This is not a question really...

Just an observation - but the things I've found are quite interesting.

No affiliation with anyone listed below.

Going to be using a fair bit of LED tape. The basic lighting circuits
are now done at the bungalow. So this is "poncing about for fun".

I needed some low profile LED lights that do not need sinking into a
ceiling (insulation and irregularly spaced rafters above).

Chose this profile:

https://www.marcled.com/products/206...456789001.html

which has the advantage of being nearly invisible to the casual observer
against a white ceiling, and wide enough to cover a 20mm cable entry
hole (more on that later).

Going to use a wood version:

https://www.marcled.com/products/219...103352509.html

in the conservatory around the "cove" area under the roof, top of the
window sections. Again, it will be discrete.


I've had test sections of both up and it looks good.

Also has the advantage of being trivial to unclip to replace the tape if
that fails.

On the same line, I found these:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/lighti...ctors/0399571/

which make perfect power connectors - strain relief, locking and screw
terminal. And thin enough to poke up a 20 mm hole in the ceiling. Comes
in a male and female cable mount type.

So the LEDs can be dropped off and unplugged for painting and repair.

If I used an RGBW tape I'd need 5 connections, so probably use a quality
5A rated DIN plug/socket for that.


PSUs: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/led-drivers/7737002/

Over-Everything protection, shrouded terminals and strain relief. It's
amazing how much **** is sold in the sheds (and electrical wholesalers)
- stuff with single insulated mains wires coming out the end. WTF am I
supposed to do with those to make them compliant?

Now for the tape - this is where it gets hard:

https://www.led-lighthouse.co.uk/led-strip-lights

Had the 14.4W/m, and 9.6W/m on test in the mid -whites. The 14.4 is
insanely bright. The 9.6 might do in the conservatory where I will run
8m of it around the perimeter.


But now I'm torn. Wouldn't it be cute to deploy some RGBW tape and have
funky colours plus a decent white at 1000 lumens/m! Just makes the
wiring much harder trying to run 5 cores of 0.5mm2 - 0.75mm2 around...


That's not a complaint - I am just amazed by how far this has come.

Those tapes are also water proof without sleeving, so they might get
used for soffit lighting too.

24V versions naturally


Photos of real installations as I progress...

Tim

On 10/11/2016 14:58, Tim Watts wrote:
.... snipped

I needed some low profile LED lights that do not need sinking into a
ceiling (insulation and irregularly spaced rafters above).

Chose this profile:

https://www.marcled.com/products/206...456789001.html


which has the advantage of being nearly invisible to the casual observer
against a white ceiling, and wide enough to cover a 20mm cable entry
hole (more on that later).


Thanks for posting that link, I didn't realise extrusion for LED tape
was available and it should help me solve a couple of problems.

On Thursday, 10 November 2016 14:58:42 UTC, Tim Watts wrote:
This is not a question really...

Just an observation - but the things I've found are quite interesting.

No affiliation with anyone listed below.

Going to be using a fair bit of LED tape. The basic lighting circuits
are now done at the bungalow. So this is "poncing about for fun".

I needed some low profile LED lights that do not need sinking into a
ceiling (insulation and irregularly spaced rafters above).

Chose this profile:

https://www.marcled.com/products/206...456789001.html

which has the advantage of being nearly invisible to the casual observer
against a white ceiling, and wide enough to cover a 20mm cable entry
hole (more on that later).

Going to use a wood version:

https://www.marcled.com/products/219...103352509.html

in the conservatory around the "cove" area under the roof, top of the
window sections. Again, it will be discrete.


I've had test sections of both up and it looks good.

Also has the advantage of being trivial to unclip to replace the tape if
that fails.

On the same line, I found these:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/lighti...ctors/0399571/

which make perfect power connectors - strain relief, locking and screw
terminal. And thin enough to poke up a 20 mm hole in the ceiling. Comes
in a male and female cable mount type.

So the LEDs can be dropped off and unplugged for painting and repair.

If I used an RGBW tape I'd need 5 connections, so probably use a quality
5A rated DIN plug/socket for that.


PSUs: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/led-drivers/7737002/

Over-Everything protection, shrouded terminals and strain relief. It's
amazing how much **** is sold in the sheds (and electrical wholesalers)
- stuff with single insulated mains wires coming out the end. WTF am I
supposed to do with those to make them compliant?

