Hi folks,

Ok, have checked out the existing cable I want to use for an
electric oven (and maybe hob) supply. It's the (currently
disconnected) cable that originally supplied a cooker I assume,
it disappears into the wall just outside the kitchen in a small
lobby and andrminates somewhere behind tiles or a false wall,
who knows?

So am going to cut and extend it into the kitchen for my supply.

Do the regs/rules have anything much to say about the cooker
switch location. My old OSG (16th ed) say bthey should be within
2m of the alliances, but not much else. The usual places on the
wall near them is difficult because of existing tiles, access,
running cables etc.

I'm mulling over putting the cooker switch into the cupboard
underneath the oven, or in the lobby where the cable comes down
into, and where I will need to join the new to old cable anyway.
Not visible from the oven/hob, but just the otherside of the
doorway into the lobby, which is just to the right of where the
hob and oven are locate, but much more accessible.

I had a Google, but most discussion on other fora seem to end up
going on about being able to turn it off in a hurry in a fire
etc. which seems an unnecessary concern. My existing gas
appliances can't be quickly turned off, and the CU and main
isolator for the system admin the pantry on the otherside of the
kitchen.

It's a medium term solution anyway, as a full kitchen refit is on
the cards for maybe 2-3 years time?
--
Chris French

On 08/10/2018 19:02, Chris French wrote:

Hi folks,

Ok, have checked out the existing cable I want to use for an
electric oven (and maybe hob) supply. It's the (currently
disconnected) cable that originally supplied a cooker I assume,
it disappears into the wall just outside the kitchen in a small
lobby and andrminates somewhere behind tiles or a false wall,
who knows?

So am going to cut and extend it into the kitchen for my supply.

Do the regs/rules have anything much to say about the cooker
switch location. My old OSG (16th ed) say bthey should be within
2m of the alliances, but not much else. The usual places on the
wall near them is difficult because of existing tiles, access,
running cables etc.

I'm mulling over putting the cooker switch into the cupboard
underneath the oven, or in the lobby where the cable comes down
into, and where I will need to join the new to old cable anyway.
Not visible from the oven/hob, but just the otherside of the
doorway into the lobby, which is just to the right of where the
hob and oven are locate, but much more accessible.

I had a Google, but most discussion on other fora seem to end up
going on about being able to turn it off in a hurry in a fire
etc. which seems an unnecessary concern. My existing gas
appliances can't be quickly turned off, and the CU and main
isolator for the system admin the pantry on the otherside of the
kitchen.

It's a medium term solution anyway, as a full kitchen refit is on
the cards for maybe 2-3 years time?



The 6 new build flats I recently wired up had the cooker switch in the
cupboard and this was brought up by the NICEIC inspector. Something
about "reasonable means of isolation for persons unfamiliar with the
location of the isolator".

He said that it was fine in a cupboard (although preferably near the
front of the cupboard, even if that means trunking inside the cupboard
to fetch the switch forward) for a home owner.

However for holiday rentals or where home helps (often agency staff with
a high turnover) are going to to be using the cooker then it is still
fine in a cupboard but a visible notice of some sort "may" need to be
displayed so that they users know where the switch is in an emergency.

He basically said that you need to cover your arse.



--
Adam

On Monday, 8 October 2018 19:03:41 UTC+1, Chris French wrote:
Hi folks,

Ok, have checked out the existing cable I want to use for an
electric oven (and maybe hob) supply. It's the (currently
disconnected) cable that originally supplied a cooker I assume,
it disappears into the wall just outside the kitchen in a small
lobby and andrminates somewhere behind tiles or a false wall,
who knows?

So am going to cut and extend it into the kitchen for my supply.

Do the regs/rules have anything much to say about the cooker
switch location. My old OSG (16th ed) say bthey should be within
2m of the alliances, but not much else. The usual places on the
wall near them is difficult because of existing tiles, access,
running cables etc.

I'm mulling over putting the cooker switch into the cupboard
underneath the oven, or in the lobby where the cable comes down
into, and where I will need to join the new to old cable anyway.
Not visible from the oven/hob, but just the otherside of the
doorway into the lobby, which is just to the right of where the
hob and oven are locate, but much more accessible.

I had a Google, but most discussion on other fora seem to end up
going on about being able to turn it off in a hurry in a fire
etc. which seems an unnecessary concern. My existing gas
appliances can't be quickly turned off, and the CU and main
isolator for the system admin the pantry on the otherside of the
kitchen.

