When there's a ladder leaning on a building and you walk up to it to
move it, always look carefully at the top in case anyone has left any
tools hanging on the rungs.
When pulling a ladder away from the building to move it put your foot on
the ground behind the ladder leg to act as a fulcrum.
When lowering an extending ladder put it at a steeper angle to reduce
the strength need to unhook the upper section from the lower one.
When extending a triple extend the top section fully then extend the
middle section as much as necessary.
To carry a ladder first find the point of balance. Carry the ladder with
it as upright as possible to reduce the weight on your shoulder. Never
hold a ladder horizontally to carry it, unless there's no headroom.
When carrying a ladder keep a lookout for overhead cables.
If you have to lift a double or a triple onto a higher level while the
ladder is extended tie the sections together.
If you feel the need to have someone footing the ladder it is
fundamentally unsafe. Secure it properly.
A welding clamp can be used to secure a ladder to a strong gutter.
If the ground is frosty put an excessive amount of salt down around the
foot of the ladder to prevent re-freezing.
Frost can form on the stiles of a ladder while you are on the roof and
make it skate across the edge of the gutter it is leaning against.
If a dog follows you up the ladder onto a flat roof you will most likely
have to carry it down. Dogs just can't do going down a ladder. Monkeys
are OK though.
If a child follows you onto the roof leave it up there.
If a 4 metre double or triple becomes worn and wobbly you can cut it
down and make a perfectly good 2 metre ladder.

Bill

"Bill Wright" wrote in message
news
If a dog follows you up the ladder onto a flat roof you will most likely
have to carry it down. Dogs just can't do going down a ladder. Monkeys are
OK though.

Have you had *many* cases of dogs following you up your ladder? Maybe you
should stop carrying around all those doggy treats in your pockets :-)

On 13/10/2017 10:19, NY wrote:
"Bill Wright" wrote in message
news
If a dog follows you up the ladder onto a flat roof you will most
likely have to carry it down. Dogs just can't do going down a ladder.
Monkeys are OK though.

Have you had *many* cases of dogs following you up your ladder? Maybe
you should stop carrying around all those doggy treats in your pockets :-)

Only twice in 50 years. Found one on a roof once though.

Bill

"NY" wrote in message
o.uk...
"Bill Wright" wrote in message
news
If a dog follows you up the ladder onto a flat roof you will most likely
have to carry it down. Dogs just can't do going down a ladder. Monkeys
are OK though.

Have you had *many* cases of dogs following you up your ladder? Maybe you
should stop carrying around all those doggy treats in your pockets :-)

my cat always used to follow me up a ladder when working at home
stuped old girl all she ever wanted to do my sit on my lap.

-

In article ,
"NY" writes:
"Bill Wright" wrote in message
news
If a dog follows you up the ladder onto a flat roof you will most likely
have to carry it down. Dogs just can't do going down a ladder. Monkeys are
OK though.

Have you had *many* cases of dogs following you up your ladder? Maybe you
should stop carrying around all those doggy treats in your pockets :-)

ISTR someone here, maybe Peter Parry, had a case where a couple of
cats got up on the roof, and he ended up zipping them into his
coat to get them down again.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

You have a lot of dogs following you do you then Bill?
When I used to climb ladders it was usually cats.
Some dogs can come down ladders OK the come down backwards as we do, but
the small ones are not able to do it very well.
My old Lab could, but not when he got older and somewhat fat.

