My wife and I are trusting folk so, when I kissed the brick gatepost
with the car, we asked a local builder to come and quote for taking it
down and rebuilding.
His quote was accepted and on the agreed date a bricklayer turned up,
removed the heavy wrought iron gate, putting the gate and hinges to one
side. He left, having done a really neat job, saying that the mortar
should be left for a fortnight before the gate could be hung.
The owner of the firm turned up and said that no-one had mentioned
putting the gate back on the gatepost, but that he would come and do it
as a favour.
On Friday we returned from the shops to find him there with a couple of
workmen rehanging the gate. My wife made them cups of tea and it went
dark before they left.
On trying to close the gate it was obvious that something was wrong. It
didn't close properly and didn't stay where it was put, closing itself
by gravity.

I rang the builder who said "Oh it just needs heel and toeing using the
adjustment bolts". I expressed doubt, but he dug in saying that this was
only done as a favour and there was nothing more he would do, starting
to get irate. I said I would look at it in daylight.

Looking in the light on Saturday, it was obvious that there was no way
adjustment of the nuts in the right direction was going to work, and
that the problem was that the top hinge was not vertically above the
bottom. The gatepost itself is perfectly true and vertical.

I, or the wife (be very afraid), will ring him tomorrow. I appreciate
this is my fault - I shouldn't have caused the damage in the first place
- and maybe it was foolish to assume that rebuild the gatepost would
include rehanging the gate they took off.
The top hinge is a steel strap held by two big screws into bricks.
Getting it into the correct position would mean moving it about 1 cm
horizontally. I could probably do it myself, in spite of doctors orders,
although I would need help to lift the gate. My concern is that there
will be largish holes in the bricks for the existing plugs, and that I
should try to fill these in with something before attempting an adjacent
hole. The bricks are quite hard and access for drilling is pretty poor,
so there are problems with drilling new holes in a suitable position on
the hinges.

Is there something, preferably in a tube and easy to work with, to fill
the existing holes in the brickwork if we can't persuade the builder to
see sense?
--
Bill

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

On Sun, 09 Dec 2018 18:56:21 +0000, Bill wrote:

Is there something, preferably in a tube and easy to work with, to fill
the existing holes in the brickwork if we can't persuade the builder to
see sense?

Yup.



--
This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via
the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other
protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of
GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet
protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

On 09/12/2018 18:56, Bill wrote:
Is there something, preferably in a tube and easy to work with, to fill
the existing holes in the brickwork if we can't persuade the builder to
see sense?

white cement brick dust and sharp sand, or perhaps buy epoxy mortar.

If you dont mind grey, car body filler.


--
€œProgress is precisely that which rules and regulations did not foresee,€�

€“ Ludwig von Mises

Cursitor Doom Wrote in message:
On Sun, 09 Dec 2018 18:56:21 +0000, Bill wrote:

Is there something, preferably in a tube and easy to work with, to fill
the existing holes in the brickwork if we can't persuade the builder to
see sense?

Yup.




You been taking "helpful lessons" from someone?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 09/12/18 19:14, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 09/12/2018 18:56, Bill wrote:
Is there something, preferably in a tube and easy to work with, to fill
the existing holes in the brickwork if we can't persuade the builder to
see sense?

white cement brick dust and sharp sand, or perhaps buy epoxy mortar.

If you dont mind grey, car body filler.

Or fill the holes with what TNP suggests, leaving about 5 - 10 mm at the
end. Then collect some of the brick dust you get when drilling the new
holes, and mix that with a little mortar to retain as much of the brick
colour that you can, and use that to fill the rest of the hole.

--

Jeff

In message , Jeff Layman
writes
On 09/12/18 19:14, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 09/12/2018 18:56, Bill wrote:
Is there something, preferably in a tube and easy to work with, to fill
the existing holes in the brickwork if we can't persuade the builder to
see sense?
white cement brick dust and sharp sand, or perhaps buy epoxy mortar.
If you dont mind grey, car body filler.

Or fill the holes with what TNP suggests, leaving about 5 - 10 mm at
the end. Then collect some of the brick dust you get when drilling the
new holes, and mix that with a little mortar to retain as much of the
brick colour that you can, and use that to fill the rest of the hole.

The colour isn't critical as it will be behind the hinge. Actually epoxy
mortar sounds attractive. Are the small tubes easy to mix?

