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I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the
correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm?
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On 04/11/2016 14:30, ss wrote:
I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the
correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm?

It's 1.5
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On 04/11/2016 14:36, Bod wrote:
On 04/11/2016 14:30, ss wrote:
I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the
correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm?

It's 1.5


Thanks.
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In article ,
ss wrote:
I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the
correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm?


1mm is the common one for lighting circuits. You could use 1.5mm if you
already have it. 2.5mm could be too big to fit connectors, etc.

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On 4 Nov 2016 14:30, ss wrote:
I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the
correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm?

1.5 or 1.0 mm

--
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On 04/11/16 15:48, Zephirum wrote:
On 4 Nov 2016 14:30, ss wrote:
I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the
correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm?

1.5 or 1.0 mm


Is the most correct answer.

But 1mm2 can have a tendency to break the cores so personally I stick
with 1.5mm2 for lighting.

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In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:
On 04/11/16 15:48, Zephirum wrote:
On 4 Nov 2016 14:30, ss wrote:
I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the
correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm?

1.5 or 1.0 mm


Is the most correct answer.


But 1mm2 can have a tendency to break the cores so personally I stick
with 1.5mm2 for lighting.


Crikey. What on earth are you doing with it? ;-)

--
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On Friday, 4 November 2016 14:30:53 UTC, ss wrote:
I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the
correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm?


1mm as you now know. I wonder if one day bell wire will be accepted again for lighting. Today's high efficiency lights don't need anything heavier. If it's kept out of touch it doesn't need double insulation. Earthing may fade into lesser importance with RCDs & class 2 fittings.


NT
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On 4 Nov 2016 16:42, Tim Watts wrote:
On 04/11/16 15:48, Zephirum wrote:
On 4 Nov 2016 14:30, ss wrote:
I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the
correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm?

1.5 or 1.0 mm


Is the most correct answer.

But 1mm2 can have a tendency to break the cores so personally I stick
with 1.5mm2 for lighting.

Agree, and in fact 1.00 mm seems to be mostly a UK thing, it certainly
not used in Eire last time I looked nor France but that might have changed.

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Unless you want to add a number of extra lights later on of course.
Brian

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Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Bod" wrote in message
...
On 04/11/2016 14:30, ss wrote:
I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the
correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm?

It's 1.5





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In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
Unless you want to add a number of extra lights later on of course.
Brian


Under the worse conditions, 1mm TW&E is rated at 8 amps.

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Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
ss wrote:
I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the
correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm?


1mm is the common one for lighting circuits. You could use 1.5mm if you
already have it. 2.5mm could be too big to fit connectors, etc.


Depending on cable routing you may need 5Amp rather than 10Amp circuit
breakers if you are using 1sqmm cable.

--

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In article ,
Roger Hayter wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:


In article ,
ss wrote:
I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the
correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm?


1mm is the common one for lighting circuits. You could use 1.5mm if you
already have it. 2.5mm could be too big to fit connectors, etc.


Depending on cable routing you may need 5Amp rather than 10Amp circuit
breakers if you are using 1sqmm cable.


Surely 5 amp is the common one for lighting circuits? Unless stupid enough
to have only one in a house?

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
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On 05/11/2016 10:36, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
Unless you want to add a number of extra lights later on of course.
Brian


Under the worse conditions, 1mm TW&E is rated at 8 amps.


You could get it lower with other derating factors if you really tried ;-)

However 1mm^2 is usually fine for most lighting circuits, but you do
have a slightly reduced maximum length compared to those wired in 1.5mm^2


--
Cheers,

John.

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Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Roger Hayter wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:


In article ,
ss wrote:
I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the
correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm?

1mm is the common one for lighting circuits. You could use 1.5mm if you
already have it. 2.5mm could be too big to fit connectors, etc.


Depending on cable routing you may need 5Amp rather than 10Amp circuit
breakers if you are using 1sqmm cable.


Surely 5 amp is the common one for lighting circuits? Unless stupid enough
to have only one in a house?


It always used to be when we had fuse wire! But my current house is
fiited with no fewer than trhree lighting circuits, each with a 10A
breaker. I don't know if I am entirely alone in this, but I certainly
felt a little guilty using a couple of meters of 1sqmm three core and
earth I happened to have for a repair. Though it is probably alright
because of where it is run.



