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Default Float valve vibration

A couple of months ago we had a new boiler (regular) fitted. A couple of
weeks later my wife said there was a strange noise coming from the spare
bedroom en suite, which only occurred when I was using the basin in the
bathroom. I assumed it was something to to with the HW/CH pump. The next
time it happened I checked and was most surprised to find it was the
mains cold water pipe which fed the instant-heat shower that was
vibrating. I couldn't understand how the pump could be responsible, as
it was nothing to do with cold water and at least 10m from the en-suite
pipe. It wasn't, of course, and a bit of internet searching led me to
the float valve on the cold water tank; that was indeed the cause.

So yesterday I removed and cleaned it, but it made no difference; when
the tank filled and the float valve started to cut off the supply, the
vibration started again. Today I replaced the old float valve with a new
Pegler float valve. And the vibration is even worse - now we have a
foghorn! One thing I noticed was that it was possible to cut down the
sound by flexing the side of the plastic CW tank by pushing on the valve
inlet. When I removed the old valve I noticed that the reinforcing metal
plate was mounted horizontally, and that's the position I replaced it
in. But it seems to me the tank would be stiffer with the plate mounted
vertically, so that's what I'm trying. At the moment things seem to be
better, but they may not last.

If the noise returns, I'll try partially closing the tank isolator valve
first to see if that helps, as that's the easiest thing to do. If it
doesn't, I'll try the "yoghurt pot" dampener on the float arm.

But if all those fail, I think the easiest thing is to fit a Torbeck
valve instead of the standard float valve.

--

Jeff
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Default Float valve vibration

In article ,
Jeff Layman wrote:
A couple of months ago we had a new boiler (regular) fitted. A couple of
weeks later my wife said there was a strange noise coming from the spare
bedroom en suite, which only occurred when I was using the basin in the
bathroom. I assumed it was something to to with the HW/CH pump. The next
time it happened I checked and was most surprised to find it was the
mains cold water pipe which fed the instant-heat shower that was
vibrating. I couldn't understand how the pump could be responsible, as
it was nothing to do with cold water and at least 10m from the en-suite
pipe. It wasn't, of course, and a bit of internet searching led me to
the float valve on the cold water tank; that was indeed the cause.


So yesterday I removed and cleaned it, but it made no difference; when
the tank filled and the float valve started to cut off the supply, the
vibration started again. Today I replaced the old float valve with a new
Pegler float valve. And the vibration is even worse - now we have a
foghorn! One thing I noticed was that it was possible to cut down the
sound by flexing the side of the plastic CW tank by pushing on the valve
inlet. When I removed the old valve I noticed that the reinforcing metal
plate was mounted horizontally, and that's the position I replaced it
in. But it seems to me the tank would be stiffer with the plate mounted
vertically, so that's what I'm trying. At the moment things seem to be
better, but they may not last.


If the noise returns, I'll try partially closing the tank isolator valve
first to see if that helps, as that's the easiest thing to do. If it
doesn't, I'll try the "yoghurt pot" dampener on the float arm.


But if all those fail, I think the easiest thing is to fit a Torbeck
valve instead of the standard float valve.


I our previous house we got this effect. it's caused by the valve closing
too quickly. I was advisd to fix a plate to the float arm so that it slowed
down the movement of the float. Worked perfectly.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle
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Default Float valve vibration

On Thursday, 27 December 2018 18:32:40 UTC, Jeff Layman wrote:

A couple of months ago we had a new boiler (regular) fitted. A couple of
weeks later my wife said there was a strange noise coming from the spare
bedroom en suite, which only occurred when I was using the basin in the
bathroom. I assumed it was something to to with the HW/CH pump. The next
time it happened I checked and was most surprised to find it was the
mains cold water pipe which fed the instant-heat shower that was
vibrating. I couldn't understand how the pump could be responsible, as
it was nothing to do with cold water and at least 10m from the en-suite
pipe. It wasn't, of course, and a bit of internet searching led me to
the float valve on the cold water tank; that was indeed the cause.

So yesterday I removed and cleaned it, but it made no difference; when
the tank filled and the float valve started to cut off the supply, the
vibration started again. Today I replaced the old float valve with a new
Pegler float valve. And the vibration is even worse - now we have a
foghorn! One thing I noticed was that it was possible to cut down the
sound by flexing the side of the plastic CW tank by pushing on the valve
inlet. When I removed the old valve I noticed that the reinforcing metal
plate was mounted horizontally, and that's the position I replaced it
in. But it seems to me the tank would be stiffer with the plate mounted
vertically, so that's what I'm trying. At the moment things seem to be
better, but they may not last.

