I have a bedroom curtain rail that is affixed with solid wall fixings.
The wall is solid plaster but the fixings are pulling out and the rail
looks about to fall down.

I have been sucessful with this method in other rooms.

Anyway can someone tell me the easiest way to sort this out?

TIA.

--
insert witty sig here

On Friday, 11 May 2018 13:46:01 UTC+1, Mark wrote:
I have a bedroom curtain rail that is affixed with solid wall fixings.
The wall is solid plaster but the fixings are pulling out and the rail
looks about to fall down.

I have been sucessful with this method in other rooms.

Anyway can someone tell me the easiest way to sort this out?

TIA.

I don't think I've ever seen a solid plaster wall. There are a few possible causes.

1. Make sure your hole & plugs are deep enough. Opinion varies but certainly 1" plugs won't get you much strength.
2. If the wall has crumbled round the plug, use a deeper hole. Blow dust out, brush pva glue in, fill & let dry 3 days. Redrill & fix.
3. Someties the fixing just wasn't tight to begin with. Put plug in & hammer in matches until good & tight. Insert screw.

It'd help to tell us what the wall really is.


NT

brought next idea :
It'd help to tell us what the wall really is.

I think he is maybe hitting a concrete or steel lintel, just above the
window - hence the 'solid' comment, rather that 'solid plaster'.

It might be best to try to drill fixings above the lintel, if there is
space above, or work out whether it is steel or concrete and use an
appropriate drill bit. If steel, it would have to be drilled and tapped
with a thread and a machine screw used. If concrete it will be very
hard, so may need something like an SDS drill and bit to make an
impression.

If it really is just plaster, a good technique is to make a larger than
needed hole, fill with car body filler, then push a wall plug into that
and leave to set.

On Fri, 11 May 2018 14:29:57 +0100, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:

brought next idea :
It'd help to tell us what the wall really is.

I think he is maybe hitting a concrete or steel lintel, just above the
window - hence the 'solid' comment, rather that 'solid plaster'.

AFAIK it's just plaster there, where I drilled into. The 'solid'
comment refers to the fact it's not plasterboard with a cavity behind.
It was quite soft though and the drill went in easily. I'm sure there
is a lintel, but I don't know where exactly.

It might be best to try to drill fixings above the lintel, if there is
space above, or work out whether it is steel or concrete and use an
appropriate drill bit. If steel, it would have to be drilled and tapped
with a thread and a machine screw used. If concrete it will be very
hard, so may need something like an SDS drill and bit to make an
impression.

Probably not applicable.

If it really is just plaster, a good technique is to make a larger than
needed hole, fill with car body filler, then push a wall plug into that
and leave to set.

That sounds a good idea. I'll probably try this, thanks :-)

--
insert witty sig here

On Friday, 11 May 2018 15:13:55 UTC+1, Mark wrote:
On Fri, 11 May 2018 14:29:57 +0100, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:
tabbypurr brought next idea :

It'd help to tell us what the wall really is.

I think he is maybe hitting a concrete or steel lintel, just above the
window - hence the 'solid' comment, rather that 'solid plaster'.

AFAIK it's just plaster there, where I drilled into. The 'solid'
comment refers to the fact it's not plasterboard with a cavity behind.
It was quite soft though and the drill went in easily. I'm sure there
is a lintel, but I don't know where exactly.

It might be best to try to drill fixings above the lintel, if there is
space above, or work out whether it is steel or concrete and use an
appropriate drill bit. If steel, it would have to be drilled and tapped
with a thread and a machine screw used. If concrete it will be very
hard, so may need something like an SDS drill and bit to make an
impression.

Probably not applicable.

If it really is just plaster, a good technique is to make a larger than
needed hole, fill with car body filler, then push a wall plug into that
and leave to set.

