Hi all,

I have an outdoor kitchen with a plug socket inside one of the cupboards. I need to run a couple of sockets off this and was wondering what cable to use? Plan is to largely run the cable inside the cupboard (in conduit) and then bring it up above the worktop where it is positioned (will probably bury this bit in the wall). The other one needs to go up behind a t&g clad section (again in conduit) and then through a brick wall. Sockets will be IP66 doubles.

After doing a bit of searching, as far as I can make out I can use any cable - is this true?.I assume the IP66 sockets will come with round glands so would be easier to use round flex but besides this is there anything else I need to worry about?

Thanks

Lee.

On 15 Oct 2016 07:55, wrote:
Hi all,

I have an outdoor kitchen with a plug socket inside one of the cupboards. I need to run a couple of sockets off this and was wondering what cable to use? Plan is to largely run the cable inside the cupboard (in conduit) and then bring it up above the worktop where it is positioned (will probably bury this bit in the wall). The other one needs to go up behind a t&g clad section (again in conduit) and then through a brick wall. Sockets will be IP66 doubles.

After doing a bit of searching, as far as I can make out I can use any cable - is this true?.I assume the IP66 sockets will come with round glands so would be easier to use round flex but besides this is there anything else I need to worry about?

Thanks

Lee.

You need 2.5 mm twin and earth PVC to do it right

--
Flying on Per Ardua ad Astra

On Sat, 15 Oct 2016 07:56:50 +0100, Zephirum wrote:

On 15 Oct 2016 07:55, wrote:

I have an outdoor kitchen with a plug socket inside one of the
cupboards. I need to run a couple of sockets off this and was wondering
what cable to use? Plan is to largely run the cable inside the cupboard
(in conduit) and then bring it up above the worktop where it is
positioned (will probably bury this bit in the wall). The other one
needs to go up behind a t&g clad section (again in conduit) and then
through a brick wall. Sockets will be IP66 doubles.

After doing a bit of searching, as far as I can make out I can use any
cable - is this true?.I assume the IP66 sockets will come with round
glands so would be easier to use round flex but besides this is there
anything else I need to worry about?

You need 2.5 mm twin and earth PVC to do it right

Not really.
You can use flex if it is suitably protected, and conduit will do that.
2 sockets, or a twin socket? What will be the load, what is it supplied
from, and what breaker size is it? RCD'd?
What is the current circuit -ring or radial?
You need all this info to advise on cable size/type.

On 15 Oct 2016 10:13, Alan wrote:
On Sat, 15 Oct 2016 07:56:50 +0100, Zephirum wrote:

On 15 Oct 2016 07:55, wrote:

I have an outdoor kitchen with a plug socket inside one of the
cupboards. I need to run a couple of sockets off this and was wondering
what cable to use? Plan is to largely run the cable inside the cupboard
(in conduit) and then bring it up above the worktop where it is
positioned (will probably bury this bit in the wall). The other one
needs to go up behind a t&g clad section (again in conduit) and then
through a brick wall. Sockets will be IP66 doubles.

After doing a bit of searching, as far as I can make out I can use any
cable - is this true?.I assume the IP66 sockets will come with round
glands so would be easier to use round flex but besides this is there
anything else I need to worry about?

You need 2.5 mm twin and earth PVC to do it right

Not really.
You can use flex if it is suitably protected, and conduit will do that.
2 sockets, or a twin socket? What will be the load, what is it supplied
from, and what breaker size is it? RCD'd?
What is the current circuit -ring or radial?
You need all this info to advise on cable size/type.

The IEE wiring regulations stipulate that the cable must be of a certain
size on a ring main or spur. That size is 2.5.mm it must be earthed so
three core or twin and earth but yes suitably protected flex would do.
http://www.electricalsafetyfirst.org...g-regulations/

http://tinyurl.com/zc5cl6h

--
Flying on Per Ardua ad Astra

In article ,
wrote:
Hi all,

I have an outdoor kitchen with a plug socket inside one of the
cupboards. I need to run a couple of sockets off this and was wondering
what cable to use? Plan is to largely run the cable inside the cupboard
(in conduit) and then bring it up above the worktop where it is
positioned (will probably bury this bit in the wall). The other one
needs to go up behind a t&g clad section (again in conduit) and then
through a brick wall. Sockets will be IP66 doubles.

After doing a bit of searching, as far as I can make out I can use any
cable - is this true?.I assume the IP66 sockets will come with round
glands so would be easier to use round flex but besides this is there
anything else I need to worry about?


https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...NYY/index.html

It's a very easy to work round cable which looks neat where it shows. And
cable entries easy to weatherproof with a gland. Sold by the metre.

--
wife.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 15/10/2016 10:45, Zephirum wrote:

The IEE wiring regulations stipulate that the cable must be of a certain
size on a ring main or spur. That size is 2.5.mm it must be earthed so
three core or twin and earth but yes suitably protected flex would do.
http://www.electricalsafetyfirst.org...g-regulations/



ISTM that if it's a 13A fused spur the installation method may allow
1.5mm. I'd not make a special purchase of 1.5mm T&E for a small job but
if the OP has some waiting to be used up or, as another poster
suggested, is going to use NYY clipped direct...