TNP's post made me think of using straight epoxy with milled wood or
dust filler, as I'm used to using that. The stuff in the bottom of
containers here will be out of date, but probably ok and I have a large
container of milled wood fibres.

It's on hold now until the builder decides whether his reputation is
worth more or less than two screws.
--
Bill

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

Bill wrote:

Are the small tubes easy to mix?

They tend to have spiral mixing nozzles, some of the tubes (concentric
design) fit normal frame guns, others (side-by-side designb) need a
special dual plunger frame gun.

On Sun, 9 Dec 2018 18:56:21 +0000, Bill wrote:

My concern is that there
will be largish holes in the bricks for the existing plugs, and that I
should try to fill these in with something before attempting an adjacent
hole. The bricks are quite hard and access for drilling is pretty poor,
so there are problems with drilling new holes in a suitable position on
the hinges.

Is there something, preferably in a tube and easy to work with, to fill
the existing holes in the brickwork if we can't persuade the builder to
see sense?

Enlarge the holes, and use a "chemical anchor", also called "chemical fixing",
to bond a bolt directly to the brickwork without a plug?

Not particularly cheap stuff, but possibly worth if you can just reuse the holes
with a bit of blow.out and brush-out...


Thomas Prufer

"Bill" wrote in message
...
My wife and I are trusting folk so, when I kissed the brick gatepost with
the car, we asked a local builder to come and quote for taking it down and
rebuilding.
His quote was accepted and on the agreed date a bricklayer turned up,
removed the heavy wrought iron gate, putting the gate and hinges to one
side. He left, having done a really neat job, saying that the mortar
should be left for a fortnight before the gate could be hung.
The owner of the firm turned up and said that no-one had mentioned putting
the gate back on the gatepost, but that he would come and do it as a
favour.
On Friday we returned from the shops to find him there with a couple of
workmen rehanging the gate. My wife made them cups of tea and it went dark
before they left.
On trying to close the gate it was obvious that something was wrong. It
didn't close properly and didn't stay where it was put, closing itself by
gravity.

I rang the builder who said "Oh it just needs heel and toeing using the
adjustment bolts". I expressed doubt, but he dug in saying that this was
only done as a favour and there was nothing more he would do, starting to
get irate. I said I would look at it in daylight.

Looking in the light on Saturday, it was obvious that there was no way
adjustment of the nuts in the right direction was going to work, and that
the problem was that the top hinge was not vertically above the bottom.
The gatepost itself is perfectly true and vertical.

I, or the wife (be very afraid), will ring him tomorrow. I appreciate this
is my fault - I shouldn't have caused the damage in the first place - and
maybe it was foolish to assume that rebuild the gatepost would include
rehanging the gate they took off.
The top hinge is a steel strap held by two big screws into bricks. Getting
it into the correct position would mean moving it about 1 cm horizontally.
I could probably do it myself, in spite of doctors orders, although I
would need help to lift the gate. My concern is that there will be
largish holes in the bricks for the existing plugs, and that I should try
to fill these in with something before attempting an adjacent hole. The
bricks are quite hard and access for drilling is pretty poor, so there are
problems with drilling new holes in a suitable position on the hinges.

Is there something, preferably in a tube and easy to work with, to fill
the existing holes in the brickwork if we can't persuade the builder to
see sense?

If it was me I'd threaten the arsehole with the small claims
system and use it if he is stupid enough to tell you to ****
off. There is no possibility that the small claims system
wouldn't force him to do what he is legally required to do.

On Mon, 10 Dec 2018 09:32:52 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rot Speed,
the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

FLUSH the senile stinking ****

DARN! And this thread was Rot-free, so far! tsk

--
Norman Wells addressing senile Rot:
"Ah, the voice of scum speaks."
MID:

On Sun, 09 Dec 2018 22:04:26 GMT
Pamela wrote:

On 18:56 9 Dec 2018, Bill wrote in
:

My wife and I are trusting folk so, when I kissed the brick
gatepost with the car, we asked a local builder to come and quote
for taking it down and rebuilding. His quote was accepted and on
the agreed date a bricklayer turned up, removed the heavy wrought
iron gate, putting the gate and hinges to one side. He left, having
done a really neat job, saying that the mortar should be left for a
fortnight before the gate could be hung. The owner of the firm
turned up and said that no-one had mentioned putting the gate back
on the gatepost, but that he would come and do it as a favour. On
Friday we returned from the shops to find him there with a couple
of workmen rehanging the gate. My wife made them cups of tea and it
went dark before they left. On trying to close the gate it was
obvious that something was wrong. It didn't close properly and
didn't stay where it was put, closing itself by gravity.