That sounds a good idea. I'll probably try this, thanks :-)

In that case what you need is a deep hole, paint the hole with pva to toughen it some & fill with ordinary wall filler (not car body type), preferably with a little pva mixed into it. With a soft wall I'd look at maybe a 3" deep hole, 2 plugs in it one after the other, cutting the lip off the 1st one, and a suitably long screw. And of course give the filler enough time to dry.


NT

On 11/05/18 14:29, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
brought next idea :
It'd help to tell us what the wall really is.

I think he is maybe hitting a concrete or steel lintel, just above the
window - hence the 'solid' comment, rather that 'solid plaster'.

It might be best to try to drill fixings above the lintel, if there is
space above, or work out whether it is steel or concrete and use an
appropriate drill bit. If steel, it would have to be drilled and tapped
with a thread and a machine screw used. If concrete it will be very
hard, so may need something like an SDS drill and bit to make an
impression.

These are the best drill bits I have ever used to drill into lintels:
https://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/drilling/cat5920002#category=cat5920044

They deal with concrete and rebar without problem. They are far better
than ordinary TC bits, which don't seem to like hitting steel inside
concrete.

--

Jeff

Jeff Layman Wrote in message:
On 11/05/18 14:29, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
brought next idea :
It'd help to tell us what the wall really is.

I think he is maybe hitting a concrete or steel lintel, just above the
window - hence the 'solid' comment, rather that 'solid plaster'.

It might be best to try to drill fixings above the lintel, if there is
space above, or work out whether it is steel or concrete and use an
appropriate drill bit. If steel, it would have to be drilled and tapped
with a thread and a machine screw used. If concrete it will be very
hard, so may need something like an SDS drill and bit to make an
impression.

These are the best drill bits I have ever used to drill into lintels:
https://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/drilling/cat5920002#category=cat5920044

They deal with concrete and rebar without problem. They are far better
than ordinary TC bits, which don't seem to like hitting steel inside
concrete.


+1
My go-to choice for everything bigger than 4mm in anything (in a
house).

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

If there is no lintel at all, how does the top of the window not collapse?
Mine I think is wood as I've noticed it before, but where I needed to drill
was above it.
Brian

--
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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
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Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
news
brought next idea :
It'd help to tell us what the wall really is.

I think he is maybe hitting a concrete or steel lintel, just above the
window - hence the 'solid' comment, rather that 'solid plaster'.

It might be best to try to drill fixings above the lintel, if there is
space above, or work out whether it is steel or concrete and use an
appropriate drill bit. If steel, it would have to be drilled and tapped
with a thread and a machine screw used. If concrete it will be very hard,
so may need something like an SDS drill and bit to make an impression.

If it really is just plaster, a good technique is to make a larger than
needed hole, fill with car body filler, then push a wall plug into that
and leave to set.

On Friday, 11 May 2018 19:36:16 UTC+1, Brian Gaff wrote:
"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
news
brought next idea :
It'd help to tell us what the wall really is.

I think he is maybe hitting a concrete or steel lintel, just above the
window - hence the 'solid' comment, rather that 'solid plaster'.

It might be best to try to drill fixings above the lintel, if there is
space above, or work out whether it is steel or concrete and use an
appropriate drill bit. If steel, it would have to be drilled and tapped
with a thread and a machine screw used. If concrete it will be very hard,
so may need something like an SDS drill and bit to make an impression.

If it really is just plaster, a good technique is to make a larger than
needed hole, fill with car body filler, then push a wall plug into that
and leave to set.

If there is no lintel at all, how does the top of the window not collapse?
Mine I think is wood as I've noticed it before, but where I needed to drill
was above it.
Brian

they do generally stay up, I've seen such constructions at times. And I've seen them thinking about not staying up too.


NT

On Sat, 12 May 2018 05:36:12 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Friday, 11 May 2018 19:36:16 UTC+1, Brian Gaff wrote:
"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
news
brought next idea :
It'd help to tell us what the wall really is.

I think he is maybe hitting a concrete or steel lintel, just above the
window - hence the 'solid' comment, rather that 'solid plaster'.

