Combi-boiler at the rear utility extension of house and there is no
room thermostat so have to go and turn the temperature dial on the
Baxi 105HE boiler. Not easy to run a wire there but the main question
is how do I work out where to put the wires anyway?

Just looking at whether something like
https://www.geniushub.co.uk/products/#10018 is practical.

House has spare rooms and areas that can be run at different temps at
different times of the day/year/visitors

--
AnthonyL

AnthonyL wrote:
Combi-boiler at the rear utility extension of house and there is no
room thermostat so have to go and turn the temperature dial on the
Baxi 105HE boiler. Not easy to run a wire there but the main question
is how do I work out where to put the wires anyway?

Just looking at whether something like
https://www.geniushub.co.uk/products/#10018 is practical.

House has spare rooms and areas that can be run at different temps at
different times of the day/year/visitors


I put a wireless room stat in my mum and dad's house a few years ago,
but it was only the £25 variety :-) They have two motorised valves -
one for CH and one for HW. The timer output for CH ON was wired
straight to the CH motorised valve, and I just introduced the thermostat
receiver into that connection. So far, it is working well. The hardest
part is tracing which wire goes where once they are out of view :-)

On Thursday, 7 December 2017 14:33:12 UTC, AnthonyL wrote:
Combi-boiler at the rear utility extension of house and there is no
room thermostat so have to go and turn the temperature dial on the
Baxi 105HE boiler. Not easy to run a wire there but the main question
is how do I work out where to put the wires anyway?

I think:

Thermostat C and NO (call for heat) (Genius 2 Common and 4 Heating On) terminals connect to 1 and 2 on the boiler. If there are any wires already connected to 1 and 2, or a link between them, remove them; this will disable any existing clock and thermostat.

The A and B terminals connect to 1 and 2 on the boiler. If there are any wires already connected to 1 and 2, or a link between them, remove them; this will disable any existing clock and thermostat.

You can take the L and N for the Genius base supply from the appropriate terminals on the boiler.

https://www.geniushub.co.uk/wp-conte..._Volt_Free.pdf

Owain

On Thursday, 7 December 2017 14:49:07 UTC, wrote:
Thermostat C and NO (call for heat) (Genius 2 Common and 4 Heating On)
terminals connect to 1 and 2 on the boiler. If there are any wires already
connected to 1 and 2, or a link between them, remove them; this will disable
any existing clock and thermostat.


Ignore the references to A and B terminals in the prior post, that was copied from instructions for a different thermostat.

Owain

A mate of mine had a system with no room stat instead it relied on TRVs on each radiator to control temperature maybe you have a similar system. You should not have to fiddle with the boiler stat, I cannot fully remember my mates system as it was quite a while back but I suspect the boiler stat was used to control the circulating pump.

Richard

On Thu, 7 Dec 2017 08:36:38 -0800 (PST), Tricky Dicky
wrote:

A mate of mine had a system with no room stat instead it relied on TRVs on =
each radiator to control temperature maybe you have a similar system. You s=
hould not have to fiddle with the boiler stat, I cannot fully remember my m=
ates system as it was quite a while back but I suspect the boiler stat was =
used to control the circulating pump.


Well if we're away for a couple of days I turn the boiler temperature
control right down rather than run around 11 radiator TRvs.

And whilst in theory the boiler should shut off more regularly in
milder weather I'll turn it back to the 1 'o' clock position whereas
now it's at nearly 3 'o' clock and it'll be wound on another notch
when the next cold snap turns up. Ambient temperature does seem to
impact on what radiator/boiler thermostat temperature is needed.




--
AnthonyL

On 2017-12-07, Tricky Dicky wrote:
A mate of mine had a system with no room stat instead it relied on TRVs on each radiator to control temperature maybe you have a similar system.

Unless they are "smart" TRVs, you'll still want something to turn off the
boiler when all the TRVs are closed. A bypass valve and relying on the boiler
stat works, but it's not great.