I rang the builder who said "Oh it just needs heel and toeing using
the adjustment bolts". I expressed doubt, but he dug in saying that
this was only done as a favour and there was nothing more he would
do, starting to get irate. I said I would look at it in daylight.

Looking in the light on Saturday, it was obvious that there was no
way adjustment of the nuts in the right direction was going to
work, and that the problem was that the top hinge was not
vertically above the bottom. The gatepost itself is perfectly true
and vertical.

I, or the wife (be very afraid), will ring him tomorrow. I
appreciate this is my fault - I shouldn't have caused the damage in
the first place - and maybe it was foolish to assume that rebuild
the gatepost would include rehanging the gate they took off.

You're too hard on yourself. It seems reasonable that when you
wanted the gatepost rebuilding that it would be for the gate to close
properly. It wasn't an random or arbitrary gatepost you wanted
building that had no other function than just be on its own.


He is being too hard on himself - the builder's a ****.


Assuming that the builder continues to be a ****, would it be easier
(or possible) to elongate the holes in the brackets to allow some
adjustment?

Jeff Layman explained :
Or fill the holes with what TNP suggests, leaving about 5 - 10 mm at the end.
Then collect some of the brick dust you get when drilling the new holes, and
mix that with a little mortar to retain as much of the brick colour that you
can, and use that to fill the rest of the hole.

I once tried colour matching that way, it takes an awful lot of brick
dust to give it any colour.

Its what you might expect from a computer.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Jim K.." wrote in message
o.uk...
Cursitor Doom Wrote in message:
On Sun, 09 Dec 2018 18:56:21 +0000, Bill wrote:

Is there something, preferably in a tube and easy to work with, to fill
the existing holes in the brickwork if we can't persuade the builder to
see sense?

Yup.




You been taking "helpful lessons" from someone?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

This is what happens when they try to work when its dark of course.

I nearly always find that existing gates have wear and hence drop so if the
whole thing is true it still hits the ground and the latch won't work. I had
some bushes fitted to my garden gate but now the pins of the hinges is
wearing instead. Bah humbug.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Bill" wrote in message
...
In message , Jeff Layman
writes
On 09/12/18 19:14, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 09/12/2018 18:56, Bill wrote:
Is there something, preferably in a tube and easy to work with, to fill
the existing holes in the brickwork if we can't persuade the builder to
see sense?
white cement brick dust and sharp sand, or perhaps buy epoxy mortar.
If you dont mind grey, car body filler.

Or fill the holes with what TNP suggests, leaving about 5 - 10 mm at the
end. Then collect some of the brick dust you get when drilling the new
holes, and mix that with a little mortar to retain as much of the brick
colour that you can, and use that to fill the rest of the hole.

The colour isn't critical as it will be behind the hinge. Actually epoxy
mortar sounds attractive. Are the small tubes easy to mix?

TNP's post made me think of using straight epoxy with milled wood or dust
filler, as I'm used to using that. The stuff in the bottom of containers
here will be out of date, but probably ok and I have a large container of
milled wood fibres.

It's on hold now until the builder decides whether his reputation is worth
more or less than two screws.
--
Bill

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

I nearly always find that existing gates have wear and hence drop so if the
whole thing is true it still hits the ground and the latch won't work. I had
some bushes fitted to my garden gate but now the pins of the hinges is
wearing instead. Bah humbug

Regular greasing helps prevent corrosion and ease the metal on metal rubbing which prevents the pins from thinning and the holes enlarging.

Richard

Brian Gaff wrote

This is what happens when they try to work when its dark of course.

I nearly always find that existing gates have wear and hence drop so if
the whole thing is true it still hits the ground and the latch won't work.

Hasn’t happened with either of mine.

I had some bushes fitted to my garden gate but now the pins of the hinges
is wearing instead. Bah humbug.

Hasn’t happened with either of mine.

