They cannot be seen to be supplying parts to non-expert people in case they
injure themselves.Parts are classsified as "User serviceable" or not
Things like hobs get all sorts of brand names stuck on them from time to
time - same with kettles, toasters, etc. Some are a short run to use up
stocks.

Unless you can get a sleeve in then I doubt you could do much. Is it that
hard to gain access and change the control?
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"James Harris" wrote in message
news
I have a hob where one of the control potentiometers has a shaft which is,
unfortunately, broken flush with the surface, as at

http://pensites.com/jh/direct_media/...l-broken-1.png

Do you reckon that the shaft could be repaired? I have the other bit of it
but I very much doubt that I could get a bond which was strong enough.

Anyone tried something like this and found a way to bond the two parts of
the broken shaft back together?


--
James Harris

On 08/04/2017 10:12, Brian Gaff wrote:

Unless you can get a sleeve in then I doubt you could do much. Is it that
hard to gain access and change the control?

Getting access is easy. Identifying the part is easy. But I couldn't
find a retail replacement. Here's the energy regulator:

http://pensites.com/jh/direct_media/...ol-label-1.png

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find a replacement either from that
label or via the hob's model number. There are spare parts for the hob
but only external ones like knobs, plates and fixings.

The broken bit of the switch is a custom part:
http://pensites.com/jh/direct_media/...l-switch-1.png. So it
looks like I'll have to try to repair the shaft.

--
James Harris

On 08/04/17 11:57, James Harris wrote:
On 08/04/2017 10:12, Brian Gaff wrote:

Unless you can get a sleeve in then I doubt you could do much. Is it that
hard to gain access and change the control?

Getting access is easy. Identifying the part is easy. But I couldn't
find a retail replacement. Here's the energy regulator:

http://pensites.com/jh/direct_media/...ol-label-1.png

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find a replacement either from that
label or via the hob's model number. There are spare parts for the hob
but only external ones like knobs, plates and fixings.

Well I found the switch, but its as a minimum order of 1000 pcs shipped
from China. :-)

https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...393532510.html

You could contact the manufacturer

http://www.alone.cn/zxdde.htm


The broken bit of the switch is a custom part:
http://pensites.com/jh/direct_media/...l-switch-1.png. So it
looks like I'll have to try to repair the shaft.


Or work out what the switch does and but something that performs the
same function.

I assume its just a switch 1,2,3, or all together type of control???



Basically you have been caught in the 'well it was cheap chinky crap and
its broked' trap.

If its just a hub, buy a new one. From a manufacture who DOES do spares,


--
Gun Control: The law that ensures that only criminals have guns.

On 07/04/17 17:37, James Harris wrote:
I have a hob where one of the control potentiometers has a shaft which
is, unfortunately, broken flush with the surface, as at

http://pensites.com/jh/direct_media/...l-broken-1.png

Do you reckon that the shaft could be repaired? I have the other bit of
it but I very much doubt that I could get a bond which was strong enough.

Anyone tried something like this and found a way to bond the two parts
of the broken shaft back together?


Summing up, this cheap piece of chinese POS cab be replaced fore less
than 70 quid

It's this isn't it?

http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/househo...17610-pdt.html

And you are too ashamed to admit it. :-)


--
"When one man dies it's a tragedy. When thousands die it's statistics."

Josef Stalin

On 08/04/17 12:34, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 07/04/17 17:37, James Harris wrote:
I have a hob where one of the control potentiometers has a shaft which
is, unfortunately, broken flush with the surface, as at

http://pensites.com/jh/direct_media/...l-broken-1.png

Do you reckon that the shaft could be repaired? I have the other bit of
it but I very much doubt that I could get a bond which was strong enough.

Anyone tried something like this and found a way to bond the two parts
of the broken shaft back together?


Summing up, this cheap piece of chinese POS cab be replaced fore less
than 70 quid

It's this isn't it?

http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/househo...17610-pdt.html


And you are too ashamed to admit it. :-)


If it is curry's, take it back if within warranty and complain.
Assuming its your home, buy something better. Ceramic or induction.



--
"Corbyn talks about equality, justice, opportunity, health care, peace,
community, compassion, investment, security, housing...."
"What kind of person is not interested in those things?"