As for the rest, well, people just don't actually do this stuff do they?
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Bill Wright" wrote in message
news
When there's a ladder leaning on a building and you walk up to it to move
it, always look carefully at the top in case anyone has left any tools
hanging on the rungs.
When pulling a ladder away from the building to move it put your foot on
the ground behind the ladder leg to act as a fulcrum.
When lowering an extending ladder put it at a steeper angle to reduce the
strength need to unhook the upper section from the lower one.
When extending a triple extend the top section fully then extend the
middle section as much as necessary.
To carry a ladder first find the point of balance. Carry the ladder with
it as upright as possible to reduce the weight on your shoulder. Never
hold a ladder horizontally to carry it, unless there's no headroom.
When carrying a ladder keep a lookout for overhead cables.
If you have to lift a double or a triple onto a higher level while the
ladder is extended tie the sections together.
If you feel the need to have someone footing the ladder it is
fundamentally unsafe. Secure it properly.
A welding clamp can be used to secure a ladder to a strong gutter.
If the ground is frosty put an excessive amount of salt down around the
foot of the ladder to prevent re-freezing.
Frost can form on the stiles of a ladder while you are on the roof and
make it skate across the edge of the gutter it is leaning against.
If a dog follows you up the ladder onto a flat roof you will most likely
have to carry it down. Dogs just can't do going down a ladder. Monkeys are
OK though.
If a child follows you onto the roof leave it up there.
If a 4 metre double or triple becomes worn and wobbly you can cut it down
and make a perfectly good 2 metre ladder.

Bill

never hold the rungs when climbing a ladder....always check a rung hasn't
been sawn through ........

Hang on who would saw through a rung?
One of the most unsafe ladders i had was wooden and was supposedly held
together by metal rods below the wooden rungs, so even if the rungs did
break the ladder should not unzip as it were. Sadly the rods were not up to
it and bent and broke.
Luckily I was only three up at the time.


I'm always a little wary when I need to go into the loft, as that ladder is
one of those concertina ones so it does not take up a lot of space. It
always feels decidedly wobbly though due to all the hinges in it.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"New OAP ..." wrote in message
news
never hold the rungs when climbing a ladder....always check a rung hasn't
been sawn through ........

Brian Gaff wrote:

One of the most unsafe ladders i had was wooden and was supposedly
held together by metal rods below the wooden rungs

Yes I inherited such a ladder with this house, quite old, very heavy, I
was wary of the rungs, eventually one did break and I chopped the thing
up with a circular-saw.

"Brian Gaff" wrote in message
news
Hang on who would saw through a rung?

plenty of scumbags......had a job where I had to do repairs to a chimneyhead
because the owners wouldn't so scumbag owner who knew a big bill was coming
his way sawed almost through a wooden ladder three storeys up.......just as
well climber held onto the sides and not the rung.....world is full of
scumbags you know......

On 13/10/2017 12:37, New OAP ... wrote:
never hold the rungs when climbing a ladder....always check a rung hasn't
been sawn through ........


Some debate about that. If the rungs are deffo secure you can get a
firmer grip than on the stiles. Firemen hold the rungs.

Bill

On Fri, 13 Oct 2017 04:35:47 +0100, Bill Wright
wrote:

When there's a ladder leaning on a building and you walk up to it to
move it, always look carefully at the top in case anyone has left any
tools hanging on the rungs.
When pulling a ladder away from the building to move it put your foot on
the ground behind the ladder leg to act as a fulcrum.
When lowering an extending ladder put it at a steeper angle to reduce
the strength need to unhook the upper section from the lower one.
When extending a triple extend the top section fully then extend the
middle section as much as necessary.
To carry a ladder first find the point of balance. Carry the ladder with
it as upright as possible to reduce the weight on your shoulder. Never
hold a ladder horizontally to carry it, unless there's no headroom.

Why? Depending on its length it may be difficult to balance if a
large part of it extends above you.

On 13/10/2017 13:43, Mark wrote:

To carry a ladder first find the point of balance. Carry the ladder with
it as upright as possible to reduce the weight on your shoulder. Never
hold a ladder horizontally to carry it, unless there's no headroom.

Why? Depending on its length it may be difficult to balance if a
large part of it extends above you.


I agree that a heavy ladder longer than approx 4m should probably be
carried horizontally by two men. The make manoeuvring easier they should
both be a little way from the ends.

