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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the
correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm? |
#2
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On 04/11/2016 14:30, ss wrote:
I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm? It's 1.5 |
#3
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On 04/11/2016 14:36, Bod wrote:
On 04/11/2016 14:30, ss wrote: I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm? It's 1.5 Thanks. |
#4
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In article ,
ss wrote: I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm? 1mm is the common one for lighting circuits. You could use 1.5mm if you already have it. 2.5mm could be too big to fit connectors, etc. -- *I have my own little world - but it's OK...they know me here* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#5
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On 4 Nov 2016 14:30, ss wrote:
I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm? 1.5 or 1.0 mm -- Flying on Per Ardua ad Astra |
#6
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On 04/11/16 15:48, Zephirum wrote:
On 4 Nov 2016 14:30, ss wrote: I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm? 1.5 or 1.0 mm Is the most correct answer. But 1mm2 can have a tendency to break the cores so personally I stick with 1.5mm2 for lighting. |
#7
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In article ,
Tim Watts wrote: On 04/11/16 15:48, Zephirum wrote: On 4 Nov 2016 14:30, ss wrote: I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm? 1.5 or 1.0 mm Is the most correct answer. But 1mm2 can have a tendency to break the cores so personally I stick with 1.5mm2 for lighting. Crikey. What on earth are you doing with it? ;-) -- *Wrinkled was not one of the things I wanted to be when I grew up Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#8
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On Friday, 4 November 2016 14:30:53 UTC, ss wrote:
I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm? 1mm as you now know. I wonder if one day bell wire will be accepted again for lighting. Today's high efficiency lights don't need anything heavier. If it's kept out of touch it doesn't need double insulation. Earthing may fade into lesser importance with RCDs & class 2 fittings. NT |
#9
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On 4 Nov 2016 16:42, Tim Watts wrote:
On 04/11/16 15:48, Zephirum wrote: On 4 Nov 2016 14:30, ss wrote: I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm? 1.5 or 1.0 mm Is the most correct answer. But 1mm2 can have a tendency to break the cores so personally I stick with 1.5mm2 for lighting. Agree, and in fact 1.00 mm seems to be mostly a UK thing, it certainly not used in Eire last time I looked nor France but that might have changed. -- Flying on Per Ardua ad Astra |
#10
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Unless you want to add a number of extra lights later on of course.
Brian -- ----- - This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from... The Sofa of Brian Gaff... Blind user, so no pictures please! "Bod" wrote in message ... On 04/11/2016 14:30, ss wrote: I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm? It's 1.5 |
#11
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In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote: Unless you want to add a number of extra lights later on of course. Brian Under the worse conditions, 1mm TW&E is rated at 8 amps. -- *Never miss a good chance to shut up.* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#12
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Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , ss wrote: I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm? 1mm is the common one for lighting circuits. You could use 1.5mm if you already have it. 2.5mm could be too big to fit connectors, etc. Depending on cable routing you may need 5Amp rather than 10Amp circuit breakers if you are using 1sqmm cable. -- Roger Hayter |
#13
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In article ,
Roger Hayter wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , ss wrote: I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm? 1mm is the common one for lighting circuits. You could use 1.5mm if you already have it. 2.5mm could be too big to fit connectors, etc. Depending on cable routing you may need 5Amp rather than 10Amp circuit breakers if you are using 1sqmm cable. Surely 5 amp is the common one for lighting circuits? Unless stupid enough to have only one in a house? -- *Drugs may lead to nowhere, but at least it's the scenic route * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#14
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On 05/11/2016 10:36, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Brian Gaff wrote: Unless you want to add a number of extra lights later on of course. Brian Under the worse conditions, 1mm TW&E is rated at 8 amps. You could get it lower with other derating factors if you really tried ;-) However 1mm^2 is usually fine for most lighting circuits, but you do have a slightly reduced maximum length compared to those wired in 1.5mm^2 -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#15