--

Roger Hayter


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In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
On 05/11/2016 10:36, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
Unless you want to add a number of extra lights later on of course.
Brian


Under the worse conditions, 1mm TW&E is rated at 8 amps.


You could get it lower with other derating factors if you really tried ;-)


Very probably. ;-)

However 1mm^2 is usually fine for most lighting circuits, but you do
have a slightly reduced maximum length compared to those wired in 1.5mm^2


I did do all the lighting feeds from the CU here in 1.5mm Ground floor
because it has more lights than elsewhere and a 10 amp MCB, and the others
for the longer runs. But pretty well all the wiring here is either under
floorboards or inside partition walls.

--
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On 05/11/2016 17:51, Roger Hayter wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Roger Hayter wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:


In article ,
ss wrote:
I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the
correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm?

1mm is the common one for lighting circuits. You could use 1.5mm if you
already have it. 2.5mm could be too big to fit connectors, etc.


Depending on cable routing you may need 5Amp rather than 10Amp circuit
breakers if you are using 1sqmm cable.


Surely 5 amp is the common one for lighting circuits? Unless stupid enough
to have only one in a house?


It always used to be when we had fuse wire! But my current house is
fiited with no fewer than trhree lighting circuits, each with a 10A
breaker. I don't know if I am entirely alone in this, but I certainly
felt a little guilty using a couple of meters of 1sqmm three core and
earth I happened to have for a repair. Though it is probably alright
because of where it is run.


Unless you have an installation method that results in a big de-rating
on the cable, 1mm^2 is usually more than adequately protected by a B10
MCB. So I would not worry.


--
Cheers,

John.

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John Rumm wrote:

On 05/11/2016 17:51, Roger Hayter wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Roger Hayter wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
ss wrote:
I will be wiring in 2 x LED ceiling lights,is 1.5 mm twin & earth the
correct size, or should it be 2.5 mm?

1mm is the common one for lighting circuits. You could use 1.5mm if you
already have it. 2.5mm could be too big to fit connectors, etc.

Depending on cable routing you may need 5Amp rather than 10Amp circuit
breakers if you are using 1sqmm cable.

Surely 5 amp is the common one for lighting circuits? Unless stupid enough
to have only one in a house?


It always used to be when we had fuse wire! But my current house is
fiited with no fewer than trhree lighting circuits, each with a 10A
breaker. I don't know if I am entirely alone in this, but I certainly
felt a little guilty using a couple of meters of 1sqmm three core and
earth I happened to have for a repair. Though it is probably alright
because of where it is run.


Unless you have an installation method that results in a big de-rating
on the cable, 1mm^2 is usually more than adequately protected by a B10
MCB. So I would not worry.


Thanks for the reassurance. I was only worried enough to think about
it, not to do a 50 mile round trip to buy some thicker cable!

--

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On 06/11/2016 09:03, Roger Hayter wrote:

Unless you have an installation method that results in a big de-rating
on the cable, 1mm^2 is usually more than adequately protected by a B10
MCB. So I would not worry.


OK. Suppose a load of 1kW, and 3kW. How hot would 1mm cable get in each
case, assuming it wasn't in an airless place?

Bill



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On Monday, 7 November 2016 01:17:22 UTC, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artÃ*culo ,
tabbypurr escribió:


1mm as you now know. I wonder if one day bell wire will be accepted again for
lighting. Today's high efficiency lights don't need anything heavier.


You have to plan for worst case, though.


Yes and no. If the 1A mcb protects against long term small overload then all is well, and that's not challenging nowadays. The greens should love it as it limits use of halogens.

I rewired the lights in my kitchen recently (badly bodged amateur job
done by previous occupant - see pic in link below). It was 6 x 50W GU10
halogens which I've replaced with LED, but have had to rewire on the
assumption that someone might in future wander along and refit halogens.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/krtwgt8shh..._9602.JPG?dl=0


I think those jboxes are a bit dated now


NT
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Bill Wright wrote:

On 06/11/2016 09:03, Roger Hayter wrote:

Unless you have an installation method that results in a big de-rating
on the cable, 1mm^2 is usually more than adequately protected by a B10
MCB. So I would not worry.


OK. Suppose a load of 1kW, and 3kW. How hot would 1mm cable get in each
case, assuming it wasn't in an airless place?

Bill


The attribution is wrong, that was a reply to me. But why assume it
isn't in an airless place, since cables often travel in conduit,
trunking, behind insulation or under plaster? And sometimes with many
similarly loaded cables.


