Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jac Brown wrote:
Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.



I would bother with a screw extractor. Id just drill out the middle and
then the whole thing should just pull out.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

"Tim+" wrote in message
...
Jac Brown wrote:
Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

I would bother with a screw extractor. Id just drill out the middle and
then the whole thing should just pull out.

Yeah, thanks for that, thats what I meant about brain farts.

Jac Brown wrote:
Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

I remove the brass plugs in padlocks (similar dia as pins in locks)with
a small commercially available easyout,but any time I have trouble I
make my own easy out by grinding a square taper on silver steel or file
tang or busted drill shank and hardening and tempering and tapping it
into a hole drilled in the screw and then turning

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

"FMurtz" wrote in message
...
Jac Brown wrote:
Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

I remove the brass plugs in padlocks (similar dia as pins in locks)with a
small commercially available easyout,but any time I have trouble I make my
own easy out by grinding a square taper on silver steel or file tang or
busted drill shank and hardening and tempering and tapping it into a hole
drilled in the screw and then turning

Yeah, good point.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Yes and then the shank would be a lot easier to extract from that half of
the case.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Tim+" wrote in message
...
Jac Brown wrote:
Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.



I would bother with a screw extractor. I'd just drill out the middle and
then the whole thing should just pull out.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On Thu, 28 Mar 2019 16:50:15 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:

Got one of these

Now that you got a firm foot in ahr (after some initial problems), will you
slowly pull out of uk.d-i-y, you ****ed up 85-year-old senile Ozzie troll?
Or will you troll in BOTH now as if there was no tomorrow? LMAO

--
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp addressing Rot Speed:
"You really are a clueless pillock."
MID:

On Thu, 28 Mar 2019 19:28:39 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:


I would bother with a screw extractor. I¢d just drill out the middle and
then the whole thing should just pull out.

Yeah, thanks for that, that¢s what I meant about brain farts.

I believe he's talking about getting that damaged screw in your head out,
senile Rot. I, too, would just drill a hole in the middle!

--
Bill Wright to Rot Speed:
"That confirms my opinion that you are a despicable little ****."
MID:

On 28/03/2019 07:17, Tim+ wrote:
Jac Brown wrote:
Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

I have used this sort of thing with success (this is the first link I
found on Amazon - you can probably get them cheaper)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07D349G...i-a=B07D349GZ2

They are a bit different to the standard eazyout in that you don't have
to drill a hole, they just bite into whatever is left of the
phillips/posidrive/crosspoint recess



The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.



I would bother with a screw extractor. Id just drill out the middle and
then the whole thing should just pull out.

Tim



--
Chris B (News)

On Thu, 28 Mar 2019 20:41:10 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:

I remove the brass plugs in padlocks (similar dia as pins in locks)with a
small commercially available easyout,but any time I have trouble I make my
own easy out by grinding a square taper on silver steel or file tang or
busted drill shank and hardening and tempering and tapping it into a hole
drilled in the screw and then turning

Yeah, good point.

So, why don't you two Ozzie assholes spread your "wisdom" in some Ozzie ngs?
Let me guess, they don't like BOTH of you either! BG

--
Bod addressing abnormal senile quarreller Rot:
"Do you practice arguing with yourself in an empty room?"
MID:

On 3/28/2019 12:50 AM, Jac Brown wrote:
Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about
wrecking the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Â* It's plastic , it'll melt . Warm up a straight bit screwdriver just
enough to melt into the head , form a slot that way . Chill the driver
blade with an ice cube while in the new slot , turn it out . Or drill
the size of the screw shank and go buy a new clip from your local auto
parts house . It ain't worth a big investment in tools for a 39 cent
plastic clip .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

On 03/27/2019 11:50 PM, Jac Brown wrote:
My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-micro

I've never used one on plastic or the micro sizes but I've had excellent
results with standard machine screws. One end creates something like a
countersink in the damaged screw head. Then you reverse the bit and it
grabs. You do need a reversible drill motor.

It's a lot easier than drilling a pilot hole for a standard screw
extractor. They're the cat's nuts for deck screws no matter what drive
type. I've used them on damaged Torx fasteners on the bike too.