Bill

On 13/10/2017 04:35, Bill Wright wrote:
When there's a ladder leaning on a building and you walk up to it to
move it, always look carefully at the top in case anyone has left any
tools hanging on the rungs.
When pulling a ladder away from the building to move it put your foot on
the ground behind the ladder leg to act as a fulcrum.
When lowering an extending ladder put it at a steeper angle to reduce
the strength need to unhook the upper section from the lower one.
When extending a triple extend the top section fully then extend the
middle section as much as necessary.
To carry a ladder first find the point of balance. Carry the ladder with
it as upright as possible to reduce the weight on your shoulder. Never
hold a ladder horizontally to carry it, unless there's no headroom.
When carrying a ladder keep a lookout for overhead cables.
If you have to lift a double or a triple onto a higher level while the
ladder is extended tie the sections together.
If you feel the need to have someone footing the ladder it is
fundamentally unsafe. Secure it properly.
A welding clamp can be used to secure a ladder to a strong gutter.
If the ground is frosty put an excessive amount of salt down around the
foot of the ladder to prevent re-freezing.
Frost can form on the stiles of a ladder while you are on the roof and
make it skate across the edge of the gutter it is leaning against.
If a dog follows you up the ladder onto a flat roof you will most likely
have to carry it down. Dogs just can't do going down a ladder. Monkeys
are OK though.
If a child follows you onto the roof leave it up there.
If a 4 metre double or triple becomes worn and wobbly you can cut it
down and make a perfectly good 2 metre ladder.

Bill

So what's the "correct" way to erect a 2 section ladder against a
rendered wall? Extending first makes it very hard to erect. Bouncing the
ladder to slide the top section up works against brick but not roughcast
render (and is a bit risky)

wrote in message
...
On 13/10/2017 04:35, Bill Wright wrote:
When there's a ladder leaning on a building and you walk up to it to move
it, always look carefully at the top in case anyone has left any tools
hanging on the rungs.
When pulling a ladder away from the building to move it put your foot on
the ground behind the ladder leg to act as a fulcrum.
When lowering an extending ladder put it at a steeper angle to reduce the
strength need to unhook the upper section from the lower one.
When extending a triple extend the top section fully then extend the
middle section as much as necessary.
To carry a ladder first find the point of balance. Carry the ladder with
it as upright as possible to reduce the weight on your shoulder. Never
hold a ladder horizontally to carry it, unless there's no headroom.
When carrying a ladder keep a lookout for overhead cables.
If you have to lift a double or a triple onto a higher level while the
ladder is extended tie the sections together.
If you feel the need to have someone footing the ladder it is
fundamentally unsafe. Secure it properly.
A welding clamp can be used to secure a ladder to a strong gutter.
If the ground is frosty put an excessive amount of salt down around the
foot of the ladder to prevent re-freezing.
Frost can form on the stiles of a ladder while you are on the roof and
make it skate across the edge of the gutter it is leaning against.
If a dog follows you up the ladder onto a flat roof you will most likely
have to carry it down. Dogs just can't do going down a ladder. Monkeys
are OK though.
If a child follows you onto the roof leave it up there.
If a 4 metre double or triple becomes worn and wobbly you can cut it down
and make a perfectly good 2 metre ladder.

So what's the "correct" way to erect a 2 section ladder against a rendered
wall?

Get a well designed aluminium ladder that is easily to extend
with it standing on the ground not touching anything at the top
until the top is high enough so that it never touches the wall and
allow it to land on the barge board or gutter above the top of the
wall as you let it come off the vertical to rest on whets above the
top of the wall. Thats what I do with my 6' eaves that doesnt
have any wall that the ladder can touch. Works fine.

Extending first makes it very hard to erect.

Not with a decent well designed aluminium ladder.

Bouncing the ladder to slide the top section up works against brick

No need to do it that way with a well design aluminium extension ladder.

but not roughcast render

So get a better ladder.

(and is a bit risky)

Only in the sense of leaving marks on the render.

