Decided to build a sturdy workbench, specifically to take my chop saw
and saw table.
The saw table often fails to get used as it is so difficult with large
materials €¦.trestle supports often topple. By having a decent width of
table and a long outfeed support of the bench top €¦ should make things a
lot easier.
Basic shape is similar to : http://tinyurl.com/k556y8z

The top will be 2 sheets of ¾€� MDF. Ill edge it with some hardwood
(1/2€� thick or similar) to prevent MDF damage.
Frame is built and finished size is 91€� x 41€� €¦. I used 4x2 for the
rails and for the €˜legs used a 6x2€� and 4x2€� joined in an L shape
with biscuit jointing.
Invested in a KEG pocket hole jig (HD variant) for fixing all the 4x2€�
together €“ impressed with that jointing method €“ really pulls joints
together.

In the link given it shows the top as flush with support frame €¦
wondering whether it might be better to have it overhang a bit €¦ make it
easier for clamping.
I did see one design on line that showed a 5€� overhang €¦.
http://tinyurl.com/lkcrd2w
That might be too much .. maybe 2€� overhang is enough.
Anybody built a similar bench €“ any thoughts?

Also on fitting the top €¦. Think the approach is screw down first sheet
with csk screws into frame €¦. Sturdy fixing. The glue 2nd sheet to
first with PVA. Avoids any screws in the top.
Unless anybody sees flawed logic on this.

On 30/04/17 20:05, rick wrote:
Decided to build a sturdy workbench, specifically to take my chop saw
and saw table.
The saw table often fails to get used as it is so difficult with large
materials €¦.trestle supports often topple. By having a decent width of
table and a long outfeed support of the bench top €¦ should make things a
lot easier.
Basic shape is similar to : http://tinyurl.com/k556y8z

The top will be 2 sheets of ¾€� MDF. Ill edge it with some hardwood
(1/2€� thick or similar) to prevent MDF damage.
Frame is built and finished size is 91€� x 41€� €¦. I used 4x2 for the
rails and for the €˜legs used a 6x2€� and 4x2€� joined in an L shape
with biscuit jointing.
Invested in a KEG pocket hole jig (HD variant) for fixing all the 4x2€�
together €“ impressed with that jointing method €“ really pulls joints
together.

In the link given it shows the top as flush with support frame €¦
wondering whether it might be better to have it overhang a bit €¦ make it
easier for clamping.
I did see one design on line that showed a 5€� overhang €¦.
http://tinyurl.com/lkcrd2w
That might be too much .. maybe 2€� overhang is enough.
Anybody built a similar bench €“ any thoughts?

Also on fitting the top €¦. Think the approach is screw down first sheet
with csk screws into frame €¦. Sturdy fixing. The glue 2nd sheet to
first with PVA. Avoids any screws in the top.
Unless anybody sees flawed logic on this.


Unless you have a press hard to glue two large sheets together.
Suggest screws up from under to compress the glue line.




--
"It is an established fact to 97% confidence limits that left wing
conspirators see right wing conspiracies everywhere"

On 30/04/2017 20:15, The Natural Philosopher wrote:


Unless you have a press hard to glue two large sheets together.
Suggest screws up from under to compress the glue line.

Good idea ... I was going to use a load of clamps ... and some 4X2" on
edge ... to get clamping force along centre line.
Maybe a line of screws along length at 1/3rd in may be better than just
clamps.

On 30/04/17 20:05, rick wrote:
Decided to build a sturdy workbench, specifically to take my chop saw
and saw table.
The saw table often fails to get used as it is so difficult with large
materials €¦.trestle supports often topple. By having a decent width of
table and a long outfeed support of the bench top €¦ should make things a
lot easier.
Basic shape is similar to : http://tinyurl.com/k556y8z

The top will be 2 sheets of ¾€� MDF. Ill edge it with some hardwood
(1/2€� thick or similar) to prevent MDF damage.
Frame is built and finished size is 91€� x 41€� €¦. I used 4x2 for the
rails and for the €˜legs used a 6x2€� and 4x2€� joined in an L shape
with biscuit jointing.
Invested in a KEG pocket hole jig (HD variant) for fixing all the 4x2€�
together €“ impressed with that jointing method €“ really pulls joints
together.