"Bill" wrote in message
...
In message , Jeff Layman
writes
On 09/12/18 19:14, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 09/12/2018 18:56, Bill wrote:
Is there something, preferably in a tube and easy to work with, to
fill
the existing holes in the brickwork if we can't persuade the builder
to
see sense?
white cement brick dust and sharp sand, or perhaps buy epoxy mortar.
If you dont mind grey, car body filler.

Or fill the holes with what TNP suggests, leaving about 5 - 10 mm at the
end. Then collect some of the brick dust you get when drilling the new
holes, and mix that with a little mortar to retain as much of the brick
colour that you can, and use that to fill the rest of the hole.

The colour isn't critical as it will be behind the hinge. Actually epoxy
mortar sounds attractive. Are the small tubes easy to mix?

TNP's post made me think of using straight epoxy with milled wood or dust
filler, as I'm used to using that. The stuff in the bottom of containers
here will be out of date, but probably ok and I have a large container of
milled wood fibres.

It's on hold now until the builder decides whether his reputation is
worth more or less than two screws.
--
Bill

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

On Sun, 9 Dec 2018 18:56:21 +0000, Bill wrote:

The top hinge is a steel strap held by two big screws into bricks.
Getting it into the correct position would mean moving it about 1 cm
horizontally.

What's the bottom hinge, is it easier to move that?

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 09/12/2018 22:32, Rod Speed wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...
My wife and I are trusting folk so, when I kissed the brick gatepost
with the car, we asked a local builder to come and quote for taking it
down and rebuilding.
His quote was accepted and on the agreed date a bricklayer turned up,
removed the heavy wrought iron gate, putting the gate and hinges to
one side. He left, having done a really neat job, saying that the
mortar should be left for a fortnight before the gate could be hung.
The owner of the firm turned up and said that no-one had mentioned
putting the gate back on the gatepost, but that he would come and do
it as a favour.
On Friday we returned from the shops to find him there with a couple
of workmen rehanging the gate. My wife made them cups of tea and it
went dark before they left.
On trying to close the gate it was obvious that something was wrong.
It didn't close properly and didn't stay where it was put, closing
itself by gravity.

I rang the builder who said "Oh it just needs heel and toeing using
the adjustment bolts". I expressed doubt, but he dug in saying that
this was only done as a favour and there was nothing more he would do,
starting to get irate. I said I would look at it in daylight.

Looking in the light on Saturday, it was obvious that there was no way
adjustment of the nuts in the right direction was going to work, and
that the problem was that the top hinge was not vertically above the
bottom. The gatepost itself is perfectly true and vertical.

I, or the wife (be very afraid), will ring him tomorrow. I appreciate
this is my fault - I shouldn't have caused the damage in the first
place - and maybe it was foolish to assume that rebuild the gatepost
would include rehanging the gate they took off.
The top hinge is a steel strap held by two big screws into bricks.
Getting it into the correct position would mean moving it about 1 cm
horizontally. I could probably do it myself, in spite of doctors
orders, although I would need help to lift the gate. My concern is
that there will be largish holes in the bricks for the existing plugs,
and that I should try to fill these in with something before
attempting an adjacent hole. The bricks are quite hard and access for
drilling is pretty poor, so there are problems with drilling new holes
in a suitable position on the hinges.

Is there something, preferably in a tube and easy to work with, to
fill the existing holes in the brickwork if we can't persuade the
builder to see sense?

If it was me I'd threaten the arsehole with the small claims
system and use it if he is stupid enough to tell you to ****
off. There is no possibility that the small claims system
wouldn't force him to do what he is legally required to do.

You might discover your claim would fail if Bill had simply asked for
the brick pier to be reinstated. And a counterclaim for the time taken
to refit the gate.

In message l.net,
Dave Liquorice writes
On Sun, 9 Dec 2018 18:56:21 +0000, Bill wrote:

The top hinge is a steel strap held by two big screws into bricks.
Getting it into the correct position would mean moving it about 1 cm
horizontally.

What's the bottom hinge, is it easier to move that?

No, judging by my measurements and a small amount of guesswork, it looks
to me as if the bottom hinge is correctly positioned. The small movement
to put the top hinge vertically above it would bring it all true and
within the adjustment available on the bolts.

Even though we used to open the gates every morning and close them at
night, the hinges are not worn and everything was fine before this
debacle.