I was skeptical when I saw a set in the hardware store but I became a
true believer. Worse case you stall the drill motor or break off the
screw because they don't let go. It also avoids the trip to an EDM shop
when you break off the hardened extractor and are really screwed so to
speak.

On 03/28/2019 04:31 AM, Chris B wrote:
I have used this sort of thing with success (this is the first link I
found on Amazon - you can probably get them cheaper)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07D349G...i-a=B07D349GZ2


They are a bit different to the standard eazyout in that you don't have
to drill a hole, they just bite into whatever is left of the
phillips/posidrive/crosspoint recess

In the states GrabIt extractors are about the same thing. I don't know
which way Australia goes or if they have their own version.

On 3/28/2019 8:48 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 03/27/2019 11:50 PM, Jac Brown wrote:
My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-micro

I've never used one on plastic or the micro sizes but I've had
excellent results with standard machine screws. One end creates
something like a countersink in the damaged screw head. Then you
reverse the bit and it grabs. You do need a reversible drill motor.

It's a lot easier than drilling a pilot hole for a standard screw
extractor. They're the cat's nuts for deck screws no matter what drive
type. I've used them on damaged Torx fasteners on the bike too.

I was skeptical when I saw a set in the hardware store but I became a
true believer. Worse case you stall the drill motor or break off the
screw because they don't let go. It also avoids the trip to an EDM
shop when you break off the hardened extractor and are really screwed
so to speak.

* I read somewhere that alum will dissolve steel ... yup , just checked
it out , dissolves steel but doesn't affect aluminum .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 3/28/2019 8:48 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 03/27/2019 11:50 PM, Jac Brown wrote:
My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-micro

I've never used one on plastic or the micro sizes but I've had excellent
results with standard machine screws. One end creates something like a
countersink in the damaged screw head. Then you reverse the bit and it
grabs. You do need a reversible drill motor.

It's a lot easier than drilling a pilot hole for a standard screw
extractor. They're the cat's nuts for deck screws no matter what drive
type. I've used them on damaged Torx fasteners on the bike too.

I was skeptical when I saw a set in the hardware store but I became a
true believer. Worse case you stall the drill motor or break off the
screw because they don't let go. It also avoids the trip to an EDM shop
when you break off the hardened extractor and are really screwed so to
speak.

I read somewhere that alum will dissolve steel ... yup , just checked it
out , dissolves steel but doesn't affect aluminum .

Problem is that its head down in the car so not easy to dissolve
the broken extractor, the I spose it is unlikely to break with a
plastic screw. And the part the screw goes into is sheet metal
and just a small tab, not a hole is a metal plate.

Might be safer to just drill the plastic screw out I spose.

On 3/28/2019 9:41 PM, Jac Brown wrote:


"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 3/28/2019 8:48 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 03/27/2019 11:50 PM, Jac Brown wrote:
My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-micro

I've never used one on plastic or the micro sizes but I've had
excellent results with standard machine screws. One end creates
something like a countersink in the damaged screw head. Then you
reverse the bit and it grabs. You do need a reversible drill motor.

It's a lot easier than drilling a pilot hole for a standard screw
extractor. They're the cat's nuts for deck screws no matter what
drive type. I've used them on damaged Torx fasteners on the bike too.

I was skeptical when I saw a set in the hardware store but I became
a true believer. Worse case you stall the drill motor or break off
the screw because they don't let go. It also avoids the trip to an
EDM shop when you break off the hardened extractor and are really
screwed so to speak.

* I read somewhere that alum will dissolve steel ... yup , just
checked it out , dissolves steel but doesn't affect aluminum .

Problem is that its head down in the car so not easy to dissolve
the broken extractor, the I spose it is unlikely to break with a
plastic screw. And the part the screw goes into is sheet metal
and just a small tab, not a hole is a metal plate.

Might be safer to just drill the plastic screw out I spose.

