In my loft I found a bit of a leak.

The hot and cold to the shower both have a in-line stop tap and then a non-
return valve / check valve. (30+ years old)

The stop tap is weeping a bit and other parts are a bit crusty - I think I
should make up a couple of new lengths with new valves (for what they cost)
and splice it into the existing pipework.

Any recommendations on what fittings are best for this job - bearing in
mind it is hidden away in the loft?

DerbyBorn Wrote in message:
In my loft I found a bit of a leak.

The hot and cold to the shower both have a in-line stop tap and then a non-
return valve / check valve. (30+ years old)

The stop tap is weeping a bit and other parts are a bit crusty - I think I
should make up a couple of new lengths with new valves (for what they cost)
and splice it into the existing pipework.

Any recommendations on what fittings are best for this job - bearing in
mind it is hidden away in the loft?


Is the leaky one on the hot side? Is the valve one of those
screwdriver operated ballvalve jobs?
If so, many years ago I temporarily bodged one with a jubilee clip
& a bit of inner tube rubber... Some 7 years later it was still
working when removed :-)
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Jim K wrote in
o.uk:

DerbyBorn Wrote in message:
In my loft I found a bit of a leak.

The hot and cold to the shower both have a in-line stop tap and then
a non- return valve / check valve. (30+ years old)

The stop tap is weeping a bit and other parts are a bit crusty - I
think I should make up a couple of new lengths with new valves (for
what they cost) and splice it into the existing pipework.

Any recommendations on what fittings are best for this job - bearing
in mind it is hidden away in the loft?


Is the leaky one on the hot side? Is the valve one of those
screwdriver operated ballvalve jobs?
If so, many years ago I temporarily bodged one with a jubilee clip
& a bit of inner tube rubber... Some 7 years later it was still
working when removed :-)

No - proper Stop Taps. Gland screwed right down. - I really want to do a
repalcementfor what it will cost in stuff. A joint is also a bit crusty.

DerbyBorn Wrote in message:
Jim K wrote in
o.uk:

DerbyBorn Wrote in message:
In my loft I found a bit of a leak.

The hot and cold to the shower both have a in-line stop tap and then
a non- return valve / check valve. (30+ years old)

The stop tap is weeping a bit and other parts are a bit crusty - I
think I should make up a couple of new lengths with new valves (for
what they cost) and splice it into the existing pipework.

Any recommendations on what fittings are best for this job - bearing
in mind it is hidden away in the loft?


Is the leaky one on the hot side? Is the valve one of those
screwdriver operated ballvalve jobs?
If so, many years ago I temporarily bodged one with a jubilee clip
& a bit of inner tube rubber... Some 7 years later it was still
working when removed :-)

No - proper Stop Taps. Gland screwed right down. - I really want to do a
repalcementfor what it will cost in stuff. A joint is also a bit crusty.


Mmm fair enough.
I think glands are repackable with hemp string & boss white?? but
never bothered myself :-)
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

I really want to replace it all - one end compression is a bit crusty as
well. I don't want to leave a legacy of bodge! I want to cut a lenght out
and fit new valves with new pipe in between.

Are double check valves essential?

On 20/03/2018 17:51, DerbyBorn wrote:
In my loft I found a bit of a leak.

The hot and cold to the shower both have a in-line stop tap and then a non-
return valve / check valve. (30+ years old)

The stop tap is weeping a bit and other parts are a bit crusty - I think I
should make up a couple of new lengths with new valves (for what they cost)
and splice it into the existing pipework.

Any recommendations on what fittings are best for this job - bearing in
mind it is hidden away in the loft?

What size pipe? Metric or Imperial? What material - copper or stainless
steel?

Assuming it's copper pipe in metric sizes, use solder joints when
splicing new sections in. Once you have checked they don't leak, you can
forget about them.

When replacing the stop taps, use full bore lever-operated ball valves
instead of bib taps.

In a later post, you ask whether check valves are essential. Where does
the water come from for the shower - is it gravity flow from a header
tank for cold and a vented stored hot water system - or is it all at
mains pressure, with an unvented hot water system or combi boiler? You
only need double check valves if there's a danger that dirty water could
get sucked into the mains in the event of a mains failure.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

When replacing the stop taps, use full bore lever-operated ball valves
instead of bib taps.