"Jeremy Corbyn?"

On 08/04/2017 12:38, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 08/04/17 12:34, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 07/04/17 17:37, James Harris wrote:
I have a hob where one of the control potentiometers has a shaft which
is, unfortunately, broken flush with the surface, as at

http://pensites.com/jh/direct_media/...l-broken-1.png

Do you reckon that the shaft could be repaired? I have the other bit of
it but I very much doubt that I could get a bond which was strong
enough.

Anyone tried something like this and found a way to bond the two parts
of the broken shaft back together?


Summing up, this cheap piece of chinese POS cab be replaced fore less
than 70 quid

It's this isn't it?

http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/househo...17610-pdt.html



And you are too ashamed to admit it. :-)


If it is curry's, take it back if within warranty and complain.
Assuming its your home, buy something better. Ceramic or induction.

Don't Currys have an obligation to keep parts for a while?

On 08/04/2017 13:05, GB wrote:
On 08/04/2017 12:38, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 08/04/17 12:34, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 07/04/17 17:37, James Harris wrote:
I have a hob where one of the control potentiometers has a shaft which
is, unfortunately, broken flush with the surface, as at

http://pensites.com/jh/direct_media/...l-broken-1.png

Do you reckon that the shaft could be repaired? I have the other bit of
it but I very much doubt that I could get a bond which was strong
enough.

Anyone tried something like this and found a way to bond the two parts
of the broken shaft back together?


Summing up, this cheap piece of chinese POS cab be replaced fore less
than 70 quid

It's this isn't it?

http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/househo...17610-pdt.html




And you are too ashamed to admit it. :-)


If it is curry's, take it back if within warranty and complain.
Assuming its your home, buy something better. Ceramic or induction.

Don't Currys have an obligation to keep parts for a while?

Currys referred me to Partmaster (or someone similar) but the parts
supplier only keeps the external gubbins, not the hob's internals.

Still, looks like the problem is solved. :-)

--
James Harris

On 08/04/2017 12:38, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 08/04/17 12:34, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 07/04/17 17:37, James Harris wrote:
I have a hob where one of the control potentiometers has a shaft which
is, unfortunately, broken flush with the surface, as at

http://pensites.com/jh/direct_media/...l-broken-1.png

Do you reckon that the shaft could be repaired? I have the other bit of
it but I very much doubt that I could get a bond which was strong
enough.

Anyone tried something like this and found a way to bond the two parts
of the broken shaft back together?


Summing up, this cheap piece of chinese POS cab be replaced fore less
than 70 quid

It's this isn't it?

http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/househo...17610-pdt.html



And you are too ashamed to admit it. :-)


If it is curry's, take it back if within warranty and complain.
Assuming its your home, buy something better. Ceramic or induction.

It's a cheap hob for short term use.


--
James Harris

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 07/04/17 17:37, James Harris wrote:
I have a hob where one of the control potentiometers has a shaft which
is, unfortunately, broken flush with the surface, as at

http://pensites.com/jh/direct_media/...l-broken-1.png

Do you reckon that the shaft could be repaired? I have the other bit of
it but I very much doubt that I could get a bond which was strong enough.

Anyone tried something like this and found a way to bond the two parts
of the broken shaft back together?


Summing up, this cheap piece of chinese POS cab be replaced fore less
than 70 quid

It's this isn't it?

http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/househo...17610-pdt.html


And you are too ashamed to admit it. :-)


The power control will be done with some sort of combination of series
parallel connections of the element driven by the cams on that shaft

Work out the switch setting for maximum power and hard wire it to that
combination using crimps if needed (NOT choc block!!) and then fit a
conventional mark-space thermal energy regulator. using a spare part for
another hob. Should be about a tenner.

Instead of the six positions you will get an analogue continuously
variable control of the power to the ring from 0 to 100%

On 08/04/2017 12:34, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 07/04/17 17:37, James Harris wrote:
I have a hob where one of the control potentiometers has a shaft which
is, unfortunately, broken flush with the surface, as at

http://pensites.com/jh/direct_media/...l-broken-1.png

Do you reckon that the shaft could be repaired? I have the other bit of
it but I very much doubt that I could get a bond which was strong enough.