* Or do as I suggested and use a heated screwdriver to form a slot .
That last post of mine was aimed more specifically at rbowman , as steel
screws are often broken off in aluminum parts on motorcycles . Not that
I know anything about motorcycles , I only have 4 right now . But then
Harleys vibrate so much that corrosion doesn't have a chance to form .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 3/28/2019 9:41 PM, Jac Brown wrote:


"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 3/28/2019 8:48 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 03/27/2019 11:50 PM, Jac Brown wrote:
My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-micro

I've never used one on plastic or the micro sizes but I've had
excellent results with standard machine screws. One end creates
something like a countersink in the damaged screw head. Then you
reverse the bit and it grabs. You do need a reversible drill motor.

It's a lot easier than drilling a pilot hole for a standard screw
extractor. They're the cat's nuts for deck screws no matter what drive
type. I've used them on damaged Torx fasteners on the bike too.

I was skeptical when I saw a set in the hardware store but I became a
true believer. Worse case you stall the drill motor or break off the
screw because they don't let go. It also avoids the trip to an EDM shop
when you break off the hardened extractor and are really screwed so to
speak.

I read somewhere that alum will dissolve steel ... yup , just checked
it out , dissolves steel but doesn't affect aluminum .

Problem is that its head down in the car so not easy to dissolve
the broken extractor, the I spose it is unlikely to break with a
plastic screw. And the part the screw goes into is sheet metal
and just a small tab, not a hole is a metal plate.

Might be safer to just drill the plastic screw out I spose.

Or do as I suggested and use a heated screwdriver to form a slot .

Yeah, havent tried that but if it really is nylon as Clare proclaimed,
its unlikely to end up with much of a slot that way. It is pretty hard
plastic. I tried with the sharp end of a small rat tail file to see if I
could poke the metal into the plastic as FMurtz suggested but
I didn’t try heating it. I've paused for the moment waiting for an
extractor to show up and because I need to use the car
tomorrow and I have some beer brews to bottle today.

That last post of mine was aimed more specifically at rbowman , as steel
screws are often broken off in aluminum parts on motorcycles .

OK.

Not that I know anything about motorcycles , I only have 4 right now . But
then Harleys vibrate so much that corrosion doesn't have a chance to form
.

On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 13:41:09 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:


Problem is that its head

The one big problem is your sick senile head, senile ****head!

--
Bod addressing abnormal senile quarreller Rot:
"Do you practice arguing with yourself in an empty room?"
MID:

On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 15:08:09 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:


OK.

???????? Are you sick, or what, senile Rot? LOL

--
Kerr-Mudd,John addressing senile Rot:
"Auto-contradictor Rod is back! (in the KF)"
MID:

On 28/03/2019 07:17, Tim+ wrote:


I would bother with a screw extractor. Id just drill out the middle and
then the whole thing should just pull out.



Or heat up the end of the screwdriver with a blow torch and melt it out.


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

"alan_m" wrote in message
...
On 28/03/2019 07:17, Tim+ wrote:


I would bother with a screw extractor. Id just drill out the middle and
then the whole thing should just pull out.



Or heat up the end of the screwdriver with a blow torch and melt it out.

Not convinced that that would work if it really is nylon.

On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 19:37:01 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:



Or heat up the end of the screwdriver with a blow torch and melt it out.

Not convinced that that would work if it really is nylon.

Solution: Just imagine someone ELSE would have started your thread and asked
your question ...you would INSTANTLY have ALL the answers!

Give it a try, senile Rot! It WILL work!

--
Bod addressing abnormal senile quarreller Rot:
"Do you practice arguing with yourself in an empty room?"
MID:

On 28/03/2019 05:50, Jac Brown wrote:
Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both.

Soldering iron if you want to muller the whole thing


--
To ban Christmas, simply give turkeys the vote.

On 29/03/2019 08:37, Jac Brown wrote:


"alan_m" wrote in message
...
On 28/03/2019 07:17, Tim+ wrote:


I would bother with a screw extractor. Id just drill out the middle and
then the whole thing should just pull out.



Or heat up the end of the screwdriver with a blow torch and melt it out.

Not convinced that that would work if it really is nylon.

nylon melts easily



--
To ban Christmas, simply give turkeys the vote.