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Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Roger Hayter wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , ss wrote: I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm? 1mm is the common one for lighting circuits. You could use 1.5mm if you already have it. 2.5mm could be too big to fit connectors, etc. Depending on cable routing you may need 5Amp rather than 10Amp circuit breakers if you are using 1sqmm cable. Surely 5 amp is the common one for lighting circuits? Unless stupid enough to have only one in a house? It always used to be when we had fuse wire! But my current house is fiited with no fewer than trhree lighting circuits, each with a 10A breaker. I don't know if I am entirely alone in this, but I certainly felt a little guilty using a couple of meters of 1sqmm three core and earth I happened to have for a repair. Though it is probably alright because of where it is run. -- Roger Hayter |
#16
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In article ,
John Rumm wrote: On 05/11/2016 10:36, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Brian Gaff wrote: Unless you want to add a number of extra lights later on of course. Brian Under the worse conditions, 1mm TW&E is rated at 8 amps. You could get it lower with other derating factors if you really tried ;-) Very probably. ;-) However 1mm^2 is usually fine for most lighting circuits, but you do have a slightly reduced maximum length compared to those wired in 1.5mm^2 I did do all the lighting feeds from the CU here in 1.5mm Ground floor because it has more lights than elsewhere and a 10 amp MCB, and the others for the longer runs. But pretty well all the wiring here is either under floorboards or inside partition walls. -- *What hair colour do they put on the driver's license of a bald man? * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#17
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On 05/11/2016 17:51, Roger Hayter wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Roger Hayter wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , ss wrote: I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm? 1mm is the common one for lighting circuits. You could use 1.5mm if you already have it. 2.5mm could be too big to fit connectors, etc. Depending on cable routing you may need 5Amp rather than 10Amp circuit breakers if you are using 1sqmm cable. Surely 5 amp is the common one for lighting circuits? Unless stupid enough to have only one in a house? It always used to be when we had fuse wire! But my current house is fiited with no fewer than trhree lighting circuits, each with a 10A breaker. I don't know if I am entirely alone in this, but I certainly felt a little guilty using a couple of meters of 1sqmm three core and earth I happened to have for a repair. Though it is probably alright because of where it is run. Unless you have an installation method that results in a big de-rating on the cable, 1mm^2 is usually more than adequately protected by a B10 MCB. So I would not worry. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#18
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John Rumm wrote:
On 05/11/2016 17:51, Roger Hayter wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Roger Hayter wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , ss wrote: I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm? 1mm is the common one for lighting circuits. You could use 1.5mm if you already have it. 2.5mm could be too big to fit connectors, etc. Depending on cable routing you may need 5Amp rather than 10Amp circuit breakers if you are using 1sqmm cable. Surely 5 amp is the common one for lighting circuits? Unless stupid enough to have only one in a house? It always used to be when we had fuse wire! But my current house is fiited with no fewer than trhree lighting circuits, each with a 10A breaker. I don't know if I am entirely alone in this, but I certainly felt a little guilty using a couple of meters of 1sqmm three core and earth I happened to have for a repair. Though it is probably alright because of where it is run. Unless you have an installation method that results in a big de-rating on the cable, 1mm^2 is usually more than adequately protected by a B10 MCB. So I would not worry. Thanks for the reassurance. I was only worried enough to think about it, not to do a 50 mile round trip to buy some thicker cable! -- Roger Hayter |
#19
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En el artículo ,
escribió: 1mm as you now know. I wonder if one day bell wire will be accepted again for lighting. Today's high efficiency lights don't need anything heavier. You have to plan for worst case, though. I rewired the lights in my kitchen recently (badly bodged amateur job done by previous occupant - see pic in link below). It was 6 x 50W GU10 halogens which I've replaced with LED, but have had to rewire on the assumption that someone might in future wander along and refit halogens. https://www.dropbox.com/s/krtwgt8shh..._9602.JPG?dl=0 -- (\_/) (='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10 (")_(") |