In the link given it shows the top as flush with support frame €¦
wondering whether it might be better to have it overhang a bit €¦ make it
easier for clamping.
I did see one design on line that showed a 5€� overhang €¦.
http://tinyurl.com/lkcrd2w
That might be too much .. maybe 2€� overhang is enough.
Anybody built a similar bench €“ any thoughts?

Also on fitting the top €¦. Think the approach is screw down first sheet
with csk screws into frame €¦. Sturdy fixing. The glue 2nd sheet to
first with PVA. Avoids any screws in the top.
Unless anybody sees flawed logic on this.




I would screw up from bottom into the top sheet. Why?

Mostly, it's good to regard the top sheet as sacrificial - it will get
scored, hacked, drilled and damaged. At some point, you may want to
replace it with a fresh one.

Personally, I would use ply for the top layer too - easier to screw
things like a vice down to. MDF is not so good for taking screws.

On an aside, if you want some inspiration, this is worth watching:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YGjWbqRWx8

(that's the end product - you have to watch the preceding 4 vids to see
the whole process as this guy videos real work and publishes every
couple of days - so a single project tends to take a mini-series of videos)


It's not meant to be a "this is the ultimate" - even he wonders if there
are problems, such as hanging entirely off the wall leading to a less
solid bench - but he talks through some interesting things, such as
majore tool placement and other things he's trying to achieve.

It happens that Tim Watts formulated :
Personally, I would use ply for the top layer too - easier to screw things
like a vice down to. MDF is not so good for taking screws.

Why use screws? Nuts and bolts all the way through, with a spreader
plate under will be completely firm.

On 30/04/2017 20:46, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Why use screws? Nuts and bolts all the way through, with a spreader
plate under will be completely firm.

Because the correct screw won't poke up through the top and get in the way.

Andy

On 30/04/17 20:46, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
It happens that Tim Watts formulated :
Personally, I would use ply for the top layer too - easier to screw
things like a vice down to. MDF is not so good for taking screws.

Why use screws? Nuts and bolts all the way through, with a spreader
plate under will be completely firm.

Well - you may not want not want large metal heads on top that you might
catch with your well honed tools, like your plane.

It's of course very usage dependent - but woodworking benches ideally
have a soft top with minimal hard things.

On 30/04/2017 21:59, Tim Watts wrote:
On 30/04/17 20:46, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
It happens that Tim Watts formulated :
Personally, I would use ply for the top layer too - easier to screw
things like a vice down to. MDF is not so good for taking screws.

Why use screws? Nuts and bolts all the way through, with a spreader
plate under will be completely firm.

Well - you may not want not want large metal heads on top that you might
catch with your well honed tools, like your plane.

It's of course very usage dependent - but woodworking benches ideally
have a soft top with minimal hard things.

Mine is made from 4x2 on end held together with threaded rod and glue or
it was until I did the kitchen out and now its 40 mm thick worktop with
a laminate finish and is now stood up while I decide what to do with it.

In message , Vir
Campestris writes
On 30/04/2017 20:46, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Why use screws? Nuts and bolts all the way through, with a spreader
plate under will be completely firm.

Because the correct screw won't poke up through the top and get in the way.

Needs to be plain shank to pull the gap tight.

--
Tim Lamb

In message , rick
writes
On 30/04/2017 20:15, The Natural Philosopher wrote:


Unless you have a press hard to glue two large sheets together.
Suggest screws up from under to compress the glue line.

Good idea ... I was going to use a load of clamps ... and some 4X2" on
edge ... to get clamping force along centre line.
Maybe a line of screws along length at 1/3rd in may be better than just
clamps.

I acquired a home built work bench from a carpenter. He had taken some
trouble to recess the rear jaw of a normal woodworking vice into the
front of the bench.

Nice job but... any trailing cables over the bench front are trapped by
a straight work piece clamped in the jaws!


--
Tim Lamb

In message , Tim Lamb
writes
In message , Vir
Campestris writes
On 30/04/2017 20:46, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Why use screws? Nuts and bolts all the way through, with a spreader
plate under will be completely firm.

Because the correct screw won't poke up through the top and get in the way.

Needs to be plain shank to pull the gap tight.

