With the recent fuss about utility fires I was contemplating using 100mm
aluminium flexible duct rather than the usual plastic.

Lower air flow resistance, less likelihood of trapped fibres/fire risk
but... what about condensation issues?
--
Tim Lamb

"Jim K" wrote in message
o.uk...
Tim Lamb Wrote in message:
With the recent fuss about utility fires I was contemplating using 100mm
aluminium flexible duct rather than the usual plastic.

Lower air flow resistance, less likelihood of trapped fibres/fire risk
but... what about condensation issues?

I thought the fires started in the appliances, not the ducting?

I think they do, but a duct to the outside probably acts as a good supply of
air to feed an appliance fire, whereas if the fire consumes the air in a
closed room, it may use up the oxygen and suffocate itself out. Do any ducts
have a one-way filter to allow air out, without letting air in, either to
feed a fire or to let cold air into a warm room if the drier door is left
open?

Tim Lamb Wrote in message:
With the recent fuss about utility fires I was contemplating using 100mm
aluminium flexible duct rather than the usual plastic.

Lower air flow resistance, less likelihood of trapped fibres/fire risk
but... what about condensation issues?

I thought the fires started in the appliances, not the ducting?
--
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

"NY" wrote in message
o.uk...
"Jim K" wrote in message
o.uk...
Tim Lamb Wrote in message:
With the recent fuss about utility fires I was contemplating using 100mm
aluminium flexible duct rather than the usual plastic.

Lower air flow resistance, less likelihood of trapped fibres/fire risk
but... what about condensation issues?

I thought the fires started in the appliances, not the ducting?

I think they do, but a duct to the outside probably acts as a good supply
of air to feed an appliance fire, whereas if the fire consumes the air in
a closed room, it may use up the oxygen and suffocate itself out.

That's not going to happen.

Do any ducts have a one-way filter to allow air out, without letting air
in, either to feed a fire or to let cold air into a warm room if the drier
door is left open?

Nope.

On Sat, 15 Sep 2018 19:36:17 +1000, cantankerous trolling senile geezer Rot
Speed blabbered, again:

I think they do, but a duct to the outside probably acts as a good supply
of air to feed an appliance fire, whereas if the fire consumes the air in
a closed room, it may use up the oxygen and suffocate itself out.

That's not going to happen.

Are you sure, senile Rot? Senilely sure, again? BG

Do any ducts have a one-way filter to allow air out, without letting air
in, either to feed a fire or to let cold air into a warm room if the drier
door is left open?

Nope.

Are you sure, again, senile Rot? Senilely sure? BG

--
FredXX to Rot Speed:
"You are still an idiot and an embarrassment to your country. No wonder
we shippe the likes of you out of the British Isles. Perhaps stupidity
and criminality is inherited after all?"
Message-ID:

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
With the recent fuss about utility fires I was contemplating using 100mm
aluminium flexible duct rather than the usual plastic.

Lower air flow resistance, less likelihood of trapped fibres/fire risk
but... what about condensation issues?

just service the machine now and again ......

Tim Lamb wrote:
With the recent fuss about utility fires I was contemplating using 100mm
aluminium flexible duct rather than the usual plastic.

Its not going to affect the fire risk if you have a dodgy dryer.


Lower air flow resistance, less likelihood of trapped fibres/fire risk
but... what about condensation issues?

I would worry about condensation. I once extended my dryer hose when it was
temporarily located in my garage and I was surprised at just how much
condensation occurred due to the extra length.

I suppose as long as the run isnt too long youd be fine.

Tim



--
Please don't feed the trolls

On Saturday, 15 September 2018 10:17:44 UTC+1, NY wrote:
"Jim K" wrote in message
o.uk...
Tim Lamb Wrote in message:
With the recent fuss about utility fires I was contemplating using 100mm
aluminium flexible duct rather than the usual plastic.

Lower air flow resistance, less likelihood of trapped fibres/fire risk
but... what about condensation issues?

I thought the fires started in the appliances, not the ducting?

I think they do, but a duct to the outside probably acts as a good supply of
air to feed an appliance fire, whereas if the fire consumes the air in a
closed room, it may use up the oxygen and suffocate itself out. Do any ducts
have a one-way filter to allow air out, without letting air in, either to
feed a fire or to let cold air into a warm room if the drier door is left
open?