--
Bill

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

On Mon, 10 Dec 2018 21:13:18 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rot Speed,
the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


This is what happens when they try to work when its dark of course.

I nearly always find that existing gates have wear and hence drop so if
the whole thing is true it still hits the ground and the latch won't work.

Hasn¢t happened with either of mine.

It has happened with his, idiot!

I had some bushes fitted to my garden gate but now the pins of the hinges
is wearing instead. Bah humbug.

Hasn¢t happened with either of mine.

It has happened with his, idiot!

--
Bill Wright to Rot Speed:
"That confirms my opinion that you are a despicable little ****."
MID:

On Monday, December 10, 2018 at 10:46:57 AM UTC, Bill wrote:
In message l.net,
Dave Liquorice writes
On Sun, 9 Dec 2018 18:56:21 +0000, Bill wrote:

The top hinge is a steel strap held by two big screws into bricks.
Getting it into the correct position would mean moving it about 1 cm
horizontally.

What's the bottom hinge, is it easier to move that?

No, judging by my measurements and a small amount of guesswork, it looks
to me as if the bottom hinge is correctly positioned. The small movement
to put the top hinge vertically above it would bring it all true and
within the adjustment available on the bolts.

Even though we used to open the gates every morning and close them at
night, the hinges are not worn and everything was fine before this
debacle.

--
Bill

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

Sureley if the builder rebuilt the pillar he should be responsibe for ensuring the pintles were aligned ?

On 09/12/2018 20:26, Bill wrote:
It's on hold now until the builder decides whether his reputation is
worth more or less than two screws.

If it is its more than most politicians anyway :-)


--
If I had all the money I've spent on drink...
...I'd spend it on drink.

Sir Henry (at Rawlinson's End)

On 10/12/2018 08:36, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Jeff Layman explained :
Or fill the holes with what TNP suggests, leaving about 5 - 10 mm at
the end. Then collect some of the brick dust you get when drilling the
new holes, and mix that with a little mortar to retain as much of the
brick colour that you can, and use that to fill the rest of the hole.

I once tried colour matching that way, it takes an awful lot of brick
dust to give it any colour.

Thats why just colouring the surface mm or so is no bad thing


--
If I had all the money I've spent on drink...
...I'd spend it on drink.

Sir Henry (at Rawlinson's End)

In message , fred
writes
Sureley if the builder rebuilt the pillar he should be responsibe for
ensuring the pintles were aligned ?

Yes, that's the point, and the pillar is set up correctly. His position
is that the hinge re-instatement was not part of the quote and therefore
was a favour to us. My position is that favour or not, it is a bodged
job and obviously wrong.

We didn't manage to contact him today, as we have just got in from
babysitting a sick one year old.

a friend who is a building surveyor has said he will stop by tomorrow to
have a look and advise. I hope to run the suggestions here past him and
get his opinion about whether to take on the builder or whether it's
such a simple job that I, perhaps with a local handyman, would find it
less hassle to diy.

I suspect the builder left the job to apprentices and didn't inspect
their work properly when he picked them up in the dark. Their website
says "We pride ourselves on customer satisfaction and continue to earn
repeat business from our clients, many of whom have been coming back to
us many years.".
--
Bill

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

Tricky Dicky brought next idea :
Regular greasing helps prevent corrosion and ease the metal on metal rubbing
which prevents the pins from thinning and the holes enlarging.

I think mine are bushed or have some sort of bearing in an eye bolt.
They also have an adjustment top and bottom, to allow the centre/end to
be raised or lowered - unfortunately the installer spot welded the
adjusters once he had set them 8-o

"Fredxx" wrote in message
news
On 09/12/2018 22:32, Rod Speed wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message
...
My wife and I are trusting folk so, when I kissed the brick gatepost
with the car, we asked a local builder to come and quote for taking it
down and rebuilding.
His quote was accepted and on the agreed date a bricklayer turned up,
removed the heavy wrought iron gate, putting the gate and hinges to one
side. He left, having done a really neat job, saying that the mortar
should be left for a fortnight before the gate could be hung.
The owner of the firm turned up and said that no-one had mentioned
putting the gate back on the gatepost, but that he would come and do it
as a favour.
On Friday we returned from the shops to find him there with a couple of
workmen rehanging the gate. My wife made them cups of tea and it went
dark before they left.
On trying to close the gate it was obvious that something was wrong. It
didn't close properly and didn't stay where it was put, closing itself
by gravity.