It's a medium term solution anyway, as a full kitchen refit is on
the cards for maybe 2-3 years time?

how close to the flame or ring is it allowed to go?

On Monday, 8 October 2018 19:03:41 UTC+1, Chris French wrote:
The usual places on the wall near them is difficult because
of existing tiles, access, running cables etc.

Pull-cord from the ceiling?

As used for electric showers, with mechanical 'off' indication if wanted

Owain

On Mon, 08 Oct 2018 19:25:53 +0100, ARW wrote:

The 6 new build flats I recently wired up had the cooker switch in the
cupboard and this was brought up by the NICEIC inspector. Something
about "reasonable means of isolation for persons unfamiliar with the
location of the isolator".

He said that it was fine in a cupboard (although preferably near the
front of the cupboard, even if that means trunking inside the cupboard
to fetch the switch forward) for a home owner.

When we moved in here, ours was in a small cupboard *over* the oven - at
the back of a shelf 6 feet from the ground (built in 'mid' oven).

I wondered how one could possibly operate that in an emargency, so I
brought it outside the cupboard (on the side) with trunking inside
protecting the cable.



--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

On 08/10/18 19:02, Chris French wrote:

Hi folks,

Ok, have checked out the existing cable I want to use for an
electric oven (and maybe hob) supply. It's the (currently
disconnected) cable that originally supplied a cooker I assume,
it disappears into the wall just outside the kitchen in a small
lobby and andrminates somewhere behind tiles or a false wall,
who knows?

So am going to cut and extend it into the kitchen for my supply.

Do the regs/rules have anything much to say about the cooker
switch location. My old OSG (16th ed) say bthey should be within
2m of the alliances, but not much else. The usual places on the
wall near them is difficult because of existing tiles, access,
running cables etc.

When we moved here 6 years ago the kitchen had a double electric oven to
the left side of the gas hob. Under the hob were six drawers arranged in
two columns and three rows. On the other side of the oven were
cupboards. I looked in the cupboards for the oven power supply switch,
but couldn't find it. It also wasn't on top of the cupboards.

A couple of years later the oven failed and had to be replaced. When it
was removed I took the opportunity to see where the cable went. To my
surprise it disappeared to the back of where the hob and drawers were.
On removing the drawers, I found the switch behind the right-hand middle
drawer - ie that furthest from the oven! It was not possible to operate
the switch without the drawer being taken out first.

By the way, the gas tap for the supply to the hob was behind the upper
left-hand drawer, and could also not be operated without first removing
the drawer.

--

Jeff

Well that seems sensible to me. One has also to look at history and realise
that as the original poster said, the isolation right next to the item is
not really an issue.

Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"ARW" wrote in message
...
On 08/10/2018 19:02, Chris French wrote:

Hi folks,

Ok, have checked out the existing cable I want to use for an
electric oven (and maybe hob) supply. It's the (currently
disconnected) cable that originally supplied a cooker I assume,
it disappears into the wall just outside the kitchen in a small
lobby and andrminates somewhere behind tiles or a false wall,
who knows?

So am going to cut and extend it into the kitchen for my supply.

Do the regs/rules have anything much to say about the cooker
switch location. My old OSG (16th ed) say bthey should be within
2m of the alliances, but not much else. The usual places on the
wall near them is difficult because of existing tiles, access,
running cables etc.

I'm mulling over putting the cooker switch into the cupboard
underneath the oven, or in the lobby where the cable comes down
into, and where I will need to join the new to old cable anyway.
Not visible from the oven/hob, but just the otherside of the
doorway into the lobby, which is just to the right of where the
hob and oven are locate, but much more accessible.

I had a Google, but most discussion on other fora seem to end up
going on about being able to turn it off in a hurry in a fire
etc. which seems an unnecessary concern. My existing gas
appliances can't be quickly turned off, and the CU and main
isolator for the system admin the pantry on the otherside of the
kitchen.

It's a medium term solution anyway, as a full kitchen refit is on
the cards for maybe 2-3 years time?



The 6 new build flats I recently wired up had the cooker switch in the
cupboard and this was brought up by the NICEIC inspector. Something about
"reasonable means of isolation for persons unfamiliar with the location of
the isolator".

He said that it was fine in a cupboard (although preferably near the front
of the cupboard, even if that means trunking inside the cupboard to fetch
the switch forward) for a home owner.

However for holiday rentals or where home helps (often agency staff with a
high turnover) are going to to be using the cooker then it is still fine
in a cupboard but a visible notice of some sort "may" need to be displayed
so that they users know where the switch is in an emergency.