Human survivability is much better when there's plenty of air available. It's smoke that usually kills people in a fire. There has always been concern about fanned air increasing the fire, but in fact the phenomenon of flashover, which massively increases fire intensity & spread, occurs only when there is insufficient air.

The ideal thing is to provide lots of air containing water spray, and I saw a trials of such a system long ago with positive results.


NT

In message
,
Tim+ writes
Tim Lamb wrote:
With the recent fuss about utility fires I was contemplating using 100mm
aluminium flexible duct rather than the usual plastic.

Its not going to affect the fire risk if you have a dodgy dryer.


Lower air flow resistance, less likelihood of trapped fibres/fire risk
but... what about condensation issues?

I would worry about condensation. I once extended my dryer hose when it was
temporarily located in my garage and I was surprised at just how much
condensation occurred due to the extra length.

I suppose as long as the run isnt too long youd be fine.

About 2m by the time it has got through the wall. The wall kits seem to
use it anyway.

I have had a look round the supplier sites since I posted. No
restrictions found. Wickes looks OK although there are plenty of others.
Is reducing the air flow resistance a benefit anyway?
Having disassembled a few over the years, I just don't like to think of
the gathered crud:-(
--
Tim Lamb

On 15/09/2018 09:45, Tim Lamb wrote:
With the recent fuss about utility fires I was contemplating using 100mm
aluminium flexible duct rather than the usual plastic.

Lower air flow resistance, less likelihood of trapped fibres/fire risk
but... what about condensation issues?

You may get condensation in the duct - but that would be true for ali or
plastic. Having it routed so that it can drain will help.

You can get some twin wall duct that is more resistant to condensation -
although that tends to be a combination of ali foil and plastic.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 15/09/2018 13:45, wrote:
On Saturday, 15 September 2018 10:17:44 UTC+1, NY wrote:
"Jim K" wrote in message
o.uk...
Tim Lamb Wrote in message:
With the recent fuss about utility fires I was contemplating using 100mm
aluminium flexible duct rather than the usual plastic.

Lower air flow resistance, less likelihood of trapped fibres/fire risk
but... what about condensation issues?

I thought the fires started in the appliances, not the ducting?

I think they do, but a duct to the outside probably acts as a good supply of
air to feed an appliance fire, whereas if the fire consumes the air in a
closed room, it may use up the oxygen and suffocate itself out. Do any ducts
have a one-way filter to allow air out, without letting air in, either to
feed a fire or to let cold air into a warm room if the drier door is left
open?

Human survivability is much better when there's plenty of air available. It's smoke that usually kills people in a fire. There has always been concern about fanned air increasing the fire, but in fact the phenomenon of flashover, which massively increases fire intensity & spread, occurs only when there is insufficient air.

The ideal thing is to provide lots of air containing water spray, and I saw a trials of such a system long ago with positive results.

Some of the fire brigades have started using massive industrial fans to
blow air into buildings to help them work inside them. Although it
seemed counter intuitive apparently it can work quite well.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...
Some of the fire brigades have started using massive industrial fans to
blow air into buildings to help them work inside them. Although it seemed
counter intuitive apparently it can work quite well.

I read an article years ago saying that UK fire brigades were beginning
trials of a system that had been in use in the US for years: using blowers
at one side of the property to flow fresh air into the building and blow the
flames out through the back. It also keeps the building clear of smoke so
they can see what they are doing, and ensures an excess of oxygen to avoid
flashover which occurs when the oxygen gets low.

On Saturday, 15 September 2018 14:46:04 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 15/09/2018 13:45, tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 15 September 2018 10:17:44 UTC+1, NY wrote:
"Jim K" wrote in message
o.uk...
Tim Lamb Wrote in message:
With the recent fuss about utility fires I was contemplating using 100mm
aluminium flexible duct rather than the usual plastic.

Lower air flow resistance, less likelihood of trapped fibres/fire risk
but... what about condensation issues?

I thought the fires started in the appliances, not the ducting?

I think they do, but a duct to the outside probably acts as a good supply of
air to feed an appliance fire, whereas if the fire consumes the air in a
closed room, it may use up the oxygen and suffocate itself out. Do any ducts
have a one-way filter to allow air out, without letting air in, either to
feed a fire or to let cold air into a warm room if the drier door is left
open?

