What's the best way to get a perfectly matched edge zone near ceiling
and skirting boards? I typically end up with a slightly lighter looking
inch or so where I've cut in the paint with a brush vs the main area
painted with a roller.
Am I brushing the paint out thinner than when applied by roller?

On Tuesday, 16 May 2017 11:22:32 UTC+1, Richard Jones wrote:
What's the best way to get a perfectly matched edge zone near ceiling
and skirting boards? I typically end up with a slightly lighter looking
inch or so where I've cut in the paint with a brush vs the main area
painted with a roller.
Am I brushing the paint out thinner than when applied by roller?

Probably. Always brush first, roller after.


NT

On 5/16/2017 11:51 AM, wrote:
On Tuesday, 16 May 2017 11:22:32 UTC+1, Richard Jones wrote:
What's the best way to get a perfectly matched edge zone near ceiling
and skirting boards? I typically end up with a slightly lighter looking
inch or so where I've cut in the paint with a brush vs the main area
painted with a roller.
Am I brushing the paint out thinner than when applied by roller?

Probably. Always brush first, roller after.


NT


Or use paint pads. Only need to touch up in corners, then; I do it at
the same time.

On Tue, 16 May 2017 03:51:38 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Tuesday, 16 May 2017 11:22:32 UTC+1, Richard Jones wrote:
What's the best way to get a perfectly matched edge zone near ceiling
and skirting boards? I typically end up with a slightly lighter looking
inch or so where I've cut in the paint with a brush vs the main area
painted with a roller.
Am I brushing the paint out thinner than when applied by roller?

Probably. Always brush first, roller after.


NT
I always do it that way around, but if covering a different colour
still find it difficult not ending up with a lighter or darker strip
around the top, or around door frames and skirting boards, switches,
sockets etc.

On 16/05/17 11:22, Richard Jones wrote:
What's the best way to get a perfectly matched edge zone near ceiling
and skirting boards? I typically end up with a slightly lighter looking
inch or so where I've cut in the paint with a brush vs the main area
painted with a roller.
Am I brushing the paint out thinner than when applied by roller?
use a decent paint with enough pigment in it


--
Religion is regarded by the common people as true, by the wise as
foolish, and by the rulers as useful.

(Seneca the Younger, 65 AD)

The Natural Philosopher wrote in newsfem5e$4fp$1
@dont-email.me:

On 16/05/17 11:22, Richard Jones wrote:
What's the best way to get a perfectly matched edge zone near ceiling
and skirting boards? I typically end up with a slightly lighter looking
inch or so where I've cut in the paint with a brush vs the main area
painted with a roller.
Am I brushing the paint out thinner than when applied by roller?
use a decent paint with enough pigment in it



Probably more a result of the stippling effect given by a roller.

On 16/05/2017 11:22, Richard Jones wrote:
What's the best way to get a perfectly matched edge zone near ceiling
and skirting boards? I typically end up with a slightly lighter looking
inch or so where I've cut in the paint with a brush vs the main area
painted with a roller.
Am I brushing the paint out thinner than when applied by roller?

I have the same effect. And that is with Johnstone's Trade paint which
which most people seem to think is a decent paint with enough pigment.
I have concluded (after playing around a bit with oddments of board) it
is the result of the different surface textures left by brush and
roller. I don't have equipment to check this quantitatively but it
would tie in with the effect one sees elsewhere that a smoother surface
is more reflective which makes the perceived colour lighter.

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

I use a little roller of the type sold for going behind radiators - and a
metal shield and / or masking tape and make a final pass with a roller to
give it the same stipple.

On 16/05/2017 13:46, DerbyBorn wrote:
I use a little roller of the type sold for going behind radiators - and a
metal shield and / or masking tape and make a final pass with a roller to
give it the same stipple.

Thanks. I might try that in future. But I've found it good enough so
far to roughen the brushed strip with a fine-to-medium grit, feathering
into the rollered[1] area.