If the noise returns, I'll try partially closing the tank isolator valve
first to see if that helps, as that's the easiest thing to do. If it
doesn't, I'll try the "yoghurt pot" dampener on the float arm.

But if all those fail, I think the easiest thing is to fit a Torbeck
valve instead of the standard float valve.



What usually sets it off is the rubber disc getting harder. A new 50p disc normally fixes it. With a new inlet valve that likely won't solve it. Reducing flow rate can. Adding physical damping to the pipe sometimes helps. Adding a tee shape to trap a pocket of air above the pipe is an approach I gather can also work.


NT
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Default Float valve vibration

Reducing flow rate can.

NT


Rsducing the flow to a degree that the rate is reduced as the valve is
almost closed will cause you problems in filling the cistern fast enough at
times of high demand.
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Default Float valve vibration

On Thursday, 27 December 2018 18:56:16 UTC, DerbyBorn wrote:
Reducing flow rate can.


Rsducing the flow to a degree that the rate is reduced as the valve is
almost closed will cause you problems in filling the cistern fast enough at
times of high demand.


sometimes you don't need much flow reduction, sometimes you do.
FWIW an inline valve has the least effect on flow when the cistern valve is closing, the most when it's full open.


NT


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Default Float valve vibration

Even toilet cistern can have weird oscillator issues. I was in a block of
flats and used the toilet as the water was close to cut of it sounded a bit
like a badly played penny whistle. Luckily not my concern, but I did wonder
if the flat next door to the visitors toilet might be occupied by the
deafest member of the community!
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Jeff Layman" wrote in message
...
A couple of months ago we had a new boiler (regular) fitted. A couple of
weeks later my wife said there was a strange noise coming from the spare
bedroom en suite, which only occurred when I was using the basin in the
bathroom. I assumed it was something to to with the HW/CH pump. The next
time it happened I checked and was most surprised to find it was the mains
cold water pipe which fed the instant-heat shower that was vibrating. I
couldn't understand how the pump could be responsible, as it was nothing to
do with cold water and at least 10m from the en-suite pipe. It wasn't, of
course, and a bit of internet searching led me to the float valve on the
cold water tank; that was indeed the cause.

So yesterday I removed and cleaned it, but it made no difference; when the
tank filled and the float valve started to cut off the supply, the
vibration started again. Today I replaced the old float valve with a new
Pegler float valve. And the vibration is even worse - now we have a
foghorn! One thing I noticed was that it was possible to cut down the
sound by flexing the side of the plastic CW tank by pushing on the valve
inlet. When I removed the old valve I noticed that the reinforcing metal
plate was mounted horizontally, and that's the position I replaced it in.
But it seems to me the tank would be stiffer with the plate mounted
vertically, so that's what I'm trying. At the moment things seem to be
better, but they may not last.

If the noise returns, I'll try partially closing the tank isolator valve
first to see if that helps, as that's the easiest thing to do. If it
doesn't, I'll try the "yoghurt pot" dampener on the float arm.

But if all those fail, I think the easiest thing is to fit a Torbeck valve
instead of the standard float valve.

--

Jeff



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Default Float valve vibration

"Brian Gaff" wrote in
:

Even toilet cistern can have weird oscillator issues. I was in a
block of flats and used the toilet as the water was close to cut of it
sounded a bit like a badly played penny whistle. Luckily not my
concern, but I did wonder if the flat next door to the visitors toilet
might be occupied by the deafest member of the community!
Brian


Some people tolerate stuff and do not recognise such noises as an
opportunity to apply a fix.
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Default Float valve vibration

On Thu, 27 Dec 2018 18:32:38 +0000, Jeff Layman wrote:

If the noise returns, I'll try partially closing the tank isolator valve
first to see if that helps, as that's the easiest thing to do. If it
doesn't, I'll try the "yoghurt pot" dampener on the float arm.


Had this as well right PITA to cure. I think I ended up bracing the
incoming, plastic and very poorly fixed, pipe into a position where
it didn't resonate. Turning the isolator down really on affected when
in the filling cycle the noise appeared and its frequency.

But if all those fail, I think the easiest thing is to fit a Torbeck
valve instead of the standard float valve.


If you do make sure the over flow can cope with the much higher flow
rate of a stuck open torbeck...

--
Cheers
Dave.



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