Human survivability is much better when there's plenty of air available.. It's smoke that usually kills people in a fire. There has always been concern about fanned air increasing the fire, but in fact the phenomenon of flashover, which massively increases fire intensity & spread, occurs only when there is insufficient air.

The ideal thing is to provide lots of air containing water spray, and I saw a trials of such a system long ago with positive results.

Some of the fire brigades have started using massive industrial fans to
blow air into buildings to help them work inside them. Although it
seemed counter intuitive apparently it can work quite well.

That's what I saw tested eons ago. They were adding water spray into the airstream. The survivability results looked good.


NT

On Saturday, 15 September 2018 09:57:33 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
With the recent fuss about utility fires I was contemplating using 100mm
aluminium flexible duct rather than the usual plastic.

I'm not sure flexi aluminium is much smoother inside than plastic.

I'd prefer 4" waste pipe for any lengthy runs. Waste pipe also comes with rodding eyes :-)

If it's going through fire compartments then it should be steel with sprung fire-flaps with fusible links.

Owain

On 15/09/2018 10:17, NY wrote:

out. Do any ducts have a one-way filter to allow air out, without
letting air in, either to feed a fire or to let cold air into a warm
room if the drier door is left open?

They have a flap on the end. You buy the flap separately.

Bill

In message , John
Rumm writes
On 15/09/2018 09:45, Tim Lamb wrote:
With the recent fuss about utility fires I was contemplating using
100mm aluminium flexible duct rather than the usual plastic.
Lower air flow resistance, less likelihood of trapped fibres/fire
risk but... what about condensation issues?

You may get condensation in the duct - but that would be true for ali
or plastic. Having it routed so that it can drain will help.

Ha! Ha! First came the electrician closely followed by the boiler
installer. Next I put in the waste for the washing m/c. Then the water
softener man demonstrated how to do a 90 deg. bend using only 3
fittings. When I came to couple up the h/c for the shower, utility sink
and washbasin there was hardly any wall left available.

Routing the drier vent is going to be tortuous.

I must put up a photo and you can all have a laugh. Plumbers don't seem
to have much concern that PVC insulation is only good up to 70 deg.C

You can get some twin wall duct that is more resistant to condensation
- although that tends to be a combination of ali foil and plastic.

Not possible to arrange a fall with our tumble drier. Comes off the
bottom.

--
Tim Lamb

On 15/09/2018 20:17, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , John
Rumm writes
On 15/09/2018 09:45, Tim Lamb wrote:
With the recent fuss about utility fires I was contemplating using
100mmÂ* aluminium flexible duct rather than the usual plastic.
Â*Lower air flow resistance, less likelihood of trapped fibres/fire
riskÂ* but... what about condensation issues?

You may get condensation in the duct - but that would be true for ali
or plastic. Having it routed so that it can drain will help.

Ha! Ha! First came the electrician closely followed by the boiler
installer. NextÂ* I put in the waste for the washing m/c. Then the water
softener man demonstrated how to do a 90 deg. bend using only 3
fittings. When I came to couple up the h/c for the shower, utility sink
and washbasin there was hardly any wall left available.

Routing the drier vent is going to be tortuous.

Have you considered using a condensing TD?

I must put up a photo and you can all have a laugh. Plumbers don't seem
to have much concern that PVC insulation is only good up to 70 deg.C

You can get some twin wall duct that is more resistant to condensation
- although that tends to be a combination of ali foil and plastic.

Not possible to arrange a fall with our tumble drier. Comes off the bottom.

Well you can use:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MRLAD4.html

and if condensation is really a problem, then:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BGCT.html

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In message , John
Rumm writes
On 15/09/2018 20:17, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , John
Rumm writes
On 15/09/2018 09:45, Tim Lamb wrote:
With the recent fuss about utility fires I was contemplating using
100mm* aluminium flexible duct rather than the usual plastic.
*Lower air flow resistance, less likelihood of trapped fibres/fire
risk* but... what about condensation issues?

You may get condensation in the duct - but that would be true for
ali or plastic. Having it routed so that it can drain will help.
Ha! Ha! First came the electrician closely followed by the boiler
installer. Next* I put in the waste for the washing m/c. Then the
water softener man demonstrated how to do a 90 deg. bend using only 3
fittings. When I came to couple up the h/c for the shower, utility
sink and washbasin there was hardly any wall left available.
Routing the drier vent is going to be tortuous.

Have you considered using a condensing TD?