Anyone tried something like this and found a way to bond the two parts
of the broken shaft back together?


Summing up, this cheap piece of chinese POS cab be replaced fore less
than 70 quid

It's this isn't it?

http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/househo...17610-pdt.html

Yes it is! I can't think how you got from the part to the hob when even
spares websites don't seem to relate one to the other. You must have
Sherlock powers!



And you are too ashamed to admit it. :-)

It's definitely not the most salubrious hob! But it is the one which is
broken. Maybe I won't admit it after all. ;-)


--
James Harris

On 08/04/17 20:32, James Harris wrote:
On 08/04/2017 12:34, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 07/04/17 17:37, James Harris wrote:
I have a hob where one of the control potentiometers has a shaft which
is, unfortunately, broken flush with the surface, as at

http://pensites.com/jh/direct_media/...l-broken-1.png

Do you reckon that the shaft could be repaired? I have the other bit of
it but I very much doubt that I could get a bond which was strong
enough.

Anyone tried something like this and found a way to bond the two parts
of the broken shaft back together?


Summing up, this cheap piece of chinese POS cab be replaced fore less
than 70 quid

It's this isn't it?

http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/househo...17610-pdt.html


Yes it is! I can't think how you got from the part to the hob when even
spares websites don't seem to relate one to the other. You must have
Sherlock powers!

well almost every European cooker has spares, so had to be a cheap
chinky import to break like that so I looked at the cheapest hob from
the crappiest white goods supplier and it matched your photos exactly



And you are too ashamed to admit it. :-)

It's definitely not the most salubrious hob! But it is the one which is
broken. Maybe I won't admit it after all. ;-)


Well someone found the exact spare at £13.49 or summat.


--
No Apple devices were knowingly used in the preparation of this post.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

On 08/04/17 20:32, James Harris wrote:
On 08/04/2017 12:34, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 07/04/17 17:37, James Harris wrote:
I have a hob where one of the control potentiometers has a shaft which
is, unfortunately, broken flush with the surface, as at

http://pensites.com/jh/direct_media/...l-broken-1.png

Do you reckon that the shaft could be repaired? I have the other bit of
it but I very much doubt that I could get a bond which was strong
enough.

Anyone tried something like this and found a way to bond the two parts
of the broken shaft back together?


Summing up, this cheap piece of chinese POS cab be replaced fore less
than 70 quid

It's this isn't it?


http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/househo...hobs/essential
s-csphobw15-electric-solid-plate-hob-white-10117610-pdt.html


Yes it is! I can't think how you got from the part to the hob when even
spares websites don't seem to relate one to the other. You must have
Sherlock powers!

well almost every European cooker has spares, so had to be a cheap
chinky import to break like that so I looked at the cheapest hob from
the crappiest white goods supplier and it matched your photos exactly
snip

My concern with any repair is that the plastic the part is made of looks
to be some cheese-like material which appears to be keen to become loose
sawdust.


--

Roger Hayter

On 08/04/17 23:50, Roger Hayter wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

On 08/04/17 20:32, James Harris wrote:
On 08/04/2017 12:34, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 07/04/17 17:37, James Harris wrote:
I have a hob where one of the control potentiometers has a shaft which
is, unfortunately, broken flush with the surface, as at

http://pensites.com/jh/direct_media/...l-broken-1.png

Do you reckon that the shaft could be repaired? I have the other bit of
it but I very much doubt that I could get a bond which was strong
enough.

Anyone tried something like this and found a way to bond the two parts
of the broken shaft back together?


Summing up, this cheap piece of chinese POS cab be replaced fore less
than 70 quid

It's this isn't it?


http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/househo...hobs/essential
s-csphobw15-electric-solid-plate-hob-white-10117610-pdt.html


Yes it is! I can't think how you got from the part to the hob when even
spares websites don't seem to relate one to the other. You must have
Sherlock powers!

well almost every European cooker has spares, so had to be a cheap
chinky import to break like that so I looked at the cheapest hob from
the crappiest white goods supplier and it matched your photos exactly
snip

My concern with any repair is that the plastic the part is made of looks
to be some cheese-like material which appears to be keen to become loose
sawdust.