It might be best to try to drill fixings above the lintel, if there is
space above, or work out whether it is steel or concrete and use an
appropriate drill bit. If steel, it would have to be drilled and tapped
with a thread and a machine screw used. If concrete it will be very hard,
so may need something like an SDS drill and bit to make an impression.

If it really is just plaster, a good technique is to make a larger than
needed hole, fill with car body filler, then push a wall plug into that
and leave to set.

If there is no lintel at all, how does the top of the window not collapse?
Mine I think is wood as I've noticed it before, but where I needed to drill
was above it.
Brian

they do generally stay up, I've seen such constructions at times. And I've seen them thinking about not staying up too.

In the older part of the house at least one window didn't have a
lintel and relied on the window frame. When we replaced the window we
had to have a lintel added.

--
insert witty sig here

On 11/05/18 14:29, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
brought next idea :
It'd help to tell us what the wall really is.

I think he is maybe hitting a concrete or steel lintel, just above the
window - hence the 'solid' comment, rather that 'solid plaster'.

If it's steel, it's probably only a Catnic style lintel and the steel is
about 2mm. Switch to an HSS bit, drill a hole and use a plug designed
for gripping in hollow substrates - or switch to a self tapper.

Concrete - it's SDS time


It might be best to try to drill fixings above the lintel, if there is
space above, or work out whether it is steel or concrete and use an
appropriate drill bit. If steel, it would have to be drilled and tapped
with a thread and a machine screw used. If concrete it will be very
hard, so may need something like an SDS drill and bit to make an
impression.

If it really is just plaster, a good technique is to make a larger than
needed hole, fill with car body filler, then push a wall plug into that
and leave to set.

Well if its an outer wall its probably mostly brick of some kind and if his
luck is like mine the places you decide to drill are either the hardest
brick known to man, or right into the join between them!

Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
wrote in message
...
On Friday, 11 May 2018 13:46:01 UTC+1, Mark wrote:
I have a bedroom curtain rail that is affixed with solid wall fixings.
The wall is solid plaster but the fixings are pulling out and the rail
looks about to fall down.

I have been sucessful with this method in other rooms.

Anyway can someone tell me the easiest way to sort this out?

TIA.

I don't think I've ever seen a solid plaster wall. There are a few
possible causes.

1. Make sure your hole & plugs are deep enough. Opinion varies but
certainly 1" plugs won't get you much strength.
2. If the wall has crumbled round the plug, use a deeper hole. Blow dust
out, brush pva glue in, fill & let dry 3 days. Redrill & fix.
3. Someties the fixing just wasn't tight to begin with. Put plug in &
hammer in matches until good & tight. Insert screw.

It'd help to tell us what the wall really is.


NT

On Fri, 11 May 2018 19:34:22 +0100, Brian Gaff wrote:

Well if its an outer wall its probably mostly brick of some kind and if his
luck is like mine the places you decide to drill are either the hardest
brick known to man, or right into the join between them!

Brian

BTDT! My lintels are concrete with pebbles. How the hell we got holes with a
Rawltool I just can't remember.
Nowadays it's the SDS. I tried the Bosch bits but it really needs a good
masonary bit and leaning on - not too much though, with a 6mm bit.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

Mark Wrote in message:
I have a bedroom curtain rail that is affixed with solid wall fixings.
The wall is solid plaster but the fixings are pulling out and the rail
looks about to fall down.

I have been sucessful with this method in other rooms.

Anyway can someone tell me the easiest way to sort this out?

TIA.

Deeper holes, multiple plugs, longer screws.

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 11/05/2018 18:23, Jim K wrote:
Mark Wrote in message:
I have a bedroom curtain rail that is affixed with solid wall fixings.
The wall is solid plaster but the fixings are pulling out and the rail
looks about to fall down.

I have been sucessful with this method in other rooms.

Anyway can someone tell me the easiest way to sort this out?

TIA.

Deeper holes, multiple plugs, longer screws.


