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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Lucas control box problem?
The Morris again. Just to recap, 1968, now -ve earth but still dynamo, control box etc. Suddenly started to flatten the battery whilst parked, but charges when running. Restarting a couple of hours after a good run, no problem. 24 hours after a run, battery sluggish but will just about turn over engine. 48 hours after a good run, starting by handle only. I have convinced myself the problem is the Lucas control box, which is almost certainly original. This is a Minor, so there is nothing to be left on when the car is not running, other than lights, which I have checked, ditto interior light. About the only other electrical accessories are indicators, wipers and simple on/off heater blower, but they are wired through the ignition. No radio, heated rear screen or anything like that. Given that control boxes are around twenty quid, I'm tempted to just replace the old one and see if that fixes the problem, but have I missed anything obvious? -- Graeme |
#2
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Lucas control box problem?
Graeme wrote:
The Morris again. Just to recap, 1968, now -ve earth but still dynamo, control box etc. Suddenly started to flatten the battery whilst parked, but charges when running. Restarting a couple of hours after a good run, no problem. 24 hours after a run, battery sluggish but will just about turn over engine. 48 hours after a good run, starting by handle only. I have convinced myself the problem is the Lucas control box, which is almost certainly original. This is a Minor, so there is nothing to be left on when the car is not running, other than lights, which I have checked, ditto interior light. About the only other electrical accessories are indicators, wipers and simple on/off heater blower, but they are wired through the ignition. No radio, heated rear screen or anything like that. Given that control boxes are around twenty quid, I'm tempted to just replace the old one and see if that fixes the problem, but have I missed anything obvious? May just be a dud battery. Have you checked for parasitic current drain with the ignition off? Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#3
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Lucas control box problem?
On 01/05/2018 10:25, Graeme wrote:
The Morris again.* Just to recap, 1968, now -ve earth but still dynamo, control box etc. Suddenly started to flatten the battery whilst parked, but charges when running.* Restarting a couple of hours after a good run, no problem.* 24 hours after a run, battery sluggish but will just about turn over engine.* 48 hours after a good run, starting by handle only. I have convinced myself the problem is the Lucas control box, which is almost certainly original.* This is a Minor, so there is nothing to be left on when the car is not running, other than lights, which I have checked, ditto interior light.* About the only other electrical accessories are indicators, wipers and simple on/off heater blower, but they are wired through the ignition.* No radio, heated rear screen or anything like that. Given that control boxes are around twenty quid, I'm tempted to just replace the old one and see if that fixes the problem, but have I missed anything obvious? With apologies in advance if the question's insulting, have you measured the current drawn from the battery to check that that is the definitely the problem (as opposed to a knackered battery)? -- Robin reply-to address is (intended to be) valid |
#4
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Lucas control box problem?
In article ,
Graeme wrote: The Morris again. Just to recap, 1968, now -ve earth but still dynamo, control box etc. Suddenly started to flatten the battery whilst parked, but charges when running. Restarting a couple of hours after a good run, no problem. 24 hours after a run, battery sluggish but will just about turn over engine. 48 hours after a good run, starting by handle only. I have convinced myself the problem is the Lucas control box, which is almost certainly original. This is a Minor, so there is nothing to be left on when the car is not running, other than lights, which I have checked, ditto interior light. About the only other electrical accessories are indicators, wipers and simple on/off heater blower, but they are wired through the ignition. No radio, heated rear screen or anything like that. Given that control boxes are around twenty quid, I'm tempted to just replace the old one and see if that fixes the problem, but have I missed anything obvious? IIRC, there are contacts inside the control box (a relay) which isolate the battery from the dynamo when it isn't charging. With no fan belt on the car, and charge in the battery, if you make those contacts by hand, the dynamo will motor. And I have seen them welded closed. That would draw considerable current and flatten the battery very quickly. BTW, closing those contacts by hand was a quick and dirty way of polarizing a new dynamo, or re-polarizing one after changing the ground polarity. But I'd not claim to be an expert on those control boxes - not had one for a very long time indeed. Perhaps 40 years, so likely forgotten what I once knew - if I indeed did. ;-) -- *Black holes are where God divided by zero * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#5
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Lucas control box problem?