Now for the tape - this is where it gets hard:

https://www.led-lighthouse.co.uk/led-strip-lights

Had the 14.4W/m, and 9.6W/m on test in the mid -whites. The 14.4 is
insanely bright. The 9.6 might do in the conservatory where I will run
8m of it around the perimeter.


But now I'm torn. Wouldn't it be cute to deploy some RGBW tape and have
funky colours plus a decent white at 1000 lumens/m! Just makes the
wiring much harder trying to run 5 cores of 0.5mm2 - 0.75mm2 around...


That's not a complaint - I am just amazed by how far this has come.

Those tapes are also water proof without sleeving, so they might get
used for soffit lighting too.

24V versions naturally

Over only played with lower voltage 5V strips.
You don't need 5 core cable just 4 and only 2 of those are power the other data.
Might be a bit expensive but....

https://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/dig...FfAV0wod_EkGdA

I used an arduniuo to contol the lighting effects.



Photos of real installations as I progress...

I did have some, but where is another Q


Tim

On 10/11/16 16:04, whisky-dave wrote:
On Thursday, 10 November 2016 14:58:42 UTC, Tim Watts wrote:

Over only played with lower voltage 5V strips.

The 24V is nice for lower currents and less volt drop problems

You don't need 5 core cable just 4 and only 2 of those are power the other data.

Well, you do for these particular ones R,G,B,W + -ve - they are
fairly dumb.
Might be a bit expensive but....

https://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/dig...FfAV0wod_EkGdA

I used an arduniuo to contol the lighting effects.

I have come across an RGBW version - but you have to buy it direct from
the states. Possibly an AdaFruit make.

The LEDs are arranged as a giant shift register chain. However, there's
a clever bit where the data can be loaded then activated later, in a
faster manner synchronously across the whole tape. Same LEDs as used on
the Unicorn Pi "Hat".

In fact, that only needs 3 wires IIRC.



Photos of real installations as I progress...

I did have some, but where is another Q

On 10/11/16 15:59, wrote:
On 10/11/2016 14:58, Tim Watts wrote:
.... snipped

I needed some low profile LED lights that do not need sinking into a
ceiling (insulation and irregularly spaced rafters above).

Chose this profile:

https://www.marcled.com/products/206...456789001.html



which has the advantage of being nearly invisible to the casual observer
against a white ceiling, and wide enough to cover a 20mm cable entry
hole (more on that later).


Thanks for posting that link, I didn't realise extrusion for LED tape
was available and it should help me solve a couple of problems.


There's another type where you lose the clips too. Has a separate
extruded rail that acts as one giant but visually integrated clip.

There are a lot of possibilities - and with LEDs I see no reason to be
drilling 88mm holes (etc) in the ceiling for downlighters.

On Thu, 10 Nov 2016 14:58:37 +0000, Tim Watts wrote:

But now I'm torn. Wouldn't it be cute to deploy some RGBW tape and have
funky colours plus a decent white at 1000 lumens/m!

You know Big Clive's LED controller? http://www.bigclive.com/newrgb.htm

Just PWM, though.


Thomas Prufer

On Thursday, 10 November 2016 16:27:43 UTC, Tim Watts wrote:
On 10/11/16 16:04, whisky-dave wrote:
On Thursday, 10 November 2016 14:58:42 UTC, Tim Watts wrote:

Over only played with lower voltage 5V strips.

The 24V is nice for lower currents and less volt drop problems

Yes good for boats and caravans I suppose.


You don't need 5 core cable just 4 and only 2 of those are power the other data.

Well, you do for these particular ones R,G,B,W + -ve - they are
fairly dumb.
Might be a bit expensive but....

https://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/dig...FfAV0wod_EkGdA

I used an arduniuo to contol the lighting effects.

I have come across an RGBW version - but you have to buy it direct from
the states. Possibly an AdaFruit make.

Possibley, but is that such a problem oh we don't have a trade deal I forgot ;-)



The LEDs are arranged as a giant shift register chain. However, there's
a clever bit where the data can be loaded then activated later, in a
faster manner synchronously across the whole tape. Same LEDs as used on
the Unicorn Pi "Hat".

