On my main glasses (standard wire rim type) the "rivetting" of one of
the lens screws is inadequate so that it works itself completely free in
a week, although the screw remains captive. It's not a very favourable
geometry for applying a thread lock compound. I wondered whether
something like clear nail varnish over the head might work. Or
supergluing the lens rim to the wire rim near the junction, to reduce
the spreading force? Or should I try centre-punching the screw? There is
a fairly good dimple in the end.

I have a "repair kit" with lots of screws, selflok nuts, etc which I
would use if I had lost the screw but since it is (so far) reliably
captive I am slightly reluctant to remove it.

On 30/03/2019 13:43, newshound wrote:
On my main glasses (standard wire rim type) the "rivetting" of one of
the lens screws is inadequate so that it works itself completely free in
a week, although the screw remains captive. It's not a very favourable
geometry for applying a thread lock compound. I wondered whether

The solution I have used on my titanium glasses frame with a snapped off
screw still embedded in it is a small loop of thin copper wire making a
spiral binding to hold the frame in the locked position. It fails every
three or four years or when I sit on them - which is how the screw
snapped in the first place. The titanium frames jump back into shape OK.

something like clear nail varnish over the head might work. Or
supergluing the lens rim to the wire rim near the junction, to reduce
the spreading force? Or should I try centre-punching the screw? There is
a fairly good dimple in the end.

Definitely not superglue - it will mist optical surfaces in a most
annoying way. Another of its uses is developing fingerprints as the
monomer vapour is airborne and condenses out on anything at all.

I have a "repair kit" with lots of screws, selflok nuts, etc which I
would use if I had lost the screw but since it is (so far) reliably
captive I am slightly reluctant to remove it.

If you have the original screw why isn't it behaving itself?
A spec of locktite before tighenting it would be my suggestion.
Using a cocktail stick or needle to get the stuff in the right place.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 30/03/2019 14:10, Pamela wrote:
On 13:52 30 Mar 2019, Martin Brown wrote:

On 30/03/2019 13:43, newshound wrote:
On my main glasses (standard wire rim type) the "rivetting" of one of
the lens screws is inadequate so that it works itself completely free in
a week, although the screw remains captive. It's not a very favourable
geometry for applying a thread lock compound. I wondered whether

The solution I have used on my titanium glasses frame with a snapped off
screw still embedded in it is a small loop of thin copper wire making a
spiral binding to hold the frame in the locked position. It fails every
three or four years or when I sit on them - which is how the screw
snapped in the first place. The titanium frames jump back into shape OK.

something like clear nail varnish over the head might work. Or
supergluing the lens rim to the wire rim near the junction, to reduce
the spreading force? Or should I try centre-punching the screw? There is
a fairly good dimple in the end.

Definitely not superglue - it will mist optical surfaces in a most
annoying way. Another of its uses is developing fingerprints as the
monomer vapour is airborne and condenses out on anything at all.

I have a "repair kit" with lots of screws, selflok nuts, etc which I
would use if I had lost the screw but since it is (so far) reliably
captive I am slightly reluctant to remove it.

If you have the original screw why isn't it behaving itself?
A spec of locktite before tighenting it would be my suggestion.
Using a cocktail stick or needle to get the stuff in the right place.

Just adding that the manufacturer's technical helpline advise that Loctite
222 is the right one for specs.

Not forgetting that a set of assorted specs screws, which may contain one
that's a better fit, can be had for well under a tenner.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Glasses-Ass...dp/B06XBG8KXR/

I know it's not DIY, but opticians are usually quite helpful in this
regard, and usually don't charge you anything.

--
Max Demian

On 30/03/2019 14:10, Pamela wrote:
On 13:52 30 Mar 2019, Martin Brown wrote:

On 30/03/2019 13:43, newshound wrote:
On my main glasses (standard wire rim type) the "rivetting" of one of
the lens screws is inadequate so that it works itself completely free in
a week, although the screw remains captive. It's not a very favourable
geometry for applying a thread lock compound. I wondered whether

The solution I have used on my titanium glasses frame with a snapped off
screw still embedded in it is a small loop of thin copper wire making a
spiral binding to hold the frame in the locked position. It fails every
three or four years or when I sit on them - which is how the screw
snapped in the first place. The titanium frames jump back into shape OK.

something like clear nail varnish over the head might work. Or
supergluing the lens rim to the wire rim near the junction, to reduce
the spreading force? Or should I try centre-punching the screw? There is
a fairly good dimple in the end.

Definitely not superglue - it will mist optical surfaces in a most
annoying way. Another of its uses is developing fingerprints as the
monomer vapour is airborne and condenses out on anything at all.

I have a "repair kit" with lots of screws, selflok nuts, etc which I
would use if I had lost the screw but since it is (so far) reliably
captive I am slightly reluctant to remove it.

If you have the original screw why isn't it behaving itself?
A spec of locktite before tighenting it would be my suggestion.
Using a cocktail stick or needle to get the stuff in the right place.

Just adding that the manufacturer's technical helpline advise that Loctite
222 is the right one for specs.

Not forgetting that a set of assorted specs screws, which may contain one
that's a better fit, can be had for well under a tenner.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Glasses-Ass...dp/B06XBG8KXR/


Yes I have a kit a bit like that, but the existing screw is captive in
the "head-end" bit and I am slightly reluctant to force it out. The
reason it can get unscrewed is that the "dimple" in the thread end has
not deformed it sufficiently to prevent it unscrewing.