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

In article ,
Robin wrote:
On 15/10/2016 10:45, Zephirum wrote:

The IEE wiring regulations stipulate that the cable must be of a
certain size on a ring main or spur. That size is 2.5.mm it must be
earthed so three core or twin and earth but yes suitably protected
flex would do.
http://www.electricalsafetyfirst.org...g-regulations/



ISTM that if it's a 13A fused spur the installation method may allow
1.5mm. I'd not make a special purchase of 1.5mm T&E for a small job but
if the OP has some waiting to be used up or, as another poster
suggested, is going to use NYY clipped direct...

It would depend on the length of the run, but 1.5mm protected by a 13 amp
fuse will be fine for most. Especially with surface run cable.

--
*IF YOU TRY TO FAIL, AND SUCCEED, WHICH HAVE YOU DONE?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Thanks all for your help. It sounds like there is no extra requirement for it being outside vs an inside spur?

There will be 2 x double sockets and a light connected off an existing ip66 double socket. This socket is on an outside circuit protected by a separate consumer unit.

As it happens I do have some twin and earth kicking around.

Thanks

Lee.

In article ,
wrote:
Thanks all for your help. It sounds like there is no extra requirement
for it being outside vs an inside spur?

There will be 2 x double sockets and a light connected off an existing
ip66 double socket. This socket is on an outside circuit protected by a
separate consumer unit.

As it happens I do have some twin and earth kicking around.

Thanks

Lee.

If I see naked TW&E outside, it screams cheap job to me - even if
perfectly safe. The 'correct' cable doesn't. And is much easier to make a
decent looking job of than conduit.

--
*Frankly, scallop, I don't give a clam

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Curiously, looking at gland prices, ones that are for flat cable seem to be much more expensive than round ones. The prices vary widely but Amazon seem to have round ones 10 for £2 ish but the flat ones seem more like £3 each. Am I missing something? With this price difference it woukd be cheaper to buy the Hi-tuff and round glands vs using my spare T&E

On 16 Oct 2016 07:51, wrote:
Curiously, looking at gland prices, ones that are for flat cable seem to be much more expensive than round ones. The prices vary widely but Amazon seem to have round ones 10 for £2 ish but the flat ones seem more like £3 each. Am I missing something? With this price difference it woukd be cheaper to buy the Hi-tuff and round glands vs using my spare T&E

I would assume the flat ones are either more difficult to produce or
possibly just produced in smaller numbers thus missing out on cost
savings associated with bigger production runs?

--
Flying on Per Ardua ad Astra

I double checked a couple of the ones I saw and they don't explicitly say they include the rubber cable seal - implying you have to buy it separately. If this is true, it could explain some of the difference but I can't find the rubber seals on their own .

On 15/10/2016 14:11, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
wrote:
Thanks all for your help. It sounds like there is no extra requirement
for it being outside vs an inside spur?

There will be 2 x double sockets and a light connected off an existing
ip66 double socket. This socket is on an outside circuit protected by a
separate consumer unit.

As it happens I do have some twin and earth kicking around.

Thanks

Lee.

If I see naked TW&E outside, it screams cheap job to me - even if
perfectly safe. The 'correct' cable doesn't. And is much easier to make a
decent looking job of than conduit.



Local water board run 2.5mm t&e along a barb wire fence ... clipping it
to it with cable ties.

That made me think cheap job.

Hi all,

In my meter box (mounted to an exterior wall so the bloke from the leccy
board can read it anytime) there is an RCD (30mA). The problem I'm having
is that nearly every time there's a lightning strike within a mile of the
house, the thing trips out for some reason. Fortunately we don't get many
thunderstorms in my area, but when we do, it's a right PITA having to go
outside in the pouring rain to re-set the thing time and again.
Any suggestions as to how best to deal with this?

ta.

On Sun, 16 Oct 2016 23:07:03 -0000 (UTC), Chris
wrote:

Hi all,

In my meter box (mounted to an exterior wall so the bloke from the leccy
board can read it anytime) there is an RCD (30mA). The problem I'm having
is that nearly every time there's a lightning strike within a mile of the
house, the thing trips out for some reason. Fortunately we don't get many
thunderstorms in my area, but when we do, it's a right PITA having to go
outside in the pouring rain to re-set the thing time and again.
Any suggestions as to how best to deal with this?

Is it a 'nuisance trip' or is it doing its job and protecting your
supply? I think I would prefer an RCD tripping to a power surge.

On 17/10/16 10:20, Scott wrote:
On Sun, 16 Oct 2016 23:07:03 -0000 (UTC), Chris
wrote:

Hi all,

In my meter box (mounted to an exterior wall so the bloke from the leccy
board can read it anytime) there is an RCD (30mA). The problem I'm having
is that nearly every time there's a lightning strike within a mile of the
house, the thing trips out for some reason. Fortunately we don't get many
thunderstorms in my area, but when we do, it's a right PITA having to go
outside in the pouring rain to re-set the thing time and again.
Any suggestions as to how best to deal with this?