In fact, that only needs 3 wires IIRC.



Photos of real installations as I progress...

I did have some, but where is another Q

On 10/11/2016 14:58, Tim Watts wrote:

Now for the tape - this is where it gets hard:

https://www.led-lighthouse.co.uk/led-strip-lights

Had the 14.4W/m, and 9.6W/m on test in the mid -whites. The 14.4 is
insanely bright. The 9.6 might do in the conservatory where I will run
8m of it around the perimeter.


But now I'm torn. Wouldn't it be cute to deploy some RGBW tape and have
funky colours plus a decent white at 1000 lumens/m! Just makes the
wiring much harder trying to run 5 cores of 0.5mm2 - 0.75mm2 around...

Have you seen:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SK156759.html



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 10/11/2016 14:58, Tim Watts wrote:

Also

On the same line, I found these:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/lighti...ctors/0399571/

which make perfect power connectors - strain relief, locking and screw
terminal. And thin enough to poke up a 20 mm hole in the ceiling. Comes
in a male and female cable mount type.

https://trade.ledhut.co.uk/led-strip...connector.html

and for a bit of a pose:

https://trade.ledhut.co.uk/led-strip...lour-dial.html


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Tim Watts wrote

This is not a question really...

Just an observation - but the things I've found are quite interesting.

No affiliation with anyone listed below.

Going to be using a fair bit of LED tape. The basic lighting circuits are
now done at the bungalow. So this is "poncing about for fun".

In my case its more redoing the lighting now that LEDs are viable
and hoping to have something that will last for as long as I do.

I needed some low profile LED lights that do not need sinking into a
ceiling (insulation and irregularly spaced rafters above).

In my case I have the exposed bottom flange of the galvanised I beams
that are the entire roof structure with drop in paper faced huge great
panels of polyfoam 4' wide and the full width of the house. So with the
bottom flange visible in the rooms, the obvious thing to do is to run
strip lights along those.

Chose this profile:

https://www.marcled.com/products/206...456789001.html

Main problem with that one is that it is only available in 1M lengths.
Makes a lot more sense to have them in at least 5M lengths and cut
them to fit where you want to put them. Main problem is how to get
those delivered, particularly from china. Guess 2 pieces per run would
be acceptable tho and that should make delivery more viable. Plenty
of other profiles with up to 3M length tho.

which has the advantage of being nearly invisible to the casual observer
against a white ceiling,

I dont really need that myself since the bottom of the
beams is quite visible, 2" wide, maybe 5mm deep.

and wide enough to cover a 20mm cable entry hole (more on that later).

Going to use a wood version:

https://www.marcled.com/products/219...103352509.html

Urk. Not into wood effect myself.

in the conservatory around the "cove" area under the roof, top of the
window sections. Again, it will be discrete.

More discrete when white IMO.

The way Adam did it is even better but
involves much more work in my case.

I've had test sections of both up and it looks good.

Also has the advantage of being trivial to unclip to replace the tape if
that fails.

And its cheap enough so that its no worse than
changing a bulb, just mechanically different.

On the same line, I found these:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/lighti...ctors/0399571/

which make perfect power connectors - strain relief, locking and screw
terminal. And thin enough to poke up a 20 mm hole in the ceiling. Comes in
a male and female cable mount type.

In my case I'd prefer a much smaller bell wire connection with the power
supplies in the ceiling. Just a small say 2mm hole in the bottom of the beam
drilled thru the bottom of the profile so invisible once the translucent
cover
is on the profile.

So the LEDs can be dropped off and unplugged for painting and repair.

If I used an RGBW tape I'd need 5 connections, so probably use a quality
5A rated DIN plug/socket for that.

I might go the RGBW route just so I can set whatever
color temp I want and vary that with brightness.

PSUs: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/led-drivers/7737002/

Over-Everything protection, shrouded terminals and strain relief. It's
amazing how much **** is sold in the sheds (and electrical wholesalers) -
stuff with single insulated mains wires coming out the end. WTF am I
supposed to do with those to make them compliant?

Now for the tape - this is where it gets hard:

https://www.led-lighthouse.co.uk/led-strip-lights

Had the 14.4W/m, and 9.6W/m on test in the mid -whites. The 14.4 is
insanely bright. The 9.6 might do in the conservatory where I will run 8m
of it around the perimeter.