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On 07/11/2016 01:23, Bill Wright wrote:
On 06/11/2016 09:03, Roger Hayter wrote:

Unless you have an installation method that results in a big de-rating
on the cable, 1mm^2 is usually more than adequately protected by a B10
MCB. So I would not worry.


OK. Suppose a load of 1kW, and 3kW. How hot would 1mm cable get in each
case, assuming it wasn't in an airless place?


Those are impossible questions to answer without exquisitely detailed
knowledge of the actual installation - i.e. the length of the circuit,
and what de-rating factors apply all the way along it.

However you can look at it the other way.

If you start with the tabulated ratings for the cable:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Cables#Cable_Sizes

You will note there are a number of different maximum current ratings
specified for 1mm^2 T&E. They change depending on the installation method.

Installation methods that allow for good cooling of the cable, like
being buried directly in masonry, or being clipped to a surface in free
air (both method C), will allow the fastest rate of heat loss from the
cable and hence the highest current.

The current limits are set empirically such that the temperature of the
cables conductors at that load will not exceed the temperature at which
the insulation would either be damaged, or at least start to experience
accelerated ageing. For normal PVC clad cables the limit temperature is
70 deg C.

The temperature of the cable actually achieves will be proportional to
the power being dissipated in it. That will be dictated by I^2 r. The
squared term in there will mean that the temperature rise will be non
linear with the lions share of the rise happening near to maximum
current load.

--
Cheers,

John.

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On Monday, 7 November 2016 18:32:43 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 07/11/2016 01:16, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artÃ*culo ,
tabbypurr escribió:


1mm as you now know. I wonder if one day bell wire will be accepted again for
lighting. Today's high efficiency lights don't need anything heavier.


You have to plan for worst case, though.


Perhaps not the worst, but the guideline is to assume the higher value
of either whatever is fitted to the actual fitting, or 100W.

So you would not normally design a circuit with more than 13 lamp
fittings per circuit if protected at 6A.


that made sense in the days of filament lamps. But no longer.


NT
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On 08/11/2016 08:54, PeterC wrote:

Just done a rough calc. of my downstairs circuit: 11 fittings, total load
80W for 19 lamps, so a third of an amp. Allow for a PF of about 0.5, the 6A
MCB should cope, as should any 1mm conductors!
Of course, if someone were to fit 50W halgens...!


You would still be absolutely fine ;-)


--
Cheers,

John.

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On Tuesday, 8 November 2016 16:31:41 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 08/11/2016 10:01, tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 7 November 2016 18:32:43 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 07/11/2016 01:16, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artÃ*culo ,
tabbypurr escribió:


1mm as you now know. I wonder if one day bell wire will be accepted again for
lighting. Today's high efficiency lights don't need anything heavier..

You have to plan for worst case, though.

Perhaps not the worst, but the guideline is to assume the higher value
of either whatever is fitted to the actual fitting, or 100W.

So you would not normally design a circuit with more than 13 lamp
fittings per circuit if protected at 6A.


that made sense in the days of filament lamps. But no longer.


Perhaps, but the guideline is still the same.

Some folks still use filament lamps...


not exactly news


NT


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En el artículo , John
Rumm escribió:

Some folks still use filament lamps...


I've got enough stockpiled to see me out

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On 08/11/2016 19:41, Huge wrote:
On 2016-11-08, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artÃ*culo , John
Rumm escribió:

Some folks still use filament lamps...


I've got enough stockpiled to see me out


I bought a good load when CFLs were the only (heavily promoted) energy
saving candidate.

Me too. Although I actually bought and fitted some LED GLS "bulbs"
for the first time last week.


I have managed to find a number of "good enough" LEDs now to replace
incandescents in many applications. So I may end up with more than a
lifetimes supply ;-)


--
Cheers,

John.

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On 8 Nov 2016 19:41:06 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2016-11-08, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artículo , John
Rumm escribió:

Some folks still use filament lamps...


I've got enough stockpiled to see me out


Me too. Although I actually bought and fitted some LED GLS "bulbs"
for the first time last week.


If you're not too worried about lu/W, Screwfix has some 9W, 807lu GLS, E27
or B22, warm or daylightish, for £7.99 for 5 last time I looked.
--
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whilst religions hold sway
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On Wed, 09 Nov 2016 09:07:51 +0000, PeterC wrote:

On 8 Nov 2016 19:41:06 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2016-11-08, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artÃ*culo ,
John Rumm escribió:

Some folks still use filament lamps...