On 01/05/2018 10:52, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Graeme wrote: The Morris again. Just to recap, 1968, now -ve earth but still dynamo, control box etc. Suddenly started to flatten the battery whilst parked, but charges when running. Restarting a couple of hours after a good run, no problem. 24 hours after a run, battery sluggish but will just about turn over engine. 48 hours after a good run, starting by handle only. I have convinced myself the problem is the Lucas control box, which is almost certainly original. This is a Minor, so there is nothing to be left on when the car is not running, other than lights, which I have checked, ditto interior light. About the only other electrical accessories are indicators, wipers and simple on/off heater blower, but they are wired through the ignition. No radio, heated rear screen or anything like that. Given that control boxes are around twenty quid, I'm tempted to just replace the old one and see if that fixes the problem, but have I missed anything obvious? IIRC, there are contacts inside the control box (a relay) which isolate the battery from the dynamo when it isn't charging. With no fan belt on the car, and charge in the battery, if you make those contacts by hand, the dynamo will motor. And I have seen them welded closed. That would draw considerable current and flatten the battery very quickly. BTW, closing those contacts by hand was a quick and dirty way of polarizing a new dynamo, or re-polarizing one after changing the ground polarity. But I'd not claim to be an expert on those control boxes - not had one for a very long time indeed. Perhaps 40 years, so likely forgotten what I once knew - if I indeed did. ;-) 47 years in my case; but I still recall the un-joy of trying to clean and then adjust the contacts. -- Robin reply-to address is (intended to be) valid |
#6
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Lucas control box problem?
On 01/05/18 11:12, Robin wrote:
On 01/05/2018 10:52, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , *** Graeme wrote: The Morris again.* Just to recap, 1968, now -ve earth but still dynamo, control box etc. Suddenly started to flatten the battery whilst parked, but charges when running.* Restarting a couple of hours after a good run, no problem.* 24 hours after a run, battery sluggish but will just about turn over engine.* 48 hours after a good run, starting by handle only. I have convinced myself the problem is the Lucas control box, which is almost certainly original.* This is a Minor, so there is nothing to be left on when the car is not running, other than lights, which I have checked, ditto interior light.* About the only other electrical accessories are indicators, wipers and simple on/off heater blower, but they are wired through the ignition.* No radio, heated rear screen or anything like that. Given that control boxes are around twenty quid, I'm tempted to just replace the old one and see if that fixes the problem, but have I missed anything obvious? IIRC, there are contacts inside the control box (a relay) which isolate the battery from the dynamo when it isn't charging. With no fan belt on the car, and charge in the battery, if you make those contacts by hand, the dynamo will motor. And I have seen them welded closed. That would draw considerable current and flatten the battery very quickly. BTW, closing those contacts by hand was a quick and dirty way of polarizing a new dynamo, or re-polarizing one after changing the ground polarity. But I'd not claim to be an expert on those control boxes - not had one for a very long time indeed. Perhaps 40 years, so likely forgotten what I once knew* - if I indeed did. ;-) 47 years in my case; but I still recall the un-joy of trying to clean and then adjust the contacts. You needed a decent meter to do that. -- To ban Christmas, simply give turkeys the vote. |
#7
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Lucas control box problem?
On 01/05/2018 10:52, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Graeme wrote: The Morris again. Just to recap, 1968, now -ve earth but still dynamo, control box etc. Suddenly started to flatten the battery whilst parked, but charges when running. Restarting a couple of hours after a good run, no problem. 24 hours after a run, battery sluggish but will just about turn over engine. 48 hours after a good run, starting by handle only. I have convinced myself the problem is the Lucas control box, which is almost certainly original. This is a Minor, so there is nothing to be left on when the car is not running, other than lights, which I have checked, ditto interior light. About the only other electrical accessories are indicators, wipers and simple on/off heater blower, but they are wired through the ignition. No radio, heated rear screen or anything like that. Given that control boxes are around twenty quid, I'm tempted to just replace the old one and see if that fixes the problem, but have I missed anything obvious? IIRC, there are contacts inside the control box (a relay) which isolate the battery from the dynamo when it isn't charging. With no fan belt on the car, and charge in the battery, if you make those contacts by hand, the dynamo will motor. And I have seen them welded closed. That would draw considerable current and flatten the battery very quickly. BTW, closing those contacts by hand was a quick and dirty way of polarizing a new dynamo, or re-polarizing one after changing the ground polarity. But I'd not claim to be an expert on those control boxes - not had one for a very long time indeed. Perhaps 40 years, so likely forgotten what I once knew - if I indeed did. ;-) Correct, the boxes are normally openable IIRC (they might be riveted closed) and the contacts are fairly obvious. So easy enough to check before buying a new one. I'm sure there will be drawings on the web. |
#8
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Lucas control box problem?
