I've been looking to get a multi-tool for a while and never quite found
the need, not even for an ALDI special but in our local Homebase on
Friday there was a mountain of Worx Sonicrafter F30's on clearance.
£40 with a wood blade, a wood/metal blade and a detail sander head +
wodge of sandery sunderies.

Dunno if it's a nationwide stock thing or just our local branch but for
that price the temptation was too great.

Just need some suggestions for the most useful blades to add to it now.

Cheers
Pete

On Thursday, 24 November 2016 20:45:02 UTC, www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
I've been looking to get a multi-tool for a while and never quite found
the need, not even for an ALDI special but in our local Homebase on
Friday there was a mountain of Worx Sonicrafter F30's on clearance.
£40 with a wood blade, a wood/metal blade and a detail sander head +
wodge of sandery sunderies.

Dunno if it's a nationwide stock thing or just our local branch but for
that price the temptation was too great.

Just need some suggestions for the most useful blades to add to it now.

Cheers
Pete

Aldi have blade packs for them in stock now.


NT

www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:

in our local Homebase on
Friday there was a mountain of Worx Sonicrafter

The new owners do like to pile stuff up in every available space don't
they? Including a pallet-load of plasterboard right in the doorway
where it is was certain to get bashed by a trolley ...

On 24/11/2016 20:48, wrote:

Aldi have blade packs for them in stock now.

Brilliant.

I'll pop in tomorrow.
Cheers
Pete

On 24/11/2016 20:44, www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
I've been looking to get a multi-tool for a while and never quite found
the need, not even for an ALDI special but in our local Homebase on
Friday there was a mountain of Worx Sonicrafter F30's on clearance.
£40 with a wood blade, a wood/metal blade and a detail sander head +
wodge of sandery sunderies.

Dunno if it's a nationwide stock thing or just our local branch but for
that price the temptation was too great.

Just need some suggestions for the most useful blades to add to it now.

Cheers
Pete


The most useful are large round wood/metal blades and plunge cut
wood/metal blades. Taking up floor boards is one a multicutters best
tricks.

On 24/11/2016 21:07, MrCheerful wrote:

The most useful are large round wood/metal blades and plunge cut
wood/metal blades. Taking up floor boards is one a multicutters best
tricks.

I've butchered a lot of floorboards in my time. Ether mashed up with a
chisel or cut into the neighboring boards with a circular saw.

I was watching a video of someone laying rubber flooring with one the
other week.
He used a round blade and whipped through the tiles with ease. No
messing around with straight edges and a Stanly knife.

In article ,
www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
On 24/11/2016 21:07, MrCheerful wrote:

The most useful are large round wood/metal blades and plunge cut
wood/metal blades. Taking up floor boards is one a multicutters best
tricks.

I've butchered a lot of floorboards in my time. Ether mashed up with a
chisel or cut into the neighboring boards with a circular saw.

Surprised you never learned the jigsaw trick. Snap off a blade to the
depth of the board. Run the jigsaw with the blade near horizontal and the
front of the bed on the board, them firmly but gently pivot it into the
work and saw to the edge. Turn round and saw to the other edge. Was doing
that long before multi tools came along. Still do, as it's quicker and the
blades cheaper.

I was watching a video of someone laying rubber flooring with one the
other week.
He used a round blade and whipped through the tiles with ease. No
messing around with straight edges and a Stanly knife.

Where it really comes into its own is cutting something close to something
else where no other saw can access it.

--
*Why doesn't glue stick to the inside of the bottle?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Inovative device for carving Xmas Turkey perhaps?
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"www.GymRatZ.co.uk" wrote in message
news
I've been looking to get a multi-tool for a while and never quite found
the need, not even for an ALDI special but in our local Homebase on
Friday there was a mountain of Worx Sonicrafter F30's on clearance.
£40 with a wood blade, a wood/metal blade and a detail sander head +
wodge of sandery sunderies.

Dunno if it's a nationwide stock thing or just our local branch but for
that price the temptation was too great.

Just need some suggestions for the most useful blades to add to it now.

Cheers
Pete

On 25/11/2016 00:58, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Surprised you never learned the jigsaw trick. Snap off a blade to the
depth of the board. Run the jigsaw with the blade near horizontal and the
front of the bed on the board, them firmly but gently pivot it into the
work and saw to the edge. Turn round and saw to the other edge. Was doing
that long before multi tools came along. Still do, as it's quicker and the
blades cheaper.

Now that's a trick I wish I knew 25 years ago when I bought my first
house and added another pipe to the single pipe C/H system to make it
actually work.

I'd never consider actually snapping a good blade on purpose.
Will now though should the need ever arise.