He basically said that you need to cover your arse.



--
Adam

ARW Wrote in message:
On 08/10/2018 19:02, Chris French wrote:

Hi folks,

Ok, have checked out the existing cable I want to use for an
electric oven (and maybe hob) supply. It's the (currently
disconnected) cable that originally supplied a cooker I assume,
it disappears into the wall just outside the kitchen in a small
lobby and andrminates somewhere behind tiles or a false wall,
who knows?

So am going to cut and extend it into the kitchen for my supply.

Do the regs/rules have anything much to say about the cooker
switch location. My old OSG (16th ed) say bthey should be within
2m of the alliances, but not much else. The usual places on the
wall near them is difficult because of existing tiles, access,
running cables etc.

I'm mulling over putting the cooker switch into the cupboard
underneath the oven, or in the lobby where the cable comes down
into, and where I will need to join the new to old cable anyway.
Not visible from the oven/hob, but just the otherside of the
doorway into the lobby, which is just to the right of where the
hob and oven are locate, but much more accessible.

I had a Google, but most discussion on other fora seem to end up
going on about being able to turn it off in a hurry in a fire
etc. which seems an unnecessary concern. My existing gas
appliances can't be quickly turned off, and the CU and main
isolator for the system admin the pantry on the otherside of the
kitchen.

It's a medium term solution anyway, as a full kitchen refit is on
the cards for maybe 2-3 years time?



The 6 new build flats I recently wired up had the cooker switch in the
cupboard and this was brought up by the NICEIC inspector. Something
about "reasonable means of isolation for persons unfamiliar with the
location of the isolator".

He said that it was fine in a cupboard (although preferably near the
front of the cupboard, even if that means trunking inside the cupboard
to fetch the switch forward) for a home owner.

However for holiday rentals or where home helps (often agency staff with
a high turnover) are going to to be using the cooker then it is still
fine in a cupboard but a visible notice of some sort "may" need to be
displayed so that they users know where the switch is in an emergency.

He basically said that you need to cover your arse.


Thanks Adam,

Going for cupboard I think, as I need to put the connection to the
oven itself somewhere anyway.

Notice makes sense I guess in that situation, though unconvinced
that people switch of cookers in an emergency , as opposed to
just on the appliance.
--
Chris French

On 08/10/2018 20:36, wrote:
On Monday, 8 October 2018 19:03:41 UTC+1, Chris French wrote:
The usual places on the wall near them is difficult because
of existing tiles, access, running cables etc.

Pull-cord from the ceiling?

As used for electric showers, with mechanical 'off' indication if wanted

I believe that the mechanical ON/OFF is the requirement not the neon light.

BTW the cooker switch the apprentice fitted last week said NO....


--
Adam

On 09/10/2018 12:40, Chris French wrote:

Going for cupboard I think, as I need to put the connection to the
oven itself somewhere anyway.

Notice makes sense I guess in that situation, though unconvinced
that people switch of cookers in an emergency , as opposed to
just on the appliance.


I suppose it goes back to the days when people had chip pans.

As a kid I remember my nextdoor neighbour having a chip fan fire. Her
solution was to throw the pan contents out of the back door.

--
Adam

"ARW" wrote in message
...
On 09/10/2018 12:40, Chris French wrote:

Going for cupboard I think, as I need to put the connection to the
oven itself somewhere anyway.

Notice makes sense I guess in that situation, though unconvinced
that people switch of cookers in an emergency , as opposed to
just on the appliance.


I suppose it goes back to the days when people had chip pans.

As a kid I remember my nextdoor neighbour having a chip fan fire. Her
solution was to throw the pan contents out of the back door.

I saw the effects of a chip pan fire on someone - not someone I knew but a
badly-burned and disfigured woman that we sometimes saw in the local shops.
Apparently she'd moved a chip pan that was on fire and as soon as she opened
the back door to put the pan outside, there was a gust of wind which blew
the flames into her face.

The correct thing to do, and it's hard to resist the instinct to do
otherwise, is to leave the pan where it is, and drape a damp (but well
wrung-out) towel over the top, working from front to back, with the towel
folded back over your knuckles to protect them. And then leave it alone and
call the fire brigade in case it doesn't go out - or relights. On no account
pour any water on it, because the water will turn to steam which will cause
the hot fat to spit everywhere, spreading the fire. Same thing applies to
any burning-liquid fire (petrol, diesel, heating oil) - no water!