On 01/05/18 10:25, Graeme wrote:
The Morris again.* Just to recap, 1968, now -ve earth but still dynamo, control box etc. Suddenly started to flatten the battery whilst parked, but charges when running.* Restarting a couple of hours after a good run, no problem.* 24 hours after a run, battery sluggish but will just about turn over engine.* 48 hours after a good run, starting by handle only. I have convinced myself the problem is the Lucas control box, which is almost certainly original.* This is a Minor, so there is nothing to be left on when the car is not running, other than lights, which I have checked, ditto interior light.* About the only other electrical accessories are indicators, wipers and simple on/off heater blower, but they are wired through the ignition.* No radio, heated rear screen or anything like that. Given that control boxes are around twenty quid, I'm tempted to just replace the old one and see if that fixes the problem, but have I missed anything obvious? It sounds like you are drawing about half an amp. I would definitely put an ammeter in the +ve battery circuit with everything 'off' and see. half an amp is less than I would expect a faulty control box to draw. I think you should start tracing where that current is going before spending money. This sounds to me almost like an interior light or similar. Check what is across the battery that is OUTSIDE of the ignition switch - typically the headlights and other lights are and courtesy lights and maybe glove vompatment lights. It isn't the ignition switch as te coil draws about 6-12A!!! and will flatten a battery in a few hours. I cant see that it can be the control box - if the overcurrent relay sticks closed, then frankly the battery will be flat in seconds of smoke as the dynamo will be a dead short across it. -- "It is an established fact to 97% confidence limits that left wing conspirators see right wing conspiracies everywhere" |
#9
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Lucas control box problem?
In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes I would definitely put an ammeter in the +ve battery circuit with everything 'off' and see. OK, sounds sensible. I do have ammeter and volt meter, standard car 2 inch jobs, although neither are fitted to the car. I haven't done any formal testing as yet, but am trying to be logical. When parked, I can see that the lights, including interior light, are off. No boot light or anything like that, yet I agree, it sounds just like an interior light fault. Strangely, the courtesy lights were not working until a week or so ago, when I flooded the door switches with contact cleaner, and now both work, but, if one or both was shorting, the interior light wouldn't come on with the doors open, but it does? With the doors closed, the interior light works using the interior on/off switch, which I wouldn't expect it to do, if the courtesy light switches were shorting. Getting at the rear of the door pillar switches is a bit of a nightmare. The battery is fairly new (couple of years) and gets little use. Removed from car over winter, and trickle charged occasionally, during the winter. Dynamo must be working, as the battery is fully charged after a run. -- Graeme |
#10
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Lucas control box problem?
Graeme wrote:
In message , The Natural Philosopher writes I would definitely put an ammeter in the +ve battery circuit with everything 'off' and see. OK, sounds sensible. I do have ammeter and volt meter, standard car 2 inch jobs, although neither are fitted to the car. I haven't done any formal testing as yet, but am trying to be logical. When parked, I can see that the lights, including interior light, are off. No boot light or anything like that, yet I agree, it sounds just like an interior light fault. Strangely, the courtesy lights were not working until a week or so ago, Hmm, battery suddenly losing charge. Courtesy lights were not working until a week ago... Seems to me your fault isnt too far away... Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#11
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Lucas control box problem?
In message
, Tim+ writes Hmm, battery suddenly losing charge. Courtesy lights were not working until a week ago... Seems to me your fault isnt too far away... I agree. I'm going to follow the suggestion of putting the ammeter between battery -ve and chassis, with everything off, and look for a reading. Assuming there is one, I'll then disconnect the interior light at the fuse box, and see what happens. -- Graeme |
#12
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Lucas control box problem?
On Tuesday, 1 May 2018 12:46:53 UTC+1, Graeme wrote:
In message , Tim+ writes Hmm, battery suddenly losing charge. Courtesy lights were not working until a week ago... Seems to me your fault isnt too far away... I agree. I'm going to follow the suggestion of putting the ammeter between battery -ve and chassis, with everything off, and look for a reading. Assuming there is one, I'll then disconnect the interior light at the fuse box, and see what happens. Luxury! My last history piece had a twin fuseholder, but they weren't connected. NT |
#13
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Lucas control box problem?