On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 15:08:09 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 3/28/2019 9:41 PM, Jac Brown wrote:


"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 3/28/2019 8:48 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 03/27/2019 11:50 PM, Jac Brown wrote:
My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-micro

I've never used one on plastic or the micro sizes but I've had
excellent results with standard machine screws. One end creates
something like a countersink in the damaged screw head. Then you
reverse the bit and it grabs. You do need a reversible drill motor.

It's a lot easier than drilling a pilot hole for a standard screw
extractor. They're the cat's nuts for deck screws no matter what drive
type. I've used them on damaged Torx fasteners on the bike too.

I was skeptical when I saw a set in the hardware store but I became a
true believer. Worse case you stall the drill motor or break off the
screw because they don't let go. It also avoids the trip to an EDM shop
when you break off the hardened extractor and are really screwed so to
speak.

I read somewhere that alum will dissolve steel ... yup , just checked
it out , dissolves steel but doesn't affect aluminum .

Problem is that its head down in the car so not easy to dissolve
the broken extractor, the I spose it is unlikely to break with a
plastic screw. And the part the screw goes into is sheet metal
and just a small tab, not a hole is a metal plate.

Might be safer to just drill the plastic screw out I spose.

Or do as I suggested and use a heated screwdriver to form a slot .

Yeah, havent tried that but if it really is nylon as Clare proclaimed,
its unlikely to end up with much of a slot that way. It is pretty hard
plastic. I tried with the sharp end of a small rat tail file to see if I
could poke the metal into the plastic as FMurtz suggested but
I didn’t try heating it. I've paused for the moment waiting for an
extractor to show up and because I need to use the car
tomorrow and I have some beer brews to bottle today.

That last post of mine was aimed more specifically at rbowman , as steel
screws are often broken off in aluminum parts on motorcycles .

OK.

Not that I know anything about motorcycles , I only have 4 right now . But
then Harleys vibrate so much that corrosion doesn't have a chance to form
.

It isn't a screw but a push fit device - the "Phillips" head is to
allow the tooling to hold it while it is simply pushed in. It doesn't
screw in There is no thread, when the centre bit is pushed in it
causes the wings to spread and hold the mudguard lining to the
bodywork. What looks like a thread is actually a series concentric
rings to hold the fitting in place.

To get them out cut off the bit sticking up which has the cross head
shape with wire cutters and use a thin rod or nail to push the centre
core through the fitting, you can then usually lever the outer part
away. A dremel and cutting disk will also work as would drilling it
out. Most car parts shops stock them when you go looking for a
replacement.

Peter Parry wrote:

It isn't a screw but a push fit device

Suggest you zoom in further ...

On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 10:01:13 +0000, Andy Burns
wrote:

Peter Parry wrote:

It isn't a screw but a push fit device

Suggest you zoom in further ...

Try a Goggle image search for push fit wheel arch panel fastener for
hundreds of the things.
https://www.dhgate.com/product/121-a...214447682.html

Shows one, they are all push fit for speed of assembly.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
On 28/03/2019 05:50, Jac Brown wrote:
Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

Soldering iron if you want to muller the whole thing

Only have the weller and dont want to **** it up and its only a pointed tip
anyway.

Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the screw
or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.

--
Tekkie

On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 03:42:27 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:


Soldering iron if you want to muller the whole thing

Only have the weller and don¢t want to **** it up and its only a pointed tip
anyway.

You couldn't **** it up as you are ****ed up, you trolling senile Ozzie
pest!

--
Bod addressing abnormal senile quarreller Rot:
"Do you practice arguing with yourself in an empty room?"
MID:

"Tekkie®" wrote in message
...
Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the
screw

That wont work, its recessed.

or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.

That doesn't work either, again because its recessed.

Drilling it out should work when I charge up one the
cordless drills. The mains powered drills are all too long
with the car on the jack. I don't have access to a hoist.

On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 08:48:55 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:



That wont work

LOL

That doesn't work either

LOL

--
Sqwertz to Rot Speed:
"This is just a hunch, but I'm betting you're kinda an argumentative
asshole.
MID:

"Peter Parry" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 15:08:09 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 3/28/2019 9:41 PM, Jac Brown wrote:


"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 3/28/2019 8:48 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 03/27/2019 11:50 PM, Jac Brown wrote:
My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't
really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-micro

I've never used one on plastic or the micro sizes but I've had
excellent results with standard machine screws. One end creates
something like a countersink in the damaged screw head. Then you
reverse the bit and it grabs. You do need a reversible drill motor.