I rang the builder who said "Oh it just needs heel and toeing using the
adjustment bolts". I expressed doubt, but he dug in saying that this was
only done as a favour and there was nothing more he would do, starting
to get irate. I said I would look at it in daylight.

Looking in the light on Saturday, it was obvious that there was no way
adjustment of the nuts in the right direction was going to work, and
that the problem was that the top hinge was not vertically above the
bottom. The gatepost itself is perfectly true and vertical.

I, or the wife (be very afraid), will ring him tomorrow. I appreciate
this is my fault - I shouldn't have caused the damage in the first
place - and maybe it was foolish to assume that rebuild the gatepost
would include rehanging the gate they took off.
The top hinge is a steel strap held by two big screws into bricks.
Getting it into the correct position would mean moving it about 1 cm
horizontally. I could probably do it myself, in spite of doctors orders,
although I would need help to lift the gate. My concern is that there
will be largish holes in the bricks for the existing plugs, and that I
should try to fill these in with something before attempting an adjacent
hole. The bricks are quite hard and access for drilling is pretty poor,
so there are problems with drilling new holes in a suitable position on
the hinges.

Is there something, preferably in a tube and easy to work with, to fill
the existing holes in the brickwork if we can't persuade the builder to
see sense?

If it was me I'd threaten the arsehole with the small claims
system and use it if he is stupid enough to tell you to ****
off. There is no possibility that the small claims system
wouldn't force him to do what he is legally required to do.

You might discover your claim would fail if Bill had simply asked for the
brick pier to be reinstated.

Sure, but the builder would have to prove that with
say the written request for a quote that said that.

And a counterclaim for the time taken to refit the gate.

That can't fly given that the builder volunteered
to do that. And given that he did refit the gate, he
is legally required to do that properly and didnt.

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
news
Tricky Dicky brought next idea :
Regular greasing helps prevent corrosion and ease the metal on metal
rubbing which prevents the pins from thinning and the holes enlarging.

I think mine are bushed or have some sort of bearing in an eye bolt.

I know mine don't because I made everything, including the hinges.

The bottom hinge is just a bolt welded to the bottom of the gate
with the threaded end cut off with an angle grinder, sitting in a hole
in a thick metal plate that is bolted to the wall. Same at the top.

They also have an adjustment top and bottom, to allow the centre/end to be
raised or lowered

I didn't bother because the walls the plates are bolted
to are true. Easy enough to pack if the walls arent true.

- unfortunately the installer spot welded the
adjusters once he had set them 8-o

After serious thinking Tim J wrote :
I didn't bother because the walls the plates are bolted
to are true. Easy enough to pack if the walls arent true.

Much easier to adjust a pair of nuts, than lifting the weight of a
heavy gate to pack the hinge. My drive gates are wide, heavy and need
to match in the middle.

It happens that Bill formulated :
No, judging by my measurements and a small amount of guesswork, it looks to
me as if the bottom hinge is correctly positioned. The small movement to put
the top hinge vertically above it would bring it all true and within the
adjustment available on the bolts.

Even though we used to open the gates every morning and close them at night,
the hinges are not worn and everything was fine before this debacle.


--

Might you be able to turn the holes in the fixed part of both hinges,
into horizontal slots to allow the needed adjustment?

Bill wrote :
Their website says "We pride ourselves on customer satisfaction and continue
to earn repeat business from our clients, many of whom have been coming back
to us many years.".

They all say that, why would they advertise that they are absolute
rubbish?

We employed a fencing specialist company to continue a line of quality
fencing panels, which he had already done a section of, a few months
before. Matching what was there. The final panel to our rear boundary
needed to be a 1/3 panel long so I had them quote that as a separate
job. The cost was near double the cost of the other panel sections
installed cost, but I accepted it.

The full panels were all absolutely fine, apart from the 1/3, where
they had simply cut a panel down and loosely wedged it in place against
a tree, so I took issue and asked them to either fix it properly or
refund the cost of that extra panel job. It would not have survived the
first high wind.

It could have been easily solved with some simple metal brackets, but
they did neither, so I took them the small claims court. I got a refund
plus court costs.