On 25/11/2016 09:50, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:
On 25/11/2016 00:58, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Surprised you never learned the jigsaw trick. Snap off a blade to the
depth of the board. Run the jigsaw with the blade near horizontal and the
front of the bed on the board, them firmly but gently pivot it into the
work and saw to the edge. Turn round and saw to the other edge. Was doing
that long before multi tools came along. Still do, as it's quicker and the
blades cheaper.

Now that's a trick I wish I knew 25 years ago when I bought my first
house and added another pipe to the single pipe C/H system to make it
actually work.

I'd never consider actually snapping a good blade on purpose.
Will now though should the need ever arise.




But you would be smashing the end of the blade against the joist below,
the plunge cut with a jigsaw method is fine if you are sawing through
the board only with nothing below it, but if you want to cut above a
joist and through any nails then you need the multitool, or a circular
saw with a wood/nails blade (quick but very messy)

On 25/11/2016 09:57, MrCheerful wrote:

But you would be smashing the end of the blade against the joist below,
the plunge cut with a jigsaw method is fine if you are sawing through
the board only with nothing below it, but if you want to cut above a
joist and through any nails then you need the multitool, or a circular
saw with a wood/nails blade (quick but very messy)

That's why you snap the blade off to the floorboard thickness.


That said, come to think of it I think I ended up cutting to the side of
the joists with a full length blade then screwing a batten to the joist
to support the cut end when the board was replaced.

On 25/11/2016 10:03, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:
On 25/11/2016 09:57, MrCheerful wrote:

But you would be smashing the end of the blade against the joist below,
the plunge cut with a jigsaw method is fine if you are sawing through
the board only with nothing below it, but if you want to cut above a
joist and through any nails then you need the multitool, or a circular
saw with a wood/nails blade (quick but very messy)

That's why you snap the blade off to the floorboard thickness.


That said, come to think of it I think I ended up cutting to the side of
the joists with a full length blade then screwing a batten to the joist
to support the cut end when the board was replaced.


Even with the extended blade the depth of the board there will be
smashing going on, try it, I have.

Cutting to the side of the joist was the way I used to do things, but
there are many problems with that method, such as getting a seriously
strong support from the batten (which needs to be screwed and glued or
it will move in time) also the space between the joists is reduced and
that can be a problem if you have many pipes in there, the batten can
obstruct the space for threading stuff through later, get in the way of
recessed lights etc.. Cutting directly above the joist eliminates many
difficulties and gives a better end result. The extremely narrow cut of
a multitool also gives a better visual result if the boards are exposed.

In message , Brian Gaff
writes
Inovative device for carving Xmas Turkey perhaps?

I gifted my cheapo multitool to my daughter for carving pumpkins:-)


--
Tim Lamb

In article ,
Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)
wrote:
On 25/11/2016 00:58, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Surprised you never learned the jigsaw trick. Snap off a blade to the
depth of the board. Run the jigsaw with the blade near horizontal and
the front of the bed on the board, them firmly but gently pivot it
into the work and saw to the edge. Turn round and saw to the other
edge. Was doing that long before multi tools came along. Still do, as
it's quicker and the blades cheaper.

Now that's a trick I wish I knew 25 years ago when I bought my first
house and added another pipe to the single pipe C/H system to make it
actually work.

I'd never consider actually snapping a good blade on purpose.

True. But then you just keep it for later use. Same as buying a special
blade for cutting plastic or whatever.

Will now though should the need ever arise.

Once you've tried it and acquired the knack, you'll be a convert. ;-)

--
*We never really grow*up, we only learn how to act in public.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
MrCheerful wrote:
On 25/11/2016 09:50, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:
On 25/11/2016 00:58, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Surprised you never learned the jigsaw trick. Snap off a blade to the
depth of the board. Run the jigsaw with the blade near horizontal and the
front of the bed on the board, them firmly but gently pivot it into the
work and saw to the edge. Turn round and saw to the other edge. Was doing
that long before multi tools came along. Still do, as it's quicker and the
blades cheaper.

Now that's a trick I wish I knew 25 years ago when I bought my first
house and added another pipe to the single pipe C/H system to make it
actually work.

I'd never consider actually snapping a good blade on purpose.
Will now though should the need ever arise.




But you would be smashing the end of the blade against the joist below,

If you cut gently but firmly, it works just fine.

the plunge cut with a jigsaw method is fine if you are sawing through
the board only with nothing below it, but if you want to cut above a
joist and through any nails then you need the multitool, or a circular
saw with a wood/nails blade (quick but very messy)

If you aren't sawing across the joint, no need for a short blade. The
beauty of a blade the correct length is you can't damage anything
underneath. Which you may not know about until the board is lifted.
It also cuts right through to the side. With a multi-tool, you'd usually
use the half moon saw first - then change to the square end one for the
edges.

--
*We are born naked, wet, and hungry. Then things get worse.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
MrCheerful wrote:
That said, come to think of it I think I ended up cutting to the side
of the joists with a full length blade then screwing a batten to the
joist to support the cut end when the board was replaced.