I've got enough stockpiled to see me out


Me too. Although I actually bought and fitted some LED GLS "bulbs"
for the first time last week.


If you're not too worried about lu/W, Screwfix has some 9W, 807lu GLS,
E27 or B22, warm or daylightish, for £7.99 for 5 last time I looked.


Don't be put off by the "60W equivalent figure of merit". That's based
on the American 120v higher lumen output tungsten GLS lamp which gives
noticeably more light than the UK and European 240/220 volt incandescent
GLS lamps (around about the same as a 240v 75W 1000 hour tungsten GLS
lamp).

These shorter, thicker filament lamps can be run a few tens of degrees
hotter without compromising life which enhances the lamp's efficacy which
is further enhanced by the fact that the Yanks are prepared to trade off
a bit more life against even greater efficacy (750 hours versus our 1000
hour lamp ratings) by running the filaments hotter still.

--
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In article ,
Johnny B Good wrote:
On Wed, 09 Nov 2016 09:07:51 +0000, PeterC wrote:


On 8 Nov 2016 19:41:06 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2016-11-08, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artículo ,
John Rumm escribió:

Some folks still use filament lamps...

I've got enough stockpiled to see me out

Me too. Although I actually bought and fitted some LED GLS "bulbs"
for the first time last week.


If you're not too worried about lu/W, Screwfix has some 9W, 807lu GLS,
E27 or B22, warm or daylightish, for £7.99 for 5 last time I looked.


Don't be put off by the "60W equivalent figure of merit". That's based
on the American 120v higher lumen output tungsten GLS lamp which gives
noticeably more light than the UK and European 240/220 volt incandescent
GLS lamps (around about the same as a 240v 75W 1000 hour tungsten GLS
lamp).


These shorter, thicker filament lamps can be run a few tens of degrees
hotter without compromising life which enhances the lamp's efficacy which
is further enhanced by the fact that the Yanks are prepared to trade off
a bit more life against even greater efficacy (750 hours versus our 1000
hour lamp ratings) by running the filaments hotter still.


Are you saying there are actually LEDs around that produce more light than
the equivalent figure given on the packaging?

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


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On Wed, 16 Nov 2016 10:28:48 +0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Johnny B Good wrote:
On Wed, 09 Nov 2016 09:07:51 +0000, PeterC wrote:


On 8 Nov 2016 19:41:06 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2016-11-08, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artÃ*culo ,
John Rumm escribió:

Some folks still use filament lamps...

I've got enough stockpiled to see me out

Me too. Although I actually bought and fitted some LED GLS "bulbs"
for the first time last week.

If you're not too worried about lu/W, Screwfix has some 9W, 807lu
GLS,
E27 or B22, warm or daylightish, for £7.99 for 5 last time I looked.


Don't be put off by the "60W equivalent figure of merit". That's based
on the American 120v higher lumen output tungsten GLS lamp which gives
noticeably more light than the UK and European 240/220 volt
incandescent GLS lamps (around about the same as a 240v 75W 1000 hour
tungsten GLS lamp).


These shorter, thicker filament lamps can be run a few tens of degrees
hotter without compromising life which enhances the lamp's efficacy
which is further enhanced by the fact that the Yanks are prepared to
trade off a bit more life against even greater efficacy (750 hours
versus our 1000 hour lamp ratings) by running the filaments hotter
still.


Are you saying there are actually LEDs around that produce more light
than the equivalent figure given on the packaging?


The only reliable "Figure of Merit" is the Lumens output. Our 240v 1000
hour rated tungsten filament GLS lamps produce nowhere near the 807Lm
normally claimed for the "60W equivilent" (an American standard). In
wattage terms, a more accurate comparison would be the 75W 240v 1000 hour
lamp for customers in the UK (which offers just slightly more lumens than
the 810 figure usually quoted alongside the 60W equivalency figure.

In short, the benchmark figure of "60W" is based on the higher efficacy
American lamp, not the lower efficacy UK version. This has always been
the case with all such "60W"/810Lm LED lamps which equates to a 240v 1000
hour lamp wattage somewhere around the 72W mark (if such a lamp were
manufactured - the rather uncommon 75W 240v 1000 hour lamps are just a
tiny fraction brighter).

--
Johnny B Good
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