[1] or rolled? I cannot find in the OED any example of verb "roll" or
"roller" used as a verb to mean the application of paint. And I was
surprised to see that their earliest example of the use of "paint
roller" was as recent as 1935. (Mind you, that's 5 years before
Wikipedia states paint rollers were invented!)
--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

Davidm wrote:
On Tue, 16 May 2017 03:51:38 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Tuesday, 16 May 2017 11:22:32 UTC+1, Richard Jones wrote:
What's the best way to get a perfectly matched edge zone near ceiling
and skirting boards? I typically end up with a slightly lighter looking
inch or so where I've cut in the paint with a brush vs the main area
painted with a roller.
Am I brushing the paint out thinner than when applied by roller?

Probably. Always brush first, roller after.


NT
I always do it that way around, but if covering a different colour
still find it difficult not ending up with a lighter or darker strip
around the top, or around door frames and skirting boards, switches,
sockets etc.

Sometimes it is texture rather than colour change, it just looks so.

On Tue, 16 May 2017 03:51:38 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Probably. Always brush first, roller after.

Any explanation as to why that makes a difference?

On Tuesday, 16 May 2017 18:53:44 UTC+1, mechanic wrote:
On Tue, 16 May 2017 03:51:38 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote:

Probably. Always brush first, roller after.

Any explanation as to why that makes a difference?

If you try it both ways you'll find it really does


NT

In message ,
writes
On Tuesday, 16 May 2017 18:53:44 UTC+1, mechanic wrote:

Any explanation as to why that makes a difference?

If you try it both ways you'll find it really does

Funnily enough, I have been using a modern foam roller for the first
time recently. Painting some 1970s wall boards - those awful wood
effect boards, with milled grooves to represent planking. They were
varnished a general wood colour, but are now white. I used three coats
of undercoat before top coating.

Anyway, I had to use a brush to get paint in the grooves, with
inevitable overlap, and then tried brush first and roller first, as well
as rollering over the brush marks, but the paint either side of the
grooves is still discernible. Perhaps not obvious to anyone only seeing
the end result, but I can see the difference. Dulux white paint.
--
Graeme

On Tuesday, May 16, 2017 at 11:22:32 AM UTC+1, Richard Jones wrote:
What's the best way to get a perfectly matched edge zone near ceiling
and skirting boards? I typically end up with a slightly lighter looking
inch or so where I've cut in the paint with a brush vs the main area
painted with a roller.
Am I brushing the paint out thinner than when applied by roller?

It is definitely the texture that makes it look different.
Two things I've tried with reasonable success:

1. Masking tape and then roller right up to the edge.

2. Stipple the painted edge with the brush slightly - usually only for small areas, but it can hide the boundary between the brush and the roller.

Simon.

Graeme wrote:

Anyway, I had to use a brush to get paint in the grooves, with
inevitable overlap, and then tried brush first and roller first, as well
as rollering over the brush marks, but the paint either side of the
grooves is still discernible. Perhaps not obvious to anyone only seeing
the end result, but I can see the difference. Dulux white paint.

After many years of using brushes for gloss, faced with all the
doors in my hall and landing, I thought I would try little foam
rollers. I used the rollers to apply the paint and brushes for
edging and final finish. This gave my the usual finish, but
speeded application quite a bit.

For emulsion, I have long been a fan of paint pads. Wondering if
I could have been wrong I tried one room with a roller. Perhaps I
wasn't getting the right paint consistency, but I won't be doing
it again - it seemed slower than pads for me.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

On 17/05/2017 09:11, sm_jamieson wrote:
On Tuesday, May 16, 2017 at 11:22:32 AM UTC+1, Richard Jones wrote:
What's the best way to get a perfectly matched edge zone near ceiling
and skirting boards? I typically end up with a slightly lighter looking
inch or so where I've cut in the paint with a brush vs the main area
painted with a roller.
Am I brushing the paint out thinner than when applied by roller?

It is definitely the texture that makes it look different.
Two things I've tried with reasonable success:

1. Masking tape and then roller right up to the edge.

2. Stipple the painted edge with the brush slightly - usually only for small areas, but it can hide the boundary between the brush and the roller.

Simon.

Many thanks for all the replies. I'm going with the smooth vs stippled
reasoning as well. Maybe I should use a crappier brush and get a worse
brush finish!