Among many other swathes of rotten wood (wood rot, wet rot, mould) I had to have replaced (basically all the wood on ground floor), I had the door frames replaced. This caused some of the plaster around the frames to "blow". I will have the walls lined with 800/1200 paper as it is pretty rough over the whole surface but I decided to "knock out" the absolutely worst parts of the plaster around the frame.

My question is about how to finish the job, given the wall will be lined with fairly heavy paper to disguise the irregularities.

So far I took off the loose plaster, PVA's the bricks and have put on a layer of bonding plaster. Pictures show where I am up to:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...WM?usp=sharing

Should I bring up (out?) the level using some more bonding then apply a thin layer (say 2mm) of multi-finish left over by the builder, or should I put multi-finish (about 4mm) directly on top of my first layer of bonding and level the surface as best I can? Should I PVA the layer of dry bonding plaster?

Thanks,

Clive

On 06/01/17 20:34, wrote:
Among many other swathes of rotten wood (wood rot, wet rot, mould) I had to have replaced (basically all the wood on ground floor), I had the door frames replaced. This caused some of the plaster around the frames to "blow". I will have the walls lined with 800/1200 paper as it is pretty rough over the whole surface but I decided to "knock out" the absolutely worst parts of the plaster around the frame.

My question is about how to finish the job, given the wall will be lined with fairly heavy paper to disguise the irregularities.

So far I took off the loose plaster, PVA's the bricks and have put on a layer of bonding plaster. Pictures show where I am up to:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...WM?usp=sharing

Should I bring up (out?) the level using some more bonding then apply a thin layer (say 2mm) of multi-finish left over by the builder, or should I put multi-finish (about 4mm) directly on top of my first layer of bonding and level the surface as best I can? Should I PVA the layer of dry bonding plaster?

Thanks,

Clive


any of the above

On 1/6/2017 6:41 PM, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 06/01/17 20:34, wrote:
Among many other swathes of rotten wood (wood rot, wet rot, mould) I
had to have replaced (basically all the wood on ground floor), I had
the door frames replaced. This caused some of the plaster around the
frames to "blow". I will have the walls lined with 800/1200 paper as
it is pretty rough over the whole surface but I decided to "knock out"
the absolutely worst parts of the plaster around the frame.

My question is about how to finish the job, given the wall will be
lined with fairly heavy paper to disguise the irregularities.

So far I took off the loose plaster, PVA's the bricks and have put on
a layer of bonding plaster. Pictures show where I am up to:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...WM?usp=sharing


Should I bring up (out?) the level using some more bonding then apply
a thin layer (say 2mm) of multi-finish left over by the builder, or
should I put multi-finish (about 4mm) directly on top of my first
layer of bonding and level the surface as best I can? Should I PVA the
layer of dry bonding plaster?

Thanks,

Clive


any of the above

If you've got some bonding available, personally I would use some more
of that first. But I wouldn't buy it specially if you have plenty of
multi finish.

You don't need PVA, just wet the bonding first.

In article ,
writes:
Among many other swathes of rotten wood (wood rot, wet rot, mould) I had to=
have replaced (basically all the wood on ground floor), I had the door fra=
mes replaced. This caused some of the plaster around the frames to "blow". =
I will have the walls lined with 800/1200 paper as it is pretty rough over =
the whole surface but I decided to "knock out" the absolutely worst parts o=
f the plaster around the frame.

My question is about how to finish the job, given the wall will be lined wi=
th fairly heavy paper to disguise the irregularities.

So far I took off the loose plaster, PVA's the bricks and have put on a lay=
er of bonding plaster. Pictures show where I am up to:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...lpeWM?usp=3Ds=
haring

Should I bring up (out?) the level using some more bonding then apply a thi=
n layer (say 2mm) of multi-finish left over by the builder, or should I put=
multi-finish (about 4mm) directly on top of my first layer of bonding and =
level the surface as best I can?

Either, but you will find it easier to level the final coat the thinner
it is (ideally 2mm).

Should I PVA the layer of dry bonding plaster?

Yes. You need PVA if the layer underneath is completely set.

I would take the architrave off the door frame to make it easier to
level the plaster, and put it back on afterwards. Small areas like
this can be hard to finish nicely.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 06/01/2017 18:56, newshound wrote:
On 1/6/2017 6:41 PM, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 06/01/17 20:34, wrote:
Among many other swathes of rotten wood (wood rot, wet rot, mould) I
had to have replaced (basically all the wood on ground floor), I had
the door frames replaced. This caused some of the plaster around the
frames to "blow". I will have the walls lined with 800/1200 paper as
it is pretty rough over the whole surface but I decided to "knock out"
the absolutely worst parts of the plaster around the frame.

My question is about how to finish the job, given the wall will be
lined with fairly heavy paper to disguise the irregularities.

So far I took off the loose plaster, PVA's the bricks and have put on
a layer of bonding plaster. Pictures show where I am up to:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...WM?usp=sharing



Should I bring up (out?) the level using some more bonding then apply
a thin layer (say 2mm) of multi-finish left over by the builder, or
should I put multi-finish (about 4mm) directly on top of my first
layer of bonding and level the surface as best I can? Should I PVA the
layer of dry bonding plaster?