In a later post, you ask whether check valves are essential. Where
does the water come from for the shower - is it gravity flow from a
header tank for cold and a vented stored hot water system - or is it
all at mains pressure, with an unvented hot water system or combi
boiler? You only need double check valves if there's a danger that
dirty water could get sucked into the mains in the event of a mains
failure.

Mains - and mains feom Combi. I suppose syphoning could remotely be
possible if shower head was left in bath tub water.

Copper pipe - 30 years old so should by 15mm. Not keen on solder in loft.

Roger Mills wrote in
:

On 20/03/2018 17:51, DerbyBorn wrote:
In my loft I found a bit of a leak.

The hot and cold to the shower both have a in-line stop tap and then
a non- return valve / check valve. (30+ years old)

The stop tap is weeping a bit and other parts are a bit crusty - I
think I should make up a couple of new lengths with new valves (for
what they cost) and splice it into the existing pipework.

Any recommendations on what fittings are best for this job - bearing
in mind it is hidden away in the loft?

What size pipe? Metric or Imperial? What material - copper or
stainless steel?

Assuming it's copper pipe in metric sizes, use solder joints when
splicing new sections in. Once you have checked they don't leak, you
can forget about them.

When replacing the stop taps, use full bore lever-operated ball valves
instead of bib taps.

In a later post, you ask whether check valves are essential. Where
does the water come from for the shower - is it gravity flow from a
header tank for cold and a vented stored hot water system - or is it
all at mains pressure, with an unvented hot water system or combi
boiler? You only need double check valves if there's a danger that
dirty water could get sucked into the mains in the event of a mains
failure.

Was thinking the valves would be at each end of a new bit of pipe.

In article 6,
DerbyBorn writes:
I really want to replace it all - one end compression is a bit crusty as
well. I don't want to leave a legacy of bodge! I want to cut a lenght out
and fit new valves with new pipe in between.

Are double check valves essential?

They are required if there's any risk of feeding back into water
supply. For a shower, that means if the hose is long enough and
positioned such that the shower head can be under water in a bath
and thus syphon water back into the mains. Wouldn't apply to a
shower tray with no waste plug.
It would also apply if the hot water comes from a storage tank and
the cold water from the mains.
Some shower valves include them anyway (typically those with
separate temperature and flow knobs, where the flow knob is on the
mixer outlet, and those with hot/cold differential pressure
compensation for use with multipoints and combis).

Essential? Depends what you regard as essential. They can
significantly impede the flow if the pressure isn't very high.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

DerbyBorn Wrote in message:


When replacing the stop taps, use full bore lever-operated ball valves
instead of bib taps.

In a later post, you ask whether check valves are essential. Where
does the water come from for the shower - is it gravity flow from a
header tank for cold and a vented stored hot water system - or is it
all at mains pressure, with an unvented hot water system or combi
boiler? You only need double check valves if there's a danger that
dirty water could get sucked into the mains in the event of a mains
failure.

Mains - and mains feom Combi. I suppose syphoning could remotely be
possible if shower head was left in bath tub water.

Copper pipe - 30 years old so should by 15mm. Not keen on solder in loft.



Why do you need stop taps at all? Are you likely to shut off the
shower feed for hours/days?

In a hotel obviously you don't want to shut off all the water but
in a domestic situation it's not much of a hardship to just turn
off the incoming mains for an hour or two.

Tim
--

In a hotel obviously you don't want to shut off all the water but
in a domestic situation it's not much of a hardship to just turn
off the incoming mains for an hour or two.

Tim

HAndy if repairing / replacing shower valve. I suppose I need full bore
service valves.

DerbyBorn Wrote in message:


In a hotel obviously you don't want to shut off all the water but
in a domestic situation it's not much of a hardship to just turn
off the incoming mains for an hour or two.

Tim

HAndy if repairing / replacing shower valve. I suppose I need full bore
service valves.


How often do you do that? Couldn't you cope with the mains turned
off for a short period once every 10-20 years?