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
news
After serious thinking Tim J wrote :
I didn't bother because the walls the plates are bolted
to are true. Easy enough to pack if the walls arent true.

Much easier to adjust a pair of nuts, than lifting the weight of a heavy
gate to pack the hinge.

You don't lift the weight of the gate when adjusting,
you get the plates true on the walls by packing and
then put the gates on the hinge pins.

My drive gates are wide, heavy and need to match in the middle.

Trivial to pack the plates true before putting the gates on.

Tim J expressed precisely :
You don't lift the weight of the gate when adjusting,
you get the plates true on the walls by packing and
then put the gates on the hinge pins.

My drive gates are wide, heavy and need to match in the middle.

Trivial to pack the plates true before putting the gates on.

Getting them true and straight is fine, but they will still need some
fine adjustment to account for wear and sag. Threaded adjusters make it
so very easy, without lifting the gate off or supporting the weight.

Harry Bloomfield Wrote in message:
Tim J expressed precisely :
You don't lift the weight of the gate when adjusting,
you get the plates true on the walls by packing and
then put the gates on the hinge pins.

My drive gates are wide, heavy and need to match in the middle.

Trivial to pack the plates true before putting the gates on.

Getting them true and straight is fine, but they will still need some
fine adjustment to account for wear and sag. Threaded adjusters make it
so very easy, without lifting the gate off or supporting the weight.


(Psst! Its woddles in his new pyjamas)
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
news
Tim J expressed precisely :
You don't lift the weight of the gate when adjusting,
you get the plates true on the walls by packing and
then put the gates on the hinge pins.

My drive gates are wide, heavy and need to match in the middle.

Trivial to pack the plates true before putting the gates on.

Getting them true and straight is fine, but they will still need some fine
adjustment to account for wear and sag.

Mine havent and its been 45 years now. I did use big bolts
for the pins, 15 mm or so.

Threaded adjusters make it
so very easy, without lifting the gate off or supporting the weight.

Sure, but would have been a wast of time with mine.

On 10/12/2018 17:57, Rod Speed wrote:


"Fredxx" wrote in message
news
On 09/12/2018 22:32, Rod Speed wrote:

snip

If it was me I'd threaten the arsehole with the small claims
system and use it if he is stupid enough to tell you to ****
off. There is no possibility that the small claims system
wouldn't force him to do what he is legally required to do.

You might discover your claim would fail if Bill had simply asked for
the brick pier to be reinstated.

Sure, but the builder would have to prove that with
say the written request for a quote that said that.

And a counterclaim for the time taken to refit the gate.

That can't fly given that the builder volunteered
to do that. And given that he did refit the gate, he
is legally required to do that properly and didnt.

Under duress, pointing out that there was no requirement by way of
contract. I doubt the builder actually said he would do it for 'free'.
In fact it seems to be quite the opposite. The fact work is done before
any agreement, doesn't mean the work isn't chargeable. Perhaps Australia
has different laws?

"Fredxx" wrote in message
news
On 10/12/2018 17:57, Rod Speed wrote:


"Fredxx" wrote in message
news
On 09/12/2018 22:32, Rod Speed wrote:

snip

If it was me I'd threaten the arsehole with the small claims
system and use it if he is stupid enough to tell you to ****
off. There is no possibility that the small claims system
wouldn't force him to do what he is legally required to do.

You might discover your claim would fail if Bill had simply asked for
the brick pier to be reinstated.

Sure, but the builder would have to prove that with
say the written request for a quote that said that.

And a counterclaim for the time taken to refit the gate.

That can't fly given that the builder volunteered
to do that. And given that he did refit the gate, he
is legally required to do that properly and didnt.

Under duress,

Nope.

pointing out that there was no requirement by way of contract.

There is no formal contract, I bet.

I doubt the builder actually said he would do it for 'free'. In fact it
seems to be quite the opposite.

Then he has to do it right so it works properly.

The fact work is done before any agreement, doesn't mean the work isn't
chargeable.

Never said it wasnt.

Perhaps Australia has different laws?

Not on in this case it doesnt.

On 11/12/2018 22:27, Rod Speed wrote:


"Fredxx" wrote in message
news
On 10/12/2018 17:57, Rod Speed wrote:


"Fredxx" wrote in message
news On 09/12/2018 22:32, Rod Speed wrote:

snip

If it was me I'd threaten the arsehole with the small claims
system and use it if he is stupid enough to tell you to ****
off. There is no possibility that the small claims system
wouldn't force him to do what he is legally required to do.