Thanks,

Clive


any of the above

If you've got some bonding available, personally I would use some more
of that first. But I wouldn't buy it specially if you have plenty of
multi finish.

You don't need PVA, just wet the bonding first.

+1 give it a good soaking!


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 06/01/17 18:34, wrote:
Among many other swathes of rotten wood (wood rot, wet rot, mould) I had to have replaced (basically all the wood on ground floor), I had the door frames replaced. This caused some of the plaster around the frames to "blow". I will have the walls lined with 800/1200 paper as it is pretty rough over the whole surface but I decided to "knock out" the absolutely worst parts of the plaster around the frame.

My question is about how to finish the job, given the wall will be lined with fairly heavy paper to disguise the irregularities.

So far I took off the loose plaster, PVA's the bricks and have put on a layer of bonding plaster. Pictures show where I am up to:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...WM?usp=sharing

Should I bring up (out?) the level using some more bonding then apply a thin layer (say 2mm) of multi-finish left over by the builder, or should I put multi-finish (about 4mm) directly on top of my first layer of bonding and level the surface as best I can? Should I PVA the layer of dry bonding plaster?

Thanks,

Clive


You've done the right thing. But you need to (as you thought) fix it so
you are down to 2-3 mm of finishing coat. One way is to fill it level,
then when it's only just set, scrape it back out a bit with a triangle
paint scraper. Bonding is pretty soft usually and should scrape easily,
especially when only just setting. Try a scrape on what you have to
verify - undercoat plasters do vary.

On 1/6/2017 7:08 PM, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
writes:
Among many other swathes of rotten wood (wood rot, wet rot, mould) I had to=
have replaced (basically all the wood on ground floor), I had the door fra=
mes replaced. This caused some of the plaster around the frames to "blow". =
I will have the walls lined with 800/1200 paper as it is pretty rough over =
the whole surface but I decided to "knock out" the absolutely worst parts o=
f the plaster around the frame.

My question is about how to finish the job, given the wall will be lined wi=
th fairly heavy paper to disguise the irregularities.

So far I took off the loose plaster, PVA's the bricks and have put on a lay=
er of bonding plaster. Pictures show where I am up to:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...lpeWM?usp=3Ds=
haring

Should I bring up (out?) the level using some more bonding then apply a thi=
n layer (say 2mm) of multi-finish left over by the builder, or should I put=
multi-finish (about 4mm) directly on top of my first layer of bonding and =
level the surface as best I can?

Either, but you will find it easier to level the final coat the thinner
it is (ideally 2mm).

Should I PVA the layer of dry bonding plaster?

Yes. You need PVA if the layer underneath is completely set.

Doesn't do any harm, but on fresh bonding with plenty of texture?

I would take the architrave off the door frame to make it easier to
level the plaster, and put it back on afterwards. Small areas like
this can be hard to finish nicely.


Very good point.

In article ,
newshound writes:
On 1/6/2017 7:08 PM, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
writes:
Among many other swathes of rotten wood (wood rot, wet rot, mould) I had to=
have replaced (basically all the wood on ground floor), I had the door fra=
mes replaced. This caused some of the plaster around the frames to "blow". =
I will have the walls lined with 800/1200 paper as it is pretty rough over =
the whole surface but I decided to "knock out" the absolutely worst parts o=
f the plaster around the frame.

My question is about how to finish the job, given the wall will be lined wi=
th fairly heavy paper to disguise the irregularities.

So far I took off the loose plaster, PVA's the bricks and have put on a lay=
er of bonding plaster. Pictures show where I am up to:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...lpeWM?usp=3Ds=
haring

Should I bring up (out?) the level using some more bonding then apply a thi=
n layer (say 2mm) of multi-finish left over by the builder, or should I put=
multi-finish (about 4mm) directly on top of my first layer of bonding and =
level the surface as best I can?

Either, but you will find it easier to level the final coat the thinner
it is (ideally 2mm).

Should I PVA the layer of dry bonding plaster?

Yes. You need PVA if the layer underneath is completely set.

Doesn't do any harm, but on fresh bonding with plenty of texture?

It was a simplistic comment when there are really several issues.
What will bond the coats together: plaster if previous coat
isn't set, or having just the right amount of suction between
coats so the new one is sucked into the surface of the previous
one without drying it so much it won't set, or bonding agent (PVA0.

It's not fresh in the sense that he said it's dry, and will be
completely set. Bonding coat that's still wet would be OK, as
it contains a small amount of PVA (that's the 'bonding' bit).

Ideally, you put the next coat on before the previous coat is
completely set, which will make the plaster itself bond. With
bonding coat underneath, you can extend this to plastering before
it's dry, as the PVA in the bonding will bond on a finish coat.
However, once it's dried (which is long after it's set), it will
need something to stop it sucking the water out before the new
coat can set - either PVA or wetting the previous coat just
enough (but not too much, or that will also stop it bonding).