I must put up a photo and you can all have a laugh. Plumbers don't
seem to have much concern that PVC insulation is only good up to 70
deg.C

You can get some twin wall duct that is more resistant to
condensation - although that tends to be a combination of ali foil
and plastic.
Not possible to arrange a fall with our tumble drier. Comes off the
bottom.

Well you can use:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MRLAD4.html

I think I'll go with the Wickes offering and see if problems arise.

See Dropbox photo for access issues!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3l60h231do...%20plumbing%20
001.JPG?dl=0

and if condensation is really a problem, then:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BGCT.html

Not come across that. I wonder how many builders have?


--
Tim Lamb

"Jim K" wrote in message
o.uk...
Tim Lamb Wrote in message:
In message , John
Rumm writes
On 15/09/2018 20:17, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , John
Rumm writes
On 15/09/2018 09:45, Tim Lamb wrote:
With the recent fuss about utility fires I was contemplating using
100mm aluminium flexible duct rather than the usual plastic.
Lower air flow resistance, less likelihood of trapped fibres/fire
risk but... what about condensation issues?

You may get condensation in the duct - but that would be true for
ali or plastic. Having it routed so that it can drain will help.
Ha! Ha! First came the electrician closely followed by the boiler
installer. Next I put in the waste for the washing m/c. Then the
water softener man demonstrated how to do a 90 deg. bend using only 3
fittings. When I came to couple up the h/c for the shower, utility
sink and washbasin there was hardly any wall left available.
Routing the drier vent is going to be tortuous.

Have you considered using a condensing TD?

I must put up a photo and you can all have a laugh. Plumbers don't
seem to have much concern that PVC insulation is only good up to 70
deg.C

You can get some twin wall duct that is more resistant to
condensation - although that tends to be a combination of ali foil
and plastic.
Not possible to arrange a fall with our tumble drier. Comes off the
bottom.

Well you can use:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MRLAD4.html

I think I'll go with the Wickes offering and see if problems arise.

See Dropbox photo for access issues!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3l60h231do...%20plumbing%20
001.JPG?dl=0


Neat!

Nope, the RH copper pipe is an abortion and he should be publicly flogged
for such an utter obscenity if he hadn't enjoyed that so much the last time.

Tim Lamb Wrote in message:
In message , John
Rumm writes
On 15/09/2018 20:17, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , John
Rumm writes
On 15/09/2018 09:45, Tim Lamb wrote:
With the recent fuss about utility fires I was contemplating using
100mm aluminium flexible duct rather than the usual plastic.
Lower air flow resistance, less likelihood of trapped fibres/fire
risk but... what about condensation issues?

You may get condensation in the duct - but that would be true for
ali or plastic. Having it routed so that it can drain will help.
Ha! Ha! First came the electrician closely followed by the boiler
installer. Next I put in the waste for the washing m/c. Then the
water softener man demonstrated how to do a 90 deg. bend using only 3
fittings. When I came to couple up the h/c for the shower, utility
sink and washbasin there was hardly any wall left available.
Routing the drier vent is going to be tortuous.

Have you considered using a condensing TD?

I must put up a photo and you can all have a laugh. Plumbers don't
seem to have much concern that PVC insulation is only good up to 70
deg.C

You can get some twin wall duct that is more resistant to
condensation - although that tends to be a combination of ali foil
and plastic.
Not possible to arrange a fall with our tumble drier. Comes off the
bottom.

Well you can use:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MRLAD4.html

I think I'll go with the Wickes offering and see if problems arise.

See Dropbox photo for access issues!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3l60h231do...%20plumbing%20
001.JPG?dl=0


Neat!

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

In message , Tim Lamb
writes
In message , John
Rumm writes
On 15/09/2018 20:17, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , John
Rumm writes
On 15/09/2018 09:45, Tim Lamb wrote:
With the recent fuss about utility fires I was contemplating using
100mm* aluminium flexible duct rather than the usual plastic.
*Lower air flow resistance, less likelihood of trapped fibres/fire
risk* but... what about condensation issues?

You may get condensation in the duct - but that would be true for
ali or plastic. Having it routed so that it can drain will help.
Ha! Ha! First came the electrician closely followed by the boiler
installer. Next* I put in the waste for the washing m/c. Then the
water softener man demonstrated how to do a 90 deg. bend using only
3 fittings. When I came to couple up the h/c for the shower, utility
sink and washbasin there was hardly any wall left available.
Routing the drier vent is going to be tortuous.