Now try remembering all that in an emergency.

On 10/10/2018 17:20, NY wrote:
"ARW" wrote in message
...
On 09/10/2018 12:40, Chris French wrote:

Going for cupboard I think, as I need to put the connection to the
Â* oven itself somewhere anyway.

Notice makes sense I guess in that situation, though unconvinced
Â* that people switch of cookers in an emergency , as opposed to
Â* just on the appliance.


I suppose it goes back to the days when people had chip pans.

As a kid I remember my nextdoor neighbour having a chip fan fire. Her
solution was to throw the pan contents out of the back door.

I saw the effects of a chip pan fire on someone - not someone I knew but
a badly-burned and disfigured woman that we sometimes saw in the local
shops. Apparently she'd moved a chip pan that was on fire and as soon as
she opened the back door to put the pan outside, there was a gust of
wind which blew the flames into her face.

The correct thing to do, and it's hard to resist the instinct to do
otherwise, is to leave the pan where it is, and drape a damp (but well
wrung-out) towel over the top, working from front to back, with the
towel folded back over your knuckles to protect them. And then leave it
alone and call the fire brigade in case it doesn't go out - or relights.
On no account pour any water on it, because the water will turn to steam
which will cause the hot fat to spit everywhere, spreading the fire.
Same thing applies to any burning-liquid fire (petrol, diesel, heating
oil) - no water!

Now try remembering all that in an emergency.

Or if having a fry up after a session in the pub.

--
Adam

On 10/10/2018 17:04, ARW wrote:
On 08/10/2018 20:36, wrote:
On Monday, 8 October 2018 19:03:41 UTC+1, Chris FrenchÂ* wrote:
The usual places on the wall near them is difficult because
of existing tiles, access, running cables etc.

Pull-cord from the ceiling?

As used for electric showers, with mechanical 'off' indication if wanted

I believe that the mechanical ON/OFF is the requirement not the neon light.

BTW the cooker switch the apprentice fitted last week said NO....



He fitted it upside down? Do they still have a 13 amp power point included?

On Wednesday, 10 October 2018 17:04:20 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
BTW the cooker switch the apprentice fitted last week said NO....

I'm guessing he wired it wrongly too, so it said NO when it should have said YES

Owain

On 10/10/2018 17:20, NY wrote:
"ARW" wrote in message
...
On 09/10/2018 12:40, Chris French wrote:

Going for cupboard I think, as I need to put the connection to the
Â* oven itself somewhere anyway.

Notice makes sense I guess in that situation, though unconvinced
Â* that people switch of cookers in an emergency , as opposed to
Â* just on the appliance.


I suppose it goes back to the days when people had chip pans.

As a kid I remember my nextdoor neighbour having a chip fan fire. Her
solution was to throw the pan contents out of the back door.

I saw the effects of a chip pan fire on someone - not someone I knew but
a badly-burned and disfigured woman that we sometimes saw in the local
shops. Apparently she'd moved a chip pan that was on fire and as soon as
she opened the back door to put the pan outside, there was a gust of
wind which blew the flames into her face.

The correct thing to do, and it's hard to resist the instinct to do
otherwise, is to leave the pan where it is, and drape a damp (but well
wrung-out) towel over the top, working from front to back, with the
towel folded back over your knuckles to protect them. And then leave it
alone and call the fire brigade in case it doesn't go out - or relights.
On no account pour any water on it, because the water will turn to steam
which will cause the hot fat to spit everywhere, spreading the fire.
Same thing applies to any burning-liquid fire (petrol, diesel, heating
oil) - no water!

Now try remembering all that in an emergency.

And remember also to turn off the gas/electricity under the pan

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On 10/10/2018 17:41, GB wrote:
On 10/10/2018 17:04, ARW wrote:
On 08/10/2018 20:36, wrote:
On Monday, 8 October 2018 19:03:41 UTC+1, Chris FrenchÂ* wrote:
The usual places on the wall near them is difficult because
of existing tiles, access, running cables etc.

Pull-cord from the ceiling?

As used for electric showers, with mechanical 'off' indication if wanted

I believe that the mechanical ON/OFF is the requirement not the neon
light.

BTW the cooker switch the apprentice fitted last week said NO....



He fitted it upside down? Do they still have a 13 amp power point included?


Yes it was upside down, not bad after 4 years of training.

This one did not have the socket outlet. The socket is optional.