I would take the architrave off the door frame to make it easier to
level the plaster, and put it back on afterwards. Small areas like
this can be hard to finish nicely.


Very good point.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Fri, 6 Jan 2017 10:34:18 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Among many other swathes of rotten wood (wood rot, wet rot, mould) I had to have replaced (basically all the wood on ground floor), I had the door frames replaced. This caused some of the plaster around the frames to "blow". I will have the walls lined with 800/1200 paper as it is pretty rough over the whole surface but I decided to "knock out" the absolutely worst parts of the plaster around the frame.

My question is about how to finish the job, given the wall will be lined with fairly heavy paper to disguise the irregularities.

So far I took off the loose plaster, PVA's the bricks and have put on a layer of bonding plaster. Pictures show where I am up to:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...WM?usp=sharing

Should I bring up (out?) the level using some more bonding then apply a thin layer (say 2mm) of multi-finish left over by the builder, or should I put multi-finish (about 4mm) directly on top of my first layer of bonding and level the surface as best I can? Should I PVA the layer of dry bonding plaster?

Thanks,

Clive
Others have replied to your question about plastering, but from my
experience with my Victorian house I'd use 1400 grade lining paper,
much better at hiding irregularites, and no more difficult to hang
(just let it soak a bit longer after pasting and before hanging).
Sheds around here don't stock it, but proper decorating suppliers will
(eg. Dulus Trade Centre).

To everyone, thanks for the information. I can get hold of 1400 lining paper so I will go for that - because even though the walls are a bit irregular, it would be nice to get a reasonable finish without having every wall and ceiling in the house replastered (It is getting close to that).

Clive

wrote:

I can get hold of 1400 lining paper so I will go for that - because
even though the walls are a bit irregular, it would be nice to get a
reasonable finish without having every wall and ceiling in the house
replastered

I'm not sure how grades of lining paper compare between manufacturers?

I samples of Wallrock Fibreliner and FibrelinerPlus, the latter seemed a
noticeably better surface finish if you're going to paint over it rather
than wallpaper it.

Toolsatan stock the non-plus version, but I don't think they stock the
plus version.

On 06/01/2017 21:03, John Rumm wrote:
On 06/01/2017 18:56, newshound wrote:
On 1/6/2017 6:41 PM, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 06/01/17 20:34, wrote:
Among many other swathes of rotten wood (wood rot, wet rot, mould) I
had to have replaced (basically all the wood on ground floor), I had
the door frames replaced. This caused some of the plaster around the
frames to "blow". I will have the walls lined with 800/1200 paper as
it is pretty rough over the whole surface but I decided to "knock out"
the absolutely worst parts of the plaster around the frame.

My question is about how to finish the job, given the wall will be
lined with fairly heavy paper to disguise the irregularities.

So far I took off the loose plaster, PVA's the bricks and have put on
a layer of bonding plaster. Pictures show where I am up to:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...WM?usp=sharing




Should I bring up (out?) the level using some more bonding then apply
a thin layer (say 2mm) of multi-finish left over by the builder, or
should I put multi-finish (about 4mm) directly on top of my first
layer of bonding and level the surface as best I can? Should I PVA the
layer of dry bonding plaster?

Thanks,

Clive


any of the above

If you've got some bonding available, personally I would use some more
of that first. But I wouldn't buy it specially if you have plenty of
multi finish.

You don't need PVA, just wet the bonding first.

+1 give it a good soaking!

Hmm, most plasters love partially dry or drying PVA. Having said that I
guess the irregularities of the bonding coat should be sufficient.

Agreed about wetting the bonding coat, otherwise the topcoat will harden
directly on contact through leeching of water.

On 07/01/17 17:04, Fredxxx wrote:
Agreed about wetting the bonding coat, otherwise the topcoat will harden
directly on contact through leeching of water.
leaching....

On 1/7/2017 4:58 PM, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 07/01/17 17:04, Fredxxx wrote:
Agreed about wetting the bonding coat, otherwise the topcoat will harden
directly on contact through leeching of water.
leaching....

I don't know, doesn't the word "leeching" work as well? Perhaps even
slightly better, since it contains an implication of suction, whereas in
true "leaching" isn't the process really the transport of a solid by a
liquid phase?

:-)

in a similar situation to your photos
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...WRxOFdMbXlpeWM
today i'm sticking plasterboard offcuts to the wall with firefoam
and lining them up level with the surface until the foam sets,
then in a few days
i'll fill in the gaps and skim over the top

[george]

On Monday, January 9, 2017 at 2:19:01 PM UTC, DICEGEORGE wrote:
in a similar situation to your photos
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...WRxOFdMbXlpeWM
today i'm sticking plasterboard offcuts to the wall with firefoam
and lining them up level with the surface until the foam sets,
then in a few days
i'll fill in the gaps and skim over the top

[george]

see my photo at https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...109_144505.jpg

(i may use a mixture of lime and sand to patch the crack between plasterboard and old plaster, so that if in the distant future the roof leaks this will become apparent quicker with blck mould on the bedroom wall... )
[George]