Covered before I know...

To create storage space in the chalet bungalow I have insulated and put
flooring in various bits of soffit/attic space.

To avoid cold doors, I need to fit 100mm or so of PIR foam to the backs.

First problem is how to do this neatly. Is there a semi-rigid plastic
sheet I can glue to the foam and perhaps hot melt glue strips round the
edges to form a plastic box? The doors will probably be tongue and
grooved Oak which will need bracing at the back; providing an edge
attachment.

The other issue is hinging a *thick* door and avoiding having to leave
clearance on the latch side. I had in mind hinges where the pivot pin is
to the side of the opening but don't know a source or a suitable google
description.

--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb writes:

Covered before I know...

To create storage space in the chalet bungalow I have
insulated and put flooring in various bits of soffit/attic
space.

To avoid cold doors, I need to fit 100mm or so of PIR foam to the backs.

First problem is how to do this neatly. Is there a
semi-rigid plastic sheet I can glue to the foam and perhaps
hot melt glue strips round the edges to form a plastic box?

I used 5mm foamalux on mine. You can glue it to the PIR with
gap-filling adhesive. You can, if you are careful, thermoform it
into a box shape with a hot air gun, though I didnt bother.

--
Jón Fairbairn

In message , Jon Fairbairn
writes
Tim Lamb writes:

Covered before I know...

To create storage space in the chalet bungalow I have
insulated and put flooring in various bits of soffit/attic
space.

To avoid cold doors, I need to fit 100mm or so of PIR foam to the backs.

First problem is how to do this neatly. Is there a
semi-rigid plastic sheet I can glue to the foam and perhaps
hot melt glue strips round the edges to form a plastic box?

I used 5mm foamalux on mine. You can glue it to the PIR with
gap-filling adhesive. You can, if you are careful, thermoform it
into a box shape with a hot air gun, though I didnt bother.

Foamalux! You learn something every day! Ta:-)


--
Tim Lamb

May not be the prettiest but how about these sort of hinges on the front instead and open towards you.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p740...hoCZcYQAvD_BwE

Maybe you could put hardboard over the front to cover if you don't like them?

In article c1187848-4069-4a7e-bdac-7267c17ccc82
@googlegroups.com, says...

May not be the prettiest but how about these sort of hinges on the front instead and open towards you.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p740...hoCZcYQAvD_BwE


Couldn't you find a longer link to post?

This one works perfectly well - and doesn't cause a line wrap
problem:

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p74021?table=no

--

Terry

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com

In message ,
writes
May not be the prettiest but how about these sort of hinges on the
front instead and open towards you.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p740...utm_source=goo
gleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googlesh oppingfeed&mkwid=s2guAt
x9k_dm&pcrid=142465636922&pkw=&pmt=&product=74021 &gclid=CjwKCAiAsejRBRB3
EiwAZft7sEoF2pnuqSQS0ClTnJrWaXxL1XjE2PR300NrjNAjz KoeifDrnKrLzhoCZcYQAvD_BwE

Maybe you could put hardboard over the front to cover if you don't like them?

Got those all over the current (farmhouse) place. Might work if I put a
90deg. fold in the strap. The door will then only open to 90 which might
be seen as a problem

--
Tim Lamb

Maybe I am imagining the situation incorrectly. When closed,I assume the front of the door and the frame surrounding it is flush. The door is then say 100mm thick. If you then put the hinge on the front of the door and the frame (i.e. flush) when you open the door towards you the hinge should open 180 degrees? You would probably need to trim the insulation on the non-hinge side of the door to stop it hitting the frame as it comes out.

In message ,
writes
Maybe I am imagining the situation incorrectly. When closed,I assume
the front of the door and the frame surrounding it is flush. The door
is then say 100mm thick. If you then put the hinge on the front of the
door and the frame (i.e. flush) when you open the door towards you the
hinge should open 180 degrees? You would probably need to trim the
insulation on the non-hinge side of the door to stop it hitting the
frame as it comes out.

Just so.

I may be straining at a Gnat here but I was thinking that moving the
pivot point away from the door opening would make the trimming less
necessary.

--
Tim Lamb

In article ,
Tim Lamb writes:
Covered before I know...

To create storage space in the chalet bungalow I have insulated and put
flooring in various bits of soffit/attic space.

To avoid cold doors, I need to fit 100mm or so of PIR foam to the backs.

First problem is how to do this neatly. Is there a semi-rigid plastic
sheet I can glue to the foam and perhaps hot melt glue strips round the
edges to form a plastic box? The doors will probably be tongue and
grooved Oak which will need bracing at the back; providing an edge
attachment.

The other issue is hinging a *thick* door and avoiding having to leave
clearance on the latch side. I had in mind hinges where the pivot pin is
to the side of the opening but don't know a source or a suitable google
description.

Look up storm hinges (no idea why they're called that), or
retrofit hinges for wheelchair access, which move the hinge
pins out in front of the architrave, so a 90 degree open door
is not using up any of the doorframe width.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
news
In article ,
Tim Lamb writes:
Covered before I know...

To create storage space in the chalet bungalow I have insulated and put
flooring in various bits of soffit/attic space.

To avoid cold doors, I need to fit 100mm or so of PIR foam to the backs.

First problem is how to do this neatly. Is there a semi-rigid plastic
sheet I can glue to the foam and perhaps hot melt glue strips round the
edges to form a plastic box? The doors will probably be tongue and
grooved Oak which will need bracing at the back; providing an edge
attachment.

The other issue is hinging a *thick* door and avoiding having to leave
clearance on the latch side. I had in mind hinges where the pivot pin is
to the side of the opening but don't know a source or a suitable google
description.

Look up storm hinges (no idea why they're called that),

Because they are mostly used for storm shutters.

or retrofit hinges for wheelchair access, which move the
hinge pins out in front of the architrave, so a 90 degree
open door is not using up any of the doorframe width.

In message , Andrew Gabriel
writes
In article ,
Tim Lamb writes:
Covered before I know...

To create storage space in the chalet bungalow I have insulated and put
flooring in various bits of soffit/attic space.

To avoid cold doors, I need to fit 100mm or so of PIR foam to the backs.

First problem is how to do this neatly. Is there a semi-rigid plastic
sheet I can glue to the foam and perhaps hot melt glue strips round the
edges to form a plastic box? The doors will probably be tongue and
grooved Oak which will need bracing at the back; providing an edge
attachment.

The other issue is hinging a *thick* door and avoiding having to leave
clearance on the latch side. I had in mind hinges where the pivot pin is
to the side of the opening but don't know a source or a suitable google
description.

Look up storm hinges (no idea why they're called that), or
retrofit hinges for wheelchair access, which move the hinge
pins out in front of the architrave, so a 90 degree open door
is not using up any of the doorframe width.

OK chaps. Enough ideas for now. I may be over thinking the problem:-)
Moving the hinge pin further into the room helps with architrave issues
but may be resisted on the grounds of grand children safety.

Today's problem is screwing 11 sheets of 8x4 ply to the floor and not
finding the heating pipe runs spaced at 200mm!


--
Tim Lamb