It's a lot easier than drilling a pilot hole for a standard screw
extractor. They're the cat's nuts for deck screws no matter what
drive
type. I've used them on damaged Torx fasteners on the bike too.

I was skeptical when I saw a set in the hardware store but I became a
true believer. Worse case you stall the drill motor or break off the
screw because they don't let go. It also avoids the trip to an EDM
shop
when you break off the hardened extractor and are really screwed so
to
speak.

I read somewhere that alum will dissolve steel ... yup , just
checked
it out , dissolves steel but doesn't affect aluminum .

Problem is that its head down in the car so not easy to dissolve
the broken extractor, the I spose it is unlikely to break with a
plastic screw. And the part the screw goes into is sheet metal
and just a small tab, not a hole is a metal plate.

Might be safer to just drill the plastic screw out I spose.

Or do as I suggested and use a heated screwdriver to form a slot .

Yeah, havent tried that but if it really is nylon as Clare proclaimed,
its unlikely to end up with much of a slot that way. It is pretty hard
plastic. I tried with the sharp end of a small rat tail file to see if I
could poke the metal into the plastic as FMurtz suggested but
I didn't try heating it. I've paused for the moment waiting for an
extractor to show up and because I need to use the car
tomorrow and I have some beer brews to bottle today.

That last post of mine was aimed more specifically at rbowman , as steel
screws are often broken off in aluminum parts on motorcycles .

OK.

Not that I know anything about motorcycles , I only have 4 right now .
But
then Harleys vibrate so much that corrosion doesn't have a chance to
form

It isn't a screw but a push fit device -

This one isnt.

the "Phillips" head is to allow the tooling
to hold it while it is simply pushed in. It
doesn't screw in There is no thread,

There is with this one.

when the centre bit is pushed in it causes the wings to
spread and hold the mudguard lining to the bodywork.

Yes, but that happens when its screwed in with this one.

What looks like a thread is actually a series
concentric rings to hold the fitting in place.

Not with this one. I can see it's a proper threaded
hole because the one I am having a problem with
is one of a pair and I can unscrew the screw from the
other one and see that the hole has a proper thread.

Likely because what the expanding bit goes into is
only a small metal tab on the edge of the bottom
of the front quarter body panel which doesn't have
enough strength to resist the 'screw' being forced
in and it isnt possible to use a jaw type thing to
force the 'screw' in due to the mechanical
arrangement. The cover panel I am getting off to
get access to the windscreen washer bottle means
that there is no way to have the inner of the jaw
there to squeeze against to force the 'screw' in.

So it is in fact screwed in, not forced in.

To get them out cut off the bit sticking up which
has the cross head shape with wire cutters

That isnt possible either because the screw
head is recessed into the thing it screw into.
With 20/20 hindsight I should have included
a photo of that.

and use a thin rod or nail to push
the centre core through the fitting,

That wont work either because it will just
bend the small metal tab that the thing
the screw screws into goes into a hole in.

you can then usually lever the outer part away.

Not in this case because that's also recessed.
It does come out fine with the other one
once the screw has been unscrewed.

A dremel and cutting disk will also work

No it wont because cutting the head off
doesn't allow you to get the screw out
and with the screw still in what it screws
into, that is still spreading the 4 tongs
that stop what the screw screws into from
coming out the hole in the metal tab.

as would drilling it out.

Yes, that would certainly work. I havent done
that yet because I don't have a mains powered
drill which is short enough with the drill in it
to put the drill tip into the wrecked philips
slot in the head. And all the batterys in the
battery drills are flat. So I gave up for the
moment because I needed to use the car
and I have 9 brews of beer to bottle.

Most car parts shops stock them
when you go looking for a replacement.

Yeah, ordered them from aliexpress already.
Claimed to be for Hyundai and look the same
so they should hopefully be threaded too.
No big deal if they arent, one missing will
be fine while I find threaded ones.

