall they have foot traffic regularly above.
So maybe vibration also plays a part.

Phil

The hotter the filament is, the weaker it is, so reducing voltage slightly can help resist vibration to a [to me] unknown extent.

Weren't filament bulbs in trains and buses underrun to help prolong
their life? Also, I think that the term "robust" for their construction
is hardly sufficient for the bulbs used in Tube trains - the movement
and vibration in the carriages was quite remarkable at times.

--

Jeff

On 14/04/2019 23:21, wrote:
On Sunday, 14 April 2019 19:46:03 UTC+1, TheChief wrote:

Thanks Jeff

I suspect you are right about the heat issue.
Although the fitting is as-supplied, the glass shades are
horizontal 38mm I/dia
around 50mm long.
Also, being in the hall they have foot traffic regularly above.
So maybe vibration also plays a part.

Phil

The hotter the filament is, the weaker it is, so reducing voltage slightly can help resist vibration to a [to me] unknown extent.


NT


But also reduces the temp of the quartz envelope so the halides have
less effect and cause blackening of the bulb.

In article ,
dennis@home wrote:
The hotter the filament is, the weaker it is, so reducing voltage slightly can help resist vibration to a [to me] unknown extent.


NT


But also reduces the temp of the quartz envelope so the halides have
less effect and cause blackening of the bulb.

I've often read this. But have loads of halogens here fed with dimmers.
And never seen it.

In TV studios when colour arrived, halogens were the standard type of
light. And the base setting was well below full. If they had blackened,
the cameras would have seen it easily. As they are very sensitive to
colour temperture.

--
*DON'T SWEAT THE PETTY THINGS AND DON'T PET THE SWEATY THINGS.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Monday, 15 April 2019 09:35:07 UTC+1, dennis@home wrote:
On 14/04/2019 23:21, tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 14 April 2019 19:46:03 UTC+1, TheChief wrote:

Thanks Jeff

I suspect you are right about the heat issue.
Although the fitting is as-supplied, the glass shades are
horizontal 38mm I/dia
around 50mm long.
Also, being in the hall they have foot traffic regularly above.
So maybe vibration also plays a part.

Phil

The hotter the filament is, the weaker it is, so reducing voltage slightly can help resist vibration to a [to me] unknown extent.


NT


But also reduces the temp of the quartz envelope so the halides have
less effect and cause blackening of the bulb.

You have to knock more than 10v off to get that happen.

On Monday, 15 April 2019 13:24:46 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
ARW wrote:

Running them slightly lower voltage can really help with lamp life. Either a dimmer or a series capacitor or choke to knock just 10v rms off can help.

Got a wiring diagram for that?

other way is a series diode.

No that nearly halves power consumption. You'd lose the halogen cycle & most of the light output.


NT