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Default Downlights - Low Voltage to Mains rating

I have quite a few of these in my kitchen, used with 50W MR16 bulbs and
transformers (one per light):

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HQ-Halogen...W/112184915408

and

http://www.free-instruction-manuals....f/p4734235.pdf

According to this they are rated 12v AC, and should only be used with
MR16 bulbs.

I would like to replace the transformers + bulbs with mains GU10 LED
bulbs instead.

Any reason why this shouldn't be done?


PS: they are a pretty old model (mine were bought 10+ years ago), and
are no longer available, so well before LED downlights became available.
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On 12/11/2016 14:53, JoeJoe wrote:
I have quite a few of these in my kitchen, used with 50W MR16 bulbs and
transformers (one per light):

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HQ-Halogen...W/112184915408


and

http://www.free-instruction-manuals....f/p4734235.pdf


Mine are the ones from the User manual - I couldn't fine an exact match
for them as no longer available, but they look very similar to the eBay one.

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Default Downlights - Low Voltage to Mains rating

In article ,
JoeJoe wrote:
I have quite a few of these in my kitchen, used with 50W MR16 bulbs and
transformers (one per light):


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HQ-Halogen...W/112184915408


and


http://www.free-instruction-manuals....f/p4734235.pdf


According to this they are rated 12v AC, and should only be used with
MR16 bulbs.


I would like to replace the transformers + bulbs with mains GU10 LED
bulbs instead.


Any reason why this shouldn't be done?



PS: they are a pretty old model (mine were bought 10+ years ago), and
are no longer available, so well before LED downlights became available.


The connector on an MR16 is different from a GU10. Assuming you can buy
the correct mains tails with the GU 10 connector, don't see why not.

--
*The longest recorded flightof a chicken is thirteen seconds *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Default Downlights - Low Voltage to Mains rating

JoeJoe wrote:

I have quite a few of these in my kitchen, used with 50W MR16 bulbs and
transformers (one per light):

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HQ-Halogen...terproof-For-M
R16-Lamps-Max-50W/112184915408

and

http://www.free-instruction-manuals....f/p4734235.pdf

According to this they are rated 12v AC, and should only be used with
MR16 bulbs.

I would like to replace the transformers + bulbs with mains GU10 LED
bulbs instead.

Any reason why this shouldn't be done?


PS: they are a pretty old model (mine were bought 10+ years ago), and
are no longer available, so well before LED downlights became available.


I've done it with a similar but more elaborate MR16 12V halogen
downlight. There was a bit of bodging to replace the MR16 socket, which
was riveted to the frame, with a GU!0 socket (c/w heat resistant flying
leads - from Ebay) but as long as the chocolate block connector is
protected and fixed, with a cable clamp and a cover to avoid shock in
accordance with wiring regulations I see no problem with it.



--

Roger Hayter
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Default Downlights - Low Voltage to Mains rating

On Sat, 12 Nov 2016 16:02:21 +0000, Roger Hayter wrote:

JoeJoe wrote:

I have quite a few of these in my kitchen, used with 50W MR16 bulbs and
transformers (one per light):

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HQ-Halogen...terproof-For-M
R16-Lamps-Max-50W/112184915408

and

http://www.free-instruction-manuals....f/p4734235.pdf

According to this they are rated 12v AC, and should only be used with
MR16 bulbs.

I would like to replace the transformers + bulbs with mains GU10 LED
bulbs instead.

Any reason why this shouldn't be done?

PS: they are a pretty old model (mine were bought 10+ years ago), and
are no longer available, so well before LED downlights became available.


I've done it with a similar but more elaborate MR16 12V halogen
downlight. There was a bit of bodging to replace the MR16 socket, which
was riveted to the frame, with a GU!0 socket (c/w heat resistant flying
leads - from Ebay) but as long as the chocolate block connector is
protected and fixed, with a cable clamp and a cover to avoid shock in
accordance with wiring regulations I see no problem with it.


For a very different use, I came across these (seem pretty well made,
considering the price):
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-GU10-Mai...AOSwe7BWyec 6

There is a MR16-to-GU10 adapter but, given the MR16 socket, I don't like
that much weight with no restraint. T'other way round would be OK, as the
GU10 is quite a good socket.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway


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Default Downlights - Low Voltage to Mains rating

On 12/11/2016 15:28, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
JoeJoe wrote:
I have quite a few of these in my kitchen, used with 50W MR16 bulbs and
transformers (one per light):


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HQ-Halogen...W/112184915408


and


http://www.free-instruction-manuals....f/p4734235.pdf


According to this they are rated 12v AC, and should only be used with
MR16 bulbs.


I would like to replace the transformers + bulbs with mains GU10 LED
bulbs instead.


Any reason why this shouldn't be done?



PS: they are a pretty old model (mine were bought 10+ years ago), and
are no longer available, so well before LED downlights became available.


The connector on an MR16 is different from a GU10. Assuming you can buy
the correct mains tails with the GU 10 connector, don't see why not.



Sorry, should have mentioned that I was going to replace the connectors
of course.