In article ,
Graeme wrote: OK, sounds sensible. I do have ammeter and volt meter, standard car 2 inch jobs, although neither are fitted to the car. I'd get myself a DVM. That will measure low current accurately. Unlike a 30-0-30 ammeter. A decent automotive one is worth the extra. Will include a dwell meter for instant checking of the points gap without dismantling, and an RPM function too. -- *Two wrongs are only the beginning * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#14
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Lucas control box problem?
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes In article , Graeme wrote: OK, sounds sensible. I do have ammeter and volt meter, standard car 2 inch jobs, although neither are fitted to the car. I'd get myself a DVM. That will measure low current accurately. Unlike a 30-0-30 ammeter. Not a bad idea. Thanks. In the meantime, other stuff has arisen but I've been for a 20 mile run and disconnected the feed to the interior light. Will be interesting to see how well charged the battery is, 24 hours later. -- Graeme |
#15
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Lucas control box problem?
In article ,
Graeme wrote: In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes In article , Graeme wrote: OK, sounds sensible. I do have ammeter and volt meter, standard car 2 inch jobs, although neither are fitted to the car. I'd get myself a DVM. That will measure low current accurately. Unlike a 30-0-30 ammeter. Not a bad idea. Thanks. In the meantime, other stuff has arisen but I've been for a 20 mile run and disconnected the feed to the interior light. Will be interesting to see how well charged the battery is, 24 hours later. Incidentally, worth keeping an eye out for the Haynes manual on auto electrics at autojumbles, etc. Far far better than the normal car manuals. Mine does cover dynamos and control boxes. -- *Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#16
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Lucas control box problem?
Graeme wrote:
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes In article , Graeme wrote: OK, sounds sensible. I do have ammeter and volt meter, standard car 2 inch jobs, although neither are fitted to the car. I'd get myself a DVM. That will measure low current accurately. Unlike a 30-0-30 ammeter. Not a bad idea. Thanks. In the meantime, other stuff has arisen but I've been for a 20 mile run and disconnected the feed to the interior light. Will be interesting to see how well charged the battery is, 24 hours later. Why not just disconnect the battery for a couple of days? Thatll soon reveal whether its a battery fault or something draining the battery. Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#17
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Lucas control box problem?
On 01/05/2018 16:29, Graeme wrote:
In the meantime, other stuff has arisen but I've been for a 20 mile run and disconnected the feed to the interior light.* Will be interesting to see how well charged the battery is, 24 hours later. Be interesting to see how well charged you are. You do mean a run don't you? Bill |
#18
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Lucas control box problem?
Graeme wrote :
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes In article , Graeme wrote: OK, sounds sensible. I do have ammeter and volt meter, standard car 2 inch jobs, although neither are fitted to the car. I'd get myself a DVM. That will measure low current accurately. Unlike a 30-0-30 ammeter. Not a bad idea. Thanks. In the meantime, other stuff has arisen but I've been for a 20 mile run and disconnected the feed to the interior light. Will be interesting to see how well charged the battery is, 24 hours later. A very low wattage 12v bulb, such as a 2.2watt warning light bulb, can be connected between the battery and a removed battery cable (in series) to show any discharge when parked. If it lights, something is trying to draw current. |
#19
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Lucas control box problem?
Graeme wrote on 01/05/2018 :
Getting at the rear of the door pillar switches is a bit of a nightmare. They usually can be pulled out via the face. |
#20
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Lucas control box problem?
In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote: I cant see that it can be the control box - if the overcurrent relay sticks closed, then frankly the battery will be flat in seconds of smoke as the dynamo will be a dead short across it. There are two and three 'bobbin' regulators used. Only the 3 bobbin one includes reasonably accurate current limiting. The MMs I knew had two bobbin types. Three being used on more expensive cars. -- *Thank you. We're all refreshed and challenged by your unique point of view Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#21
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Lucas control box problem?
?Aren't door pillar switches often a push fit and easily pulled out for chacking? |
#22
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Lucas control box problem?
In message 2,
DerbyBorn writes ?Aren't door pillar switches often a push fit and easily pulled out for chacking? These are a huge cross head screw, notoriously difficult to undo, 50 years later. -- Graeme |
#23
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Lucas control box problem?