Have you considered using a condensing TD?

I must put up a photo and you can all have a laugh. Plumbers don't
seem to have much concern that PVC insulation is only good up to 70


You can get some twin wall duct that is more resistant to
condensation - although that tends to be a combination of ali foil
and plastic.
Not possible to arrange a fall with our tumble drier. Comes off the
bottom.

Well you can use:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MRLAD4.html

I think I'll go with the Wickes offering and see if problems arise.

See Dropbox photo for access issues!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3l60h231do...%20plumbing%20
001.JPG?dl=0

and if condensation is really a problem, then:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BGCT.html

Not come across that. I wonder how many builders have?

Dogs breakfast? Tumble drier and washing m/c go to the right of the
water softener.

Big disappointment with the Screwfix pressure regulator. Basically, it
doesn't. Static pressure is around 5 bar. Even a small draw off drops
the indicated pressure to 1.5bar from the 3 set.

--
Tim Lamb

On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 19:56:17 +1000, cantankerous trolling senile geezer Rot
Speed blabbered, again:


See Dropbox photo for access issues!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3l60h231do...%20plumbing%20
001.JPG?dl=0


Neat!

Nope, the RH copper pipe is an abortion and he should be publicly flogged
for such an utter obscenity if he hadn't enjoyed that so much the last time.

You should be a hundred times flogged for being such a senile pest, you
senile cretin!

--
Richard addressing Rot Speed:
"**** you're thick/pathetic excuse for a troll."
MID:

On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 11:07:47 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:

snip

Big disappointment with the Screwfix pressure regulator. Basically, it
doesn't. Static pressure is around 5 bar. Even a small draw off drops
the indicated pressure to 1.5bar from the 3 set.

I wonder if the flow is sufficient to maintain the 3 though?

We have an electric mains pressure shower and the toilet next door. To
stop the toilet from dropping the pressure (and potentially
temperature) on the shower too much, I set the isolator valve on the
toilet to just fill the (split flush) cistern at a rate that was a
slow as acceptable between uses (say 5 mins).

A pressure regulator on the shower (or toilet or both?) might have
done the same thing, assuming the flow could maintain the minimum
pressure?

The pressure / flow here was always ok as we were at the beginning of
the run to the 7 houses in the terrace. Not so for those in No7
though, who would often be down to a trickle is everyone (then anyone)
else was using it.

When we had the bathroom / extension done we had a new main run in
directly and they re-fed the other 6 houses across our property with a
new plastic pipe to the boundary of No2. Some years later they ran a
new main to all 6 houses using a mole. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

In message , T i m
writes
On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 11:07:47 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:

snip

Big disappointment with the Screwfix pressure regulator. Basically, it
doesn't. Static pressure is around 5 bar. Even a small draw off drops
the indicated pressure to 1.5bar from the 3 set.

I wonder if the flow is sufficient to maintain the 3 though?

Well I did say small draw off:-)

This supply is a private connection to the 3" main. First 15m is 1"
alkathene, next 30m 32mm blue poly, uncertain what crosses the road but
say 25mm followed by the meter and 20m of 25mm.

All the valves are fully open less a 1/4 turn.

The reasons for fitting the valve were serious splashing from basin taps
anywhere near fully open and a concern about the life of all the flexi
tap connectors.

At the time I tried the initial pressure was good and unlikely to be
affected by other consumers: farmhouse, pony club and very distant
neighbours.

We have an electric mains pressure shower and the toilet next door. To
stop the toilet from dropping the pressure (and potentially
temperature) on the shower too much, I set the isolator valve on the
toilet to just fill the (split flush) cistern at a rate that was a
slow as acceptable between uses (say 5 mins).

A pressure regulator on the shower (or toilet or both?) might have
done the same thing, assuming the flow could maintain the minimum
pressure?

The pressure / flow here was always ok as we were at the beginning of
the run to the 7 houses in the terrace. Not so for those in No7
though, who would often be down to a trickle is everyone (then anyone)
else was using it.

When we had the bathroom / extension done we had a new main run in
directly and they re-fed the other 6 houses across our property with a
new plastic pipe to the boundary of No2. Some years later they ran a
new main to all 6 houses using a mole. ;-)

I'm hoping the barn development will force the water co. to upgrade.