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Default Downlights - Low Voltage to Mains rating

On Saturday, 12 November 2016 19:21:21 UTC, JoeJoe wrote:
On 12/11/2016 15:28, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
JoeJoe wrote:
I have quite a few of these in my kitchen, used with 50W MR16 bulbs and
transformers (one per light):


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HQ-Halogen...W/112184915408


and


http://www.free-instruction-manuals....f/p4734235.pdf


According to this they are rated 12v AC, and should only be used with
MR16 bulbs.


I would like to replace the transformers + bulbs with mains GU10 LED
bulbs instead.


Any reason why this shouldn't be done?



PS: they are a pretty old model (mine were bought 10+ years ago), and
are no longer available, so well before LED downlights became available.


The connector on an MR16 is different from a GU10. Assuming you can buy
the correct mains tails with the GU 10 connector, don't see why not.



Sorry, should have mentioned that I was going to replace the connectors
of course.


Connect the earth wire to the metal fitting, if it is metal. Ensure the wire joint can't be touched and is in a flame resistant container. Then you have class 1 mains fittings.


NT
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Default Downlights - Low Voltage to Mains rating

I of course cannot see the pictures here, but I do recall a bodger I used to
know who decided a spotlight 12 v powered by a transformer up in the ceiling
and fed to a light on a gooseneck. was rubbish so he changed the socket in
the lamp by drilling out the rivets, then connected the two wires in the
ceiling to the mains and yes, it worked. However about a month later there
was a bang and the internal wiring shorted out.
I somehow have never been convinced that 12v wiring is up to mains
insulation standards. On the face of it the current should be less of
course, but the insulation and bulb heat etc need to be taken into account
when doing these things. I'd also have wondered about the lamp body being
earthed or not. I never found out.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"JoeJoe" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 12/11/2016 15:28, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
JoeJoe wrote:
I have quite a few of these in my kitchen, used with 50W MR16 bulbs and
transformers (one per light):


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HQ-Halogen...W/112184915408

and


http://www.free-instruction-manuals....f/p4734235.pdf


According to this they are rated 12v AC, and should only be used with
MR16 bulbs.


I would like to replace the transformers + bulbs with mains GU10 LED
bulbs instead.


Any reason why this shouldn't be done?



PS: they are a pretty old model (mine were bought 10+ years ago), and
are no longer available, so well before LED downlights became available.


The connector on an MR16 is different from a GU10. Assuming you can buy
the correct mains tails with the GU 10 connector, don't see why not.



Sorry, should have mentioned that I was going to replace the connectors of
course.



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Default Downlights - Low Voltage to Mains rating

Brian Gaff wrote

I of course cannot see the pictures here, but I do recall a bodger I used
to know who decided a spotlight 12 v powered by a transformer up in the
ceiling and fed to a light on a gooseneck. was rubbish so he changed the
socket in the lamp by drilling out the rivets, then connected the two
wires in the ceiling to the mains and yes, it worked. However about a
month later there was a bang and the internal wiring shorted out.


I somehow have never been convinced that 12v wiring is up to mains
insulation standards. On the face of it the current should be less of
course,


You've got that backwards.

but the insulation and bulb heat etc need to be taken into account when
doing these things.


Yep.

I'd also have wondered about the lamp body being earthed or not. I never
found out.


Doesn’t need to be with 12V and in fact plenty of desk lamps do it like
that,
but should be with 240V lamps, except those that are double insulated.

"JoeJoe" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 12/11/2016 15:28, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
JoeJoe wrote:
I have quite a few of these in my kitchen, used with 50W MR16 bulbs and
transformers (one per light):

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HQ-Halogen...W/112184915408

and

http://www.free-instruction-manuals....f/p4734235.pdf

According to this they are rated 12v AC, and should only be used with
MR16 bulbs.

I would like to replace the transformers + bulbs with mains GU10 LED
bulbs instead.

Any reason why this shouldn't be done?


PS: they are a pretty old model (mine were bought 10+ years ago), and
are no longer available, so well before LED downlights became
available.

The connector on an MR16 is different from a GU10. Assuming you can buy
the correct mains tails with the GU 10 connector, don't see why not.



Sorry, should have mentioned that I was going to replace the connectors
of course.



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Roger Hayter wrote:

JoeJoe wrote:

I have quite a few of these in my kitchen, used with 50W MR16 bulbs and
transformers (one per light):

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HQ-Halogen...terproof-For-M
R16-Lamps-Max-50W/112184915408

and

http://www.free-instruction-manuals....f/p4734235.pdf

According to this they are rated 12v AC, and should only be used with
MR16 bulbs.

I would like to replace the transformers + bulbs with mains GU10 LED
bulbs instead.

Any reason why this shouldn't be done?


PS: they are a pretty old model (mine were bought 10+ years ago), and
are no longer available, so well before LED downlights became available.


I've done it with a similar but more elaborate MR16 12V halogen
downlight. There was a bit of bodging to replace the MR16 socket, which
was riveted to the frame, with a GU!0 socket (c/w heat resistant flying
leads - from Ebay) but as long as the chocolate block connector is
protected and fixed, with a cable clamp and a cover to avoid shock in
accordance with wiring regulations I see no problem with it.


Forgot the earth connection to the metal fitting. Well I didn't forget
to *do* it, but I forgot to mention it. Especially a good idea if you
have to change the bulb up a ladder, as even a little leakage can be
distracting.

--

Roger Hayter
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