Is it a 'nuisance trip' or is it doing its job and protecting your
supply? I think I would prefer an RCD tripping to a power surge.


It can be a right royal pin. I had this constantly. Any kind of surge
and out when the 30mA.

It might have been an earth neutral short somewhere, or it might have
been loads of RFI filters on the circuitry.

I uprated to 100mA RCD and put RCBOs elsewhere.

--
"What do you think about Gay Marriage?"
"I don't."
"Don't what?"
"Think about Gay Marriage."

"Scott" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 16 Oct 2016 23:07:03 -0000 (UTC), Chris
wrote:

Hi all,

In my meter box (mounted to an exterior wall so the bloke from the leccy
board can read it anytime) there is an RCD (30mA). The problem I'm having
is that nearly every time there's a lightning strike within a mile of the
house, the thing trips out for some reason. Fortunately we don't get many
thunderstorms in my area, but when we do, it's a right PITA having to go
outside in the pouring rain to re-set the thing time and again.
Any suggestions as to how best to deal with this?

Is it a 'nuisance trip'

Corse it is if any lightning strike within a mile of the house trips it.

or is it doing its job and protecting your supply?

Can't be if any lightning strike within a mile of the house trips it.

I think I would prefer an RCD tripping to a power surge.

Sure, but it clearly can't be a power surge every time when it trips that
often.

On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 10:20:58 +0100, Scott
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Oct 2016 23:07:03 -0000 (UTC), Chris
wrote:

Hi all,

In my meter box (mounted to an exterior wall so the bloke from the leccy
board can read it anytime) there is an RCD (30mA). The problem I'm having
is that nearly every time there's a lightning strike within a mile of the
house, the thing trips out for some reason. Fortunately we don't get many
thunderstorms in my area, but when we do, it's a right PITA having to go
outside in the pouring rain to re-set the thing time and again.
Any suggestions as to how best to deal with this?

Is it a 'nuisance trip' or is it doing its job and protecting your
supply? I think I would prefer an RCD tripping to a power surge.

The trouble is that it is a "whole house" RCD and that the RCD is
located outside.

Section 314 of the regs suggests that this installation is possibly
not up to scratch.



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On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 20:31:38 +0100, ARW wrote:

The trouble is that it is a "whole house" RCD and that the RCD is
located outside.

Yeah, I've never come across one of these inside the meter box before.

Section 314 of the regs suggests that this installation is possibly not
up to scratch.

I'll take a butcher's. I'm inclined to just disable the thing TBH unless
someone can see any issues with doing that.

On Monday, 17 October 2016 23:12:31 UTC+1, Chris wrote:
On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 20:31:38 +0100, ARW wrote:

The trouble is that it is a "whole house" RCD and that the RCD is
located outside.

Yeah, I've never come across one of these inside the meter box before.

Section 314 of the regs suggests that this installation is possibly not
up to scratch.

I'll take a butcher's. I'm inclined to just disable the thing TBH unless
someone can see any issues with doing that.

If you're on a TT earth then obviously that would not be a smart move.


NT

On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 22:12:09 -0000 (UTC), Chris
wrote:

On Mon, 17 Oct 2016 20:31:38 +0100, ARW wrote:

The trouble is that it is a "whole house" RCD and that the RCD is
located outside.

Yeah, I've never come across one of these inside the meter box before.

Section 314 of the regs suggests that this installation is possibly not
up to scratch.

I'll take a butcher's. I'm inclined to just disable the thing TBH unless
someone can see any issues with doing that.


Well you would lose the RCD protection that you have. Without full
details you may well be looking at a new CU.


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On Tue, 18 Oct 2016 19:05:31 +0100, ARW wrote:

Well you would lose the RCD protection that you have. Without full
details you may well be looking at a new CU.

Since I've never had this kind of all-encompassing earth leakage
protection before I doubt I'll miss it! Previously I've only ever used
plug-inable RCDs in specific circumstances where they're seriously
advisable, like for powering an electric lawn mower for example.
What I'll probably do is disable the existing RCD and get a new one to
mount indoors on the actual distribution board. Hopefully that'll sort
things.

On Tue, 18 Oct 2016 21:52:04 -0000 (UTC), Chris
wrote:

On Tue, 18 Oct 2016 19:05:31 +0100, ARW wrote:

Well you would lose the RCD protection that you have. Without full
details you may well be looking at a new CU.

Since I've never had this kind of all-encompassing earth leakage
protection before I doubt I'll miss it! Previously I've only ever used
plug-inable RCDs in specific circumstances where they're seriously
advisable, like for powering an electric lawn mower for example.
What I'll probably do is disable the existing RCD and get a new one to
mount indoors on the actual distribution board. Hopefully that'll sort
things.


Actually it might stop the tripping. I have seen this before if there
is longish run from the RCD to the CU.

Your plan may or may not break a couple of 17th edition regs but
nothing that I would worry about.

Adam

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