On 30/03/2019 13:52, Martin Brown wrote:
On 30/03/2019 13:43, newshound wrote:
On my main glasses (standard wire rim type) the "rivetting" of one of
the lens screws is inadequate so that it works itself completely free
in a week, although the screw remains captive. It's not a very
favourable geometry for applying a thread lock compound. I wondered
whether

The solution I have used on my titanium glasses frame with a snapped off
screw still embedded in it is a small loop of thin copper wire making a
spiral binding to hold the frame in the locked position. It fails every
three or four years or when I sit on them - which is how the screw
snapped in the first place. The titanium frames jump back into shape OK.

Yes I did my first repair like that (using paper clip wire) when I
didn't have a suitable screwdriver to hand.


something like clear nail varnish over the head might work. Or
supergluing the lens rim to the wire rim near the junction, to reduce
the spreading force? Or should I try centre-punching the screw? There
is a fairly good dimple in the end.

Definitely not superglue - it will mist optical surfaces in a most
annoying way. Another of its uses is developing fingerprints as the
monomer vapour is airborne and condenses out on anything at all.

Excellent point


I have a "repair kit" with lots of screws, selflok nuts, etc which I
would use if I had lost the screw but since it is (so far) reliably
captive I am slightly reluctant to remove it.

If you have the original screw why isn't it behaving itself?

It's supposed to be retained by a dimple in the free end, presumably
from a customised "press". I could perhaps make it deeper with a centre
punch, since it provides a location.

A spec of locktite before tighenting it would be my suggestion.
Using a cocktail stick or needle to get the stuff in the right place.

A bit fiddly to clean and degrease the female screw thread. Also, the
only thread lock compound I have to hand is relatively viscous.

Interesting to see that Loctite 222 is recommended, so this is "glass
friendly" then.

"newshound" wrote in message
o.uk...
On my main glasses (standard wire rim type) the "rivetting" of one of the
lens screws is inadequate so that it works itself completely free in a
week, although the screw remains captive. It's not a very favourable
geometry for applying a thread lock compound. I wondered whether something
like clear nail varnish over the head might work. Or supergluing the lens
rim to the wire rim near the junction, to reduce the spreading force?

That did work for my prescription sunnys, but with with those
the problem wasnt the screw unscrewing, it was that the lens
wasnt ground well enough on the edge to slot into the wire
rim properly;

Problem with superglue is that you have to be VERY
careful when using it on glasses, any on the lens itself
makes it unusable.

Or should I try centre-punching the screw? There is a fairly good dimple
in the end.

I have had some wire rim glasses where that had been done.

I have a "repair kit" with lots of screws, selflok nuts, etc which I would
use if I had lost the screw but since it is (so far) reliably captive I am
slightly reluctant to remove it.

Yeah, I would be too. They are a real bugger to handle, too small to grip.

I lost one in the wire rim glasses I wear all the time and got a set of
screws from aliexpress but couldnt actually use them, had to order
some tweezers and havent got around to trying again with the tweezers.

I've got some wire were the screw goes, but mine are obviously not captive
screws.
The frames and lenses are from Zenni in china.

On Mon, 1 Apr 2019 07:50:25 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rot Speed,
the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


That did work for my prescription sunnys, but with with those
the problem wasn¢t the screw unscrewing, it was that the lens
wasn¢t ground well enough on the edge to slot into the wire
rim properly;

Problem with superglue is that you have to be VERY
careful when using it on glasses, any on the lens itself
makes it unusable.

Someone answered that already, senile Rot! Just what in hell makes you
believe an answer is only valid when you confirm it? Your senility?

--
Sqwertz to Rot Speed:
"This is just a hunch, but I'm betting you're kinda an argumentative
asshole.
MID:

On 30/03/2019 19:54, newshound wrote:
On 30/03/2019 13:52, Martin Brown wrote:

A spec of locktite before tighenting it would be my suggestion.
Using a cocktail stick or needle to get the stuff in the right place.

A bit fiddly to clean and degrease the female screw thread. Also, the
only thread lock compound I have to hand is relatively viscous.

Interesting to see that Loctite 222 is recommended, so this is "glass
friendly" then.

Locktite only activates on exposure to oxygen followed by the high
pressure encountered in a tightened bolt.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

Martin Brown wrote:

On 30/03/2019 19:54, newshound wrote:
On 30/03/2019 13:52, Martin Brown wrote:

A spec of locktite before tighenting it would be my suggestion.
Using a cocktail stick or needle to get the stuff in the right place.

A bit fiddly to clean and degrease the female screw thread. Also, the
only thread lock compound I have to hand is relatively viscous.

Interesting to see that Loctite 222 is recommended, so this is "glass
friendly" then.

Locktite only activates on exposure to oxygen followed by the high
pressure encountered in a tightened bolt.

There may be different kinds of Loctite, but my impression was that
classically it reacted to the exclusion of oxygen, and was kept in a
tube/bottle with an air bubble until used.

--

Roger Hayter

On 01/04/2019 21:29, Roger Hayter wrote:
Martin Brown wrote:

On 30/03/2019 19:54, newshound wrote:
On 30/03/2019 13:52, Martin Brown wrote:

A spec of locktite before tighenting it would be my suggestion.
Using a cocktail stick or needle to get the stuff in the right place.

A bit fiddly to clean and degrease the female screw thread. Also, the
only thread lock compound I have to hand is relatively viscous.

Interesting to see that Loctite 222 is recommended, so this is "glass
friendly" then.

Locktite only activates on exposure to oxygen followed by the high
pressure encountered in a tightened bolt.

There may be different kinds of Loctite, but my impression was that
classically it reacted to the exclusion of oxygen, and was kept in a
tube/bottle with an air bubble until used.


Correct.
It 'sets' when there is no oxygen. ie. you put it on the thread, tighten
it up, it locks.