Rod Speed wrote :
Bouncing the ladder to slide the top section up works against brick

No need to do it that way with a well design aluminium extension ladder.

My double extension is a very heavy industrial grade of ladder, I guess
about 32 feet fully extended. I struggled with it for years, erecting
it to reach the eaves - it is heavy, even for two. It was a matter of
extending it from the ground, climbing up then bouncing it to get the
full height of extension.

Last year I adapted a pair of small rubber faced push-chair wheels to
make it easier. I fixed them on the top of the top section, so they
just protrude enough to hold it off the wall whilst erecting at a
shallow angle, but once at the working angle the ladder top rests on
the actual ladder. It is much easier to use now.

I also bought a ladder stand off bracket, which holds it away from the
wall, or allows it to be used on a corner. That just fixes in place via
brackets and springs. I have not used it yet in earnest - I'm thinking
that if fitted before the ladder is up, it will make the ladder very
top heavy. My plan B is one of erecting the ladder, then spragging the
ladder away from the wall with a piece of timber to allow the bracket
to be fitted.

On Saturday, 14 October 2017 16:35:47 UTC+1, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Rod Speed wrote :
Bouncing the ladder to slide the top section up works against brick

No need to do it that way with a well design aluminium extension ladder.

My double extension is a very heavy industrial grade of ladder, I guess
about 32 feet fully extended. I struggled with it for years, erecting
it to reach the eaves - it is heavy, even for two. It was a matter of
extending it from the ground, climbing up then bouncing it to get the
full height of extension.

Last year I adapted a pair of small rubber faced push-chair wheels to
make it easier. I fixed them on the top of the top section, so they
just protrude enough to hold it off the wall whilst erecting at a
shallow angle, but once at the working angle the ladder top rests on
the actual ladder. It is much easier to use now.

I also bought a ladder stand off bracket, which holds it away from the
wall, or allows it to be used on a corner. That just fixes in place via
brackets and springs. I have not used it yet in earnest - I'm thinking
that if fitted before the ladder is up, it will make the ladder very
top heavy. My plan B is one of erecting the ladder, then spragging the
ladder away from the wall with a piece of timber to allow the bracket
to be fitted.

Springs?? I'd rather use a homemade standoff any day.

On 14/10/2017 16:48, wrote:
On Saturday, 14 October 2017 16:35:47 UTC+1, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Rod Speed wrote :
Bouncing the ladder to slide the top section up works against brick

No need to do it that way with a well design aluminium extension ladder.

My double extension is a very heavy industrial grade of ladder, I guess
about 32 feet fully extended. I struggled with it for years, erecting
it to reach the eaves - it is heavy, even for two. It was a matter of
extending it from the ground, climbing up then bouncing it to get the
full height of extension.

Last year I adapted a pair of small rubber faced push-chair wheels to
make it easier. I fixed them on the top of the top section, so they
just protrude enough to hold it off the wall whilst erecting at a
shallow angle, but once at the working angle the ladder top rests on
the actual ladder. It is much easier to use now.

I also bought a ladder stand off bracket, which holds it away from the
wall, or allows it to be used on a corner. That just fixes in place via
brackets and springs. I have not used it yet in earnest - I'm thinking
that if fitted before the ladder is up, it will make the ladder very
top heavy. My plan B is one of erecting the ladder, then spragging the
ladder away from the wall with a piece of timber to allow the bracket
to be fitted.

Springs?? I'd rather use a homemade standoff any day.

If it is like mine, the stand-off hooks quite deeply over the rungs and
the springs simply stop it moving from there - all the loading is at 90°
to the springs.

SteveW

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
news
UP 32 feet fully extended
my suicidal idea

. is one of erecting the ladder, then spragging the ladder away from the
wall with a piece of timber to allow the bracket to be fitted.


-

Harry Bloomfield wrote
Rod Speed wrote

Bouncing the ladder to slide the top section up works against brick

No need to do it that way with a well design aluminium extension ladder.