--
Tim Lamb

On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 15:13:29 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:

In message , T i m
writes
On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 11:07:47 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:

snip

Big disappointment with the Screwfix pressure regulator. Basically, it
doesn't. Static pressure is around 5 bar. Even a small draw off drops
the indicated pressure to 1.5bar from the 3 set.

I wonder if the flow is sufficient to maintain the 3 though?

Well I did say small draw off:-)

You did, but that depends on how good (bad) the supply is. ;-)

This supply is a private connection to the 3" main. First 15m is 1"
alkathene, next 30m 32mm blue poly, uncertain what crosses the road but
say 25mm followed by the meter and 20m of 25mm.

All the valves are fully open less a 1/4 turn.

Understood.

The reasons for fitting the valve were serious splashing from basin taps
anywhere near fully open and a concern about the life of all the flexi
tap connectors.

Well, that confirms the chances are you have a pretty good flow as
well etc.

At the time I tried the initial pressure was good and unlikely to be
affected by other consumers: farmhouse, pony club and very distant
neighbours.

With those pipe sizes I agree. Unless you aren't also filling your
swimming pool. ;-)

snip

When we had the bathroom / extension done we had a new main run in
directly and they re-fed the other 6 houses across our property with a
new plastic pipe to the boundary of No2. Some years later they ran a
new main to all 6 houses using a mole. ;-)

I'm hoping the barn development will force the water co. to upgrade.

From what you said it sounds like they might.

Cheers, T i m

p.s. I'm guessing the handlebar controls for that powered wheel are
also now mixed with steel in China? I wanted to test it and whilst I'm
guessing the 3 pins on the jack plug might be live (probably 5V),
voltage back from a pot and ground, I didn't want to risk blowing the
controller up by guessing.

p.p.s. The PC had a day running DBAN and is now running a fresh
install of XP as my niece might enjoy some of the (XP only)
Edutainment CD's that our daughter did at her age. ;-)

T i m Wrote in message:
On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 15:13:29 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:

In message , T i m
writes
On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 11:07:47 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:

snip

Big disappointment with the Screwfix pressure regulator. Basically, it
doesn't. Static pressure is around 5 bar. Even a small draw off drops
the indicated pressure to 1.5bar from the 3 set.

I wonder if the flow is sufficient to maintain the 3 though?

Well I did say small draw off:-)

You did, but that depends on how good (bad) the supply is. ;-)

This supply is a private connection to the 3" main. First 15m is 1"
alkathene, next 30m 32mm blue poly, uncertain what crosses the road but
say 25mm followed by the meter and 20m of 25mm.

All the valves are fully open less a 1/4 turn.

Understood.

The reasons for fitting the valve were serious splashing from basin taps
anywhere near fully open and a concern about the life of all the flexi
tap connectors.

Well, that confirms the chances are you have a pretty good flow as
well etc.

At the time I tried the initial pressure was good and unlikely to be
affected by other consumers: farmhouse, pony club and very distant
neighbours.

With those pipe sizes I agree. Unless you aren't also filling your
swimming pool. ;-)

snip

When we had the bathroom / extension done we had a new main run in
directly and they re-fed the other 6 houses across our property with a
new plastic pipe to the boundary of No2. Some years later they ran a
new main to all 6 houses using a mole. ;-)

I'm hoping the barn development will force the water co. to upgrade.

From what you said it sounds like they might.

Cheers, T i m

p.s. I'm guessing the handlebar controls for that powered wheel are
also now mixed with steel in China? I wanted to test it and whilst I'm
guessing the 3 pins on the jack plug might be live (probably 5V),
voltage back from a pot and ground, I didn't want to risk blowing the
controller up by guessing.

p.p.s. The PC had a day running DBAN and is now running a fresh
install of XP as my niece might enjoy some of the (XP only)
Edutainment CD's that our daughter did at her age. ;-)


Er..... wtf?
--
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 19:51:12 +0100 (GMT+01:00), Jim K
wrote:

snip

p.s. I'm guessing the handlebar controls for that powered wheel are
also now mixed with steel in China? I wanted to test it and whilst I'm
guessing the 3 pins on the jack plug might be live (probably 5V),
voltage back from a pot and ground, I didn't want to risk blowing the
controller up by guessing.

p.p.s. The PC had a day running DBAN and is now running a fresh
install of XP as my niece might enjoy some of the (XP only)
Edutainment CD's that our daughter did at her age. ;-)


Er..... wtf?
--

Sorry mate, what bit are you confused by?