--
Adam

On 10/10/2018 18:35, ARW wrote:
On 10/10/2018 17:41, GB wrote:
On 10/10/2018 17:04, ARW wrote:
On 08/10/2018 20:36, wrote:
On Monday, 8 October 2018 19:03:41 UTC+1, Chris FrenchÂ* wrote:
The usual places on the wall near them is difficult because
of existing tiles, access, running cables etc.

Pull-cord from the ceiling?

As used for electric showers, with mechanical 'off' indication if
wanted

I believe that the mechanical ON/OFF is the requirement not the neon
light.

BTW the cooker switch the apprentice fitted last week said NO....



He fitted it upside down? Do they still have a 13 amp power point
included?


Yes it was upside down, not bad after 4 years of training.

This one did not have the socket outlet. The socket is optional.



If there was no socket to show which way up it goes, it wasn't really
his fault then was it?

I used to wonder how somebody could be so kind to cats, yet so unkind to
apprentices. Your recent posts have enlightened me, thanks.

On 10/10/2018 18:49, GB wrote:
On 10/10/2018 18:35, ARW wrote:
On 10/10/2018 17:41, GB wrote:
On 10/10/2018 17:04, ARW wrote:
On 08/10/2018 20:36, wrote:
On Monday, 8 October 2018 19:03:41 UTC+1, Chris FrenchÂ* wrote:
The usual places on the wall near them is difficult because
of existing tiles, access, running cables etc.

Pull-cord from the ceiling?

As used for electric showers, with mechanical 'off' indication if
wanted

I believe that the mechanical ON/OFF is the requirement not the neon
light.

BTW the cooker switch the apprentice fitted last week said NO....



He fitted it upside down? Do they still have a 13 amp power point
included?


Yes it was upside down, not bad after 4 years of training.

This one did not have the socket outlet. The socket is optional.



If there was no socket to show which way up it goes, it wasn't really
his fault then was it?

I'd say the word "NO" on the front was a pretty clear clue that
something was not right. Not to mention the labels on the back (load,
L, N etc) which are also bit of clue.


--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On 10/10/2018 18:49, GB wrote:
On 10/10/2018 18:35, ARW wrote:
On 10/10/2018 17:41, GB wrote:
On 10/10/2018 17:04, ARW wrote:
On 08/10/2018 20:36, wrote:
On Monday, 8 October 2018 19:03:41 UTC+1, Chris FrenchÂ* wrote:
The usual places on the wall near them is difficult because
of existing tiles, access, running cables etc.

Pull-cord from the ceiling?

As used for electric showers, with mechanical 'off' indication if
wanted

I believe that the mechanical ON/OFF is the requirement not the neon
light.

BTW the cooker switch the apprentice fitted last week said NO....



He fitted it upside down? Do they still have a 13 amp power point
included?


Yes it was upside down, not bad after 4 years of training.

This one did not have the socket outlet. The socket is optional.



If there was no socket to show which way up it goes, it wasn't really
his fault then was it?

I used to wonder how somebody could be so kind to cats, yet so unkind to
apprentices.Â* Your recent posts have enlightened me, thanks.

It does depend on which apprentice. I am not unkind to the one that put
the switch on upside down as he gives 100% effort. I did of course take
the **** out of him.

I am amazed that he stayed. When he first started at 16 I know that he
caught the train to Doncaster and then walked to work from Doncaster
train station. A 20 minute walk. He did this for 2 years until he could
drive and buy a car. I don't often call at the office in a morning, but
when I did I picked him up at the train station as it was not out of my way.

Today I was with the 2nd year apprentice. Now he is gifted but likes his
mobile phone. IMHO Facebook or whatever can wait until after work.

And the new starter? I was with him yesterday. I gave him two dust
sheets and asked him to put them down in the bathroom. I then went to
turn the power off. When I got back to the bathroom were two dust sheets
laid down in the bathroom?

No.

He had put the dust sheets on the landing (still folded up) and gone to
the van to look for some dust sheets.

--
Adam

On 10/10/2018 17:30, ARW wrote:
On 10/10/2018 17:20, NY wrote:
"ARW" wrote in message
...
On 09/10/2018 12:40, Chris French wrote:

Going for cupboard I think, as I need to put the connection to the
Â* oven itself somewhere anyway.

Notice makes sense I guess in that situation, though unconvinced
Â* that people switch of cookers in an emergency , as opposed to
Â* just on the appliance.


I suppose it goes back to the days when people had chip pans.