But now I'm torn. Wouldn't it be cute to deploy some RGBW tape and have
funky colours plus a decent white at 1000 lumens/m! Just makes the wiring
much harder trying to run 5 cores of 0.5mm2 - 0.75mm2 around...

I wouldnt bother myself, just want to vary the intensity and color temp.

That's not a complaint - I am just amazed by how far this has come.

Yeah, me too.

Those tapes are also water proof without sleeving, so they might get used
for soffit lighting too.

24V versions naturally

Photos of real installations as I progress...

"whisky-dave" wrote in message
...
On Thursday, 10 November 2016 14:58:42 UTC, Tim Watts wrote:
This is not a question really...

Just an observation - but the things I've found are quite interesting.

No affiliation with anyone listed below.

Going to be using a fair bit of LED tape. The basic lighting circuits
are now done at the bungalow. So this is "poncing about for fun".

I needed some low profile LED lights that do not need sinking into a
ceiling (insulation and irregularly spaced rafters above).

Chose this profile:

https://www.marcled.com/products/206...456789001.html

which has the advantage of being nearly invisible to the casual observer
against a white ceiling, and wide enough to cover a 20mm cable entry
hole (more on that later).

Going to use a wood version:

https://www.marcled.com/products/219...103352509.html

in the conservatory around the "cove" area under the roof, top of the
window sections. Again, it will be discrete.


I've had test sections of both up and it looks good.

Also has the advantage of being trivial to unclip to replace the tape if
that fails.

On the same line, I found these:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/lighti...ctors/0399571/

which make perfect power connectors - strain relief, locking and screw
terminal. And thin enough to poke up a 20 mm hole in the ceiling. Comes
in a male and female cable mount type.

So the LEDs can be dropped off and unplugged for painting and repair.

If I used an RGBW tape I'd need 5 connections, so probably use a quality
5A rated DIN plug/socket for that.


PSUs: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/led-drivers/7737002/

Over-Everything protection, shrouded terminals and strain relief. It's
amazing how much **** is sold in the sheds (and electrical wholesalers)
- stuff with single insulated mains wires coming out the end. WTF am I
supposed to do with those to make them compliant?

Now for the tape - this is where it gets hard:

https://www.led-lighthouse.co.uk/led-strip-lights

Had the 14.4W/m, and 9.6W/m on test in the mid -whites. The 14.4 is
insanely bright. The 9.6 might do in the conservatory where I will run
8m of it around the perimeter.


But now I'm torn. Wouldn't it be cute to deploy some RGBW tape and have
funky colours plus a decent white at 1000 lumens/m! Just makes the
wiring much harder trying to run 5 cores of 0.5mm2 - 0.75mm2 around...


That's not a complaint - I am just amazed by how far this has come.

Those tapes are also water proof without sleeving, so they might get
used for soffit lighting too.

24V versions naturally

Over only played with lower voltage 5V strips.
You don't need 5 core cable just 4 and only 2 of those are power the other
data.
Might be a bit expensive but....

Yeah, bit of an overkill being able to control each one individually.

https://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/dig...FfAV0wod_EkGdA

I used an arduniuo to contol the lighting effects.



Photos of real installations as I progress...

I did have some, but where is another Q

On 10/11/16 16:36, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Thu, 10 Nov 2016 14:58:37 +0000, Tim Watts wrote:

But now I'm torn. Wouldn't it be cute to deploy some RGBW tape and have
funky colours plus a decent white at 1000 lumens/m!

You know Big Clive's LED controller? http://www.bigclive.com/newrgb.htm

Just PWM, though.


Thomas Prufer


Cute

On 10/11/16 17:44, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2016 14:58, Tim Watts wrote:

Now for the tape - this is where it gets hard:

https://www.led-lighthouse.co.uk/led-strip-lights

Had the 14.4W/m, and 9.6W/m on test in the mid -whites. The 14.4 is
insanely bright. The 9.6 might do in the conservatory where I will run
8m of it around the perimeter.


But now I'm torn. Wouldn't it be cute to deploy some RGBW tape and have
funky colours plus a decent white at 1000 lumens/m! Just makes the
wiring much harder trying to run 5 cores of 0.5mm2 - 0.75mm2 around...