Cheers, T i m

In message , T i m
writes
On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 15:13:29 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:


p.s. I'm guessing the handlebar controls for that powered wheel are
also now mixed with steel in China? I wanted to test it and whilst I'm
guessing the 3 pins on the jack plug might be live (probably 5V),
voltage back from a pot and ground, I didn't want to risk blowing the
controller up by guessing.

Yes. Likely. Angela might recall the operation but nothing technical. I
never used it. Switch and variable speed so pot of some value.

p.p.s. The PC had a day running DBAN and is now running a fresh
install of XP as my niece might enjoy some of the (XP only)
Edutainment CD's that our daughter did at her age. ;-)

Excellent. It had a replacement power supply in the first month and some
extra memory towards the end.

--
Tim Lamb

On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 21:09:01 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:

In message , T i m
writes
On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 15:13:29 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:


p.s. I'm guessing the handlebar controls for that powered wheel are
also now mixed with steel in China? I wanted to test it and whilst I'm
guessing the 3 pins on the jack plug might be live (probably 5V),
voltage back from a pot and ground, I didn't want to risk blowing the
controller up by guessing.

Yes. Likely. Angela might recall the operation but nothing technical. I
never used it. Switch and variable speed so pot of some value.

As you say, I think there is an 'ignition key', an on off (or could be
fwd / rev?), a 'Max speed' pot and what looks like a thumb throttle?

https://www.tgamobility.co.uk/public...cea5ef4f-o.jpg


p.p.s. The PC had a day running DBAN and is now running a fresh
install of XP as my niece might enjoy some of the (XP only)
Edutainment CD's that our daughter did at her age. ;-)

Excellent. It had a replacement power supply

With twin fans.

in the first month and some
extra memory towards the end.

2G I think. XP runs pretty fast in that and would make a perfectly
good WP etc.

Well, I'm still using it every day for pretty well everything. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

T i m Wrote in message:
On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 19:51:12 +0100 (GMT+01:00), Jim K
wrote:

snip

p.s. I'm guessing the handlebar controls for that powered wheel are
also now mixed with steel in China? I wanted to test it and whilst I'm
guessing the 3 pins on the jack plug might be live (probably 5V),
voltage back from a pot and ground, I didn't want to risk blowing the
controller up by guessing.

p.p.s. The PC had a day running DBAN and is now running a fresh
install of XP as my niece might enjoy some of the (XP only)
Edutainment CD's that our daughter did at her age. ;-)


Er..... wtf?
--

Sorry mate, what bit are you confused by?

Cheers, T i m


The thread is titled tumble drier duct, your post reads like some
ham radio chat? (mate)
--
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

In message , Jim K
writes
T i m Wrote in message:
On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 19:51:12 +0100 (GMT+01:00), Jim K
wrote:

snip

p.s. I'm guessing the handlebar controls for that powered wheel are
also now mixed with steel in China? I wanted to test it and whilst I'm
guessing the 3 pins on the jack plug might be live (probably 5V),
voltage back from a pot and ground, I didn't want to risk blowing the
controller up by guessing.

p.p.s. The PC had a day running DBAN and is now running a fresh
install of XP as my niece might enjoy some of the (XP only)
Edutainment CD's that our daughter did at her age. ;-)


Er..... wtf?
--

Sorry mate, what bit are you confused by?

Cheers, T i m


The thread is titled tumble drier duct, your post reads like some
ham radio chat? (mate)

Normal d-i-y thread drift related to some hardware disposal:-)

Needs a fresh thread on motor assisted wheelchair recycling.

--
Tim Lamb

On Mon, 17 Sep 2018 08:53:22 +0100, Tim Lamb
wrote:

snip

Sorry mate, what bit are you confused by?

The thread is titled tumble drier duct, your post reads like some
ham radio chat? (mate)

Normal d-i-y thread drift related to some hardware disposal:-)

Quite ... and it was under a p.s. and obviously to you so I'm really
not sure what Jim found so confusing?

Needs a fresh thread on motor assisted wheelchair recycling.

I wonder how many on here (other than you now I) have any experience
of such?

Cheers, T i m (G7ICW) ;-)