Tim
--

On 20/03/2018 20:58, Jim K wrote:

I think glands are repackable with hemp string & boss white?? but
never bothered myself :-)


I think any string will do, just unravel it a bit. I used white parcel
string to do this job. Vaseline works, rather than boss white, but I
used some greasy ointment we had. 5 years later, it's still water tight.

GB wrote:

On 20/03/2018 20:58, Jim K wrote:

I think glands are repackable with hemp string & boss white?? but
never bothered myself :-)


I think any string will do, just unravel it a bit. I used white parcel
string to do this job. Vaseline works, rather than boss white, but I
used some greasy ointment we had. 5 years later, it's still water tight.

Provided you use a decent bulk (many twisted turns) PTFE tape works
without any additional lubrication.

--

Roger Hayter

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article 6,
DerbyBorn writes:
I really want to replace it all - one end compression is a bit crusty as
well. I don't want to leave a legacy of bodge! I want to cut a lenght out
and fit new valves with new pipe in between.

Are double check valves essential?

They are required if there's any risk of feeding back into water
supply. For a shower, that means if the hose is long enough and
positioned such that the shower head can be under water in a bath
and thus syphon water back into the mains. Wouldn't apply to a
shower tray with no waste plug.

Do you not need to run the shower hose through a ring at the bottom of
the rail to stop it reaching the ground if you are not mounting the
shower over a bath, then? I found it difficult to interpret "could"
enter the water in the regs, whether you have to allow for a blocked
waste.




It would also apply if the hot water comes from a storage tank and
the cold water from the mains.
Some shower valves include them anyway (typically those with
separate temperature and flow knobs, where the flow knob is on the
mixer outlet, and those with hot/cold differential pressure
compensation for use with multipoints and combis).

Essential? Depends what you regard as essential. They can
significantly impede the flow if the pressure isn't very high.


--

Roger Hayter

On Tuesday, 20 March 2018 21:15:54 UTC, DerbyBorn wrote:
I really want to replace it all - one end compression is a bit crusty as
well. I don't want to leave a legacy of bodge! I want to cut a lenght out
and fit new valves with new pipe in between.

Are double check valves essential?

sorry, Jim won't let you.

Shower feeds don't usually have check valves. But there are showers that risk one feed coming back up the other. High flow / wide bore shower hose & head help a lot to avoid that.


NT

I think I may abandon the check valves and just get some full bore service
valves.
Some of the comression fittings look a bit crusty - it isn't easy to keep
an eye on it hence I would like to put new stuff in the line.

Wrote in message:
On Tuesday, 20 March 2018 21:15:54 UTC, DerbyBorn wrote:
I really want to replace it all - one end compression is a bit crusty as
well. I don't want to leave a legacy of bodge! I want to cut a lenght out
and fit new valves with new pipe in between.

Are double check valves essential?

sorry, Jim won't let you.

Gob****e's back I see...
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

In article 2,
DerbyBorn writes:


I think I may abandon the check valves and just get some full bore service
valves.
Some of the comression fittings look a bit crusty - it isn't easy to keep
an eye on it hence I would like to put new stuff in the line.

Full bore valves seize up unless they get operated.

To some degree, that applies to all stop cocks - I don't think there
is one you can install and not touch for 25 years, and expect to still
work, but full bore valves seize up particularly quickly when not
operated.

When I moved in to my current place which was about 10 years old, the
service valves in the airing cupboard were all gate valves. Not one
of them still worked. I replaced them all with full bore lever valves,
but I make a point of operating them all 2-3 times a year, and they've
been OK for 15 years now. In another place, I installed a couple under
the floor in case I ever needed to isolate part of the heating system,
but 5 years later, they had seized solid as there had been no use or
even access to them.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

operated.

When I moved in to my current place which was about 10 years old, the
service valves in the airing cupboard were all gate valves. Not one
of them still worked. I replaced them all with full bore lever valves,
but I make a point of operating them all 2-3 times a year, and they've
been OK for 15 years now. In another place, I installed a couple under
the floor in case I ever needed to isolate part of the heating system,
but 5 years later, they had seized solid as there had been no use or
even access to them.


Thanks - thinking plain lengthe of pipe to replace the valves. It is easier
to turn off the water under the sink than to go into the loft to isolate
the shower. Was trying to comply!