#20
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On 06/11/2016 09:03, Roger Hayter wrote:
Unless you have an installation method that results in a big de-rating on the cable, 1mm^2 is usually more than adequately protected by a B10 MCB. So I would not worry. OK. Suppose a load of 1kW, and 3kW. How hot would 1mm cable get in each case, assuming it wasn't in an airless place? Bill |
#21
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On Monday, 7 November 2016 01:17:22 UTC, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artÃ*culo , tabbypurr escribió: 1mm as you now know. I wonder if one day bell wire will be accepted again for lighting. Today's high efficiency lights don't need anything heavier. You have to plan for worst case, though. Yes and no. If the 1A mcb protects against long term small overload then all is well, and that's not challenging nowadays. The greens should love it as it limits use of halogens. I rewired the lights in my kitchen recently (badly bodged amateur job done by previous occupant - see pic in link below). It was 6 x 50W GU10 halogens which I've replaced with LED, but have had to rewire on the assumption that someone might in future wander along and refit halogens. https://www.dropbox.com/s/krtwgt8shh..._9602.JPG?dl=0 I think those jboxes are a bit dated now NT |
#22
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Bill Wright wrote:
On 06/11/2016 09:03, Roger Hayter wrote: Unless you have an installation method that results in a big de-rating on the cable, 1mm^2 is usually more than adequately protected by a B10 MCB. So I would not worry. OK. Suppose a load of 1kW, and 3kW. How hot would 1mm cable get in each case, assuming it wasn't in an airless place? Bill The attribution is wrong, that was a reply to me. But why assume it isn't in an airless place, since cables often travel in conduit, trunking, behind insulation or under plaster? And sometimes with many similarly loaded cables. -- Roger Hayter |
#23
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In article ,
Mike Tomlinson wrote: En el artículo , escribió: 1mm as you now know. I wonder if one day bell wire will be accepted again for lighting. Today's high efficiency lights don't need anything heavier. You have to plan for worst case, though. I rewired the lights in my kitchen recently (badly bodged amateur job done by previous occupant - see pic in link below). It was 6 x 50W GU10 halogens which I've replaced with LED, but have had to rewire on the assumption that someone might in future wander along and refit halogens. Given the smallest TW&E is 1mm, I'm not quite sure what option you'd have? Think it's fair to say LEDs are being improved all the time, and are getting cheaper too. So unlikely anyone would go back to halogen if happy with today's LEDs. https://www.dropbox.com/s/krtwgt8shh..._9602.JPG?dl=0 -- *Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#24
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On 07/11/2016 01:23, Bill Wright wrote:
On 06/11/2016 09:03, Roger Hayter wrote: Unless you have an installation method that results in a big de-rating on the cable, 1mm^2 is usually more than adequately protected by a B10 MCB. So I would not worry. OK. Suppose a load of 1kW, and 3kW. How hot would 1mm cable get in each case, assuming it wasn't in an airless place? Those are impossible questions to answer without exquisitely detailed knowledge of the actual installation - i.e. the length of the circuit, and what de-rating factors apply all the way along it. However you can look at it the other way. If you start with the tabulated ratings for the cable: http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Cables#Cable_Sizes You will note there are a number of different maximum current ratings specified for 1mm^2 T&E. They change depending on the installation method. Installation methods that allow for good cooling of the cable, like being buried directly in masonry, or being clipped to a surface in free air (both method C), will allow the fastest rate of heat loss from the cable and hence the highest current. The current limits are set empirically such that the temperature of the cables conductors at that load will not exceed the temperature at which the insulation would either be damaged, or at least start to experience accelerated ageing. For normal PVC clad cables the limit temperature is 70 deg C. The temperature of the cable actually achieves will be proportional to the power being dissipated in it. That will be dictated by I^2 r. The squared term in there will mean that the temperature rise will be non linear with the lions share of the rise happening near to maximum current load. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#25