I would go for nuts and bolts, with the bolt heads countersunk into the
top of the bench.
--
Graeme

On 01/05/17 11:24, Graeme wrote:
In message , Tim Lamb
writes
In message , Vir
Campestris writes
On 30/04/2017 20:46, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Why use screws? Nuts and bolts all the way through, with a spreader
plate under will be completely firm.

Because the correct screw won't poke up through the top and get in
the way.

Needs to be plain shank to pull the gap tight.

I would go for nuts and bolts, with the bolt heads countersunk into the
top of the bench.
I've never seen so much false information in all my life

Clearance hole in lower board so it WILL pull up tight without needing a
'plain shank' .

Screws so that upper surface is not marked with holes.

Have any of the people above actually ever done any woodwork?


--
"When a true genius appears in the world, you may know him by this sign,
that the dunces are all in confederacy against him."

Jonathan Swift.

On 30/04/17 20:05, rick wrote:
Decided to build a sturdy workbench, specifically to take my chop saw
and saw table.
nip,s

In the link given it shows the top as flush with support frame €¦
wondering whether it might be better to have it overhang a bit €¦ make it
easier for clamping.
I did see one design on line that showed a 5€� overhang €¦.
http://tinyurl.com/lkcrd2w
That might be too much .. maybe 2€� overhang is enough.

I know it's a tool support, but if you envisage sitting at it, go for 5"
(or more) overhang.

Much more comfortable to sit at and allows ye to get closer to what's on
the table without badly arching ya back. My shed workbench was initially
built from an old kitchen worktop without that, I had to repeatedly
stand and lean over to investigate things.

--
Adrian C

In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
I acquired a home built work bench from a carpenter. He had taken some
trouble to recess the rear jaw of a normal woodworking vice into the
front of the bench.

That sounds silly to me. Wouldn't be able to use the jigsaw for a quick
cross cut.

--
*Many people quit looking for work when they find a job *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
I acquired a home built work bench from a carpenter. He had taken some
trouble to recess the rear jaw of a normal woodworking vice into the
front of the bench.

That sounds silly to me. Wouldn't be able to use the jigsaw for a quick
cross cut.

Yes. It is also very adept at pinching an incautious finger.


--
Tim Lamb

On 30/04/2017 20:38, Tim Watts wrote:

I would screw up from bottom into the top sheet. Why?

Mostly, it's good to regard the top sheet as sacrificial - it will get
scored, hacked, drilled and damaged. At some point, you may want to
replace it with a fresh one.



I will have to think about this fixing of top sheet .... the idea of
being replaceable is good -

I want to edge the top in 10mm hardwood to protect the edge ... if that
is glued on .. may make changing top sheet an issue anyway - need to
think it through. Suppose I could glue to top sheet only, run a strip of
pvc tape on edge of lower board to act as a bond breaker for the future
Going for MDF as I wanted flat & smooth ..... I have a separate solid
hardwood work bench with vice, pillar drill etc ... that one gets all
the grunt work.
It will be fully sealed.

On 30/04/2017 21:52, Vir Campestris wrote:
On 30/04/2017 20:46, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Why use screws? Nuts and bolts all the way through, with a spreader
plate under will be completely firm.

Because the correct screw won't poke up through the top and get in the way.

Andy

Didn't want anything 'thru' the sheets as the surface will then be less
than flat.

On 01/05/2017 11:34, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

I've never seen so much false information in all my life

Clearance hole in lower board so it WILL pull up tight without needing a
'plain shank' .

Screws so that upper surface is not marked with holes.

Have any of the people above actually ever done any woodwork?


Agree on this .. probably -round head be good, maybe flange head if I
can find them.

Much more comfortable to sit at and allows ye to get closer to what's on
the table without badly arching ya back. My shed workbench was initially
built from an old kitchen worktop without that, I had to repeatedly
stand and lean over to investigate things.

Understand you point but - this is not a 'sit at bench' for sawing
.... and the odd power tool ....bandsaw, belt/disc sander.

On 01/05/17 16:47, rick wrote:

Much more comfortable to sit at and allows ye to get closer to what's on
the table without badly arching ya back. My shed workbench was initially
built from an old kitchen worktop without that, I had to repeatedly
stand and lean over to investigate things.