You might discover your claim would fail if Bill had simply asked
for the brick pier to be reinstated.

Sure, but the builder would have to prove that with
say the written request for a quote that said that.

And a counterclaim for the time taken to refit the gate.

That can't fly given that the builder volunteered
to do that. And given that he did refit the gate, he
is legally required to do that properly and didnt.

Under duress,

Nope.

pointing out that there was no requirement by way of contract.

There is no formal contract, I bet.

It doesn't need to be formal.

I doubt the builder actually said he would do it for 'free'. In fact
it seems to be quite the opposite.

Then he has to do it right so it works properly.

The fact work is done before any agreement, doesn't mean the work
isn't chargeable.

Never said it wasnt.

Perhaps Australia has different laws?

Not on in this case it doesnt.

If something is done for free there is no consideration and no contract.

You are in denial that Australian laws diverge on this point.

"Fredxx" wrote in message
news
On 11/12/2018 22:27, Rod Speed wrote:


"Fredxx" wrote in message
news
On 10/12/2018 17:57, Rod Speed wrote:


"Fredxx" wrote in message
news On 09/12/2018 22:32, Rod Speed wrote:

snip

If it was me I'd threaten the arsehole with the small claims
system and use it if he is stupid enough to tell you to ****
off. There is no possibility that the small claims system
wouldn't force him to do what he is legally required to do.

You might discover your claim would fail if Bill had simply asked for
the brick pier to be reinstated.

Sure, but the builder would have to prove that with
say the written request for a quote that said that.

And a counterclaim for the time taken to refit the gate.

That can't fly given that the builder volunteered
to do that. And given that he did refit the gate, he
is legally required to do that properly and didnt.

Under duress,

Nope.

pointing out that there was no requirement by way of contract.

There is no formal contract, I bet.

It doesn't need to be formal.

I doubt the builder actually said he would do it for 'free'. In fact it
seems to be quite the opposite.

Then he has to do it right so it works properly.

The fact work is done before any agreement, doesn't mean the work isn't
chargeable.

Never said it wasnt.

Perhaps Australia has different laws?

Not on in this case it doesnt.

If something is done for free there is no consideration and no contract.

But it isnt at all clear that legally is actually was done for free given
that it should have been done as part of the original 'contract'

You are in denial that Australian laws diverge on this point.

They dont.

Some gutless drunken drug crazed terminal
****wit desperately cowering behind
Jim K.. wrote
just what you'd expect from a desperately
cowering drug crazed drunken terminal ****wit.

"Rod Speed" Wrote in message:


"Fredxx" wrote in message
news
On 11/12/2018 22:27, Rod Speed wrote:


"Fredxx" wrote in message
news On 10/12/2018 17:57, Rod Speed wrote:


"Fredxx" wrote in message
news On 09/12/2018 22:32, Rod Speed wrote:

snip

If it was me I'd threaten the arsehole with the small claims
system and use it if he is stupid enough to tell you to ****
off. There is no possibility that the small claims system
wouldn't force him to do what he is legally required to do.

You might discover your claim would fail if Bill had simply asked for
the brick pier to be reinstated.

Sure, but the builder would have to prove that with
say the written request for a quote that said that.

And a counterclaim for the time taken to refit the gate.

That can't fly given that the builder volunteered
to do that. And given that he did refit the gate, he
is legally required to do that properly and didn?t.

Under duress,

Nope.

pointing out that there was no requirement by way of contract.

There is no formal contract, I bet.

It doesn't need to be formal.

I doubt the builder actually said he would do it for 'free'. In fact it
seems to be quite the opposite.

Then he has to do it right so it works properly.

The fact work is done before any agreement, doesn't mean the work isn't
chargeable.

Never said it wasn?t.

Perhaps Australia has different laws?

Not on in this case it doesn?t.

If something is done for free there is no consideration and no contract.

But it isnt at all clear that legally is actually was done for free given
that it should have been done as part of the original 'contract'

You are in denial that Australian laws diverge on this point.

They don?t.



You couldn't bull**** your way into a paper bag, wet or otherwise
woddles.
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/