As a kid I remember my nextdoor neighbour having a chip fan fire. Her
solution was to throw the pan contents out of the back door.

I saw the effects of a chip pan fire on someone - not someone I knew
but a badly-burned and disfigured woman that we sometimes saw in the
local shops. Apparently she'd moved a chip pan that was on fire and as
soon as she opened the back door to put the pan outside, there was a
gust of wind which blew the flames into her face.

The correct thing to do, and it's hard to resist the instinct to do
otherwise, is to leave the pan where it is, and drape a damp (but well
wrung-out) towel over the top, working from front to back, with the
towel folded back over your knuckles to protect them. And then leave
it alone and call the fire brigade in case it doesn't go out - or
relights. On no account pour any water on it, because the water will
turn to steam which will cause the hot fat to spit everywhere,
spreading the fire. Same thing applies to any burning-liquid fire
(petrol, diesel, heating oil) - no water!

Now try remembering all that in an emergency.

Or if having a fry up after a session in the pub.

Yes, back in my single days, it was a good job I had a temperature
controlled, deep-fat fryer. If I'd had a chip pan, the house would have
been on fire on more than one occassion.

It probably didn't help that both myself and a friend were going through
really bad times at work and meeting up to drink far too much most nights.

SteveW

On Wednesday, 10 October 2018 17:04:20 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
BTW the cooker switch the apprentice fitted last week said NO....

Did you get him to test for volt drop?

https://youtu.be/x3WFwysJ8Us?t=646

"just have a look inside to see if any volts have come out yet"

Owain

In article , ARW
writes
On 08/10/2018 20:36, wrote:
On Monday, 8 October 2018 19:03:41 UTC+1, Chris French wrote:
The usual places on the wall near them is difficult because
of existing tiles, access, running cables etc.
Pull-cord from the ceiling?
As used for electric showers, with mechanical 'off' indication if
wanted

I believe that the mechanical ON/OFF is the requirement not the neon light.

BTW the cooker switch the apprentice fitted last week said NO....


ROTFL
--
bert

On 11/10/2018 21:14, wrote:
On Wednesday, 10 October 2018 17:04:20 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
BTW the cooker switch the apprentice fitted last week said NO....

Did you get him to test for volt drop?

https://youtu.be/x3WFwysJ8Us?t=646

"just have a look inside to see if any volts have come out yet"

Thank you for that.

Had the new starter "lock himself out the house" today. The back door
blew shut and it was a Yale lock. It was ****ing it down and blowing a
gale and I did not hear him knocking on the back door. It is only a 15
second walk around the house to the open (non Yale) uPVC front door.

He eventually worked it out.




--
Adam

On 10/10/2018 20:50, Steve Walker wrote:
On 10/10/2018 17:30, ARW wrote:
On 10/10/2018 17:20, NY wrote:
"ARW" wrote in message
...
On 09/10/2018 12:40, Chris French wrote:

Going for cupboard I think, as I need to put the connection to the
Â* oven itself somewhere anyway.

Notice makes sense I guess in that situation, though unconvinced
Â* that people switch of cookers in an emergency , as opposed to
Â* just on the appliance.


I suppose it goes back to the days when people had chip pans.

As a kid I remember my nextdoor neighbour having a chip fan fire.
Her solution was to throw the pan contents out of the back door.

I saw the effects of a chip pan fire on someone - not someone I knew
but a badly-burned and disfigured woman that we sometimes saw in the
local shops. Apparently she'd moved a chip pan that was on fire and
as soon as she opened the back door to put the pan outside, there was
a gust of wind which blew the flames into her face.

The correct thing to do, and it's hard to resist the instinct to do
otherwise, is to leave the pan where it is, and drape a damp (but
well wrung-out) towel over the top, working from front to back, with
the towel folded back over your knuckles to protect them. And then
leave it alone and call the fire brigade in case it doesn't go out -
or relights. On no account pour any water on it, because the water
will turn to steam which will cause the hot fat to spit everywhere,
spreading the fire. Same thing applies to any burning-liquid fire
(petrol, diesel, heating oil) - no water!

Now try remembering all that in an emergency.

Or if having a fry up after a session in the pub.

Yes, back in my single days, it was a good job I had a temperature
controlled, deep-fat fryer. If I'd had a chip pan, the house would have
been on fire on more than one occassion.

It probably didn't help that both myself and a friend were going through
really bad times at work and meeting up to drink far too much most nights.


https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x223dm8

3 min 18 seconds.





--
Adam