Bit of wood, fix it, paint it, attach curtain rail, job done.

GB Wrote in message:
On 11/05/2018 18:23, Jim K wrote:
Mark Wrote in message:
I have a bedroom curtain rail that is affixed with solid wall fixings.
The wall is solid plaster but the fixings are pulling out and the rail
looks about to fall down.

I have been sucessful with this method in other rooms.

Anyway can someone tell me the easiest way to sort this out?

TIA.

Deeper holes, multiple plugs, longer screws.


Bit of wood, fix it, paint it, attach curtain rail, job done.

He said easiest not longest ;-)
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 11/05/2018 19:16, Jim K wrote:
GB Wrote in message:
On 11/05/2018 18:23, Jim K wrote:
Mark Wrote in message:
I have a bedroom curtain rail that is affixed with solid wall fixings.
The wall is solid plaster but the fixings are pulling out and the rail
looks about to fall down.

I have been sucessful with this method in other rooms.

Anyway can someone tell me the easiest way to sort this out?

TIA.

Deeper holes, multiple plugs, longer screws.


Bit of wood, fix it, paint it, attach curtain rail, job done.

He said easiest not longest ;-)

True, but I expect he doesn't want it to come down again.

GB Wrote in message:
On 11/05/2018 19:16, Jim K wrote:
GB Wrote in message:
On 11/05/2018 18:23, Jim K wrote:
Mark Wrote in message:
I have a bedroom curtain rail that is affixed with solid wall fixings.
The wall is solid plaster but the fixings are pulling out and the rail
looks about to fall down.

I have been sucessful with this method in other rooms.

Anyway can someone tell me the easiest way to sort this out?

TIA.

Deeper holes, multiple plugs, longer screws.


Bit of wood, fix it, paint it, attach curtain rail, job done.

He said easiest not longest ;-)

True, but I expect he doesn't want it to come down again.

Depends how he "fixes" your bit of wood to the flaky wall.. which
you didn't go into I note ... ;-)
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 11/05/2018 13:45, Mark wrote:
I have a bedroom curtain rail that is affixed with solid wall fixings.
The wall is solid plaster but the fixings are pulling out and the rail
looks about to fall down.

I have been sucessful with this method in other rooms.

Anyway can someone tell me the easiest way to sort this out?

TIA.

You really need to start by telling us the age of the property, and/or
more details about its construction, if you know that.

As others said, the wall will not be solid plaster but in a modern house
might be lightweight blockwork, which "feels" very similar.

If it is an old property made from random stone then you may be hitting
quite large spaces filled only with mortar (but if you have tried half a
dozen places you are likely to hit something solid at some point). I
suppose you might be unlucky and have everywhere hit the horizontal
mortar joint between brick or blockwork and a concrete, wood, or steel
lintel.

On really old properties, sometimes it is best to fit some sort of
batten first, then screw the curtain rail to that. The "batten" could be
timber, or on difficult walls you might use a length of 12 or 18 mm
plywood a few inches wide in the vertical direction. 18 mm if you are
trying to hang heavy curtains.

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On Fri, 11 May 2018 22:25:27 +0100, newshound
wrote:

On 11/05/2018 13:45, Mark wrote:
I have a bedroom curtain rail that is affixed with solid wall fixings.
The wall is solid plaster but the fixings are pulling out and the rail
looks about to fall down.

I have been sucessful with this method in other rooms.

Anyway can someone tell me the easiest way to sort this out?

TIA.

You really need to start by telling us the age of the property, and/or
more details about its construction, if you know that.

It's a modern extension, built about 10-15 years ago.

As others said, the wall will not be solid plaster but in a modern house
might be lightweight blockwork, which "feels" very similar.

It might be. All I really know that it's easy to drill into.


--
insert witty sig here

On 12/05/2018 07:18, Mark wrote:
On Fri, 11 May 2018 22:25:27 +0100, newshound
wrote:

On 11/05/2018 13:45, Mark wrote:
I have a bedroom curtain rail that is affixed with solid wall fixings.
The wall is solid plaster but the fixings are pulling out and the rail
looks about to fall down.