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On 07/11/2016 01:16, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artículo , escribió: 1mm as you now know. I wonder if one day bell wire will be accepted again for lighting. Today's high efficiency lights don't need anything heavier. You have to plan for worst case, though. Perhaps not the worst, but the guideline is to assume the higher value of either whatever is fitted to the actual fitting, or 100W. So you would not normally design a circuit with more than 13 lamp fittings per circuit if protected at 6A. I rewired the lights in my kitchen recently (badly bodged amateur job done by previous occupant - see pic in link below). It was 6 x 50W GU10 halogens which I've replaced with LED, but have had to rewire on the assumption that someone might in future wander along and refit halogens. https://www.dropbox.com/s/krtwgt8shh..._9602.JPG?dl=0 -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#26
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On Mon, 7 Nov 2016 18:32:44 +0000, John Rumm wrote:
On 07/11/2016 01:16, Mike Tomlinson wrote: En el artículo , escribió: 1mm as you now know. I wonder if one day bell wire will be accepted again for lighting. Today's high efficiency lights don't need anything heavier. You have to plan for worst case, though. Perhaps not the worst, but the guideline is to assume the higher value of either whatever is fitted to the actual fitting, or 100W. So you would not normally design a circuit with more than 13 lamp fittings per circuit if protected at 6A. Just done a rough calc. of my downstairs circuit: 11 fittings, total load 80W for 19 lamps, so a third of an amp. Allow for a PF of about 0.5, the 6A MCB should cope, as should any 1mm conductors! Of course, if someone were to fit 50W halgens...! -- Peter. The gods will stay away whilst religions hold sway |
#27
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On Monday, 7 November 2016 18:32:43 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 07/11/2016 01:16, Mike Tomlinson wrote: En el artÃ*culo , tabbypurr escribió: 1mm as you now know. I wonder if one day bell wire will be accepted again for lighting. Today's high efficiency lights don't need anything heavier. You have to plan for worst case, though. Perhaps not the worst, but the guideline is to assume the higher value of either whatever is fitted to the actual fitting, or 100W. So you would not normally design a circuit with more than 13 lamp fittings per circuit if protected at 6A. that made sense in the days of filament lamps. But no longer. NT |
#28
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On 08/11/2016 08:54, PeterC wrote:
Just done a rough calc. of my downstairs circuit: 11 fittings, total load 80W for 19 lamps, so a third of an amp. Allow for a PF of about 0.5, the 6A MCB should cope, as should any 1mm conductors! Of course, if someone were to fit 50W halgens...! You would still be absolutely fine ;-) -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#30
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On Tuesday, 8 November 2016 16:31:41 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 08/11/2016 10:01, tabbypurr wrote: On Monday, 7 November 2016 18:32:43 UTC, John Rumm wrote: On 07/11/2016 01:16, Mike Tomlinson wrote: En el artÃ*culo , tabbypurr escribió: 1mm as you now know. I wonder if one day bell wire will be accepted again for lighting. Today's high efficiency lights don't need anything heavier.. You have to plan for worst case, though. Perhaps not the worst, but the guideline is to assume the higher value of either whatever is fitted to the actual fitting, or 100W. So you would not normally design a circuit with more than 13 lamp fittings per circuit if protected at 6A. that made sense in the days of filament lamps. But no longer. Perhaps, but the guideline is still the same. Some folks still use filament lamps... not exactly news ![]() NT |
#31
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En el artículo , John
Rumm escribió: Some folks still use filament lamps... I've got enough stockpiled to see me out ![]() -- (\_/) (='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10 (")_(") |
#32
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On 08/11/2016 19:41, Huge wrote:
On 2016-11-08, Mike Tomlinson wrote: En el artÃ*culo , John Rumm escribió: Some folks still use filament lamps... I've got enough stockpiled to see me out ![]() I bought a good load when CFLs were the only (heavily promoted) energy saving candidate. Me too. Although I actually bought and fitted some LED GLS "bulbs" for the first time last week. I have managed to find a number of "good enough" LEDs now to replace incandescents in many applications. So I may end up with more than a lifetimes supply ;-) -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#33
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On 8 Nov 2016 19:41:06 GMT, Huge wrote:
On 2016-11-08, Mike Tomlinson wrote: En el artículo , John Rumm escribió: Some folks still use filament lamps... I've got enough stockpiled to see me out ![]() Me too. Although I actually bought and fitted some LED GLS "bulbs" for the first time last week. If you're not too worried about lu/W, Screwfix has some 9W, 807lu GLS, E27 or B22, warm or daylightish, for £7.99 for 5 last time I looked. -- Peter. The gods will stay away whilst religions hold sway |