Understand you point but - this is not a 'sit at bench' for sawing
... and the odd power tool ....bandsaw, belt/disc sander.


Yup. OK

--
Adrian C

On Sunday, 30 April 2017 20:15:48 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 30/04/17 20:05, rick wrote:
Decided to build a sturdy workbench, specifically to take my chop saw
and saw table.
The saw table often fails to get used as it is so difficult with large
materials €¦.trestle supports often topple. By having a decent width of
table and a long outfeed support of the bench top €¦ should make things a
lot easier.
Basic shape is similar to : http://tinyurl.com/k556y8z

The top will be 2 sheets of ¾€� MDF. Ill edge it with some hardwood
(1/2€� thick or similar) to prevent MDF damage.
Frame is built and finished size is 91€� x 41€� €¦. I used 4x2 for the
rails and for the €˜legs used a 6x2€� and 4x2€� joined in an L shape
with biscuit jointing.
Invested in a KEG pocket hole jig (HD variant) for fixing all the 4x2€�
together €“ impressed with that jointing method €“ really pulls joints
together.

In the link given it shows the top as flush with support frame €¦
wondering whether it might be better to have it overhang a bit €¦ make it
easier for clamping.
I did see one design on line that showed a 5€� overhang €¦.
http://tinyurl.com/lkcrd2w
That might be too much .. maybe 2€� overhang is enough.
Anybody built a similar bench €“ any thoughts?

Also on fitting the top €¦. Think the approach is screw down first sheet
with csk screws into frame €¦. Sturdy fixing. The glue 2nd sheet to
first with PVA. Avoids any screws in the top.
Unless anybody sees flawed logic on this.


Unless you have a press hard to glue two large sheets together.
Suggest screws up from under to compress the glue line.




--
"It is an established fact to 97% confidence limits that left wing
conspirators see right wing conspiracies everywhere"

Or put on flat surface and put concrete blocks on top of glued assembly.

"harry" wrote in message
...


--
"It is an established fact to 97% confidence limits that left wing
conspirators see right wing conspiracies everywhere"

Or put on flat surface and put concrete blocks on top of glued assembly.

I suppose that's one way to deal with those pesky conspirators. Just make
sure no-one is watching.

On 04/05/17 08:56, Richard wrote:
"harry" wrote in message
...


--
"It is an established fact to 97% confidence limits that left wing
conspirators see right wing conspiracies everywhere"

Or put on flat surface and put concrete blocks on top of glued assembly.

I suppose that's one way to deal with those pesky conspirators. Just
make sure no-one is watching.
If only one could


--
"It is an established fact to 97% confidence limits that left wing
conspirators see right wing conspiracies everywhere"

On Monday, May 1, 2017 at 8:25:23 PM UTC+1, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
On 01/05/17 16:47, rick wrote:

Much more comfortable to sit at and allows ye to get closer to what's on
the table without badly arching ya back. My shed workbench was initially
built from an old kitchen worktop without that, I had to repeatedly
stand and lean over to investigate things.

Understand you point but - this is not a 'sit at bench' for sawing
... and the odd power tool ....bandsaw, belt/disc sander.


Yup. OK

--
Adrian C

Screw the bottom sheet to the top with plenty of glue between them. Once the bond is good remove the screws. Fill in the screw holes if you're fussy but at least you won't be bothered about unwanted metal.

Personally I'd glue it up and lay a lot of concrete bloscks on top to ensure a good bond

On 5/1/2017 8:25 PM, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
On 01/05/17 16:47, rick wrote:

Much more comfortable to sit at and allows ye to get closer to what's on
the table without badly arching ya back. My shed workbench was initially
built from an old kitchen worktop without that, I had to repeatedly
stand and lean over to investigate things.

Understand you point but - this is not a 'sit at bench' for sawing
... and the odd power tool ....bandsaw, belt/disc sander.


Yup. OK

Still worth having a bit of an overhang, first it does let you get a bit
closer to stuff without bending your back so much, second it gives you
something to clamp either tools or workpieces down.

For example some of my tools (mitre saw, disk/belt sander, chop saw)
already live on baseboards so that they can be used elsewhere on a workmate.