I have been sucessful with this method in other rooms.

Anyway can someone tell me the easiest way to sort this out?

TIA.

You really need to start by telling us the age of the property, and/or
more details about its construction, if you know that.

It's a modern extension, built about 10-15 years ago.

As others said, the wall will not be solid plaster but in a modern house
might be lightweight blockwork, which "feels" very similar.

It might be. All I really know that it's easy to drill into.


It will almost certainly be lightweight blocks, then. They are easy to
drill into, but to get a stronger fixing you need to have a large and
long enough plug, and make sure the plug fits well in the hole you have
drilled.

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On 12/05/18 11:47, newshound wrote:
It will almost certainly be lightweight blocks, then. They are easy to
drill into, but to get a stronger fixing you need to have a large and
long enough plug, and make sure the plug fits well in the hole you have
drilled.


For that type of block I default to Fischer everytime - they have such a
good range of plugs, and more to the point, they have extra long plugs
with anti turn ribs which are most useful in very soft blockwork.

On Saturday, 12 May 2018 07:18:10 UTC+1, Mark wrote:
On Fri, 11 May 2018 22:25:27 +0100, newshound
wrote:
On 11/05/2018 13:45, Mark wrote:

I have a bedroom curtain rail that is affixed with solid wall fixings.
The wall is solid plaster but the fixings are pulling out and the rail
looks about to fall down.

I have been sucessful with this method in other rooms.

Anyway can someone tell me the easiest way to sort this out?

TIA.

You really need to start by telling us the age of the property, and/or
more details about its construction, if you know that.

It's a modern extension, built about 10-15 years ago.

As others said, the wall will not be solid plaster but in a modern house
might be lightweight blockwork, which "feels" very similar.

It might be. All I really know that it's easy to drill into.

Ahh. You've got lightweight blocks. In which case you want fixings specifically designed for them.


NT

On Sat, 12 May 2018 05:38:33 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, 12 May 2018 07:18:10 UTC+1, Mark wrote:
On Fri, 11 May 2018 22:25:27 +0100, newshound
wrote:
On 11/05/2018 13:45, Mark wrote:

I have a bedroom curtain rail that is affixed with solid wall fixings.
The wall is solid plaster but the fixings are pulling out and the rail
looks about to fall down.

I have been sucessful with this method in other rooms.

Anyway can someone tell me the easiest way to sort this out?

TIA.

You really need to start by telling us the age of the property, and/or
more details about its construction, if you know that.

It's a modern extension, built about 10-15 years ago.

As others said, the wall will not be solid plaster but in a modern house
might be lightweight blockwork, which "feels" very similar.

It might be. All I really know that it's easy to drill into.

Ahh. You've got lightweight blocks. In which case you want fixings specifically designed for them.

OK. Great. Can you recommend any in particular? There seems to be
quite a lot of different fixings aimed at lightweight blocks.

--
insert witty sig here

On Saturday, 12 May 2018 13:52:11 UTC+1, Mark wrote:
On Sat, 12 May 2018 05:38:33 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 12 May 2018 07:18:10 UTC+1, Mark wrote:
On Fri, 11 May 2018 22:25:27 +0100, newshound
wrote:
On 11/05/2018 13:45, Mark wrote:

I have a bedroom curtain rail that is affixed with solid wall fixings.
The wall is solid plaster but the fixings are pulling out and the rail
looks about to fall down.

I have been sucessful with this method in other rooms.

Anyway can someone tell me the easiest way to sort this out?

TIA.

You really need to start by telling us the age of the property, and/or
more details about its construction, if you know that.

It's a modern extension, built about 10-15 years ago.

As others said, the wall will not be solid plaster but in a modern house
might be lightweight blockwork, which "feels" very similar.

It might be. All I really know that it's easy to drill into.