Have you seen:


No - but someone did mention TLC had something funky.

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SK156759.html


The *really* smart addressable LED I mentioned earlier is the:

WS2812B

On 10/11/16 17:48, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2016 14:58, Tim Watts wrote:

Also

On the same line, I found these:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/lighti...ctors/0399571/

which make perfect power connectors - strain relief, locking and screw
terminal. And thin enough to poke up a 20 mm hole in the ceiling. Comes
in a male and female cable mount type.

https://trade.ledhut.co.uk/led-strip...connector.html

Aye - I tried those. The problem is they tend not to fit inside the ali
profile, if you choose to use it. Which is a pity as it's a neat solution.

Also for very long runs (10m at 24V or 5m at 12V typically, soldering is
recommended due to the higher current).


and for a bit of a pose:

https://trade.ledhut.co.uk/led-strip...lour-dial.html




The LED Lighthouse guys have quite a lot of stuff like that.

For my dormer (which you've seen, but is actually 3/4 plasterboarded
now!) I want to use 4 x 2.5m strips of white (prolly 4000K) strips on
the ceiling for overall lighting (now have a very low ceiling due to
extra insulation).

But behind the purlins where these are in the open, my mate suggested
some RGBW tape for wall-wash effects.

For those I fancy:

https://www.led-lighthouse.co.uk/led...ler-12v-or-24v

Not remote controllable, but a nice "proper fixed" affair. Not tried
that particular one yet - need to see some reviews.

I considered Fibaro RGBW Z Wave controllers. However, I prefer to have
wired controls available too that "just work". For dimmers this can be a
simple grid momentary button. But for RGBW, you'd need 4 buttons and it
would be pretty horrible to operate manually.

On 10/11/2016 18:32, Tim Watts wrote:
On 10/11/16 17:48, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2016 14:58, Tim Watts wrote:

Also

On the same line, I found these:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/lighti...ctors/0399571/

which make perfect power connectors - strain relief, locking and screw
terminal. And thin enough to poke up a 20 mm hole in the ceiling. Comes
in a male and female cable mount type.

https://trade.ledhut.co.uk/led-strip...connector.html


Aye - I tried those. The problem is they tend not to fit inside the ali
profile, if you choose to use it. Which is a pity as it's a neat solution.

Also for very long runs (10m at 24V or 5m at 12V typically, soldering is
recommended due to the higher current).

I soldered a bit of two core flex on to the end of mine... once heat
shrunk up it was fine.


The LED Lighthouse guys have quite a lot of stuff like that.

For my dormer (which you've seen, but is actually 3/4 plasterboarded
now!) I want to use 4 x 2.5m strips of white (prolly 4000K) strips on
the ceiling for overall lighting (now have a very low ceiling due to
extra insulation).

But behind the purlins where these are in the open, my mate suggested
some RGBW tape for wall-wash effects.

I did that with my garden building, it works very well with them tucked
up under the eves:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...WashEffect.jpg


For those I fancy:

https://www.led-lighthouse.co.uk/led...ler-12v-or-24v


Not remote controllable, but a nice "proper fixed" affair. Not tried
that particular one yet - need to see some reviews.


Yup that's quite neat.

I considered Fibaro RGBW Z Wave controllers. However, I prefer to have
wired controls available too that "just work". For dimmers this can be a
simple grid momentary button. But for RGBW, you'd need 4 buttons and it
would be pretty horrible to operate manually.

Yup.

What irritates me is all the nice kits of tape and PSU etc you can buy
(often for less than the price of the tape on its own). They always seem
to come with wall wart PSUs rather than wireable ones...

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 10/11/16 21:11, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2016 18:32, Tim Watts wrote:
On 10/11/16 17:48, John Rumm wrote:

But behind the purlins where these are in the open, my mate suggested
some RGBW tape for wall-wash effects.

I did that with my garden building, it works very well with them tucked
up under the eves:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...WashEffect.jpg

Nice...

Yup.

What irritates me is all the nice kits of tape and PSU etc you can buy
(often for less than the price of the tape on its own). They always seem
to come with wall wart PSUs rather than wireable ones...