On 01/05/2018 17:35, Graeme wrote:
These are a huge cross head screw, notoriously difficult to undo, 50 years later. Angle grinder Bill |
#24
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Lucas control box problem?
is this the point where somebody wheels out the old joke about the girl
running for a buss? Brian -- ----- - This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from... The Sofa of Brian Gaff... Blind user, so no pictures please! "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... In article , The Natural Philosopher wrote: I cant see that it can be the control box - if the overcurrent relay sticks closed, then frankly the battery will be flat in seconds of smoke as the dynamo will be a dead short across it. There are two and three 'bobbin' regulators used. Only the 3 bobbin one includes reasonably accurate current limiting. The MMs I knew had two bobbin types. Three being used on more expensive cars. -- *Thank you. We're all refreshed and challenged by your unique point of view Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#25
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Lucas control box problem?
On 01/05/2018 11:15, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 01/05/18 10:25, Graeme wrote: The Morris again.* Just to recap, 1968, now -ve earth but still dynamo, control box etc. Suddenly started to flatten the battery whilst parked, but charges when running.* Restarting a couple of hours after a good run, no problem.* 24 hours after a run, battery sluggish but will just about turn over engine.* 48 hours after a good run, starting by handle only. I have convinced myself the problem is the Lucas control box, which is almost certainly original.* This is a Minor, so there is nothing to be left on when the car is not running, other than lights, which I have checked, ditto interior light.* About the only other electrical accessories are indicators, wipers and simple on/off heater blower, but they are wired through the ignition.* No radio, heated rear screen or anything like that. Given that control boxes are around twenty quid, I'm tempted to just replace the old one and see if that fixes the problem, but have I missed anything obvious? It sounds like you are drawing about half an amp. I would definitely put an ammeter in the +ve battery circuit with everything 'off' and see. half an amp is less than I would expect a faulty control box to draw. I think you should start tracing where that current is going before spending money. This sounds to me almost like an interior light or similar. Check what is across the battery that is OUTSIDE of the ignition switch - typically the headlights and other lights are and courtesy lights and maybe glove vompatment lights. It isn't the ignition switch as te coil draws about 6-12A!!! and will flatten a battery in a few hours. I cant see that it can be the control box - if the overcurrent relay sticks closed, then frankly the battery will be flat in seconds of smoke as the dynamo will be a dead short across it. +1. A mate of mine had a similar problem once, it turned out to be that the radio was drawing power even when switched off (and the light went out properly). |
#26
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Lucas control box problem?
In article ,
newshound wrote: +1. A mate of mine had a similar problem once, it turned out to be that the radio was drawing power even when switched off (and the light went out properly). Not unusual for a radio to draw some current when switched off. Station memory, etc. You need to check how much current is being drawn from the battery with everything off. On a basic Morris Minor, probably zero is correct. But on most modern cars something like 40mA or so is normal. -- *This message has been ROT-13 encrypted twice for extra security * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#27
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Lucas control box problem?
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes You need to check how much current is being drawn from the battery with everything off. On a basic Morris Minor, probably zero is correct. But on most modern cars something like 40mA or so is normal. No radio fitted and yes, the current draw should be zero with everything off. Car untouched since a 20+ mile run on Tuesday afternoon, when I disconnected the interior light, so I'll try the starter later this morning. With a little luck, battery will still be fully charged, having convinced myself that current is leaking through one (or both) of the courtesy light switches. -- Graeme |
#28
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Lucas control box problem?
In article ,
Graeme wrote: In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes You need to check how much current is being drawn from the battery with everything off. On a basic Morris Minor, probably zero is correct. But on most modern cars something like 40mA or so is normal. No radio fitted and yes, the current draw should be zero with everything off. Car untouched since a 20+ mile run on Tuesday afternoon, when I disconnected the interior light, so I'll try the starter later this morning. With a little luck, battery will still be fully charged, having convinced myself that current is leaking through one (or both) of the courtesy light switches. Those switches tend to be a pretty basic design with widely spaced contacts when open. If they are reasonably clean, I'd be surprised if they could 'leak'. But no point in guessing. A decent DVM will measure any quiescent current flow accurately. BTW, one of those battery disconnect devices is very useful when working on car electrics. It fits between a battery post and cable (normally in the ground lead), so easy to fit. Has a wheel you unscrew by hand to disconnect the battery. Also makes measuring that current easy. -- *If they arrest the Energizer Bunny, would they charge it with battery? * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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