Ahh. You've got lightweight blocks. In which case you want fixings specifically designed for them.

OK. Great. Can you recommend any in particular? There seems to be
quite a lot of different fixings aimed at lightweight blocks.

No, maybe someone else can. It doesn't strike me as a demanding fixing situation though.


NT

On 12/05/2018 13:38, wrote:
Ahh. You've got lightweight blocks. In which case you want fixings specifically designed for them.

And will probably need large screws which might not be suitable for the
curtain track brackets. By far the best way is to put up a wooden batten
with good hefty screws into suitable sized plugs. This will also give
you the advantage of being able to fix the brackets where *you* want
them rather than having to dodge around mortar lines or cavities in the
blocks.

--
Mike Clarke

On 11/05/2018 13:45, Mark wrote:
I have a bedroom curtain rail that is affixed with solid wall fixings.
The wall is solid plaster but the fixings are pulling out and the rail
looks about to fall down.

I have been sucessful with this method in other rooms.

Anyway can someone tell me the easiest way to sort this out?

TIA.


I had a similar problem. Blow the dust out of the hole, maybe enlarge
it if necessary, fill with hot-melt adhesive from your glue gun, push in
a plastic plug, hold it for a few seconds to set, place your fingers in
iced water to ease the pain, then re-assemble.

It worked very well, was very quick to do, and mine are heavy curtains
with a 4" long cantilever supports. Not the neatest method, agreed.

Cheers
--
Clive

On Saturday, May 12, 2018 at 10:45:19 AM UTC+1, Clive Arthur wrote:
On 11/05/2018 13:45, Mark wrote:
I have a bedroom curtain rail that is affixed with solid wall fixings.
The wall is solid plaster but the fixings are pulling out and the rail
looks about to fall down.

I have been sucessful with this method in other rooms.

Anyway can someone tell me the easiest way to sort this out?

TIA.


I had a similar problem. Blow the dust out of the hole, maybe enlarge
it if necessary, fill with hot-melt adhesive from your glue gun, push in
a plastic plug, hold it for a few seconds to set, place your fingers in
iced water to ease the pain, then re-assemble.

It worked very well, was very quick to do, and mine are heavy curtains
with a 4" long cantilever supports. Not the neatest method, agreed.

Cheers
--
Clive

Most of these workarounds are unnecessary with an sds drill

On 12/05/2018 11:31, stuart noble wrote:
On Saturday, May 12, 2018 at 10:45:19 AM UTC+1, Clive Arthur wrote:
On 11/05/2018 13:45, Mark wrote:
I have a bedroom curtain rail that is affixed with solid wall fixings.
The wall is solid plaster but the fixings are pulling out and the rail
looks about to fall down.

I have been sucessful with this method in other rooms.

Anyway can someone tell me the easiest way to sort this out?

TIA.


I had a similar problem. Blow the dust out of the hole, maybe enlarge
it if necessary, fill with hot-melt adhesive from your glue gun, push in
a plastic plug, hold it for a few seconds to set, place your fingers in
iced water to ease the pain, then re-assemble.

It worked very well, was very quick to do, and mine are heavy curtains
with a 4" long cantilever supports. Not the neatest method, agreed.

Cheers
--
Clive

Most of these workarounds are unnecessary with an sds drill

If it's light weight blocks, that is the last thing you should be
drilling with.

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newshound expressed precisely :
If it's light weight blocks, that is the last thing you should be drilling
with.

I agree, a normal hammer drill and used very gently, so as to not make
the hole diameter larger than necessary.

On Saturday, 12 May 2018 17:57:18 UTC+1, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
newshound expressed precisely :

If it's light weight blocks, that is the last thing you should be drilling
with.

I agree, a normal hammer drill and used very gently, so as to not make
the hole diameter larger than necessary.

ya don't need a hammer drill. Any type of drill that takes any type of suitably sized bit can manage plaster & lightweight block no problem. Even a screwdriver could do it.


NT