Even with the extended blade the depth of the board there will be
smashing going on, try it, I have.

You need to keep a firm downwards pressure on the saw while moving it
forwards slowly. And use a fine blade so there is a tooth at the bottom.

--
*No word in the English language rhymes with month, orange, silver,purple

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 25/11/2016 14:15, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
MrCheerful wrote:
That said, come to think of it I think I ended up cutting to the side
of the joists with a full length blade then screwing a batten to the
joist to support the cut end when the board was replaced.


Even with the extended blade the depth of the board there will be
smashing going on, try it, I have.

You need to keep a firm downwards pressure on the saw while moving it
forwards slowly. And use a fine blade so there is a tooth at the bottom.


I will give it a try, perhaps grinding the blade to a point on the teeth
side will help. Oscillate the blade? (I did not have an oscillating
blade jigsaw when I tried it)

In article ,
MrCheerful wrote:
On 25/11/2016 14:15, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
MrCheerful wrote:
That said, come to think of it I think I ended up cutting to the side
of the joists with a full length blade then screwing a batten to the
joist to support the cut end when the board was replaced.


Even with the extended blade the depth of the board there will be
smashing going on, try it, I have.

You need to keep a firm downwards pressure on the saw while moving it
forwards slowly. And use a fine blade so there is a tooth at the bottom.


I will give it a try, perhaps grinding the blade to a point on the teeth
side will help. Oscillate the blade? (I did not have an oscillating
blade jigsaw when I tried it)

I switch off the pendulum action here. Grinding the bottom of the blade to
sharpen it might well help.

Have a practice in a bit of spare wood deeper than the blade. Clamp it in
a vice so it is as rigid as a floor board in place. You should find it
easy enough to cut all the way across it provided you apply decent
downwards pressure and don't force it forwards.

--
*Some people are only alive because it is illegal to kill.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Fri, 25 Nov 2016 14:12:31 +0000 (GMT), Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

the plunge cut with a jigsaw method is fine if you are sawing through
the board only with nothing below it, but if you want to cut above a
joist and through any nails then you need the multitool, or a circular
saw with a wood/nails blade (quick but very messy)

If you aren't sawing across the joint, no need for a short blade. The
beauty of a blade the correct length is you can't damage anything
underneath. Which you may not know about until the board is lifted.
It also cuts right through to the side. With a multi-tool, you'd usually
use the half moon saw first - then change to the square end one for the
edges.

I use just the half-moon one, but put at such an angle in the tool that I
can turn it to have a vertical edge.
To get the best cut that misses the nails and is close to the centre line of
the joist, I cut through the tongue up to the joist from both sides, slip a
thin blade in and mark the edges of the joist, then mark the best line that
I can.
With my floorboards, the Bosch blade's depth of cut is cock-on right - but I
have to careful to cut all of the wood as there's no 'overshoot'.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 24/11/2016 20:44, www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
I've been looking to get a multi-tool for a while and never quite found
the need, not even for an ALDI special but in our local Homebase on
Friday there was a mountain of Worx Sonicrafter F30's on clearance.
£40 with a wood blade, a wood/metal blade and a detail sander head +
wodge of sandery sunderies.

Dunno if it's a nationwide stock thing or just our local branch but for
that price the temptation was too great.

Just need some suggestions for the most useful blades to add to it now.

Cheers
Pete




I bought one a couple of years ago, don't use it that often ... but when
I do it does job 100%
Feels like a well built bit of kit.

As a result, bought other WORX items .... all work well.

On 11/25/2016 12:58 AM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
On 24/11/2016 21:07, MrCheerful wrote:

The most useful are large round wood/metal blades and plunge cut
wood/metal blades. Taking up floor boards is one a multicutters best
tricks.

I've butchered a lot of floorboards in my time. Ether mashed up with a
chisel or cut into the neighboring boards with a circular saw.

Surprised you never learned the jigsaw trick. Snap off a blade to the
depth of the board. Run the jigsaw with the blade near horizontal and the
front of the bed on the board, them firmly but gently pivot it into the
work and saw to the edge. Turn round and saw to the other edge. Was doing
that long before multi tools came along. Still do, as it's quicker and the
blades cheaper.

I was watching a video of someone laying rubber flooring with one the
other week.
He used a round blade and whipped through the tiles with ease. No
messing around with straight edges and a Stanly knife.

Where it really comes into its own is cutting something close to something
else where no other saw can access it.

+1.

Generally a bit slow for larger floorboard jobs compared to floorboard
saw, or any power saw (plunge, jig, or circular).

Great for slots against the wall in floorboards or kitchen worktop to
take wiring. Also kitchen units.

Interesting about the rubber flooring though, was that with a saw or a
knife blade?