#34
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On Wed, 09 Nov 2016 09:07:51 +0000, PeterC wrote:
On 8 Nov 2016 19:41:06 GMT, Huge wrote: On 2016-11-08, Mike Tomlinson wrote: En el artÃ*culo , John Rumm escribió: Some folks still use filament lamps... I've got enough stockpiled to see me out ![]() Me too. Although I actually bought and fitted some LED GLS "bulbs" for the first time last week. If you're not too worried about lu/W, Screwfix has some 9W, 807lu GLS, E27 or B22, warm or daylightish, for £7.99 for 5 last time I looked. Don't be put off by the "60W equivalent figure of merit". That's based on the American 120v higher lumen output tungsten GLS lamp which gives noticeably more light than the UK and European 240/220 volt incandescent GLS lamps (around about the same as a 240v 75W 1000 hour tungsten GLS lamp). These shorter, thicker filament lamps can be run a few tens of degrees hotter without compromising life which enhances the lamp's efficacy which is further enhanced by the fact that the Yanks are prepared to trade off a bit more life against even greater efficacy (750 hours versus our 1000 hour lamp ratings) by running the filaments hotter still. -- Johnny B Good |
#35
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In article ,
Johnny B Good wrote: On Wed, 09 Nov 2016 09:07:51 +0000, PeterC wrote: On 8 Nov 2016 19:41:06 GMT, Huge wrote: On 2016-11-08, Mike Tomlinson wrote: En el artículo , John Rumm escribió: Some folks still use filament lamps... I've got enough stockpiled to see me out ![]() Me too. Although I actually bought and fitted some LED GLS "bulbs" for the first time last week. If you're not too worried about lu/W, Screwfix has some 9W, 807lu GLS, E27 or B22, warm or daylightish, for £7.99 for 5 last time I looked. Don't be put off by the "60W equivalent figure of merit". That's based on the American 120v higher lumen output tungsten GLS lamp which gives noticeably more light than the UK and European 240/220 volt incandescent GLS lamps (around about the same as a 240v 75W 1000 hour tungsten GLS lamp). These shorter, thicker filament lamps can be run a few tens of degrees hotter without compromising life which enhances the lamp's efficacy which is further enhanced by the fact that the Yanks are prepared to trade off a bit more life against even greater efficacy (750 hours versus our 1000 hour lamp ratings) by running the filaments hotter still. Are you saying there are actually LEDs around that produce more light than the equivalent figure given on the packaging? -- *What do little birdies see when they get knocked unconscious? * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#36
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On Wed, 16 Nov 2016 10:28:48 +0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Johnny B Good wrote: On Wed, 09 Nov 2016 09:07:51 +0000, PeterC wrote: On 8 Nov 2016 19:41:06 GMT, Huge wrote: On 2016-11-08, Mike Tomlinson wrote: En el artÃ*culo , John Rumm escribió: Some folks still use filament lamps... I've got enough stockpiled to see me out ![]() Me too. Although I actually bought and fitted some LED GLS "bulbs" for the first time last week. If you're not too worried about lu/W, Screwfix has some 9W, 807lu GLS, E27 or B22, warm or daylightish, for £7.99 for 5 last time I looked. Don't be put off by the "60W equivalent figure of merit". That's based on the American 120v higher lumen output tungsten GLS lamp which gives noticeably more light than the UK and European 240/220 volt incandescent GLS lamps (around about the same as a 240v 75W 1000 hour tungsten GLS lamp). These shorter, thicker filament lamps can be run a few tens of degrees hotter without compromising life which enhances the lamp's efficacy which is further enhanced by the fact that the Yanks are prepared to trade off a bit more life against even greater efficacy (750 hours versus our 1000 hour lamp ratings) by running the filaments hotter still. Are you saying there are actually LEDs around that produce more light than the equivalent figure given on the packaging? The only reliable "Figure of Merit" is the Lumens output. Our 240v 1000 hour rated tungsten filament GLS lamps produce nowhere near the 807Lm normally claimed for the "60W equivilent" (an American standard). In wattage terms, a more accurate comparison would be the 75W 240v 1000 hour lamp for customers in the UK (which offers just slightly more lumens than the 810 figure usually quoted alongside the 60W equivalency figure. In short, the benchmark figure of "60W" is based on the higher efficacy American lamp, not the lower efficacy UK version. This has always been the case with all such "60W"/810Lm LED lamps which equates to a 240v 1000 hour lamp wattage somewhere around the 72W mark (if such a lamp were manufactured - the rather uncommon 75W 240v 1000 hour lamps are just a tiny fraction brighter). -- Johnny B Good |
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extending cable length of low voltage lighting | UK diy | |||
Derating lighting cable | UK diy | |||
Lov Voltage lighting cable size | UK diy | |||
Low Voltage lighting cable size | UK diy |