"Peter Parry" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 10:01:13 +0000, Andy Burns
wrote:

Peter Parry wrote:

It isn't a screw but a push fit device

Suggest you zoom in further ...

Try a Goggle image search for push fit wheel arch panel fastener for
hundreds of the things.
https://www.dhgate.com/product/121-a...214447682.html

Shows one, they are all push fit for speed of assembly.

This one isnt, because there is no way to get speed of assembly
where it is given that there is now way to get an inner jaw
in there to press against and the body tab hasn't got the
strength to shove against.

"Peter Parry" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 10:01:13 +0000, Andy Burns
wrote:

Peter Parry wrote:

It isn't a screw but a push fit device

Suggest you zoom in further ...

Try a Goggle image search for push fit wheel arch panel fastener for
hundreds of the things.
https://www.dhgate.com/product/121-a...214447682.html

That one is talking about push in for what the screw
screws into, its not saying that the screw pushes into
what it goes into.

Shows one, they are all push fit for speed of assembly.

But not push in for the screw, just what it screws into.

Peter Parry wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

Peter Parry wrote:

It isn't a screw but a push fit device

Suggest you zoom in further ...

they are all push fit for speed of assembly.

I agree in general they are push-fit, but that one is not.

On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 14:47:07 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:


This one isnt, because there is no way to get speed of assembly
where it is given that there is now way to get an inner jaw
in there to press against and the body tab hasn't got the
strength to shove against.

ROTFLOL In auto-contradicting mode again, you abnormal 85-year-old senile
pest?

--
pamela about Rot Speed:
"His off the cuff expertise demonstrates how little he knows..."
MID:

On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 14:49:33 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:

FLUSH the pathological senile cretin's latest troll****

--
Richard addressing Rot Speed:
"**** you're thick/pathetic excuse for a troll."
MID:

On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 14:10:19 +1100, Jac Brown, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:


Yes, but that happens when its screwed in with this one.

NOTHING could be as screwed as you are, senile Rot!

FLUSH all the rest of your usual senile drivel unread again

--
Bod addressing abnormal senile quarreller Rot:
"Do you practice arguing with yourself in an empty room?"
MID:

On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 08:48:55 +1100, "Jac Brown"
wrote:



"Tekkie®" wrote in message
...
Jac Brown posted for all of us...



Got one of these
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0mcpg949t9..._2208.JPG?dl=0
with a badly damaged philips screw head which I can't get out of here.
https://youtu.be/XlYNf101RJ0?t=56

The thing is entirely plastic in two parts. I don't care about wrecking
the
whole screw and what it goes into because I am happy to replace it.

I'd normally just grab the head with some mole grips etc but
cant get the screw unscrewed enough to get a grip on the head,
No easy access to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screw driver.
Guess it might be feasible with a dremel with a cutting disk. I have
both.

My initial thought was a screw extractor/easy out but the don't really
go small enough. The threaded part is only 5.5mm thick. The smallest
screw extractor is listed as 3mm which might well work with a hole
drilled into where the philips slots used to be.

The other possibility is to glue a plastic rod to the head but I don't
have a rod of the same plastic and there is no obvious way to work
out what the plastic is to order a rod of the same plastic and glue.
Is one particular type of plastic normally used on those things ?

I guess superglue and metal rod might work.

Any other alternative I might be having a brain fart about before
I order the smallest screw extractor ?

Not urgent, there is some problem with the windscreen washer
bottle that means it holds very little water but its fine to do
without a washer for a month or two while the extractor arrives.

Jam a small screwdriver or pick under the screw head while turning the
screw

That wont work, its recessed.

or do a reacharound and clip it off with a dyke.

That doesn't work either, again because its recessed.

Drilling it out should work when I charge up one the
cordless drills. The mains powered drills are all too long
with the car on the jack. I don't have access to a hoist.

As someone else said, it's not a screw. The whole thing was inserted
into the hole, then the top part pushed down to expand the bottom bits
bigger than the hole they went through.

If you try to turn the 'screw' it will just keep rotating without
allowing the bottom bits to contract.

As it's only plastic, I would try putting a screwdriver into it, then
giving the screwdriver a hearty whack with a hammer to break the head
of the 'screw'.
--
Dave W