Well now you know where all the recycled plastic waste we export to
China ends up. When we could have burnt it for power in incinerators
instead.

It's strange how high entropy mixtures always tend towards the color
**** brown.


--
Theres a mighty big difference between good, sound reasons and reasons
that sound good.

Burton Hillis (William Vaughn, American columnist)

On 07/04/2017 17:37, James Harris wrote:
I have a hob where one of the control potentiometers has a shaft which
is, unfortunately, broken flush with the surface, as at

http://pensites.com/jh/direct_media/...l-broken-1.png

Do you reckon that the shaft could be repaired? I have the other bit of
it but I very much doubt that I could get a bond which was strong enough.

Anyone tried something like this and found a way to bond the two parts
of the broken shaft back together?

Much as I like repairs, there is a saying for your pot. "It's ****ed"

Buy a new one and stop messing about.


--
Adam

"ARW" wrote in message
news
On 07/04/2017 17:37, James Harris wrote:
I have a hob where one of the control potentiometers has a shaft which
is, unfortunately, broken flush with the surface, as at

http://pensites.com/jh/direct_media/...l-broken-1.png

Do you reckon that the shaft could be repaired? I have the other bit of
it but I very much doubt that I could get a bond which was strong enough.

Anyone tried something like this and found a way to bond the two parts
of the broken shaft back together?

Much as I like repairs, there is a saying for your pot. "It's ****ed"

Buy a new one and stop messing about.


As this is a DIY group, that's not allowed!

I have the idea of using a 1/4" plastic shaft (with flat) from a scrap
control, of a material that looks like it's strong enough e.g. nylon rather
than your Aero chocolate lookalike. Metal would be dangerous. Cut the shaft
long enough to go all the way from the bottom of the switch to the inside of
the knob and file the flat all the way down it. Somehow make a D-shaped hole
through the entire rotor to fit the new shaft. It probably won't matter if
the cams break apart.

I think there must be three elements in the hotplate, of powers 1, 2, 3
sixths of 1kW. The switch must have at least three pairs of contacts, and as
the knob is turned from 0 to 6, the contacts close in the following pattern:
123
-----
0 000
1 100
2 010
3 001
4 101
5 011
6 111
Your rotor seems to have five cams and the switch 5 pairs of contacts, but 2
of them don't contribute. It would be nice to see where the wires go. Brown
is probably Live and goes to the common connection of the three elements.
Blue, Black and White go to the other ends. The star cam at the top of your
photo is for the click stop.
--
Dave W

On 09/04/2017 18:37, Dave W wrote:
"ARW" wrote in message
news

....

Buy a new one and stop messing about.


As this is a DIY group, that's not allowed!

I have the idea of using a 1/4" plastic shaft (with flat) from a scrap
control, of a material that looks like it's strong enough e.g. nylon rather
than your Aero chocolate lookalike. Metal would be dangerous. Cut the shaft
long enough to go all the way from the bottom of the switch to the inside of
the knob and file the flat all the way down it. Somehow make a D-shaped hole
through the entire rotor to fit the new shaft. It probably won't matter if
the cams break apart.

I think there must be three elements in the hotplate, of powers 1, 2, 3
sixths of 1kW. The switch must have at least three pairs of contacts, and as
the knob is turned from 0 to 6, the contacts close in the following pattern:
123
-----
0 000
1 100
2 010
3 001
4 101
5 011
6 111
Your rotor seems to have five cams and the switch 5 pairs of contacts, but 2
of them don't contribute. It would be nice to see where the wires go. Brown
is probably Live and goes to the common connection of the three elements.
Blue, Black and White go to the other ends. The star cam at the top of your
photo is for the click stop.

Fascinating analysis! You could well be right.


--
James Harris

ARW has brought this to us :
Much as I like repairs, there is a saying for your pot. "It's ****ed"

Buy a new one and stop messing about.

But, where is the DIY fun, learning experience and end satisfaction in
that?

On 10/04/2017 09:53, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
ARW has brought this to us :
Much as I like repairs, there is a saying for your pot. "It's ****ed"

Buy a new one and stop messing about.

But, where is the DIY fun, learning experience and end satisfaction in
that?

By all means try to fix is, but some jobs just need a new part.

--
Adam