Hi,
I recently put a few flat panel LED arrays in a shed and garage.
The same units that I used in the house on a few low ceilings. Flat
LED panels around 12 to 48W.

The shed units were on even when the switches were off, not too
bright, but initially I thought that the manufacturer had used a
phosphorescent chemical in the array.

Turning the CU off demonstrated the flaw in this reasoning.

The direct lights are a minor irritation, but the two exterior
floodlights are a pain in the neck as they are fed via a switch with a
2 wire timer across it, for a delayed escape.

I believe the capacitive coupling is causing the internal lights to
"glow" and this is tolerable, but the external units are obviously
being powered via the residual off current of the two wire time
switch.

I thought an incandescent 100W light across these to light an
additional "black hole" might provide a "sink" for the current, but
despite having cut the "off" luminocity down considerably, the
Floodlights are still too bright.

I have some 240V relays on order, but does anyone know of a neater,
quicker fix?

Currently I have two 50W LED lamps and a 100W incandescent all in
parallel, fed by a single pole switch with a two wire timer across the
contacts.

The relay will be easy to fit electrically, but will need an
additional JB, or similar for mounting, and it will be a pain sticking
this on the side of the shed door.



Regards

AB

On 10/04/2018 05:34, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
Hi,
I recently put a few flat panel LED arrays in a shed and garage.
The same units that I used in the house on a few low ceilings. Flat
LED panels around 12 to 48W.

The shed units were on even when the switches were off, not too
bright, but initially I thought that the manufacturer had used a
phosphorescent chemical in the array.

Turning the CU off demonstrated the flaw in this reasoning.

The direct lights are a minor irritation, but the two exterior
floodlights are a pain in the neck as they are fed via a switch with a
2 wire timer across it, for a delayed escape.

I believe the capacitive coupling is causing the internal lights to
"glow" and this is tolerable, but the external units are obviously
being powered via the residual off current of the two wire time
switch.

I thought an incandescent 100W light across these to light an
additional "black hole" might provide a "sink" for the current, but
despite having cut the "off" luminocity down considerably, the
Floodlights are still too bright.

I have some 240V relays on order, but does anyone know of a neater,
quicker fix?

Currently I have two 50W LED lamps and a 100W incandescent all in
parallel, fed by a single pole switch with a two wire timer across the
contacts.

The relay will be easy to fit electrically, but will need an
additional JB, or similar for mounting, and it will be a pain sticking
this on the side of the shed door.

No chance of getting a neutral to the two wire timer so that you could
swap it for one that properly switches off the switched live?


--
Adam

On Tuesday, 10 April 2018 05:34:23 UTC+1, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
Hi,
I recently put a few flat panel LED arrays in a shed and garage.
The same units that I used in the house on a few low ceilings. Flat
LED panels around 12 to 48W.

The shed units were on even when the switches were off, not too
bright, but initially I thought that the manufacturer had used a
phosphorescent chemical in the array.

Turning the CU off demonstrated the flaw in this reasoning.

The direct lights are a minor irritation, but the two exterior
floodlights are a pain in the neck as they are fed via a switch with a
2 wire timer across it, for a delayed escape.

I believe the capacitive coupling is causing the internal lights to
"glow" and this is tolerable, but the external units are obviously
being powered via the residual off current of the two wire time
switch.

I thought an incandescent 100W light across these to light an
additional "black hole" might provide a "sink" for the current, but
despite having cut the "off" luminocity down considerably, the
Floodlights are still too bright.

I have some 240V relays on order, but does anyone know of a neater,
quicker fix?

Currently I have two 50W LED lamps and a 100W incandescent all in
parallel, fed by a single pole switch with a two wire timer across the
contacts.

The relay will be easy to fit electrically, but will need an
additional JB, or similar for mounting, and it will be a pain sticking
this on the side of the shed door.



Regards

AB

A mains rated capacitor across the LEDs would help. I'd add a little series R with it to avoid damaging switching currents.

Or the relay. The PIR/timer/etc only runs the relay coil then, the LEDs being switched by the contacts.


NT

On Tue, 10 Apr 2018 09:27:30 +0100, ARW
wrote:

On 10/04/2018 05:34, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
Hi,
I recently put a few flat panel LED arrays in a shed and garage.
The same units that I used in the house on a few low ceilings. Flat
LED panels around 12 to 48W.

The shed units were on even when the switches were off, not too
bright, but initially I thought that the manufacturer had used a
phosphorescent chemical in the array.

Turning the CU off demonstrated the flaw in this reasoning.

The direct lights are a minor irritation, but the two exterior
floodlights are a pain in the neck as they are fed via a switch with a
2 wire timer across it, for a delayed escape.

I believe the capacitive coupling is causing the internal lights to
"glow" and this is tolerable, but the external units are obviously
being powered via the residual off current of the two wire time
switch.

I thought an incandescent 100W light across these to light an
additional "black hole" might provide a "sink" for the current, but
despite having cut the "off" luminocity down considerably, the
Floodlights are still too bright.

I have some 240V relays on order, but does anyone know of a neater,
quicker fix?

Currently I have two 50W LED lamps and a 100W incandescent all in
parallel, fed by a single pole switch with a two wire timer across the
contacts.

The relay will be easy to fit electrically, but will need an
additional JB, or similar for mounting, and it will be a pain sticking
this on the side of the shed door.

No chance of getting a neutral to the two wire timer so that you could
swap it for one that properly switches off the switched live?

Thanks, I could use one I suppose, but the two wire wasn't too cheap
and I don't really have another application for it.

Best approach is a pattress and blanking cover with the 240V relay
inside when it arrives. A blob of hot melt should stop it rattling
during earthquakes.


AB

On Tue, 10 Apr 2018 02:32:13 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Tuesday, 10 April 2018 05:34:23 UTC+1, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
Hi,
I recently put a few flat panel LED arrays in a shed and garage.
The same units that I used in the house on a few low ceilings. Flat
LED panels around 12 to 48W.

The shed units were on even when the switches were off, not too
bright, but initially I thought that the manufacturer had used a
phosphorescent chemical in the array.

Turning the CU off demonstrated the flaw in this reasoning.

The direct lights are a minor irritation, but the two exterior
floodlights are a pain in the neck as they are fed via a switch with a
2 wire timer across it, for a delayed escape.

I believe the capacitive coupling is causing the internal lights to
"glow" and this is tolerable, but the external units are obviously
being powered via the residual off current of the two wire time
switch.

I thought an incandescent 100W light across these to light an
additional "black hole" might provide a "sink" for the current, but
despite having cut the "off" luminocity down considerably, the
Floodlights are still too bright.

I have some 240V relays on order, but does anyone know of a neater,
quicker fix?

Currently I have two 50W LED lamps and a 100W incandescent all in
parallel, fed by a single pole switch with a two wire timer across the
contacts.

The relay will be easy to fit electrically, but will need an
additional JB, or similar for mounting, and it will be a pain sticking
this on the side of the shed door.



Regards

AB

A mains rated capacitor across the LEDs would help. I'd add a little series R with it to avoid damaging switching currents.

Or the relay. The PIR/timer/etc only runs the relay coil then, the LEDs being switched by the contacts.


NT
Thanks, I did consider this approach, but the 100W bulb seemed the
easiest shunt to deck. I haven't any mains rated capacitors, so I
didn't try to work out a value.



As the capacitor, like the relay would need to be ordered, I thought
the relay would be a safer bet, although, come to think of it, I may
get a mains rated polyester in the switch box.

Thanks, I'll hunt out the calculator!

AB