My double extension is a very heavy industrial grade of ladder, I guess
about 32 feet fully extended. I struggled with it for years, erecting it
to reach the eaves - it is heavy, even for two.

That's your problem, it isnt well designed, its much too heavy to be
viable.

It was a matter of extending it from the ground, climbing up then bouncing
it to get the full height of extension.

Again, very badly designed if you have to do that so dangerously.

Last year I adapted a pair of small rubber faced push-chair wheels to make
it easier. I fixed them on the top of the top section, so they just
protrude enough to hold it off the wall whilst erecting at a shallow
angle, but once at the working angle the ladder top rests on the actual
ladder. It is much easier to use now.

And that's the evidence it was badly designed when its so easy
to fix the design like that.

I also bought a ladder stand off bracket, which holds it away from the
wall, or allows it to be used on a corner. That just fixes in place via
brackets and springs. I have not used it yet in earnest - I'm thinking
that if fitted before the ladder is up, it will make the ladder very top
heavy. My plan B is one of erecting the ladder, then spragging the ladder
away from the wall with a piece of timber to allow the bracket to be
fitted.

Not the safest approach.

In message , Harry Bloomfield
writes
Rod Speed wrote :
Bouncing the ladder to slide the top section up works against brick

No need to do it that way with a well design aluminium extension ladder.

My double extension is a very heavy industrial grade of ladder, I guess
about 32 feet fully extended. I struggled with it for years, erecting
it to reach the eaves - it is heavy, even for two. It was a matter of
extending it from the ground, climbing up then bouncing it to get the
full height of extension.

Last year I adapted a pair of small rubber faced push-chair wheels to
make it easier. I fixed them on the top of the top section, so they
just protrude enough to hold it off the wall whilst erecting at a
shallow angle, but once at the working angle the ladder top rests on
the actual ladder. It is much easier to use now.

I also bought a ladder stand off bracket, which holds it away from the
wall, or allows it to be used on a corner. That just fixes in place via
brackets and springs. I have not used it yet in earnest - I'm thinking
that if fitted before the ladder is up, it will make the ladder very
top heavy. My plan B is one of erecting the ladder, then spragging the
ladder away from the wall with a piece of timber to allow the bracket
to be fitted.

Agricultural ladders of my youth were invariably fixed length and
timber. The trick was to put the ladder base against something immovable
(usually a hay or strawstack). Lift the top end over your head and walk
towards the base, raising the ladder above you. Lowering safely was the
same process in reverse.

Moving was done with the ladder near vertical, resting against a
shoulder, one hand on a rung as high as you could comfortably reach and
the other, low down carrying the weight.

As Bill points out, overhead obstructions can be dangerous.

Roof ladders often have a pair of wheels for getting the top up the roof
before turning over to hook on the ridge.

--
Tim Lamb

On 14/10/2017 10:34, wrote:

So what's the "correct" way to erect a 2 section ladder against a
rendered wall? Extending first makes it very hard to erect. Bouncing the
ladder to slide the top section up works against brick but not roughcast
render (and is a bit risky)

You have to extend it first, really. That isn't usually a problem but a
triple up against a three floor block of flats is very difficult. Better
if you have a second man. A roped ladder might be helpful.

Years ago I some some bolt-on wheels to overcome this.

Bill

On 15/10/2017 01:53, Bill Wright wrote:
On 14/10/2017 10:34, wrote:

So what's the "correct" way to erect a 2 section ladder against a
rendered wall? Extending first makes it very hard to erect. Bouncing
the ladder to slide the top section up works against brick but not
roughcast render (and is a bit risky)

You have to extend it first, really. That isn't usually a problem but a
triple up against a three floor block of flats is very difficult. Better
if you have a second man. A roped ladder might be helpful.

Years ago I some some bolt-on wheels to overcome this.

Bill

Thanks, that spurred me to look around. I hadn't realised that add-on
wheels were available (there are lots), but I think I might now have an
excuse to buy a new ladder with wheels and rope operation.